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  1. 2 points
    Steve, I plead temporary mental impairment due to the effect of Christmas gifts, namely - I must admit, as a Scotsman with a predilection for peaty Islay whiskies, I didn't expect too much of this one but I am absolutely blown away, it is a beautiful whisky! And enjoyed through the auspices of the Norlan Whisky Glass. Again not sure I believe the advertising blurb on this one, and it may be the placebo effect, but it definitely seems to enhance the experience. And yes I am keeping an eye out (from behind the curtains) for an XK, drawn by a team of plumed sloeblack, slow black, crowblack horses, bearing two bible-black clad Welsh Funeral Directors hymning in bonnet and brooch and bombazine black, butterfly choker and bootlace bow, coughing like nannygoats, suckling mintoes, fortywinking hallelujah "marwolaeth i'r anffyddlon". My air rifle and vicious cocker spaniels are at the ready to defend my very life!
  2. 2 points
    It's an age thing Steve. You and I are too young to understand
  3. 1 point
    Can you believe I’ve just had a bulb die. Maybe a couple of weeks before I get the chance to replace it but I’ll upload a video on YouTube showing how the actual bulb comes out of the unit and a link to this guide. You were wise to pay the £100 for the bulb as the £23 EBay ones are plagued with circuit board failures. I’ll be going for the Osram ultra life 10 year guarantee
  4. 1 point
    Congratulations, always a relief to pass the MOT! But no leaper? I've flirted with the idea of an XJ8 a couple of times in the past but decided they were just too big to be a car for every day use, they are a lovely vehicle though.
  5. 1 point
    My S Type at Carisbrooke Castle. My other half got me the reproduction AA badge, which I think looks lovely and sets the car off nicely. The car herself is proving to be absolutely wonderful, we have done quite a bit and all that is left is a sensible solution to the droopy headlining...We all know how good the S type is, so I won't belabour the point, but this is everything I wanted! Love it to pieces!
  6. 1 point
    Dan, Peter, & Carole, Thanks for the cold welcome. Would have said warm but it appears you're all in a frozen state. Dan, It appears you are getting some pretty cold winter storms in Georgia this year. Happy time for the 4-wheelers and not so much for Jags. Peter, Brummagem? First time I have heard that term. Is it slang or have a hidden meaning? Carole, Palm Springs has it's advantages during the winter. It's averaging 80F here now. During the summer it averages 118F. Way too hot to drive in a convertible. During the summer it stays garaged. I take it out about once or twice a month for a quick spin and it's back in the garage. I have had this car going on two years and have only put on 300 miles. The top stays down all time, I do raise and lower it about once a month. Afraid of the dreadful green shower, so use it sparingly. Spent last summer replacing all the plastic parts on the engine, and next summer will do the suspension. Have always been a fan of British cars, with the exception of Lucas. When Thatcher was PM, she should have declared Lucas a national disaster. Might have helped save the British auto Industry.
  7. 1 point
    Sorry Russ, that should have read "stoichiometric ratio index" which I have since researched to mean the ratio of mass air flow to mass fuel flow, the result then divided by 14.7. Apparently, the ideal ratio of air to fuel in a petrol engine is 14.7 (when hot) and thus if we achieve the ideal and then divide by the constant 14.7 it will end up as 1.0 as an index which the MOT calls Lambda. Less than 1.0 means too little air for the amount of fuel (i.e. rich mixture) and greater than 1.0 means the opposite (i.e. lean). I guess I am teaching my granny to suck eggs for many of the contributors on this forum but I want to air my thoughts of what's going on and invite correction so that I get it right. Good news! I have renewed the upstream O2 sensor on Bank 1 (as per code P1646 description) and all is well! The old sensor was easy to remove (luckily)and now I have sensible O2 readings and the fuel systems go to "CL" (closed loop) mode with active fuel trimming. I have cleared the old code and the MIL lamp stays off. Relief! Got MOT re-test later in week so fingers crossed and will let you know the result.
