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My ambient temp display has always indicated 10 deg C since I bought the car, after a a lot of investigation I thought I would pass on a bit of info, If for any reason the sensing thermistor loses electrical connectivity the computer will default and indicate 10 deg C or a very negative reading if it has gone high resistance or again a very high temp 53 deg C if it has gone low resistance at normal UK temp say 10 deg C it should be about 60000 ohms , The most likely cause of an inaccurate display is a corroded connector as it is located upfront down on the subframe below the radiator grille However these sensors ( thermistors ) do fail quite regularly , There are a number advertised on the internet from anywhere from about £15 to £30 but beware they are most likely used items and just as likely to be faulty as your own , I bought a thermistor off ebay ( well actually 5 off them for £ 1.60 ) 32 pence each and silicone sealered it inside a small plastic pipe and job done , however you do need to check it has similar temperature / resistance charachteristic as the oem, part incidentaly it does affect the air con system and also the engine water heating boiler if you have a deisel

About one year ago I bought an S type 2.7d v6 , I got it privately for well under trade recommended used car price so I was expecting issues the most serious being the front shocks were completely out of gas ( It had just passed a M.O.T the previous month god knows how as it was apparent to me after driving the car a few hundered yards ) still £100 each for two front shocks was not too bad The other issue was after a few weeks the hand brake stuck on ( very lucky for me in my drive ) with the message park brake fault, to cut a long story short I have fathomed out that this is due to a partly discharged battery , I renewed the battery and it was ok for a couple of months but returned again . I have checked the alternator and with the engine running the voltage comes up to around 14volts so no problems there, I used a hydrometer to check the SG of the battery electrolyte and the last time the fault occurred it was very low I then investigated what the quiescent current was with everything switched off and got a shock it was around 3 amps after several minutes Consulting the s type manual it should be no more than 28 milliamps but read on only after 1 hour, ( In my case the quiescent current was 15milliamps after 1 hour ) as I only do small runs maybe 20 miles at a time and move the car out an in of the garage a lot I have come to the conclusion that I need to charge the battery every 2 weeks or so from the mains and that there is no actual fault with the car Has anbody any idea what system or systems causes the current drain for so long after switch off ? ( i dont want to go pulling fuses to try and find out and the JAG manual does not recommend that either steve