frenchdave

battery was new this time last year, and is acting fine with no issues. starts on the ball no problems. The washers haven't been working for some time, so I purchased a new motor expecting that to be the problem, but no luck. It could be the new motor is duff. Or maybe the wiper stalk is the problem? just cannot explain why there is so much voltage at the motor as soon as you turn on the ignition? I would have expected the motor only to have power to it when the stalk demands it to start working?

i have a 2005 s type 2.7td The washers for the windscreen has stopped working . replaced motor, still nothing. So have checked wiring to the plug on the motor. As soon as the ignition is switched on, I have 11.59 volts to the plug. When the washer stalk in the car is pressed this falls very slightly to 11.3 volts. There is no noise at any time from the motor. New or old. I am surprised to find the plug as power to it all the time, when the ignition is on. Any ideas as what the issue might be? I can hear a click from the relays under the bonnet, and some say that there is a separate relay just for the washers. On early cars I think this is relay 4 under the bonnet, but there isn't one in 4 on a 2005 car. Any ideas please

Thanks Peter I have been towing a car trailer normally towing a mgf combined weight is about 1300kg. It is true to say that the rear of the car sits lower than the front when on level ground, and this is worse with the trailer attached. I move the car as near the centre of the trailer as possible , but I agree that the weight on the towbar may be more than ideal. Will get it on a lift and see if I have a broken spring. Interestingly, today I drove it without the trailer. Vibration is much reduced, and on braking it feels like it is coming from the rear of the gearbox area. May look at UJs on the prop as well?

Also if you brake heavy, you can get rid of the vibration as if it hold in the same place whatever is worn out?

It feels more like the engine mounts. should say that also if you hold the revs steady at say 2000, the car flicks down to 1900 and back again without a change in throttle, but that is not when it has the vibration. I have seen usa owners saying the auto box causes this issue. As it is better when not towing, assume it has worn out some part, but what. If it was just braking it feels just like a warped brake disc.

My car has a tow bar, and has been used for towing heavy trailers. It has developed viration when accelerating, and also on braking. I have chnaged various suspension parts to no avail. Any ideas on what to check on a car that has towed. The rear end looks a little low. Could it be engine mounts? If so how to check? gearbox mounts? strut top bearing? prop shaft? I love the car, but it is driving me mad trying to locate the problem

THANKS I have been offered one at a good price which is EF rather than FF i have access to jaguar diagnostics so may be able to reprogramme it if I have a problem. Thanks all

Question my air con panel in the car has a part number 4R8318C612FF i need a replacement There are plenty on sale on ebay, but the closest in terms of part number is the same but ends EF not FF part looks the same. is there anyone who knows if the parts can be changed over and run the same? Thanks David

only happens when under load going uphill on acceleration or downhill when braking

its a 1600kg max trailer but i only tow 1350kg with a MGf on board Trying to avoid using a dealer hence asking what others may have found out. i have a two post lift, so can get a good look at things. As I say does the s type suffer with engine mounts or strut top mounts going? If so which ones?

I have a 2005 2.7td with 120k miles on it. I have had it for a year, and use it to tow a trailer of 1600kg so it gets a work out. It has developed a shake via the steering on medium to hard acceleration, and also on braking . I have replaced both front wishbones, the bent ones with a large bush at one end, and the track rod ends. I cannot see any other bushes that are worn. I wonder if these cars when used for towing have any ware points? Can engine mounts or gearbox mounts cause this. Could the bushes on the bottom of the shocks at the front cause this? Or the top mounts to the shocks? Any ideas please as this is only getting worse. I don't suspect brake discs as it happens on acceleration and braking. Thoughts??

Just to update. Had a gearbox fault showing at the same time as abs and dsc not working. Plugged in a jaguar lead to the obd2 port, and downloaded free software to my laptop. Lead was £60 It allows you access to full jaguar diagnostics, and the rear right abs sensor was causing the problem. Replaced and after 3oom drive the abs fault and dsc fault disapperaed. Then restarting engine cleared gearbox fault. My car still has the red battery light now on most of the time. When on the computer link showed the alternator pushing out between 13.5 and 13.6 volts, and when the light goes out between 14.2 and 14.4v Clearly the alternator is charging, but I assume outside ecu parameters. It shows Generator field terminal - circuit low P0625-00 PCM Has anyone else seen this and how did you overcome. Car starts and runs fine.

Many thanks all. will look at in the morning may have other questions after

Dear All My 2005 2.7d jag came with a handbook for a 2002 car Could anyone copy me and send a photo of the pages showing which fuses and relays are which. I want to check OB2 fuse and the abs fuses. many thanks Dave

Any thoughts? my latest fault was that when starting the battery light stayed on, and I had a reading with the engine running of 13.41 volts. After a mile of driving the light went out, and I had 14.2 volts on the battery with the engine running. what is going on?