  8. 1 point
    Thanks all who have provided hints and tips thus far,it really is appreciated. The latest news in this saga is as follows: Battery disconnection/reconnection didn't really make much difference but worth a try. Bought a cheap code reader and got codes P1111 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage) and P1646 (O2 Sensor Malfunction Bank 1 Upstream). Note, this is less than a week from taking it to local Jag dealer who charged me nearly £100 simply to say the ECU 'won't communicate'. Grrrr! After clearing codes, the P1646 re-appeared soon after with MIL light back on again. Looked into various forums and found contradictory posts about which bank and whether it really was upstream/downstream etc. Decided to look further in code reader with real time data whilst driving. Found that Fuel Systems 1 and 2 stay in "OL" mode whatever happens. Also found Fuel Trims stay fixed at 0% and both downstream O2 sensors have 'stuck' readings (for current and voltage readings) that occasionally become unstuck and then stuck again. Checked o2 sensor fuse and relay and they are fine. Worked out (I think) what some of the cypher language used by the code reader actually means. (had to do this because the instruction manual doesn't cover this and its taken me most of the weekend). I think what is supposed to happen is that the after start up, the ECU causes the engine to default into "OL" (open loop? control mode i.e. no sensor feedback to make adjustments). After about 15 seconds or so, the sensors have been read and providing there are sensible readings, the ECU goes into "CL" (closed loop? mode i.e. thereafter making adjustments to fuel inputs via the injectors, on a near continuous basis according to feedback from the sensors (MAF, MAP, O2 etc.).The adjustments are called "short/long term fuel trims" and are measured as a percentage from the open loop default value and these adjustments help ensure minimum CO emission and as close to a Lambda (stoichiometric ration index) of 1.0 as reasonable. The problem in my case is that the CO is too high (1.5%) hence failing the emissions test. Now, 1.5% would have been a good result for my old 245DL Volvo from 1980 which was permitted up to 3.5% but that old skool vehicle was designed as open loop. I thinks what is going on is simply that the ECU does not get sensible values from the O2 sensor(s) at start up and as a result it stays in "OL" mode which causes the fuel trims to stay fixed at 0.0% i.e. the ECU simply ignores the sensors and thus no adjustment are made. So, with what I can make out to be sensible readings for Mass Air Flow, Manifold Pressure, Throttle Position and non-sensible readings from O2 sensors I have just ordered a whole new set of O2 sensors (simply can't get enough clear information about which sensor is duff). Will post again with result of replacements. Regards.
  9. 1 point
    Just read this. A great descriptive read of the love for our Jag's!
  10. 1 point
    I spent the whole of the past week in Russia, it was cold, snowed most days (and it's only October, I'm very grateful my parents had the good sense to be British. Perhaps it's a shame they didn't have the even better sense to be from one of the Mediterranean countries, but I'll go with what I have!), dealing with the Russian psyche in business is not straightforward (don't get me wrong, they're nice people, like people everywhere in fact, but there is a definite "everything is a problem" mentality and in some ways they are their own worst enemy, but I digress), the trip back was, frankly, a nightmare, 5 hours layover in Moscow which became 6, overnight in Amsterdam because of that and the inevitable missed London flight, "technical problems" with the port engine yesterday morning resulting in flight cancellation, rebooking and ultimately my not reaching Heathrow until 6:00 pm last evening, some 8 hours later than planned (and yes, I will be claiming compensation) and a total of 37 hours in transit,, but it was all as nought when I climbed into my S Type for the 65 mile trip home along the M25. I had, sad to say, been looking forward to this during my travels, and I was not disappointed, the M25 was a bit stop start but I didn't care, I relaxed in my own space, enjoyed the power on tap from the 8 cylinders when needed, in fact sometimes for the pure joie de vivre of being able to point and squirt, being able to overtake lesser vehicles on the outside round the motorway exit curves, and was perhaps a little sorry to reach home and have to switch off! The grin however was fully back in place. My goodness it's ridiculous how much I love this car! I have never had a car like it. Unlike in another current thread, it doesn't have a name, or even a gender, it just is, but it is magnificent.
