Mick the hat

Thanks for the confirmation Julian. I'll have a go at both the bypass link and the tailgate glass switch and let you know how it works out. Also, if anyone does know how to extract the rear door lock safely, I would still like to know, as I would prefer everything to be working properly as it should. It is an old car and has 132k on the clock but having recently forked out £1200 for a new DMF/ clutch assembly and £180 for a custom exhaust part ( discontinued, thank you Jaguar!) I would like to get reasonable use out of it.

I have a 2007 X Type 2.2d SE Estate (manual). The car has developed an ajar alarm from the rear drivers side door, despite the door being firmly shut. This has resulted in the alarm going off at very awkward times of the day - and more especially - at night. It was only when I sat in the car with the doors closed that I saw the message on the dash saying it was open when the ignition was switched on. I looked on this and other Jaguar forums and found that the alarm switch is integral to the door lock and "cannot" be fixed independently. (That answers the question posed by Blueice!). I removed the door card and the foam liner, undid the bolts holding the switch to the door, removed the linking bar to the internal door handle and tried to remove the switch assembly. I have quite large hands and could only just get in to hold the switch and pull. That was when I discovered there is another rod connected to the top of the switch which I couldn't get to, therefore I couldn't extract the switch, so I gave up and put it all back together. So, looking at this post, specifically Coastriders entry, I am wondering - as the door ajar alarms are all connected in series - if I were to put a link between terminals 15 & 18 of relay CA87 in the GEC module, that would dupe the system into seeing a "closed circuit"? If so, this would have the effect of not having to go to the expense of replacing the faulty door switch mechanism whilst retaining the "locked and alarmed" state for the remainder of the car when activated, ignoring the rear driver's door. Any thoughts on this suggestion? Anyone know how to remove that top connecting rod from the door switch? Also, I am now suffering from the tailgate glass intermittently opening / closing / locking when it feels like it. I think, from reading other comments, that if I'm lucky, WD40 might cure it or remove and clean the switch assembly on the glass itself. Thanks to COVID19, I have plenty of time on my hands. P.S. As it was suggested that these cars have voltage sensitive systems, I renewed the battery as a means of ruling that possibility out. (It was 6 years old, so might have needed it anyway) It made no difference but at least it is ruled out as a possible cause.