S type 2006 2.7 v6 diesel Auto Gearbox fault amber light

[Jonny5]

Hi , have a Jaguar s type , I have had the gearbox fault appear with amber light , I try to pull away in first gear but very sluggish , like pulling away in 4 gear .  I then stop turn off wait few seconds , back on drives fine then may not come  back on for days ? . Have had it plugged in at local garage no fault codes appeared .  Even when the amber light was still on , then had a auto electrician look at it , he came up with mass flow something fault code and egr fault code and he also had to top up gearbox Oil , litre and half , I drove it for two days then engine management light comes on , driving fine , so had codes read , egr popped up again , got that cleared , hasnt come on since , for at least three days , now today gearbox fault has come on this morning while pulling away , turned off then bk on and its been fine . Asked a few people but everyone says main dealer diagnostic as their computer will read more indepth , please please does anyone have any ideas im in Bristol , people have said it could all be linked as ie egr could be popping the gearbox fault or something else could be triggering it off . Many thanks John 

[Old Peter]

Hi John, and welcome to the Club.

The S Type has two EGR valves, and I sometimes get a few lurches with the auto box which I find is a sign that the EGR valves need cleaning.  I use a canister of Wynns Diesel EGR Cleaner which seems to work. It costs under a tenner, and very easy to do, just getting the engine up to normal operating temperature and taking out the air filter  --  just follow the instructions on the can.

The gearbox fault message has never come up though.

Regards,

Peter.  

[jimster]

Hi, Old Peter, I am a newby too and I have had an 2.7 S type for some years, and am very happy. I have been having a similar problem to John.

It is occurring intermittently, usually on cold starting. Do you think that the treatment above will help?

In N Ireland we do not have many specialist independent garages.

 

Regards Jimster

[Old Peter]

Hi James and welcome to the Club.

Before hazarding a guess have you had a code reader plugged in to find any codes?

It could be the SGR valves not behaving properly.  An easier option than Wynnes is Millers Ego Plus Diesel -- about a tenner from Halfords or any good auto accessory shop.  Just a shot in a full tank.

Let us know how you get on.

Regards,

Peter.

[jimster]

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly Peter. I am not really sure if I can get the codes read without going to the main dealer in Belfast and if it will so the fault unless it is occurring at the time. I may give the Miller's a go. Am I right in thinking it is a general conditioner/cleaner?

 

Thanks again Jimster

[Old Peter]

Hi james,

Millers Eco Max is advertised more or less as a general additive, which improves emissions [cleans up the fuel system] adds cetane [improves the fuel] and similar.

I do know that it got rid of the messagecoe involving sticky EGR valves, and in spite of a lot of short runs seems to keep the DPF clean.

My little code reader cost £20, my mechanics code reader cost over £2000, so you can see that there is a big difference in code readers.  Most reasonable good garages will be able to give you a code, and you don't really need a specialist, as the ZF gearbox is well used in automatic cars, and EGR valves exist in all diesel engines.

It's worth having a go at an additive.

Regards,

Peter.

[jimster]

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly Peter. 

I know it is some time since, but the problem did not reoccur until this past weekend. 

Finally got to the bottom of the mystery and found that it is a 'wheel  slip sensor ' which fools the gearbox control,  also came up as abs and dsc failure all linked to the sensor fault.

Local wizard sorting it for me.

Thanks again Jimster

[JOE-DOT-COM]

Hi

auto faults can often be caused by faulty abs sensors,

gearbox relies on abs sensors to work correct

You need to get plugged in with Jaguar IDS/SDD, generic code readers will only read engine faults and nothing else

Its usually a sensor fault or failure

cheers

Joe

[jimster]

Thanks Joe, 

The engineer who I have been speaking to used a diagnostic tool which gave him a number of codes. He is certain that the source of these is a abs wheel slip sensor. 

Fingers crossed that he was is correct as the part is expensive and only available from  Jaguar. 

Jimster 

[piria33]

On 5/21/2018 at 10:30 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

auto faults can often be caused by faulty abs sensors,

gearbox relies on abs sensors to work correct

You need to get plugged in with Jaguar IDS/SDD, generic code readers will only read engine faults and nothing else

Its usually a sensor fault or failure

cheers

Joe

Very much so. I've been having issues with mine. Box was running fine, but then the DSC would kick in very early around corners. shifting became harsher and it started surging too.

Then ABS nearside rear fault came up a week or 2 later. Cleaned up the reluctor and replaced the abs sensor. all back to normal after that.

Then again last week the offside rear abs fault came up and gearbox shifting became harsher. The reluctor was quite warped and had scraped quite a bit away from the sensor. New sensor would not fit in due to the peaks on the ring.

I bought a new reluctor ring and will be fitted next week. Had to buy 2 sizes as nobody is sure which one until we've cleaned up the CV joint.

[Guest]

Hi Christopher,

Just out of interest, and as some people have had to acquire replacement driveshaft / cv joint to overcome this problem, would you mind keeping us posted regarding how you get on installing the new Reluctor Ring(s) and how you one about it please?

I had problems with both rear sensors over last winter but managed to get away with replacing just one and giving the reluctor ring and shaft a thorough clean to get the other side working properly. I may yet need to go through the same pain as yourself.