  11. 1 point
    HI All modern smart charger are ok to charge the battery with it still connected I use a Jaguar CTEK charger and these can be put on and left on long term mine has a special socket in the boot for plugging the charger in, without the need to expose the battery the only thing I would recommend is most of the jaguar batteries have a vent tube from the battery to somewhere out side the car, so no buildup of gases, hydrogen in the case of most batteries, so when disconnecting the battery charger, make sure you switch it off at the mains first, as not doing this can create sparks on the clips and if there any build up of charging gases, it can't do any damage cheers Joe
  12. 1 point
    Oh dear, I may have accidentally ordered a mesh grill and leaper...I was going to leave her absolutely standard but the previous owner added chrome headlight and rear light trims and after seeing Peter's car...
  13. 1 point
    Have a word with Denis. I believe he has one in stock and will be considerably cheaper than ebay.
  14. 1 point
    Hello Gareth, i had a similar problem with mine.... and a well know motor factor. When changing a the top hose / heater control valve / the Radiator (id only planned on the heater control valve - but....one thing leads to another scenario) i noticed it (the belt) had cracked severely so knowing the headaches one of those causes ( I also have a Land rover Disco) i decided to change it. Asking the motor factor if in stock by phone....yes we have and they've got two different ones both apparently for the car. How can that be i asked? Reply being don't know! I paid for both and set off to deal. I compared them to the one that was on it and we had three different sizes the biggest difference was about 120mm smallest was 85mm... but nothing remotely near mine. Added the fact that mine didn't have a number on it so that made it a bit tricky to ID. I went back to motor factor with all three belts and we tried to sort. They admitted defeat and refunded the money. I then called local Jag dealer. Yes we have one was the reply. It was twice the price but matched my original. The slight complication in all this was that my Disco was also off the road so out came the push bike for a 28 mile round trip.
  15. 1 point
    Hi Gareth, I replaced my belt during a service, and TBH I have had hassles ever since. It was really tight and a bugger to fit, and I've been getting a variable and intermittent squeak since then. I'm starting to suspect this is the tensioner, but I'll need to conduct some tests to be sure. It could be it's slightly the wrong belt, which caused the additional tension and the squeaking, but my spares supplier is generally reliable in these matters. I don't have the part numbers at hand to check. Hope you get it sorted, Russ
  16. 1 point
    Gents, thanks for your advice, my battery was on its way out! It’s a 2004 with original jaguar battery so I suppose she deserves a new one!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Hi When I had my STR, it had a drain, not as bad as yours though mine ended been a jaguar tracker, hidden in the boot, must of come with the car from new but there was no reference to it in the paperwork I had, I just removed it and it cured my problem, it had a backup battery attached to it, that had gone duff due to age, causing excessive drain on the battery cheers Joe
  19. 1 point
    fitted a new varta battery, blue dynamic, f17.....12volts-80amps hr, with a cold cranking amps of 740. so I started with my very long extension lead and placed it on my little cars battery first, then clamped the + and - leads on the jag. making sure that I closed the alarm switch on the bonnet so it did not leave a open circuit. this was done by a piece of wood and a adjustable clamp to close the switch. so with that all done I removed the battery and done a test with my multimeter that 12v power was still running through the jag ? "yes all was good" then fit in place the new varta battery, connect up with the leads back onto the new battery terminals with the extension leads still attached. ( remove extension leads ) put key in jag and just check everything still works and still lights up ok....yes....turn key and the old girl bursts into life. so I do not have to reprogram a single thing ! got my OBD reader and done a final check....and again all was good saying NO CODES. so went for a drive, yes the baby 2,0d jag ran fantastic.
