GGDad-1

Right, not exactly a rapid repair as my brilliant local garage are always fully booked for up to a week !! They came and towed my car in on Monday morning. Using a rigid bar system, can't suspend tow 4 wheel drive vehicles. They could see a fluid leak and topped up the single hydraulic cylinder to keep braking systems supported. Started Wednesday afternoon and I collected on Thursday lunch time. The full bill including tow recovery just £156. The problem being split and damaged hoses. The slave cylinder is held in the bellhousing by a metal spring clip. This had corroded to the point of failure. Activating the clutch caused excessive movement to hydraulic pipes which then failed. No need to replace, or even disturb the clutch plates. I would suggest all 'X' type (Petrol?) owners of vehicles pushing 10 years old check this spring clip. It's not the cost that's important, but the inconvenience of a roadside failure and recovery. You know it makes sense !! GGDad-1

I'd been noticing the outer poly-carbonate light covers on my 2005 'X' type were turning quite yellow. I was also aware that the light output wasn't as good as I seemed to remember. I do very little driving now, let alone night driving, under 3K last year. I'm a model maker railway/aircraft and decided to polish off the top surface of the plastic. I used various grades of wet-n-dry, well lubricated, probably started with 220 grade, went through to 1000 and then micromesh to 9000. This leaves the surface a fine dull white. I then polished with Brasso - for as long as it took to return my lights to a clear white looking 'glass'. Not only does it look much better, but gives a considerable improvement in emitted light. GGDad-1

O.K it's two plus years, but I'm facing a similar situation, but I feel certain it's just the Slave Cylinder. My 2005 'X' Sport Manual 2.5 that I bought new has been driving perfectly, no odd noises, no slow gear changes. After a very cold spell temps not seriously low but -2 or -3 where I hadn't used the car for a couple of days. I was going out on Saturday evening, I engaged 1st drove up my very steep drive into the road, no hints of any trouble, then when changing into second the clutch pedal hit the floor. I'm quite gentle on clutches and at under 70K am not expecting any problems. I feel certain it's the seals in the slave cylinder that have blown. I recall several occasions where during very cold & frosty weather I lost hydraulic systems in my 100E 1172 Ford Anglia. Once the clutch, but we limped home from a party with clutchless changes after a push start in 1st. The other was brakes where the seals in a rear brake blew depositing fluid in the drum - I drove for several days with just a hand brake operating on one rear wheel !! No I wouldn't do that now, but nearly 50 years ago the roads were somewhat quieter. I'll be having my local garage collect from the road barely 30 yards from home and see what comes of their examination. Fluids do take in moisture which is why hydraulic fluids should be changed every 3 years, but I doubt the slave cylinder has been bled since new. In fact as it's inside the bell housing it may be that it can't be bled ? At 75 I no longer crawl under cars and since new September 2005 I've done nothing for myself on this vehicle. I'll let you know how I get on. GGDad-1 ........ actually GGDad of 3 now !!

Ouch - I wish you luck ...... My 2005 2.5 manual had a similar problem that originated from the central locking system. It proved to need a major locking system job, that included the drivers door handle needing replacing as the fixings were corroded into the handle. I think my final bill was just under £700 (Main Dealer) . As I didn't use the car every day I had to disconnect the battery to prevent the interior light flattening the battery. As it was several years ago now I can't recall if there were other locking problems, one of which I think was that I couldn't lock the car or the intruder alarm set off warning that a door was not secured. Other than that not much help I'm afraid. GGDad-1

I'm puzzled by the statement intermittent abs activation ? Can't quite understand exactly what you feel through the car. I've just had my NSR Relucter Ring replaced after continuous problems with ABS, then the MIL lights coming on and sometimes self cancelling after stopping, or parking up for hours to days. Mine is a 2005 2.5 petrol and the diagnostic fault was indicating under rotation of the NSR. I do wonder what was disturbed when your bearings were replaced if these problems only surfaced following that work. GGDad-1

