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Russ68

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Posts posted by Russ68

  1. Hi Dominic,

    I had both sills done on mine a few years ago, with a few other bits, for a fraction of that price. £5-600 from memory, inc the price of the sills which are ~£100. 

    So I'm sure you're aware you're paying top dollar and possible more than the current market value of the car. If you're going into this with your eyes open, the choice is yours.

    At £80ph, that's over 30 hours to make £2600, which seems a bit excessive. But perhaps yours in in a particularly bad way underneath?

    Good luck!

     

     

  2. I'm not saying you're wrong, DVLA has her listed as normal and a 51 reg car made in 02 is way after the early models, so not pre prototype for that reason. Unless she was an early one to have the 4.2?

    image.thumb.png.ea8fd9e4b67e10cc76f5f834b2a8afca.png

    Your V5 doc lists the type approval number. You could check this, if it's type approved, it's unlikely to be anything weird I suspect.

    https://www.jaguarheritage.com/archive-services/certificates/ Finally, check your number with Jaguar Heritage, they'd pick up if there was anything unusual I'd imagine 😉 

  3. Yup, engine out as the chain is at the rear. A very involved job! 

    But forewarned is forearmed, it would need to be a giveaway price to take one on with a known chain issue, and I'm not looking for another project so that's not happening! Also, chains have been upgraded since 2019, 4 years ago, which you'd imagine has weeded out many of those that are going to have issues.

    As background I've owned 1996 MGF, (so early K-Series with the plastic guides), since 2003. I dropped in (or rather dropped the body over!) a later 2001 engine and have had no issues with it since then. So a known a doesn't necessarily kill a car completely 😉

    Well done on the XE S ownership, you're a lucky man! A post April 2017 S would be ideal for the cheaper tax, but I'd have to significantly stretch my budget based on the prices I'm seeing. The V6 seems to have reviewed better than the 4 pot petrol, but I'd love either one, of any age TBH!  🙂

     

  4. Yup, I've just read up further and the chain and guide materials used in the pre 2019 diesel Ingenium diesels  are at fault.

    TBH, I'm still not phased by this. I'm an experienced mechanic and would be surprised not to detect any issues in advance. The actual parts for the upgraded chain and guides are only ~£300, and a weekend's work for me to complete the work.

    Were I to take a punt on the diesel model without a retro fitted timing chain upgrade, it's something I could factor in doing at some point.

    Although I've also been looking at the XE S with the supercharged V6, that looks like a helluva car! 

     

     

  5. Yup, it appears that poorly serviced early diesels can have problems with the timing chains at the rear of the engine. But it's far from a universal issue, and forewarned is forearmed, I'll know to check for it.

    I've refined my wishlist down to a £30 tax D180 model I can remap to ~230bhp, which should give similar performance to my manual S-Type but at a fraction of the running costs. Or ideally the P300 (or P250) petrol variant, with £180 tax (after premium tax is finished), cheaper running costs and better performance than the S-Type.

    I've driven a remapped 180 with the 8 speed auto and it's a very competent car. But I didn't love it, 'goes like a sports car, sounds like a Transit!' springs to mind 😆

     

  6. Hi there,

    I’m in the market (<£10K) for a new (to me) Jag with (occasional) use rear seats and an early R-Sport seems a compelling proposition.

    After running a 3.0 Sport S-Type manual and considering XKR/XFR, the tax and running costs seem very reasonable and performance ok for a 180bhp 1500kg car.

    I’d be tempted to go do a remap and immediately go for premium tyres and new brakes unless these are 100%.

    Any thoughts/comments on remapping? I’ve seen 210 and close to 500NM from Celtic, and 234 and  509 from TDI which seems worthwhile. 

    All of my performance cars have been petrol and I generally go for a stainless exhaust and look at induction to unlock gains. Is this still the case with the 2.0 R-Sport? 
     

    I’ve driven plenty of diesels, but I’ve never needed or wanted to modify one. So this is a bit new to me 😉

    Thanks in advance! 

