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Cheers - will see what I can find! TMW

No - ooh - what I am looking for? Regards TMW

Hi, Thanks for the response. I should have added, the Driveaway door locking doesn't work on the passenger door either - if it's open, it just stays unlocked when the others all lock so I think that would eliminate the remote as the cause. Regards TMW

Hi all, Does anyone know of any way to remove the front bumper chrome inserts without taking the bumper off? The ones on mine have been painted to match the bumpers and I want to either get the paint off or replace them. I know they clip on from behind. Looks like I might be able to get the passenger side one off through the front wheel arch liner - I have long arms - but the drivers side one I can only get to the clip nearest the wheel owing to some cylinder in the way as you move round. Any pointers appreciated as removing the bumper, although supposedly straightforward, is something I would like to try and avoid. Thanks in advance. Regards TMW

Definitely not the remote in my case - that's all good and working fine. The remote just sends a signal to trigger the locking to go (I think) and that works fine, as do the lights and boot release buttons on the remote. TMW

Hi, Yes, voice is known and I can control the radio / cd / screen / climate with voice and no issues at all. It's just the phone controls from voice that are not recognised. TMW

Hi all, It's been a while since I posted here but I've got an issue I hope someone can help with. In the past few weeks I have purchased a 2005 X-Type Sovereign to replace my 2001 SE that had an unfortunate MoT disaster that was no longer cost-effective to repair 😞 The Sovereign is great, but it was lacking one feature - Bluetooth. I have purchased the later BT module and the antenna, as well as a Fibre cable and linked that in to the Fibre loop. Found the wiring loom for the Bluetooth module tucked away and basically fitted everything and, amazingly, it worked first time! All is good and I can use the screen to dial, phone contacts sync and people can hear me fine. Result! Well, not quite. The Sovereign has Voice control and I can't get it to recognise any Voice commands for phone at all apart from the one to display the Phone screen. All other Voice commands are fine (Radio / Climate / CD Changer). I have been into the secret menu from the screen using the Phone and Menu buttons and code 1971 and checked that the Phone module is listed as installed and this is indeed there and present. What do I need to do to get the Voice control module to recognise the Voice dialling commands as well as the others that are already working fine? Thanks in advance for any pointers. Regards TMW

Hi all, Sorry to thread hijack but I also have a similar issue. I've recently had to change X-Type owing to my old one I had had for over 10 years having a sudden attack of rot between MOT's that was not cost-effective to repair. I've now got a 2005 Sovereign, but there's an issue with the central locking... If you use the remote, the passenger front door does not lock or unlock at all. Equally, if you use the internal lock switch on the drivers door, the other 3 doors all respond as required but the front passenger one is non-responsive and has to be moved manually from inside. HOWEVER, if you use the front passenger lock when the car is locked, it opens all 4x doors centrally. And, equally, if you use the front passenger lock to lock the car, they all lock as required. It's as if it is detached from the main locking system but has one of it's own! Is this an easy, obvious fix or is something slightly more sinister going on somewhere? Just really annoying as I have to lock that door internally before I can get out and lock the rest of him and equally if a passenger is getting in I have to lean over and unlock it for them. I know we always used to do this years ago, but.... 🙂 Thanks in advance. TMW

He died yesterday :( Recovery guy came out - battery effed. Was only holding 2% charge from their testing gizmo. Recovered to home, battery proof of purchase found, returned to place of purchase and swapped, but I paid the difference to upgrade to a higher-spec one. All good last night, let's see what the weekend brings... TMW

So, have done a few journeys today with the TEST mode activated so I can monitor the battery voltage.Typically, no battery light today and I have now done 4x trips...But, pattern seen thus far is, start up and there's around 14.2v (fluctuating slightly) and after about 3 minutes, this drops to around 12.4v (again fluctuating) where it stays for the remainder of the journey - from other postings I have read I believe this is normal but could be wrong?Will see what happens on the return from work and other trips over the weekend...TMW

Hi, Sorry, should have said, the voltage reading I got was with a Multi-meter. TMW

Hi all, Firstly, apologies that this is going to be a long post. A few months ago I had problems with alternator and starter motor issues. All was resolved when a new positive power cable from the battery to starter motor and replacement alternator was fitted at the end of July.Well, about 6 weeks later and I am experiencing the dreaded battery light again. Symptoms are that occasionally after about 1 minute of being started, the battery light comes on. Power off, lock, unlock, start up again and all is fine until the next time it occurs. But it's annoying and makes me wonder if something more sinister is lurking there. I have noticed that if I turn the key to the position where all the dash goes live and leave it there for about 15 seconds then start the chances of the battery light coming on decrease greatly, but this is not guaranteed.So far I have changed:-- Alternator- Starter Motor- Positive Battery CableThe battery was not swapped but has been tested three times as fine. However, tonight it was worse than usual... 5:35pm - got into car to come home from work. Started up and let it run for a minute, no battery light came on, headed home.6:05pm - arrived home.6:15pm - had to go out. Started car with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Whilst the light was on I read the voltage from the battery - 14.31v. Seems normal to me. So, switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery didn't come on, so off I went. Turned AC on. About 10 seconds later, battery light came on. Pulled over at a safe point, switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with AC on, and carried on the journey. No more battery light - yay!6:30pm - finally arrived local Sainsburys. Car turned off.6:40pm - left Sainsburys. Started with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with no AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Lost interest, started it up and drove off. About a minute into the journey, battery light came on. Switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with AC on, left it for a minute, battery light came on. Pulled over at a safe point, switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with AC on, and carried on the journey. About a minute later, battery light came on. Pulled over at a safe point, switched off, locked, waited 10 seconds, unlocked, started with AC on, and carried on the journey. About a minute later, battery light came on. At this point I didn't care as I was 20 seconds from home so just pulled onto the driveway and turned him off for the night.I am fairly confident that tomorrow morning when it's time to go to work I will have no problems.I have also noticed that once he gets going with the light not coming on, that's it - it stays of until the next shut off and maybe the problem comes back when I try to start again. Did 150 miles on Monday night after the light had come on 3 times trying to start after a quick stop off somewhere with no more repeats.Someone has suggested there may be a sensor or similar on the alternator that could be causing the issue - can anyone identify where this is so I can check it out?One more final bit of information that has hit me. When the original alternator failed over a year ago, the recovery guy suggested that the battery was also fried and would need replacing as well, however at the depot (had to change trailers) on the way back his boss had a look and said that he thought it would be Ok. This is the same battery that has now been on 2x failed alternators in the last 18 months or so. Is it possible that this simply is a battery problem? It has been checked but you never know, especially as it is getting worse.It's just getting annoying now - I don't know if I trust the information that the batterylight is giving me based on all this. Also means I don't have a lot of trust in the car at the moment which isn't good - just wonder if it is going to let me down at some point...Thanks in advance all and sorry for the long post. Regards, Tim Watts

