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S-Type battery woes - a possible solution


Raistlin
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  • 6 months later...

  • 4 months later...

G,day everyone,

Thanks for all your valuable comments, got a small (I hope) problem with my 2004 S type in that DSC lite came up, then ALL lites came up and  went into limp mode (the jag, not me), charged up the battery and all ok, till 2 days later, battery showed "needs charging," although stars and runs fine ???? I put the car on a Solar charger (about 5watts) when coming to Pommy land each year and all ok. Great forum and advice..... Pommy Pete (Expat from Didcot)

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hi

possible tired battery or alternator not charging

have you checked battery voltage when stood and running

when stood , should never go below 12volts, if it does battery duff, when running should be around 14v plus,any less alternator duff

cheers

Joe

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  • 2 months later...

Recently I solved a water leak from the pipe union between the expansion tank and water hose. This was dropping coolant and in turn causing the alternator to become soaked. If the windings are wet then sparking will occur and the charge output will drop. Now the engine bay is dry again I noticed the battery charge has improved and I can put off buying a new battery for the time being. 

I really think s-type owners should check around the top of the radiator and the fan housing for any sign of water and if found deal with it, this is particularly relevant to charging issues.

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  • 10 months later...
On 1/23/2018 at 12:17 PM, piria33 said:

...

Other issue I had was removing the retaining bolt of course. copious amount of wd40 under the car and an 1/8th of a turn at a time. 1/8 turn and 2 turns back repeated about 100 times!! Finally came loose.

Then after reinstalling I applied lots of lithium grease underneath.

When I took on my S-Type there was no sign of the long bolt which holds the battery in, just a rusty stub sticking out underneath and a Halfords receipt for a new battery with the documents. The battery was 'held' in place by a daisy chain of cable-ties. This looked like a potential MoT fail to me.

Not having seen the system as it should be, I drilled and tapped the remains of the captive bolt in the boot floor and put a new 1.5" long bolt in from underneath. Now the plastic battery retaining block is held by a nylok nut and the threads are inside the boot. So the bolt head can rust all it likes under the boot floor, I won't be touching it again for the life of the car.

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  • 6 months later...

My 2005 2.7D had various probs with the electronic brake and the odd ABS warning and a couple of others too. Finally flat battery after leaving the car sitting for 4/5 days.

Bought a new battery, no starting probs  but a weekly parking brake block, flash of ABS too. I removed the short - battery lead, cleaned the connections to the battery and body. Soldered the cable to the terminal at each end and refitted the cable. after 6 months I have had no more parking brake problems or any flashes at all on the screen when starting. The quality of the battery connections cannot be over emphasised on these cars.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello All,

My first post. Just to set expectations, my mechanical experience is limited to referencing Haynes manuals some 40 years ago.  It was always cold and wet and I always lost skin on my knuckles.

I registered on this site some months back when I invested in a 2007 2.7d s type as a bit of a project car to work on in retirement.    I experienced many of the issues flagged in this topic, such as the EML and EPB warning.   Had Halfords fit a new battery and everything seemed fine.  Bought the trickle charger (as recommended here) and kept the battery topped up continuously as I hardly use the car.   A month or two later it came time for the MOT and it needed new sills (of course).  The garage kept the car for 3-4 days and it transpired they also had to charge me for a new battery - it had gone dead whilst they had the car. 

So I assumed I had some kind of drain.  Bought a multi-meter and tested with the ignition off, doors and boot closed, and there is a 0.8 amp to 1 amp drain.  

This afternoon I have been through all the blade fuses, one by one,  in all three fuse boxes.  I can't seem to be able to isolate the potential culprit.

My question is,  was it a waste of time going through the fuses?   Is it 'normal' for an s type to drain like this ?  Maybe it is the passive security. Judging by the comments virtually everyone recommends a trickle charger.  I was going to use the Jag for a road trip to the Highlands but I'm worried the battery will go flat if I don't keep it on charge for more than a day or two.  I suppose I could just disconnect the battery every night but surely there is a better solution ?

Thanks,

Nick

 

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hi

did you wait 40 minutes so the car goes asleep

you have to put tape over the boot switch, so it thinks its locked, or as soon as you open the boot or doors the car will wake up and you got wait 40 minutes again

if you want workshop manual look here http://www.jagrepair.com/

also have a read here http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2/S-Type/414Charging/S414-01am Quiescent Drain Current.pdf

cheers

Joe

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Hi Joe 

Thanks for the info. The links were useful. I didn't wait the 40 mins. I'll try another test and wait the specified time to see if the amps drop as documented!

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Update:  I waited 40 mins and the drain reduced to 0.02a so I'm at a loss why the car had a dead battery after 3 days at the garage.

I may just leave the Jag off the trickle charge for a week and see if it starts. 

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Hi

20mA is ideal, either you battery is on its way, or more favorable the garage left the ignition on and flattened it

They never admit to any !Removed! ups, I dont use garages, try do all my own work, garages are not like they use to be.

cheers

Joe

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  • 5 months later...

Got the dreaded warning lights for the second time in two weeks.  The scenario for both tines was the same, running for a few minutes/ short journey had the demist screen on/AC/rear screen/lights so a fair amount of load.  After the first time I managed to reset it and checked the battery voltage when running and it was around 15.6v, seems a little high?  Had it autumn time last year and replaced the battery so it's relatively new, plus it's on trickle charge as not used a great deal.  I've had it checked at a local specialist and the list of faults was long and painful, apart from it was saying CanBus error?  Garage reckons it could either be a "glitch" or a problem with the wiring somewhere????  It now will not even turn over, I've disconnected the battery for around an hour but still no joy.  It's booked into the specialist for Wednesday, providing the AA will pop round and get it there.  

Now, before I spend a small fortune on it chasing none existing electrical gremlins, is it worth replacing said nearly new battery and keeping it on trickle charge?

 

Once I get it moving of course.

 

Oh the joys

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/5/2021 at 12:21 AM, mrmike said:

My 2005 2.7D had various probs with the electronic brake and the odd ABS warning and a couple of others too. Finally flat battery after leaving the car sitting for 4/5 days.

Bought a new battery, no starting probs  but a weekly parking brake block, flash of ABS too. I removed the short - battery lead, cleaned the connections to the battery and body. Soldered the cable to the terminal at each end and refitted the cable. after 6 months I have had no more parking brake problems or any flashes at all on the screen when starting. The quality of the battery connections cannot be over emphasised on these cars.

Still Perfect, My car sometimes is not used for a week or slightly more like now, Just got over Covid!

The car is outside and I do not have a charger etc, true it is rare that the temperature goes below 0C but it regularly goes over 37C in the summer. I cannot stress enough the importance of very good battery connections for reliable starting and lack of ominous messages.

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