     

  7. Just to wrap this up. Simon was right. I inspected a fine XKR yesterday and did the test, the rear seats are indeed impossible! Headroom more than legroom. Shame as the car was great! For anyone who is in the market; Paul in Weybridge has the cheapest X150 on eBay that needs a good home. So now I’m looking at the XE R-Sport which appear a compelling proposition if it has to be a (<£10K) Jag with rear seats 😉

  8. Thanks Alfie, it may come to that! I've been thinking the XFR is where I may need to be, reviews and road tests really rate  the beast! Interestingly, it's the Mrs pushing the XK, she has exquisite taste, and has rightly noticed the XKR/XR8 is stunningly beautiful piece of automotive art, whereas the XFR..... isn't!

    Second car is a moot point, I have an S-Type, MGF and Discovery all needing work! Luckily I have space to put them. An option which has just occurred to me is an XK8/XKR at the lower end of my budget, leaving £££ for an XFS as a daily driver which can transport my dear old Mum to the pub for Sunday lunch 🤔

    Can anyone recommend any good multi car insurers? 😆

  9. I'm in the market for a new (to me) Jag, I really wanted an XKR, but occasionally needing to take out more than 1 adult out might be a dealbreaker :sad: My budget dictates early models of either vehicle 😉 

    So I've been researching with interest my XF options, and the 5.0 XFR seems to be absolutely fantastic! Even Clarkson liked it and he hated the S-Type! I'm coming round to the idea that I need to own one just for the experience! Even if I then pass it on and 'settle' for an XFS which appears to be 1/2 the tax, 1/2 fuel, more torque and TBH, more than adequate performance.

    If the owners of either XFR or XFS were able to give their thoughts and comments I'd really appreciate it. My head is saying I'm mad for considering XFR when the XFS is almost as good, but what petrolhead wouldn't want to own the XFR £70K rocketship!

    I've also seen there is an early 4.2 XF SV8, are these worth considering too, or in for a penny, in for a 5.0 £ 😆

     

     

     

  10. Hi there,

    I'm about to realise an ambition to finally buy an X150, at the moment it's in the balance between an early XK8/XKR but that's another matter!

    What will be a dealbreaker is if the following scenario won't work:

    1) I pick up my dear old 5'1", 78 year old Mum, who clearly gets dibs on the front seat, but with the seat as far forward as possible without crushing her against the dash! 🥰

    2) My 5'7" wife then is then able to sit in the back, short journeys only, minor to serious discomfort expected 😆

    All I've heard about the rear seats is they are pretty useless for an adult. But with the front far forward, and for a short journey, surely this is doable?

    Please reassure me if you can! I'm hoping to nip to the local JEC meet in a week or so, hopefully there will be an X150 with a willing owner there to let us see just how bad it will be!

    Thanks in advance, Russ

  11. 14 minutes ago, LairdScooby said:

    Mine are still on the to-do list Russ, the intention was get it through the MoT and then get them.

    However i misread the date on the MoT, i thought it said 23/3/23 but it actually said 23/2/23, think you can see how i made the mistake!

    In between whiles i picked up two punctures which involved replacement tyres and then i wasn't able to swap the wheels around (i'm not in great health so sometimes a bit tricky) and by the time i realised the MoT was late and i'd got the tyres swapped, the battery was flat. Caalogue of errors you might say!

    Anyway, in other news, i've also been looking for a replacement for my Volvo 760, ideally a Honda CR-V, preferably the Executive with the leather, AC etc and if i was really lucky, in silver. Been trawling ebay, Autotrader and so on to no avail, found several but then discovered there was a reason not to buy them (usually rough MoT history, Cat N/S or similar) so was really waiting until next month and was planning on getting the Jag in for MoT soon.

    Quite by chance and on a hunch, i went into a local, relatively new, car dealer as i thought i'd spotted a few CR-Vs in there. Knowing they also rent to USAF personnel, i didn'y have my hopes too high but i had spotted two silver ones, side by side, one at least was for sale but the other one had really caught my eye. Odd as they were both the same colour (silver) and from a distance, looked identical.

    The second one didn't have a price on the screen but the one i wasn't interested in did for £3495. I asked about the other, new MoT screen price will be £2795 but " probaby let it go for two".

    Long story short, i said i was hoping to do a PX and roughly the deal i was after and also that i'm waiting on a pension lump sum next month on or just after my brithday.  A deal was struck, subject to test drive, of £1200 + the Volvo. He warned me of a couple of dodgy ball joints that were an advisory on the recent MoT (i've since checked and they were the only advisory) and it might be a bit clonky but they would be done. and away we went.

