Max Lloyd

The fixings on ebay (screw in type) work very well. Almost all of my headliner was sagging and , when I used the clips and screws fittings the result was very acceptable. They worked well and even look better than the original. Max

Thanks Dave. Just minor work to do now. Head lining, seat belt spring, steering wheel alignment.🙂

I checked the legality of LED LIGHT conversion. According to the articles I read they are illegal on British roads. The police know this but guess what, they don't enforce it. I live near a US airbase and the incidence of driving with left dipping is concerning especially with led lights. I surveyed the vehicles exiting the base last winter and found that , 6 out of 10, had uncorrected left dip lights. So please re consider converting to led's. They can cause temporary blindness. So please don't add this misery to night driving!!!

I have similar problems. I did find that my rear door lock mechanism was stuck. Cleared the fault with a quick spray of thin oil. It was necessary to remove the door panel, which took longer than the remedy. I still have no luck with the remote. Re programmed several times but the locks don't release everything else is ok. I will post if I get any success after checking the other doors. I hear the locks activate but not open. Could be another lock sticking.

Thanks very much for the reply Dave. I can now sleep softly due to the answer you gave. Now I can get on with the restauration work.

Does any get the same as me? My 2002 xj8 executive has a tendency to wobble for want of a better word. At speeds up to 30mph. I get a sideways wobble, the car gently rocks from side to side, when moving up to 30mph. At more speeds the car runs very smoothly. No rocking just the odd bounce over potholes😖. Is this normal? I remember the same used to happen on my mk1 3.4 way back in the late 50's.

Sorry about the name JIM.

Thanks again John. I don't think I have a parasitic discharge, although I don't know how to measure this, but my fault is continuing and I believe it will fail due to this when M.O.T'd. So far I have tried disconnecting battery and shorting the cars earth lead. No difference. I bought a ctek and recharged the battery, again no difference. I haven't tried to give the car a long run, as I believe is necessary after disconnecting the battery , could that be the problem?

Thaanks John. I'm not sure what a Parasitic discharge is exactly. Am I right in thinking it is the green corrosion fond on battery terminals? Thank you very much for answering my query. I have just recharged my battery, which is about 2 years old and cleaned the terminals. I'm now looking into the CTEK charger/re-conditioner.

I'm having similar problems with my xj8. I get Low coolant, low oil pressure, and no reading on fuel gauge, on my instrument cluster. I've tried all sorts of ways to clear the faults as I know that they are false reports there's nothing actually wrong with any of them. If you get any info I'd appreciate a heads up. Thanks

I also can't find a corresponding plug for the socket in my attachment. It hangs down under the steering column. I think it may be the socket for the scrolling warnings Oil pressure low, Coolant low and fuel gauge

I can't find your attachment now????/🤔

Its me again. I found out that the module I found lying under my seat is a rain sensor module. So that's cleared that little mystery. The next mystery is; where can I find the module enclosure. The manual says that it is in the engine compartment control module enclosure. Problem; where exactly is the module enclosure. Anybody know? TEN POINTS IF YOU DO.😐

Can anyone identify this jaguar part. I found it under my seat after the mobile mechanic had finished and gone home.

Can anyone give advice on how to replace the drive belt on 2002 xj8? the original one snapped when the generator seized. I followed the instructions from the manual but the centre bolt, which was left hand thread, snapped under the pressure of the spanner I was using ( the recommended one in the manual). I managed to get a spare for the bolt but I am afraid that the tension produced when trying to fit the new belt will snap the mounting bolt again. The method described in the manual on the 2002 model doesn't make sense as the fulcrum is on the load point which is the head of the nut. The later models were fitted with a different type of tensioner. I would be very grateful if any correspondence regarding this could be emailed to me. at max.lloyd@aol.co.uk

A while ago I thought I would have to scrap my lovely xj8 because of a mysterious fault. I had no power to the emc, or lots of other areas of the car. I was getting scrolling of all the fault warnings you could imagine. I had contacted lots of auto electricians, most of whom were not helpful at all. Then, by chance a friend I was visiting in Ipswich told me about his electrical problems and the electrician he knew who solved his problems. The end of this story is a happy one. After searching the car for 2.5 hrs he found what he was looking for. The inertia switch. Jaguar, in their wisdom had hidden it in the side kick panel at the top of the o/s foot well. It took about 2 seconds to reach and, with a quick press, the fault was cleared and the engine fired. so if you have to raise you xj8 high enough to work underneath, be very gentle with how your lower it down. Do it slowly and as smoothly as you can. It was this that caused the inertia switch to trip and nearly a year of intensive investigation, on my part, and many hours following workshop manual diagrams, later I still had to call in an expert.

Yes John your right. I plan to raise the subject as soon as I can. Right now I'm up to my ears in too many other things my restoration work is progressing quite well but as soon as it's done that will be top of the list.

Can anybody tell me how the key chip or security module works? I've just got my new key which was copied from a photo. when it arrived it was cut ok but no chip. I got a new chip and put it into the key so it should work. What I need to know is; does the security module send a code to the key chip, or does the key chip send to the module. As the key was ok for fitting in the loch and ignition I would imagine that the chip sends a code to the module. Is that correct? Gone are the days when you could get replacement ignition keys off the shelf. I remember when I had my first Jag, a 3.4 mk1 1957 vintage I needed a spare and bought it from a bicycle shop.

I worked on base for 10 years and tried reporting to base police who, more or less, told me to do as you said. Eventually I tried to contact the base comander, just when there was a change of command. I'm going to try again.

I would like to put my 2 pence worth in regarding dazzle of these super bright bulbs. I live quite close to two American Air bases which, unfortunately, do occasionally have there U.S. cars sent over here. When night driving past the bases there are a lot of on coming road users that, obviously, haven't had their head lights re aligned for right side driving. I know that they are instructed to have the lights done and many do, but there are still lots of their cars that haven't been dip left changed.

I HOPE THE COUNCIL RE-EMBERSED YOU.

HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. I'VE JUST COMPLETED A PARCIAL RENOVATION. I'M LEFT WITH A NONE START FAULT (SEEMS TO BE THE SECURITY SYSTEM) AND ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS SCROLLING. PN ADDITION MY KEY FOB WON'T REPROGRAMME WHICH MEANS THAT I CAN'T GET THE SEC. SYSTEM TO RESET.I'VE CHECKED THE BATTERY AND CHECKED FOR SHORTS AND OPEN CIRCUITS REMOVED AND CLEANED SEC. MODULE, KEY TRANSPONDER MODULE. THE CAR IS STILL STANDING. IF I GET ANYWHERE I WILL LET YOU KNOW. PLEASE DO THE SAME FOR ME IF YOU SUCCEED. I CAN'T GET LOCAL GARAGES TO EVEN TRY. I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST WITH YOUR PROBLEM AND HAVE A GREAT NEW YEAR.

Hi all My restoration is almost ready for MOT and resuming daily use. The only thing is that , after two years of repairs, rust treatment and re spraying, I appear to have hit a major problem. I can't reset the alarm and, as expected, the alarm having been activated, keeps the system alarmed. Does any body know how to re-programme the key fob with an activated alarm? The alarm maintains a 12v feed which bypasses the ignition switch which means that 12v is present even when the key is not in. Theoretically this is needed to maintain part of the system so that the alarm sounds and the lights flash without providing power to start. I thought of replacing the alarm module but at over £200.00 I want to be sure that the problem is in the original unit. Any ideas please. The alternative might be too much to bear after all the hard work I've put in.