Jump to content


Nick2

Members
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Nick2 last won the day on January 10 2017

Nick2 had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Nick
  • Jaguar Model
    S-Type
  • Year of Jaguar
    Please Select
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Devon

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Nick2's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. I had a similar coolant loss problem. Thought it was the radiator but there are a couple of small metal pipes in the system which had corroded. These are quite costly "Jaguar only"items which I had replaced by my local workshop. When I saw them I rather wished I had taken them home a fixed them with a bit of GRP or similar which would have saved over £100.
  2. I have a key-fob which hasn't worked for some years, but have just seen an advert for replacement rubber pads and micro-switches. I had a closer look at the switches in my fob and noticed that they appeared to be gummed up with a green material that was probably lubricant 10 years ago. I applied a little penetrating oil to each switch and after a few gentle presses they came free. Fob now works again. Suspect any light lubricant such as WD40 would work as well. I put a little vaseline on each switch to maintain future lubrication.
  3. I had major problems with my electric parking brake (2006 S Type Auto diesel). I appear to have resolved the situation completely by replacing the starter motor (SM) as previously reported. For some reason, my SM had gradually deteriorated and this resulted in extended cranking as it was taking some time to get up to speed, and this was draining the battery. This resulted in low voltage which affects the control unit for the EPB and other things. I replaced the SM (£150 plus fitting) and this made a very obvious difference to the cranking speed. I have also replaced my 90 AH battery with a 100 AH unit (same dimensions) and that has probably helped also. I have a plug-in voltmeter (e-bay or Amazon about £2) in the cigar lighter and this now rarely goes below 12.5V engine stopped, and after start up runs at about 15V although after about an hour of continuous running it will drop to 14V which I suspect indicates that the battery is fully charged. Since changing the SM I have done about 1,000 miles including lots of short runs which are obviously more challenging, and the problem, touch wood, appears to have been completely resolved. It is was not obvious that the SM had deteriorated so much, but the diference the new one has made is enormous. I have had the car since new and the deterioration had been so gradual that I had not noticed. If all else fails, I should try changing the SM.
  4. I had a similar problem with a yacht and the problem was the alternator. The alternator diodes can fail and allow current to pass when everything is switched off. Replacement alternator fixed it. Just an idea, and slightly surprised that it is being drained in an hour.
  5. The closest I have come to your problems was a combination of ABS, airbags, DSC, parkbrake and gearbox failure indications. All cleared using a scanner except the real problem which was an ABS sensor (changed for £50). Subsequently changed starter motor as well which has so far prevented any more low-voltage events which seem to ause all sorts of problems. My local independent workshop can also scan the car and clear faults, and I would think that most independents can do this.
  6. I had a very similar problem with a boat. Battery going flat with everything switched off and no obvious drain. It was the alternator, although the figure was only about 2 amps. 10 amps > 120 watts > something will be getting very hot!
  7. Like a number of other S Type owners, I have suffered from periodic Parkbrake failure, sometimes with the Parkbrake on and sometimes off. The former immobilises the vehicle which can be quite inconvenient. In both cases the situation has been resolved by disconnecting the neutral connection from the battery, short-circuiting the vehicle circuit for about 30 seconds and then reconnecting. It is best to leave the key in the ignition in the "off" position as you do this, as otherwise the alarm can go off, and you need to re-set the parkbrake and input the radio code etc. This method has never failed to sort the problem. Recently however, the incidence of parkbrake failure has become greater and really quite annoying ( and sometimes embarrassing!). It also became apparent that it invariably occurred on start-up, as I cranked the engine. Having already changed the 9-year old battery, and checked the connections I came to the conclusion that the cause of the problem was the starter motor. I have just had my local non-jaguar workshop change this item (for about £330 inc VAT) and you wouldn't believe the difference in cranking speed and starting performance. Even the mechanic was surprised at the difference. Although I have started the car on only a few occasions since I am confident that this has effected a permanent cure. Having owned the car from new and covered 109,000 miles I had not appreciated the gradual deterioration in starter motor performance, which was almost certainly causing the voltage-drop that affects a number of electronic systems. If readers have a parkbrake problem I would recommend that you consider replacing the vehicle's starter motor, probably before the battery unless it is very old. If I do suffer a recurrence I shall post an additional comment. However, I am sure that will not be necessary.
  8. Thanks Peter. Perhaps some lubrication on the brake cables would help. I shall give it a go. Many thanks. Have a lovely time in Lyme and don't miss the micro-brewery.
  9. I have had a 2.7 Diesel S Type Automatic from new, and until recently it was a dream, although my deep un-happiness with the main dealer meant that I have used a local workshop for the past few years. Now done 108,000 miles. Recently a number of snags have occurred, including the parkbrake problems with the unit failing either off OR on! A couple of weeks ago the parkbrake failed off but as the car was still driveable I left it for a few days - not using the car very much. However, when returning home one evening both the ABS warning and gearbox warnings came on and the car went from driving like a cat to being a complete dog! Like being in 3rd gear all the time, with very bad "jerks" as you selected reverse or drive. I checked the internet and found lots of worrying acounts of people who had suffered similar problems and had replaced transmissions at huge cost. However, I also noted that some people used "scanners" to diagnose and eliminate faults. I obtained a scanner for about £100 (iCarsoft i930). This identified a problem with an ABS sensor which I have replaced. This has solved the ABS and gearbox problem. It has also cured a number of little niggles such as the front parking sensors, and identified the specific problem withe the rear ones (a failed sensor). However, the parking prake remains an issue and if anyone has a permanent cure for this very intermittent faultit would be much appreciated. Cannot specifially recommend that scanner I bought as I have since seen another for only £28, but this one does nearly all the jaguar range as land Rover also. I am hoping that this scanner has actually saved me from having to get a new gearbox.........
×
×
  • Create New...



Forums


News


Membership