  20. 1 point
    For what it's worth, I use the Mongoose and my laptop for all major things. Requires time plus a battery charger of at least 30 amps to ensure the car's battery does not drain because SDD / IDS is heavy on the juice, powering most of the electronics/ electrics on the car. I was given that tip by a Jaguar indie. I also use a battery charger for my laptop as well. I'm paranoid about bricking a car owing to lack of power at the wrong moment. There isn't a week goes by without Denis and I connecting and running SDD / IDS on somebody or other's car ;) You need to be careful of the SDD / IDS version you run. Too late and it will not function without an internet link to Topix. V1.39 is just about perfect, IF you can get a copy. I can provide a copy if you get yourself a Mongoose. I found that a dedicated Windows XP laptop works far better than using a Windows XP virtual machine on a laptop with later operating system. In fact, my dedicated laptop, a beautiful Sony Vaio, cost me £15 complete with a genuine Windows XP licence. I also use it for all the PDF wiring diagrams and electronic parts catalogue, JTIS etc. I use the iCarSoft LR2 if I'm in a hurry because the SDD / IDS takes an age to load. It is an excellent item and does quite a few of the functions of the SDD / IDS, including real-time data while driving. I was given the Foxwell NT510 to try and to be fair, I couldn't get on with it. Kept on freezing, changing menu pages randomly, and I didn't find it particularly intuitive as the LR2 is (don't shoot the messenger, just my experience). I also use a bog standard OBDII as Russ suggests for quick DTC checks and resetting of MIL. Hope this helps :)
  21. 1 point
    hi you wont find a switched live feed for reverse, the jaguar s-type uses switched negatives, a permanent 12 volts feed goes to the bulb, then the rear control module switches the negative/earth to bring the light on you will need to do the same with the camera, take 12v to the red of the camera supply and then take the black to the reverse light also each rear light cluster has 2 12 volts feeds to each cluster cheers Joe
  22. 1 point
    I was going to vote for the C-Type just to be a contrarian as nobody else had! It did win the LeMans 24hr on it's 1st attempt after all! But reading the early one's had drum brakes and were flawed in other ways, including aerodynamics lifting the rear at over 120mph, I had to go with it's sucessor the D-Type, which was an absolute beast, and spawned the beautiful E-Type. I'm also surprised not to see a MK2 on there, as this was quite iconic and groundbreaking in it's day. But given it's competition success, technological advances and current values, I'm going with the XK140 D-Type. Yes please, I'll have a green one
  23. 1 point
    Good advice above Gareth, but what nobody tells you, I will now make full disclosure, is the biggest pitfall in S Type ownership. Driving the car will give you a permanent, and I mean permanent, grin! If you are a grumpy old b*gger like me, this can absolutely ruin your reputation. Family, friends and colleagues have suggested I have gone totally gaga, and perhaps should be put in a home for the terminally confused. My grumpy outbursts are no longer taken seriously as they are delivered with a contrasting grin. I am seriously considering Botox injections or even plastic surgery to restore my grumpy bad tempered visage. I suppose I could just stop driving the car, but that would deprive me of so much pleasure it is not worth thinking about. Seriously, I think the trick is to ensure you buy a good 'un. Make sure the sill corrosion is not present, that everything works and it drives well, and that the service history/receipts show a well maintained car. It's not a guarantee of reliability, but a good start. I've had mine over 6 months now, and apart from fixing a couple of issues I was aware of when I bought the car, the DCCV permanently putting hot water through to the heater and an MOT advisory on NSF wheel bearing (and had the price reduced accordingly) nothing has gone wrong. I did replace the battery a couple of weeks ago as it was an incorrect size and seemed to require charging more often that I felt was necessary in the cold weather (the new battery has proved I was right), so it has been a very cheap 6 months motoring and I feel it is actually the best car I have ever owned (after 4 Mercs in a row!).
