richdraper

as title really had it going on for a while, though it was interior squeak, resided to the fact that its suspension. video link here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w1sQzsMVQEqH_bCJmkr0aQuvAdF_vBZIBQ it does this chirping on <40mph roads with even the tiniest bump, larger undualtions dont cause it to squeak. i cant replicate it by bouncing the suspension heart is telling me it something connected to the wheel. I'm thinking upper/lower control arm, outer bush... as it sounds too 'squeaky' to be a hub carrier bush. has anyone had similar, if so what fixed it for you?

Evening Jerry, 1 faulty turbo is bad luck, 2 faulty turbos is a million to one (maybe why the supplier wont honour the 2nd return). imho I'm making a couple of assumptions here, because i dont own a diesel Jag, but i do have a diesel on the drive. In my experience a vast majority of Car & Van turbo control systems are managed with a vacuum system, some are electric (BMW) some are compressed air (generally heavy commercial/PSV). Have your garage ran full test of the vacuum system? would expect to see around 800-1000mbar of vacuum (600-750 mm/Hg) at engine idle from the pump and throughout the 'feed side' of the components (brake booster, EGR & boost control solenoid). My initial thought is first and foremost the vacuum pipes feeding the various components, if theyre split/mislocated/in the wrong position on your control valves you loose vacuum/vacuum control. Secondly i'd suspect the boost control solenoid (i know Alfa/Fiat 1.9JTDm and Vauxhalls/Saab 1.9 CDTI, all the same engine by the way, all had issues with boost control solenoids) this is the bit that actually controls actuation of the turbo. ive had them piped up wrong and had full boost until a certain rev range then the ECU would cut fuel and go into limp home mode. engine off and on again and it would boost again until a given set of circumstances, in my case full boost pulls over 5 seconds in gears higher than 3rd (i dont think 1st & 2nd were tall enough to allow full boost for long enough to trigger the fuel cut) Third id be testing the MAP Sensor (should read between 900-1100mbar, engine not running, upto about 2600-3000mbar on full boost). last thing i would suspect is turbo itself. its not unheard of but quite rare to have one go down. Lets try and get a Jag Grin on yer face

Afternoon, Does anyone know who supplied OEM, to Jag, for the suspension components? I know, from experience, that my Alfa Romeo 159 uses TRW and Lemforder for most if not all of its suspension, LuK for its clutch/flywheel assemblies and Brembo for its brake hardware, BEHR for its cooling and a boatload of Bosch for its electricals. I'm looking to throw some ARB Drop Links at the Jag, obviously im not prepared to pay Jag prices, if i can find 'OE supplier' parts for a quarter of the price.

😳 'improved fuel efficiency' lols... id hate to see what it struggled to achieve without VVT i stand corrected, not for the first time and most certainly not for the last. i still think its underpowered 😉

i've got one parked on the drive and i think its pretty safe to say a big nope... power is ridiculously linear, and it's a properly lazy map on it too (only creating <200bhp) its my only gripe with it if i'm honest, could have been made to feel a little pokier in the higher rev range, maybe chucked on a charger or something like its big brothers.

Hi Les, Roger raises a valid point in this linked post about chasing random faults here there and everywhere. Intermittent issues with flashing glowplug lights and such. Auto boxes *may* look at crank speed to judge shift behaviour. Which *could* be why youre experiencing weird issues. Might be worth checking before spending 100s at specialists

PM Sent

Nevermind... fixed it... clutch bleed solved it. must have sucked some air in last time... If mods would be so kind... Maybe press delete for this thread 🙂

Alright you lot, Some days i find the Jaaaag a little difficult to drive smoothly, now I'm pretty sure its because of the clutch. I have quite a 'wide' bite zone on the pedal and I've never come across this kind of symptom before so wondering if anyone can help. With the clutch down the slightest lift of the pedal and it will start to bite, and at the opposite end of the scale if i breath on the pedal it seems to start to disengage quite readily. We're talking an inch or 2 at either end of the pedal travel. My amazing photoshop skills have enabled me to portray this in a visual representation for your viewing pleasure. As usual any help/ideas/input warmly recieved. Motor has done a little under 95k miles so I'm fully expecting to be putting a clutch in it whilst I have her, but this (to me) isn't worn clutch symptoms, I'd expect high bite point to be a worn clutch. I'd also not expect these symptoms after recently bleeding the clutch (symptoms were the same before and after clutch bleed by the way, I hoped a bleed would remedy it).