Right to keep all in the picture. Today I drove to Yeovil the first real mileage since I had a new Relucter Ring fitted to my NSR hub on Tuesday 19th. No winking lights, there and back fine, everything apparently working as it should. This is the longest mileage without ABS, or MIL lights coming on since October ? My mileage is low since we moved to West Dorset and the few short journeys between last Tuesday 19th when the new part was fitted were simply not a test. Conclusion is that my fault was a rusting, although visually O.K looking Relucter Ring. The new ring (Not a genuine Jaguar spare) has solved a problem that my garage had been unable to identify, let alone fix. If you feel that you need to fit replacements to cure persistent ABS & MIL warnings I would look at replacing. The rings cost £5.95 each from the on line supplier as listed in my message of 10th Jan. My garage did the fitting and their bill was £57. A happy bunny again ................... GGDad-1

Today all I've done is unload. Yesterday though I took my "Thomas" layout to Beamister, Dorset where our Bridport & District MRC were having an exhibition. Folded in two this fits the 'X' type boot exactly, just a few mm to get in & out Built for children to drive, but you need eyes in the back of your head. Got home tired and my voice failing !! This set-up photo from a showing in the Seaton Library, Devon in December. GGDad-1

O.K Monday is a while back - It's Wed now, but just getting around to airing my frustrations. So we drove to Weymouth, great, just as it should be. Began to think cleaning the NSR ABS sensor was the key. NO !! on the way back the ABS light came on again & with it the snatch between overun & drive. Worse than that being a manual box I changed down rolling down a steepish hill into Swyre to be ready for accelerating up the hill as you come out of the village. During the change the engine cut-out, but back in gear it brought it back to life. Stopped at home to drop the wife & shopping off. Decided to take it to the garage as they requested, on the re-start the ABS light went out and the MIL light came on !! Nothing they could do there and then, but now I have my replacement Relucter Rings here it's booked in for them to replace the NSR. So will begin the next step onto sorting out WHY the ABS light should come on (with the code showing problems at the NSR). Has anyone else suffered this annoying fault ???? GGDad-1

May as well try and keep this moving as at some time I'll find the answer that just could help others. I didn't ask for the fault code, I will if there is a next time into the garage. My garage thought it was a softish tyre, they say the indications were of under-rotation on the NSR. That is twice, after the first time ATS checked the tyre, no problem there and sealed the rim. With a second warning I've now changed the wheels around so I know there is no longer any tyre/wheel status quo. While the wheel was off I removed the ABS sensor, there was the slightest sign of dirt which has been removed. I was surprised the garage hadn't had this out, but obviously not as there was road dirt in the fixing. They did tell me the Relucter Ring was fine, but I've ordered 2 from XTypeParts.com and should the warning lights come back (As I think they will) the next move will be to replace these - both sides, no good changing 1, that's asking for problems developing on the other side. The Big test will be on Monday when we're going to Weymouth, only a 40 mile round trip, but recently enough to have lights coming on. More to follow as I chase this fault. GGDad-1

O.K I've just joined - thought about it years ago, but have rather busy life. Now I'm in trouble I thought I may find some help - sorry for 'taking advantage' but that's life. Back in 2005 I bought my 2.5 petrol Manual box X type. Now done 62 K and it's giving me problems. First the ABS light comes on when warm & cruising at 70 brakes not being used I then notice a slight snatch between drive & coasting as you do in main road traffic Then the engine warning light comes on, sometimes at this point the ABS light goes out. It's not unusual for there to be no warning lights after being parked up overnight. My local garage said it was the NSR perhaps under-rotating. They checked tyre pressures but couldn't find anything wrong. It's getting worse and since then has cut-out on overun. A quick re-start while still rolling and then no warning lights ...... for a short while. Because it's running as sweet as ever I wasn't too concerned, can pull 6500 rpm and the brakes seem to work fine. Then yesterday on overun it went into safe mode and the red warning light came on. As I was almost at my destination I just parked up for 3 hours. Came out re-started no red light, out of limp mode, but still the engine warning light on. Took to my local garage today. Reading NSR problem, nothing they could see. Switched warning off and I have it back at home. This last check done FOC. I'm seriously thinking the ABS Relucter Ring may be falling apart. Any other suggestions. I no longer want to crawl under cars being 73, I want to rely on my instruments and want to get fixed - without needing a second mortgage that a Main Dealer would need. Oh and I'm sensitive to my vehicles, after 1.5 million miles. GGDad-1

Took it to the garage - Cost me nothing !! Switched off the warning light, but can't find anything wrong. GGDad-1