Quick update. I saw in another thread on AC issues it was suggested to swap the Horn and AC relays over. Amazingly, I now have working AC and not a working Horn. Off to Halfrauds shortly to see if they have a replacement. Potentially a good result and annoying that the wechillanycar.com guy didn't think to do this and it's also annoying that I could have potentially had working AC 6 years ago! TMW

Hi all, Having recently had some alternator / starter woes, when I got the car back the AC had mysteriously started working. And then it stopped. And now it's working again, but then it's not...The full story - and apologies if I go on a bit here - someone once said my initials of TMW stood for Too Many Words! Anyway, the Alternator belt frayed and caused some damage to the car - new alternatorand power steering pump needed, as well as a new alternator belt. These were fitted and when I got him back the AC, which had not worked for over 6 years (although was checked by wechillanycar.com in December and suggested a new compressor was needed - which was fitted with no change!) had mysteriously started working - I was well chuffed!First journey I did was down to London - about an hour from here - and around 30 minutes in, the cold air stopped and it was just fans blowing whatever air was there. This remained so I thought it was just a fluke that it had started working again for that initial period and was resigned to a non-AC'd car once more (as I was already used to).Next morning, he wouldn't start and I had had a battery light on the dash come on the night before - just click click click when turning to position 3. The garage came over, got him started and took him away. New starter motor fitted and back he came. AC was working again! However, after about half an hour of using the car (interestingly, not one journey, but half an hour or so combined) the cold air stopped once again and the blower at whatever the abient was.Next morning wouldn't start again - same thing click click click. They came back again, fiddled with the starter motor cable and he fired up. He went away, I did some reading, they did some reading and we have replaced the positive battery cable to the alternatorand starter motor. Got him back Tuesday and all good (starts much better now and sounds better too!) and the AC was working again!But, once more, after around 30 minutes use (not all the same journey) the cold air has ceased and it's just ambient blower again. But on the positive side he has now started on the key every time since I got him back so I am convinced that the battery lead change has fixed the starting / battery light issues once and for all. Interestingly on this 30 minute time, it was about 15 minutes driving the day I got him back with AC working fine, but it then stopped working about 15 minutes or so into the journey to work the next morning - started off nice and cold!Now, I have a theory that if I disconnect the battery for a short while (as they would have had to each time they were changing something out and definitely did as I needed to re-enter the radio code each time I got him back) and reconnect it the AC will probably come back to life - for about 30 minutes or so... But I don't want to do that as, because all is working and starting fine again, I don't want to do any potential damage to anything.So, summary.Car goes away, battery disconnected, car comes back, AC works for 30 or so minutes then is just ambient.Car goes away again, battery disconnected, car comes back, AC works for 30 or so minutes then is just ambient.Car goes away a 3rd time, battery disconnected, car comes back, AC works for 30 or so minutes then is just ambient.Clearly the AC system in the car does work, to an extent, but I would really like it working all the time.Has anyone seen anything like this before or got any ideas of what I could do to possibly sort this once and for all? Guess there must be a fuse thinking about it that I can pull to cut power to something initially rather than disconnecting so doing that for a while and then seeing if the AC system comes back on line could be a starter for 10 - but which fuse(s)?Thanks in advance for a hopeful positive pointer.RegardsTMW

Hi all,I have a nasty feeling that my X is shortly going to expire beyond an economical point - has done 330,000 miles though so I can't really complain...I am going to replace with a like for like, but with much less miles obviously!The question I have, at the moment I have the integrated Jaguar Cell phone (under the armrest) which is brilliant and would be a shame to lose it.Can it be removed and transferred to another X Type or is it just an ag to try? What's involved? I assume that the cradle in the lid of the armrest where the handset is. There's a wire going out of that down into the back of the armrest support so there must be something under that - I see 2x torx screws holding that lid on. Is there a control module somewhere (I have seen possibly in the boot and possibly in the centre console somewhere but nothing definitive)?What other bits to I need to take across? How much of the wiring will be in the other car that doesn't already have the car phone in it?Thanks in advance for any pointers.RegardsTim Watts