  24. 1 point
    Finding an XK with 9000 on the clock and only done 305 in the previous two years has got to be one of the best and luckiest finds I have ever come across. But tell me, why would you buy a car with Square Wheels?
  25. 1 point
    Hi The 5 amp one is plenty good enough for keeping it charged and tip top the Genuine Jaguar one is only a 3.8 amp and Ive never had any issues with mine, keeps it spot on all year round cheers Joe
  26. 1 point
    Cancel the Halfords order and get it from Amazon. On Prime you'll have it tomorrow or Monday, and it will probably be cheaper (Don't ask how I know this...) Incidentally I feel the https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC42HAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is more than enough for the job. (It's what I have!_
  27. 1 point
    hi if you have a multi meter you need to check what battery leakage you have, the current drain when every thing is off also the car is suppose to go asleep after 40 mins, this can be stopped some times from a faulty device, like the ignition switch, theres a flap that shuts once you pull the key out you could connect a multi meter in series with the battery and see what the current drain is and pull fuses till it drops to a correct level may be worth also checking your battery is charging correct, should be above 14 volts with engine running, alternator might of packed in current drain should be as below cheers joe
  28. 1 point
    Hi Mike Well as you see the bushes can be changed with tools that any garage should have and the skills anyone calling themselves a mechanic should posses. For me it made financial sense as I did everything myself. However, if you're paying someone else to do the work then a pair of arms like Russ got may work out cheaper. Two arms at £200 each plus two hours labour (I could do them in under one hour with a ramp) should be about half what you have been quoted. If I were you I'd see if your garage will buy them direct from Berkshire Jag Spares and quote you for labour. Bear in mind that garages wager on a big mark up on parts so they may not like that idea. Some will fit customer-supplied parts but many won't, having worked in repairs I can understand their reticence.. Either way a little calling around could save you a lot of money. Damper bushes; Almost certainly not economical to change if you're getting someone to do it for you. Circa £15 (£30 genuine) per bush plus the labour and you're probably half way to getting a whole new damper. Plus if your garage won't consider changing the lower rear arm bushes then I'd not bother asking them to change any others. I have no idea how mechanically adept you are but changing dampers and arms is not difficult with a basic tool kit. Six bolts per side and the only one that might cause you trouble is the drop link, for £30-40 it would be worth changing them anyway whilst it's apart. An alignment check afterwards would be nice but certainly not vital as you wouldn't be disturbing any of the adjustment points. I don't know for sure but I get the idea that these bushes fail pretty regularly at 80k miles and upwards. The problem is the dust seals perish and split so letting the grease out, I maintain that if the seals were better they would last far, far longer. Come the spring I'll be climbing under my car to clean and grease the seals to try and keep the elements at bay.
  29. 1 point
    Whoops, clearly I misread the DVLA tables! Ah well, an extra 200 quid a year for an XK - who cares. Cheers Leo, sounds like it will be more than just me using an engine hoist to get in and out.
  30. 1 point
    Steve, I have had my XK for well over 3 years now, and all it has cost me is one indicator bulb and one brake light bulb, about ten quid total. OK, the Road Fund Licence is 500 quid, and you may be right about MPG, but I never check that: I only do about 3000 miles a year, so the cost of petrol is not a major concern. I simply love my XK, and intend to keep it until it is too low for me to get in and out unaided!
