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Chris Hawley

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Chris Hawley last won the day on January 31 2023

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  • First Name
    Chris
  • Jaguar Model
    XJ
  • Year of Jaguar
    1971
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hertfordshire

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  1. Must have been done a zillion times before, but......... Rear subframe removed from my XJ6S1 - mainly to fit an alternative diff and deal with seized brakes. But, anticipating reassembly, I don't see how the calipers are refitted. In particular the lower mounting bolt. How does one get the bolt tightened up and fit locking wire in such a confined space? The ops manual doen't seem to spell this out but as far as I can see ready access to the lower bolt is only achievable with the tie plate and fulcrum bracket removed. Am I missing the obvious? Any tips or 'how tos' would be much appreciated.
  2. XJ6 S1, 4.2. Leaving aside engine issues for now. I know that the steering rack leaks badly. While I'm sorting out a way to get the original rack repaired/reconditioned I was wondering if I could use a rack from something else to keep the vehicle moveable. Would an S3 rack, or even an XJS one, be a possible fit. Would only be a short term expedient so don't want to get involved in an modifications. Any advice or tips would be most welcome.
  3. No change really, still returning about 40 - 60.
  4. Good pointers, thanks. Will be a few days before I'm working on this one again - but plenty to explore. Gets me thinking though whether I can even trust the timing marks on the pulley. So better confirm that as well.
  5. That's a fair point. Few component on this car may have escaped the effects of long term standing. Set up is: 3.4 8L engine, 45D6 distributor on conventional points, HIF7 carbs with AED converted to manual operation. Timing was a 20 degrees ATDC so that's been pulled round to 10 BTDC (roughly, on static adjustment). Spark at plugs is confirmed using a Sparkrite plug tester. But what I oberserve is that rather than one clean, birght, spark every two revolutions it's showing one main spark followed by 3 or 4 faint afterflashes. I don't understand that. The float chamber on the AED can be observed to be filling (lid off). But guess carbs will have to come off for a close inspection and assessment. The general dilemma is how much time to spend (?waste) trying to coax this engine back into a zombie like state of running given that it seems that head removal is inevitable in any case. No firm answer to that I guess: But my inclination that an engine at least fires up and runs (somewhat) is a better prospect for repair than one that won't. All opinions greatefully recieved!
  6. Outcome not good. Despite ATF and suchlike down the bores compression still zero on two cylinders. WIth cam covers off all valves can be seen to be moving freely and valve clearance are all reasonable at around 14 - 16 ish. In hope rather than expectation I thought I'd see if the engine could be persuaded to fire up. Spark present, fuel present, but not a sausage. But that's a bit by the by. Would I be right in thinking that 'head-off' is now unavoidable? But would there be any merit on doing a leak down test prior to that? And what are the most likely candidates for a 'no compression' situation? Exhaust valves, gasket, bores/rings? Given that I know this engine has been subject to neglect, abuse and then more neglect I'm picturing a chamber of horrors when opened up.
  7. Interesting. Plugs are out, no fuel in system and, yes, foot on accelerator pedal. I'll certainly try the approaches as suggested above later this week. An extra snippet is that the engine had had its bores long term soaked with CocaCola (not by me). Anyhow, I'll proceed as above. Thanks
  8. New to this forum so please excuse if I'm not familiar with all the etiquette as yet. Situation is: 3.4 XK engine last run about 10 years ago. Engine was in satisfactory running condition when last used. Doing a compression test cold, I'm getting 40 - 60 psi on four cylinders and absolutely zilch on the other two. Might there be any suggestions for a logical way to proceed with investigation? Not too worried about details at this stage, more just a general approach. For example, might a reasonable first step be to remove the cam covers and have a look at the valve train? Any suggestions much appreciated.
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