kcey

take the air filter top off disconnect the maf loosen the clip on the intake pipe undo the screws on engine cover the intake manifold is held in place by i think 10mm bolts two of which are longer (6 of) undo them pull the manifold to passenger side there is a breather pipe to disconnect then undo the coil bolts one by one disconnecting the lead as you go

try checking the servo vacum hose connections and see if its had the bypass if its got the vacum pump on

here is what i have found out,...my solus pro can't read the abs which means i can't find out which sensor it is on my brakes but i can eobd read the engine for codes .............. that group of digits is a comunication error because the scanner can't read the system

i have a feeling the misfire may be setting off the knock sensor and then the car goes into limp mode i've just found out the plugs in the jag are long life plugs chances are they have never been changed and at £6 each it doesn't suprise me ...they should be changed at about 75k miles but also the coil packs are prone to fail when hot/warm/damp and then seem ok again

the egr being stuck wouldn't put her into limp mode by itself would just chuck out lots of black smoke(soot) and run bad all the time

disconnecting the battery (or changing it) clears any code either on or pending it takes a while before the pcm decides if/or there is a problem needing to be coded...do you have an abs problem and/or when it happens does your speedo needle drop to a lower speed than you are traveling ...mine did today which is making me think speed sensor/wheel bearing one of mine is starting to make a noise and my abs doesn't work at all

3-4 miles from home and manual

strange that i have exactly the same problem but mine's a 2.5 v petrol if you find out anything let me know and i'll do the same i'm thinking it sounds like a esc issue

and after several trips out in the car most over 50 miles the light stays on and still only p1000 ???? any ideas?

p1000 will bring the light on its the only code that is on mine and my light is on

i did use them on a fwd car i had and yes they worked (this year on a scenic ) on icy roads it felt much safer and made wheelspin from junctions a thing of the past .... i had never used them before this i've owned 4wd cars and landrovers (still own my first a sierra xr4x4) for quite a few years and although i've had mishaps tyres of the winter sort wouldn't have made much if any difference

almost 2 years to late i could almost be 100% its a wheel front bearing common fault and a bit of a pain to change be carefull of the abs sensor if splitting the hub from the strut ...i don't i take the whole strut and hub off the car and press the bearing out

hi just to give another view on winter tyres...as the name states winter tyres not snow tyres are made from a different compound to "normal" tyres that don't go as hard in colder weather like normal tyres do therefore reducing the risk of sliding/skiding in cold conditions meaning it doesn't have to be snowing for them to be used just cold ....one disadvantage of this compound is they are softer so therefore wear more quickly i would also advise to use a branded make of tyre as some of the none branded companies just use tread patterns and not a different compound

Consett in County Durham

thank you all for the welcome gave her a 200 mile run out and all seems fine bar the engine light being on code p1000 not all monitor checks complete and no abs light has been taped over go figure ...as long as the brakes are ok which they seem to be im fine with that (not a fan of abs) had the car up on ramps at work and she's clean very very clean