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S Type Electric Handbrake


actros
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Hi Guys

My issue relates to the electric handbrake fitted to the S type but I would assume, fitted to other Jaguar models as well. Mine is a 2004 model but this issue is driving me "nuts".

Start the car - fine. Go to pull away - handbrake will not release. Sometimes switching off and removing the key then re-starting solves the problem but most of the time its a case of disconnecting the battery losing all the pre-set settings in the process. I keep my battery topped up via trickle charge once a fortnight as I know these cars can have issues if the battery is slightly below par.

My car is automatic so in theory, I don't need a handbrake. Has anyone disconnected or by-passed these electric handbrakes or have any knowledge how to do so? 

Thanks guys.

May I wish everyone a Happy and motoring issues free year for 2017

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This can sometimes be corrected by using the Diagnostic software to move the EPB to service position.

It is also a good idea to go through the battery reset procedure which is outlined HERE

The handbrake reset process, which is part of the above, usually settles things down.

 

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Hi

If you getting the fault, I would say you need to look at it, its either going to be EPB assembly or one of the handbrake cables

you could disconnect the EPB module in the boot, with the park brake off, which would disable the EPB, but I would not recommend this because, the park mechanism on the gearbox is not strong enough to hold the cars weight, also if you park on a slope and put it in park, the odds are it wont release because of the weight on the park mech, so then you will get a gearbox fault and get it stuck in park and lastly you will lose the park brake as a emergency brake, if you keep pulling the park brake lever up, while your driving, every time you click it up it will bring the park brake on, till it locks the rear wheels and will release if you press the accelerator at any time

personally I'd get it fixed properly, like i said its either the EPB, more expensive option ( there's a epicyclic gears inside it, than run dry, not enough grease inside, then they wear and jam up regular, once worn.

or it going to be the handbrake cables, they go really tight as they get old and corrode, overloading the EPB and causing it not to reach it desired position

hears a link to a clip on how to operate the EPB motor manually https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xebdRYwtjE

and you dont have to disconnect the battery, no other memory will be lost.

I'd replace the park brake cable first as there reasonably cheap, or at least check them, they should slide nice and smooth, also check the rear brake calipers lever for the handbrake operates smoothly, normal s-types hand brake operates a lever on the main brake caliper, operating the inner pads only, if there not setup correct this can cause EPB faults, s-type R up to 2005 has  two brake calipers at the rear, one solely for EPB and one for footbrake

I removed my EPB when I first had the car, knowing that they can be troublesome and greased it all up and checked the cables were nice and free and mines worked faultlessly for nearly 2 years now.

also if the rubber boots have perished at each end of the cables, they fill with damp and water and this time of year when its frosty, your guaranteed a " EPB FAULT", or excessive rear pad wear and if there frozen, there's no freeing them till they thaw

cheers

Joe

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I had a "Parkbrake Fault" 3 weeks ago.  I followed the usual procedure and all was well for a couple of weeks.  Then on the 24th December I had it again and did the ECU reset again, plus I h=gave the car a full battery charge, which I do every week in the winter,

On the 26th the Parkbrake fault  message came up again - reset and gave the battery a charge again.  The alternator was doing its job.

On the 28th the same happened, and by this time I was keeping my tow spanners handy, which was just as well, as after two hours on the charger the battery was still not fully charged.

On the 29th failure agains, and the usual procedure only worked the third time.  Also I noticed that the temperature gauge when fully warm was a little bit over its normal position.

Very close to where I live is an auto accessory shop who did a battery check and confirmed that the battery which is 4 years 11 months old was not accepting a full charge. He had the correct battery in stock and fitted it on the spot [ cheaper than Halfords even with the 15% discount].  

No problems since, and the temp gauge now sits in its proper position!

Peter.

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Hi peter

Battery is all ways a possible on the s-type, its seems to give the most problems on the s-type and generates a range of fault codes being displayed

Its especially a problem on Diesels, as diesels suck so much out of the battery on startup, due to glow plug heaters and starting current being so much higher than a petrol, even though the Diesel's have the largest alternators fitted to the s-types

It worth checking your battery, best time to check your battery is after its stood overnight, if its on its way out, they loose there charge more rapid and a good battery will hold for much longer, Ideally it should be over 12.5V and if its below 12v then is due for replacement, with the engine running you should at least have 14V up to 14.5V, also the s-type seems to have problems with certain faults which cause loads/leakage and cause the battery to discharge more rapidly, like a interior light left on or the flap on the ignition lock, when it sticks, it stops the car going into a sleep mode and causes various parts of the car to stay powered up, causing  a excessive drain on the battery.