  31. 1 point
    Hi Altaf and Welcome to the Club, Since coming back to Jaguar by buying my second S Type earlier this year I have been considering acquiring an XK. A Coupe as I am one of those people that just cant see the point of a Rag Top in the UK - poor weather and spiteful vandals being the real concerns - and there can be an appreciable difference in maintenance costs if the Rag Top is heavily decayed or damaged and worse still the electronics and mechanical gear goes to pot. To answer your questions as well as I can though, the biggies before you even turn the ignition on will be Car Tax - circa £300 per year, and Insurance which will depend on where you live, how old you are and the quality of your driving history - bluntly put you could end up paying more each year for insurance than you paid for the car - the comparison sites will give you some clear indications. Assuming those figures don't put you off, with the kind of short journey mileage you are anticipating you could expect the XK to return something around 15MPG and that could be a trifle optimistic. Then comes the dreaded maintenance. If you're happy and competent to do a lot of the work yourself than you can keep servicing costs down to just the consumables, and with the kind of mileage you're anticipating, you would probably get away with a full service in the first year of ownership and then perhaps every 2-3 years after that. If you're careful and buy a car that has good tyres and well maintained brakes you may also get away without replacing these anytime soon BUT if they need to be replaced you can figure on at least £150 a corner for tyres and £175-250 for Discs and Pads (probably more for the XKR). After that lot you're in the lap of the Gods - we all spend our time hoping that nothing major breaks and that nothing structural rusts through. I hope I have not put you off buying a Jag they do reward those prepared to offer some genuine TLC but just like any good lady you will need to invest in them. Cheers, Steve
  32. 1 point
    My second job (abroad) was working for a Lucas Agent in 1968/69, they certainly didn't have a bad reputation at that time, and their starters, generators, distributors and Voltage Control boxes (all of which were more or less generic with different mounting points, etc, as required by the manufacturer) were ubiquitous on UK made vehicles. They, and the subsequent alternators were cheap, easy and cheap to repair, but I don't think any better or worse than anything else on the market. Certainly the Magneti Marelli electrics fitted to Fiats, Alfas, etc, were of poorer quality. At the time we were Lucas/CAV/Smiths, and again the CAV inline and DPA diesel injection pumps were used on just about everything, including Peugeot strangely. As well as the Smiths car instrumentation which we stocked and serviced, we also imported Smiths Clocks and watches which were sold on to Jewellers. I always remember the markup was 100% both from us to the Jewellers and from the Jeweller to retail, so I could buy a watch at staff price for £20 cost + 10% which sold retail for £80! (A lot of money at the time, certainly more than my month's wages which I think started at around £65). I remember too when the sight of the front or rear lights on a vehicle at night could positively identify it, and Lucas made most of the lenses. I often wonder how much of their demise was due to designing down to a price in the 70's particularly at the behest of BMC/British Leyland, the fuel injection system for the Triumph Stag being a case in point. I know that Vauxhall/Bedford moved over to AC Delco electrics. I remember the name Denso as my Dad's first Toyota, a Corona purchased in 1967 (and over its 200k miles lifetime an incredibly reliable vehicle) was fitted extensively with Denso electrics. Ah, happy days!
  33. 1 point
    difficult to answer but when I bought mine ( actually swapped it for my S type --lucky me) I sent it straight to a Jag specialist (on a transporter ) and told them to make it right. Cost me 2k but they sorted everything. Most expensive was a knock sensor that needed replacing. (had to remove supercharger and loads more) Wheel bearing, suspension and discs. Oh and oil cooler that was leaking. Thankfully haven`t had to spend anything in last 2 years since then but I don`t drive it very much. A lot of parts not as scary as you might think. Checkout a couple of sites eg http://www.xk8-parts.com/ Next job, noticed a few bubbles behind rear arch so will get that done in spring and fitting remote roof control PS Am actively thinking of adding an XK8 to the stable for my wife---of course
  34. 1 point
