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Katee34

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  • First Name
    Keith
  • Jaguar Model
    XF
  • Year of Jaguar
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. I believe the answer is probably both belt and chain. The 2008 workshop manual (2.7L D makes reference to the timing belt which drives the camshafts, but also to internal timing chains which connect pairs of camshafts. In addition to this there are other belts for other purposes. Can anyone confirm that the post 2010 V6 3LD has the same arrangements please?
  2. Hi Minesh I have not been on the forum for a while so have only just seen your post. I hope that you have by now found an answer. If not, please be aware that the problem I experienced proved to be connections inside the tank and under the fuel! If you are not too sure about dealing with the external connectors ,it might be best to find a good independent jag specialist to try looking inside the tank. My guy is very experienced and even he said it was not a job for the faint hearted. He had to work virtually blind with his arm deep in diesel fuel, before he could determine the problem. Although I have done quite a few types of repair I am pleased I left this one to him!
  3. I have got used to the slight acceleration delay on a turbo diesel /automatic compared with manual petrol, however I have recently and on random occassions experienced a level of hesitation on acceleration that is worrying.Normally the response to increased throttle on a 3L D XF is impressive at any speed, however on occasion I now have the situation whereby pressing the accelerator produces --- nothing. The car seems to hesitate and even lose engine revs. The immediate reaction of releasing the throttle and reapplying the foot usually results in a bit of hesitation and then acceleration ( no warnings). However - at worst- repeated application of the throttle results in only slight blips in revs each time followed by a drop, with the result that the car progressively slows. This has happened on only two occasions so far both at relatively low speed in a built up area and with three amber warnings appearing – Park brake fault, DSC not available, Gearbox fault, accompanied by a light on the DSC button and amber park brake symbol. Strangely once the warnings have appeared the car drives normally. On switch off and restart only the Gearbox fault warning recurs. After 2nd switch off and restart all warnings have cleared. In between such worst case events the car has done long and short mileage trips behaving normally.Any ideas for the cause?Before anyone mentions the battery it should be noted that both before and after such events the battery spins/starts the engine without any struggle.
  4. I have just returned from France having down some 2000miles on roads of all types including lots of motorway – without problems (and hence with a well charged battery). However travelling a few miles into London today , I experienced a loss of acceleration response from the throttle. When going to accelerate the car would not respond unless the throttle was released and reapplied. Each time the revs would rise to circa 1500 and die away again. In the end I had to pull over to the side. I put the car in neutral and tried to rev – same response. Then the problem seemed to clear and I continued my journey. However by this time I had the following warnings Gear box fault, DSC fault ( DSC light also on), park brake fault. DSC would not switch back on by touching the button- but car drove normally. By the time I had arrived some 15mins later the parking brake warning had disappeared. Switching on again to return, only the gear box fault warning reappeared. Car drove normally. DSC could be turned on and off without problem. On arriving ,stopping and restarting engine all warnings had disappeared! Taking the car out again for a test run there were the odd occasions when there was excessive delay to throttle movement – well in excess of turbo lag, but no warnings . The original problems and warnings could not be retriggered but it removes confidence not being able to accelerate reliably when necessary. I note that this problem has some similarities with other reports of the same combination of warnings but not the loss of acceleration control. Any ideas?
  5. For any who may have been following this one I am pleased to say that the mechanic's perseverance and interest in solving the problem seem to have paid off. Having found a dry joint on the original sender unit and corrected it the gauge appears to have worked as it should - having now done several thousand miles and filled up a few times. Lets hope that remains the case.Thanks to all who forwarded useful information and ideas.
  6. Tim - I am wondering how you got on, and presume you will have seen another thread also dealing with this topic entitled Diesel Owners started in Jan and ongoing. I am not absolutely sure but I think that it is also important to ensure you use the correct oil. Interestingly Jag specified a C1 oil for the XF 3.0L D. This was claimed in 2010 to have been developed between JLR and Castrol . C1 is very low ash oil and presumably helps to reduce emission products . I have friends who have XFs and who have not been too fussy regarding oil. They have also suffered from a lot of DPF warnings. C1 oil is still, even in 2017, not all that easy to find and my Jag dealer was until recently still selling C2 oil for topping up because C1 oil was not available in small quantity! Having queried the issue with Jag HO they were adamant that the only oil they would accept as not invalidating warranty was C1. I had to show the letter from Jag to the dealer before he would believe me! Anyone else with experience that would confirm or disprove the above?
  7. Thanks Joe for the references. For any who might be interested ............ After a few fill ups it was clear that although the gauge now read something rather than nothing ,it was still behaving oddly- wandering up and down within a small range even though fuel ranged from tank full to mostly used. Mechanic took it back to have another go or replace sender. He found a dry joint on the sender unit and fixed that. Since then it appears to be OK though I will not be fully confident until I have used several more tankfuls.
  8. I would like to thank Joe for raising in the first place the warning about DPFs and their dangers in particular circumstances. It was certainly a wake up call even to those who might have been partially aware. I have to say I thought the worst was the possibility of having to shell out a four figure sum for a replacement DPF if it became over full and regeneration not fully effective. That was bad enough but I feel really sorry for Oleh who has experienced the extreme end result. Even though I was aware of the principle of diesel runaway, I will now be checking my oil levels more frequently. Can anyone help with the following: I believe that for regeneration to be effective the DPF has to reach 600deg C and that in ordinary driving typical temperatures are nearer 400 deg C. If the car is run for long motorway journeys does the DPF reach a high enough temperature to clear itself without added fuel or does it always continue to collect soot until forced regeneration is triggered using extra fuel? I ask because having recently done several hundred miles of motorway driving at a stretch, I found my overall fuel consumption had risen to a figure not previously seen - 50mpg. Granted there were quite a lot of speed restrictions which probably lowered the overall average speed, - but - even town driving immediately after achieved better than normal figures. So what is the best way to obtain the most effective regeneration? What does Jag say about additives that are supposed to reduce the temperature at which the soot is burnt off? I would normally be very wary about adding any additives but in these circumstances it is noteworthy that there is a growing market in chemicals claiming to improve the DPF problems.
  9. I think it needs to be remembered that the danger of diesel engine runaway associated with too high an oil level - for whatever reason - is not peculiar to Jags but all diesels with or without a PDF. The added complexity of a PDF adds another risk but this must be seen in the light of the increasing complexity of cars in almost every direction. Hence the need to obey the recommendations and do the checks recommended. I was always told to check my oil regularly as your life depended on it along with your tyres etc. We would not expect an airline pilot to cut short his checks prior to taking off.
  10. Thanks for this post and follow up. I once saw a taxi diesel engine runaway until it destroyed itself and it was not a pretty sight - and nothing could be done. Fortunately it was stationary! My mechanic also advised me that it is essential with a diesel to ensure that oil changes do not result in over fill. It is better to be a bit short than have too much for all the reasons above. Even without leakage of fuel into the oil, an engine having too much oil can also end up with the hot oil being forced past the pistons to the combustion space! I used to think garages were cutting things short when the oil gauge did not show absolutely full after a service -- but now know better!
  11. Katee34