If your handy with a multimeter, you could connect it inline with the battery and measure the current its taking, which should be quite low, not sure of exact figures as I've never had to do it with a s-type, on old cars it use to be the digital clock and the stereo memory, which would be next to nothing, but on the s-type, its every module, so its going to be a bit more, but for example if you put your meter inline and you got 0.35 Amp, 350 Milli Amps, if you have a 90Ah battery its 90/0.35=257 hours, so in 257 hours the battery would be completely flat, so 0.5A drain would be 90/.5=180 hours and 1A drain will be 90/1=90 hours, so you can see how battery drain effect the battery life, that's a new good battery, a old tired battery will be much reduced

cheers

Joe

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Hi Joe,

Thanks for the assistance.  I have thought about buying a multimeter, but Bob over the road has one, and he did the check for me.  The alternator was doing its job quite well and pushing in between 14.9 and 15 amps   ---   I have a little widget that tells me.

Knowing that 5 years is a good life for a battery I was guessing that mine would be on the way out soon.  Being a nit picker [I trained as an accountant] I always do a check before leaving the car to the annoyance of SWMBO, who compares my checks to a pilot checking out Concord[e].

But all seems well know.

Hope you have a good New Year.

Regards,

Peter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had major problems with my electric parking brake (2006 S Type Auto diesel).  I appear to have resolved the situation completely by replacing the starter motor (SM) as previously reported.  For some reason, my SM had gradually deteriorated and this resulted in extended cranking as it was taking some time to get up to speed, and this was draining the battery.  This resulted in low voltage which affects the control unit for the EPB and other things.  I replaced the SM (£150 plus fitting) and this made a very obvious difference to the cranking speed.  I have also replaced my 90 AH battery with a 100 AH unit (same dimensions) and that has probably helped also.  I have a plug-in voltmeter (e-bay or Amazon about £2) in the cigar lighter and this now rarely goes below 12.5V engine stopped, and after start up runs at about 15V although after about an hour of continuous running it will drop to 14V which I suspect indicates that the battery is fully charged. 

Since changing the SM I have done about 1,000 miles including lots of short runs which are obviously more challenging, and the problem, touch wood, appears to have been completely resolved. 

It is was not obvious that the SM had deteriorated so much, but the diference the new one has made is enormous.  I have had the car since new and the deterioration had been so gradual that I had not noticed.  If all else fails, I should try changing the SM.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have also had problems with my 2007 XJ EPB. Mine locked on after a series of cold nights and very short journeys so I put it down to a battery issue. I contacted the garage I bought the car from. I told them I had fully charged the battery. They told me to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes. This was done. Result parking brake working properly and best of all the radio settings etc. All saved.

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Hi stephenk 

Thanks for the info.

Jags seem to have this battery issue right across the range and I'm a lttle fed up with it so I have decide to install a battery isolation switch instead of having to unbolt the terminals all the time.

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1 hour ago, actros said:

Hi stephenk 

Thanks for the info.

Jags seem to have this battery issue right across the range and I'm a lttle fed up with it so I have decide to install a battery isolation switch instead of having to unbolt the terminals all the time.

Hi

Its much better to use a smart charger like a CTEK, much better long term

keep the battery connected, using a smart charger, that charges the battery, then turns off, monitors the voltage, then charger kicks in again to top up, this what a smart charger does, not a cheap trickle charger, that never goes off basically and boils the battery dry long term

leaving ecu's and control modules un-powered for long periods of time can cause capacitors to fails inside them, causing the ecu or module to fail, when you turn the key off various electronics and modules stay powered up in like a standby mode, this stops various components failing like capacitors, I'd say 99 percent of electronics that fail in a car, will be down to capacitor failure, due to heat and being powered down

cheers

Joe

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Good fully charged batteries are very essential in most modern cars with plenty of electrical equipment.  The electrical handbrake can be a nuisance, though.

I bought a battery isolator for the very same reason, but for the very same reason highlighted by Joe it is still in  its packaging in the boot.

Fitting a new battery and a Ctek battery condition indicator [cost about £7] and I also  a solar charger to keep it topped up has cured the "Parkbrake Fault" message.

Regards,

Peter.

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Hi David,

I have the Ring Solar Power Battery Maintainer --  RSP180.

It has not got the power to charge a 90ah battery from flat, but it does keep it topped up.

I got it online from Car Care. About £18.

Regards, 

Peter.

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Thanks Peter,

My daughter lives in New Zealand, and needs something to keep her car battery topped up: Her car is parked some distance from her house.

They have a lot of sunshine most of the year, so it should work a treat.

She is coming over in July, so I will probably get it for her to take back in her luggage.

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Hi

Maplin do a few solar chargers, that you connect direct to the battery

pop the solar panel in the rear parcel shelf and connect to the battery

But, in this country, there useless most of the year and only charge well when its in good sun

cheers

Joe

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Hi

they do but, they put very little into the battery

maplin do a few, one is 5 watt, which is a descent size, some are 2 watt or 4 watt, If we go with the bigger one 5 watt that at full power will do 0.41 amps, that would be in good sun,

so in dull weather, would hardley do much at all

cheers

Joe

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