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Steering lock won't release


Funferet
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I seem to be having multiple problems with the electrics of a recently purchased 2007 2.7 diesel S type. Since purchase the central locking function of the key fob has been iffy but I was content to open the door with the key. Recently the key failed to open the door at all and when I eventually gained entry and inserted the key into the ignition the steering lock failed to disengage and hence the car will not start and is now a temporary (I hope) feature of my local LIdl car park. Can anyone offer a solution so that I can at least start the car and drive it to a garage who can diagnose the electrical problems I am encountering.

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The first thing I would do is check battery voltage. Although I have an early car I know that the later ones with CAN-BUS can be very sensitive to low voltage and throw up all sorts of different faults and codes when they don't get all the amps they want. This feature is combined with a charging system that is notoriously fickle, there are certain types of battery that the later S-types' electrics can't charge fully, but that's where my knowledge runs out I'm afraid.

Back to the pressing issue; As I said, check for low voltage, I would put money on that being the problem. I would want no less that 12.8v with no load but it's best to then put a load on the battery and see how much the voltage drops, electric windows/wipers/headlamps etc will do. This load test can show up a low battery that with no load appears ok, remember points of a volt can make all the difference!

If it is low then the best solution would be to take the battery home and put it on a charger for as long as you can, half an hour won't do much!

I hope I'm on the right track here, it could of course be a central locking fault but the battery would be my prime suspect, plus it's an easy check.

 

 

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Yes I have checked it since the problem. I checked it when I disconected the battery in the hope that would cure the problem, as it would with a power brake lock on.

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Ah, that's a shame, the apparent developing nature of the fault(s) convinced me it was power related.

I don't have any direct experience with the newer cars' electronics, hopefully someone who does can help.

There are Jaguar-published electrical guides floating about here and there that may help you track down the fault.

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I believe your problem lies in the calibration of the steering lock.

As you know, the steering lock is actually remote from the key and is operated by a solenoid.

Steering lock calibration is generally knocked off kilter following a low battery voltage or, alternatively, by somebody playing with the diagnostics who doesn't know what they are doing, crashing out of the diagnostics rather than closing it down in good order. They have also been known to lose calibration for no discernible reason other than perversity.

The calibration is a simple five minute task but unfortunately requires the SDD diagnostics and somebody who knows what they are doing. I believe your only option is to get a local indie or dealership to reset it for you. I suspect that a dealership wouldn't do the job in situ and you'd be required to have the car recovered to their premises. Maybe an indie would be more amenable to attempt the reset in situ. Dealerships usually charge 30 minutes labour for the reset using the diagnostics which would cost between £60 and £95, indy would charge less I guess.

Testing with a generic OBD code checker such as those carried by AA and RAC patrols, will tell you only that there is a fault with the steering lock.

Worst case scenario is that the steering lock module is U/S and will require a replacement. That will be several hundred pounds for the module if I recall the price correctly. The job, which includes reset of course, is reasonably straightforward and shouldn't cost more than 1 hour labour charge. Although, having said that, the steering lock assembly can sometimes be a devil to separate from the steering column assembly. Another method is to replace the whole steering column with a used part from a breakers which, as you might expect, obviates the need to remove the steering lock assembly although it is a much more involved job overall and still requires the use of SDD to link the steering lock module to the car's security system.

From experience, for what it's worth, I've seen this fault several times now and each time it has merely required the reset.

This is a good example of why people buy the diagnostics hardware and software. Dead simple and infinitely cheaper to solve the problem yourself rather than calling in the professionals.

If I was closer I'd do the reset for you. However, maybe a JoC member who has the appropriate kit and ability might read this and be able to assist.

I wish you luck and that the steering lock module merely requires a reset.

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Many thanks for the help Paul. I will see who I can find in the local area who may be able to do a call out. Failing that I will have to get the car recovered to a specialist.

On a different note regarding your post could you tell me where I can obtain the software and hardware you mention in your post, which, I assume, can be run off a standard laptop; and the price I may expect to pay?

 

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27 minutes ago, Funferet said:

could you tell me where I can obtain the software and hardware you mention in your post, which, I assume, can be run off a standard laptop; and the price I may expect to pay?

 

Try Here :)

Clearly, at that price you will be buying a Chinese manufactured clone. Having said that, I've been using the same item for several years now and it hasn't let me down. You need to be careful which version of the software you use though. After a certain version the software needs to "phone home" and you can't do a lot with it. I can't recall the exact version at the moment but will let you know if you decide to get a Mongoose. Further, I can provide you with the correct version if it doesn't come with your Mongoose, or, alternatively, it is readily available on the 'net.

 

You will need a Windows XP laptop. You can use the software in a Windows XP image on a Windows 7 or 10 PC but it tends to be glacially slow.

In addition, Windows XP laptops are very cheap on fleabay and I find it convenient to have a Jaguar specific laptop just for the diagnostics and all the other Jaguar specific software goodies that are available. You MUST disable any internet connection beofre you install the software though, regardless of version, or else it will report the serial number.

I find the Mongoose an excellent item, providing you don't try to run before you can walk, as it were. Used incorrectly these things can brick your car.

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They also do a pro version for a little more money. Is it worth getting that or is the basic version more than adequate? I am serious about investing in this system as I have other electrical issues with the car that this may help me overcome without having to go to a dealership. What software will I require?

 

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As far as I am aware, there isn't a "pro" version Jeff. No idea what they would be charging extra for. Either will do the job. You will need SDD / IDS diagnostic software. Version 1.45 is apparently provided with the hardware but, as I previously mentioned, not a good idea to use that.

I can check when I get home and let you know for sure which version is best.

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