    Boot lid

    Hi Dave I have a 2010 XF 3.0D Luxury and in the handbook it refers to an emergency release for the boot lid as Joe points out , however I do not have one and when I enquired of Jag none of the technicians could recollect ever seeing one on this model. Thanks to the picture you posted I found ~I had the same slot in the lining for the boot but nothing else. I do not know therefore if this was a facility for another market, an earlier model , or provision for a facility not yet fitted. Can any others indicate if earlier or later models had such a facility? Thanks for raising this as you appear to be the first to have seen any real evidence that such a facility might have been provided at some stage/market on the XF. Keith
  12. Clearly there is at least one fault but I wondered if the additional information below gave any more clues to the possible causes. As above, after the repair, I started with a full tank and gauge reading just under half full , Range “220m”. Since then I have done 220 m and still have a range of 185m ! Odometer seems to be accurate as are mpg readings. The gauge has slowly descended from just under half to just over quarter and made its way back to just under half! Additionally a firm press on the accelerator sometimes produces the expected punch of acceleration but at other times just a long delay before acceleration or even nothing – as if there was air in the fuel line. Progressive acceleration and smooth driving are as normal. Any further ideas guys?
  13. How many miles have you travelled since filling up? Whilst the fuel gauge should read the correct level the range calculation often needs some input as to your driving characteristics. Hence if you are light footed you will get a higher indicated range than if you are heavy footed. It may therefore take a few miles for you to get an updated reading.
  14. Just to clarify the history so that the evidence is clearer, I too first understood the problem of the disappearing fuel gauge was associated with the connector on the top of the unit immediately under the black plastic cover under the rear seat. Before going to the garage I had inspected this ,and found condensation as has been pointed out. I wiped this away, released and disconnected the connector to inspect it. The contact metal was bright and clean. I tightened up the connector blades to ensure a tight fit on the spade ends, worked the connector up and down and reconnected.- but with no effect on the disappeared fuel gauge. It was at this point that I went to my garage and was informed that the problem was not so much the exterior connector but usually associated with the connections inside the tank –under the fuel of all crazy places! I do not know/have not seen what is inside the tank so the following is only what I have been told. The mechanic removed the “sender unit” from the tank and then inside the tank removed the connector and crimped the connections. He replaced the sender unit – ie the original . He was puzzled that the now restored fuel gauge read low and re examined the unit to see if there was any damage or sticking of the float- but there was none apparent. I decided to try the car to see if there might be any self healing and to return if not – still early days yet . 1 I am particularly interested in the comment and possibility that the problem might be caused by incorrect connections on the crimped leads. How many leads are there and hence what scope for error? If the sender signals are digital as I believe they may be then is polarity an issue. 2 I have read elsewhere in another post that there is a magnet on the side of the pump/sender unit which can get displaced. Do you know anything of this as it was not known to my mechanic for this model?
  15. Thank you to both of you who posted helpful replies. Please excuse my ignorance of this web site ,but I tried to reply to you and it just got lost and I will have to do it again. My origianal entry is now shown greyed out - what does this mean please - I cannot find any advice on the use of the web site I chose to use the members only section - was this correct? Your help before I try to repost would be appreciated
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