assuming everything else was straight and secure. Cam Washer could have moved/ been set incorrectly previous to your ownership. (as pictured below) or something was amiss with hub Carrier (also pictured below) not unheard of i can recall at least one issue with the hub carrier on this forum in the past few months, cant be an isolated case...

pretty sure mine is on standard 5-spoke 18s... https://photos.app.goo.gl/jPN7NaEd3znPvYsa7

I hope you get it sorted bud... It's always a shame when you throw some much money at something for it not to be fixed. Sometimes the basics are overlooked and you get transfixed on an issue that isn't there. If you've done so much work to the DPF and Differential Pressure Sensor then you can pretty much rule them out. In all honesty (and I know it doesn't help you now) personally I would have suspected it wasnt the DPF before doing all the intake and injector testing. Either way I don't know your mechanics reasons for swapping the DPF and sensor so without actually knowing what has been diagnosed it's very easy for me to sit here and criticise. It's not unheard of for DPFs to require replacement but their price makes me kinda wanna rule out any other stuff before hand. Good luck!

There's all sorts of other reasons a DPF wont regen, do you know if any have been explored? namely charge air system and Injectors... From memory turbo actuation has to be behaving itself, you have to have sufficient vacuum created from the pump, which has to pass through the boost control solenoid sufficiently to actuate both the VGT and wastegate vacuum pressure cells any leakage in the pipework and/or cells will shut the ECU down from finding a 'required condition' status it needs to attempt regen... resulting in premature filling of DPF... Confirm boost control solenoid is piped up correctly too thats a more than common oversight, ive done it myself. Mechanical boost leakage (for example: hole in the intercooler, non-air tight inlet manifold, leaky boost pipe) can lead to the ECU shutting down regen capability too because the engine THINKS its getting good boost but the DPF is reporting silly pressure values due to a leak. post boost sensor. Boost sensor/MAP Sensor could also be reporting different values although within expected tollerance it could be out (hence it may not throw its own fault because its within tollerance). those values compared to the DPF Values could be shutting the ECU down. MAF sensor could be at fault for the same reason Lastly Injection system has to be upto par and no excessive back leakage from injectors. if you do have a leaky injector it may not show as excess soot out of the tailpipe. Theres been a few injector issues i know about recently both on here and people i know who have the diesels. I'd suggest looking at live injector correction values at idle, it would usually give a good indication if the ECU is dialing back some or overfueling others to compensate for a dicky injector, also take a look at Manifold pressures aswell as 'Desired' against 'Actual' boost figures would instantly show a dodgey/incorrectly installed boost control solenoid. MAP sensors read between 900-1100mbar with engine off this is normal, and you shouldn't be seeing much over 2600-3000mbar i wouldnt have thought (3000mbar is 2bar of boost and thats a lot in a standard trim car engine). hope this helps to separate the forest from the trees a little bit.

Hi Mike, Welcome to the forum, 1) Initially sounds like air in the system. When cold and with the engine running, check the level in the reservoir. if its low top it up if its not then its on to the next thing. As the steering fluid heats up/thins out it tends to 'hide' issues that are there from cold. With heat the oil expands so the level in the reservoir rises possibly masking a low oil level when cold. You should really always check steering fluid and Auto box Fluid when its cold. Any 'Dextron 3' ATF is fine. The system takes a total of 1.2lts. 2) Follow the pipes from the reservoir as best you can and with someone helping you get them to turn the wheel. You would see any vibration in the system accentuated in the rubber portion of the pipes, ensure they're all clipped properly etc. 3) One more thing to check would be top bearings (although I'd expect you to get the issue all the time...) again with someone helping you, engine running, get your helper to turn the steering left and right to recreate the issue, look at or feel the front springs, you'll soon know if there is any notchy-ness in the top bearings. Good Luck!

im gonna keep this one short and sweet so ive got a squeak... but only when the interior is cold, you know first thing in the morning or when the weather is chilly seems to be anything below about 12*C. leave it basking in the sun and its fine, warm weather you'll never hear it. i have no clue what it is... ive tried sitting on the seat and pressing all the trim i can get my hands on but its quite difficult to diagnose given when it happens. has anyone had similar? https://photos.app.goo.gl/9TxVvcnPsYDGQVkk8 suggestions always welcome 🙂