    If you are looking at an earlier model the most important thing is to check the history and make sure the timing chains have been sorted. Earlier ones had plastic tensioners .If they go in mid flight it can do a lot of damage to engine. Rust,rust and rust--no getting away from it i`m afraid. Check sills ,subframes ,floorpans and behind rear wheel arches. Good news is that it can all be sorted. Owning one of these is great but it will cost you. If you are scared of that prospect then my advice is look elsewhere. Harsh but true. BUT its a fantastic car. I splashed on an XKR a couple of years ago and even though it costs a few bob now and again the novelty value has still not worn off. Good luck
  35. 1 point
    Just bye the bye, Denso came out of Magneti Marelli, which came out of Lucas. Whilst on one of our frequent visits to the Jaguar Collection at Gaydon a while ago, the tech team were attempting to start a racing XJS exhibit and having little joy. One of the techs was heard to say "suspect anything with Lucas stamped on it!" May be it therefore follows "suspect anything with Denso stamped on it". Automotive parts named similarly to a washing powder might not be off to a good start (no pun intended.....then again). We, too, like to keep original, although it can be a little off putting when, due to lack of update, the satnav indicates that we are crossing a field near to the (old) main road. Ah well, bear right......grrrr, hello Yogi. Too much brandy sauce......hic
  36. 1 point
    Richard III was really from Leicestershire, but thought the House of York could beat the House of Lancaster -- mistakenly. We live about 15 miles from Bosworth Field and know the scenario quite well. Richard III and his army stood at the top pf the hill and waited for the Lancastrians to start walking up the hill to fight them. The Lancastrians sent a few soldiers to the bottom of the hill and when the Yorkists charge they fled and the Yorkists though they had won when they got to the bottom of the hill. The Lancastrians then charged, and Richard III's horse got scarred, threw him and he had to fight the cavalry on foot. He then blamed the horse, "My kingdom for [because of] a horse." The descendants of that horse are regular runners at Haydock Park, but true to form have never won a race.
  37. 1 point
    I'm not gonna ask...............can't help myself; is there some Scottish ancestry there?
  38. 1 point
    Hi Gary....welcome to the Club Great to see two fantastic Jags being so coveted....they both look great! Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor
  39. 1 point
    Just a little update on rear track rods. I put the old inner end back on one side as it was better than the new one. Unfortunately I had had to cut the one on the other side off. It's doubly annoying because I changed the whole rods due to wear in the outer ends only to then have the inners fail. I looked at replacing the inner end ball-joints with a universal replacement one that I could replace as and when without changing the arm as well. But they're not as easy to find any more, especially straight ones. So I went with my fall back plan of ordering an arm at my local factors for £52 expecting a two day wait for it to arrive. When I got there they had one on the shelf for under £40, bonus! It's a Moog p/n: JA-DS-8881 replacing Jaguar p/n: XR813478. It comes with a three year warranty. Check out the poor spot welding on the silver eBay jobby compared with the black Moog one. It's almost non-existent on the ball-joint end. I fitted that one yesterday and the horrible fidgeting and self steering is gone. I'll update again in 3000 miles...
  40. 1 point
    Hello everyone. I just thought i would share this experience with you all because i hope it will help some of you out and prevent this series of events coming your way. I recently was having issues with my 2.2D X Type where i would have flat spots under acceleration, kangerooing and simply lack of power. When this would happen my car would go into limp mode and i would have the flashing glow plug light come on. My first point of call was to look for a turbo leak. I had the usual split intercooler pipe coming from the EGR valve. After fitting a new one the fault still existed. So i now replaced the EGR valve in case this was the problem... nope. After some brainstorming i moved on to the MAF sensor, nice and easy job and only £25. Still no change. Clutching at hairs i now aimed for my MAP sensor as the symptoms fit with hard acceleration, turbo pressure gets high etc... After a real struggle i managed to fit a new MAP sensor and believe me that was a struggle there is next to no space down towards the bottom of the intercooler hose. Much to my disappointment this did not solve the problem either... only to find that after all of this work it was my Turbo Actuator that had failed on me! This is apparently a very common fault with the diesel x type, s type and mondeos! So to all if your car has the symptoms i described in the beginning of this post (loss of power, flat spots, hesitation, or kangerooing around 2 - 3000rpm) then i would try the turbo actuator first before putting yourself out for the rest of the work. The actuator is not a big job at all. Hope this is of some use to people!
  41. 1 point