Cheers,

Steve

[piria33]

Sure will do! I wasn't able to acquire a new shaft/CV joint. R&R CV's don't have stock and other suppliers wanted a huge amount of money for a half shaft.

There was only one supplier for the window type reluctor rings for my model. reluctorrings.com.

About 48 pounds each and come in 2 sizes for mine. Had to buy 2 sizes as nobody could confirm the size, 88.9 or 90.0mm inner diameter. They'll refund me once I send the unused one back. They are an improved version over stock. Much stronger.

I might just swap the unused one for the size on the nearside and get both done in 2 visits.

 

Once they start to stretch with the rust its only a matter of time before they become so warped or just snap. You've seen how rust on rods within concrete walls split the concrete? It has a lot of force.

My local garage have done many reluctor ring changes on mercs (owner/boss is doing it as he has the most experience). They slide the half shaft out of the hub and clean up the surface first. Then heat the ring to expand it and fit it in. In fact when I visited them he had one next to his desk that he was about to do.

Probably about an hours labour each side.

They'll pop in the new sensor I have also and fingers crossed all fits well.

he said it wasn't worth changing the CV joint or shaft as they tend to last forever on the rear drive cars.

 

Wish I had an osciliscope to see the square waves in action.

[Guest]

Many thanks Christopher.

Ouch - £48 each or per pair? I know you can get these from the US and that their prices + postage is high but then again a driveshaft/cvjoint is much more expensive.

I guessed some heat would be needed to fit them to the drive shaft shield and had wondered if the shield itself needed to be re-furbished or replaced as part of the process. My other question about this concerned the proper location of the ring and how to check this? Maybe your guy would be kind enough to share this info with us.

Cheers again, Steve

P.S. I'm a Staffycher lad myself and was drug up in Newcastle to which part of the county do you hail?

[piria33]

Each!! I know I searched high and low but nobody else sold the window type. Only the toothed type for cheaper. They do have to be made very accurately though.

Eventually got my credit card out as its spoiling the enjoyment of the Jag ride.

Yes I did wonder about the exact fitment. Maybe they'll mark the old spot otherwise the sensor won't line up. I'll ask next Tuesday.

 

reluctorrings.com do have a fitting service if you want that. But means sending in your shaft or CV joint. Mine is a daily drive so need it done in the day.

[piria33]

Does look like it fits right on the edge. Also the distance from the CV joint is probably used as a ref.

 

if they get it wrong the first time I assume they have to remove the CV joint then to heat it up again to move it!

[piria33]

It may be possible to change them yourself after reading their notes:

 

Quote

Note that when fitting the hole style of reluctor ring it’s not necessary to heat the reluctor up. We have found that once the driveshaft is cleaned up applying a small amount of loctite nutlock or similar adhesive onto the driveshaft then drifting the reluctor ring into place is all that is required for a permanent fixing.

Note: On some Mercedes /Peugeot/Jaguar rings we have replaced the slotted rectangular holes with drilled holes. Do not be alarmed, they work perfectly ok. We have done this to make the replacement stronger 1) for fitting purposes and 2) to alleviate the problem of breaking in the future.

 

[JOE-DOT-COM]

8 hours ago, piria33 said:

Sure will do! I wasn't able to acquire a new shaft/CV joint. R&R CV's don't have stock and other suppliers wanted a huge amount of money for a half shaft.

There was only one supplier for the window type reluctor rings for my model. reluctorrings.com.

About 48 pounds each and come in 2 sizes for mine. Had to buy 2 sizes as nobody could confirm the size, 88.9 or 90.0mm inner diameter. They'll refund me once I send the unused one back. They are an improved version over stock. Much stronger.

I might just swap the unused one for the size on the nearside and get both done in 2 visits.

 

Once they start to stretch with the rust its only a matter of time before they become so warped or just snap. You've seen how rust on rods within concrete walls split the concrete? It has a lot of force.

My local garage have done many reluctor ring changes on mercs (owner/boss is doing it as he has the most experience). They slide the half shaft out of the hub and clean up the surface first. Then heat the ring to expand it and fit it in. In fact when I visited them he had one next to his desk that he was about to do.

Probably about an hours labour each side.

They'll pop in the new sensor I have also and fingers crossed all fits well.

he said it wasn't worth changing the CV joint or shaft as they tend to last forever on the rear drive cars.

 

Wish I had an osciliscope to see the square waves in action.

hi

I would imagine 90mm is standard, 88.9mm will allow for refurb on the cv/driveshaft, usually only way to get them fit correct it to have it skimmed in a lathe, down to the 88.9mm, I would assume

cheers

Joe

[duncan clift]

Hi, I have a 2003 jag 3000 petrol S type and the gear box warning light comes on with a message that the power is now reduced. A bit jerky on pull off too. How can I fix it?

kind regards and thanks for any advice.

duncan mcgregor

[Old Peter]

Welcome to the club, Duncan.

You will need  an OBD2 reader that will tell you what the Code number is and that will tell you the problem is the problem is.  If you are a Member of the AA or RAC they will tell you and likely to fix it. 

If not, a good garage should have the OBD2 equipment.

Regards,

Peter.