    All was good so hands were shaken then this morning i had a couple of texts from him basically offering to do the swap and settle up the cash next month when my funds arrive. This has obviously made me short on time, the Volvo has aftermarket cruise control that i want to use on the Honda (for some odd reason it doesn't have it) and also need my dashcam out of the Volvo.

    Once i've got the Honda and the dust settles i'll be able to get the Jag for MoT then look at getting the LED bulbs for the Jag! Bit of a "round the houses" explanation there but hopefully (at least slightly) intersting!

    Indeed quite interesting! Sorry to hear about your health issues. Like me you're not a Jag only guy, I have a couple of Discoveries (mainly the wife's), and an MGF I've had for 20 years. I'd argue the S-Type was my favourite, I just need to get it back on the road and I'd like it a lot more! Hopefully yours will sail through the MOT and be useable again very soon, they don't seem to like being stood!

    For interest, I had a top notch automotive electrician have a look at the Jag and our Disco TD5 which were both discharging batteries. Turns out the Jag was basically OK, but it has a very long shut down procedure which means it's still drawing 2A 30 mins after you've turned it all off! Interesting, but probably not why yours ran flat:

    image.thumb.png.0e10169eb65b38595afeb843f9aeb47d.png

    The Disco was not so good with issues with the towing module and air compressor destroying the relatively new battery. Apparently any aftermarket additions are the 1st place he looks for unwanted current draw killing batteries. Along with the obvious, interior lights and other kit left on etc 😉 

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  12. 51 minutes ago, LairdScooby said:

    My current LED bulbs are 6000K Russ as they are very close to natural daylight in colour temperature. Makes night driving much more relaxing and less eye strain. I'll certainly go for the same again!

    As you say, the ones with the blue tinge don't really look that good, on a Jag or anywhere else come to that! 😮

    I find the 3000K or halogen colour temperature lacking in many areas, particularly during rain and dusk with all lights. One benefit of the LED bulbs, certainly with 6000K is that they tend to make animals eyes reflect light back so if there's a deer/rabbit/fox on the verge of the rural road you're traceling along, you actually get to see them so you can avoid them.

    Got it! In that case I'll go for 6000K too Dave, makes sense. I know I selected 3000K for some kitchen downlights recently, but that's a slightly different application 😆

    Have you fitted them yet or still on the to do list? It seems like Chris is getting on very well with his, so I hope they'll bring our S-Types up to modern standards, which is very much needed! 

    • Like 1
  13. 1 hour ago, LairdScooby said:

    These are the ones i was originally planning on getting Russ :

    https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/led-headlight-conversion-bulbs-h7-4600-lumen-philips-z-es-main-dipped-glb477?_pos=6&_sid=9012460b2&_ss=r

    Not polarity conscious so no problems on the S Type, reversible heatsink collar so will fit inside the cover and 4600Lm per pair/2300 each - the Twenty20 doesn't specify if the 400Lm is per bulb or per pair but i would suspect per pair.

    https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/pair-of-led-headlight-conversion-bulbs-hb3-hb4-4600-lumen-main-dipped-p20d-p22d?_pos=1&_psq=hb3+led&_ss=e&_v=1.0

    The HB3 version for the inner main beams ^^^^^ similar spec in terms of not polarity conscious, reversible heatsink and 4600Lm/pair but obviously different fittings for the actual physical parts. Should fit in with the heatsink reversed.

    I've used that supplier for amny years now and recommended them to many, only had to use their refund service once and that was on something experimental so nothing to do with the products bought except too many were bought!

    I'm also a bit of a fan of the Z-ES Lumileds, those aren't specified on the Twenty20 bulbs so i might go with what i know, especially as they're a smidge cheaper!

    Fab! Thanks for that Dave. I like you get options for 3000K and 6000K with this brand, the 3000K much closer to halogen in colour. Would a 3000K Bulb be as effective as the 6000K and is this what you will go for / have gone for?

    I know the 6000K is white rather than those boy racer blue ones you used to see, these are probably up around the 9000K mark and  have no place in a Jaguar 😉 

    • Like 1
  14. Thanks so much to Chris and Dave for doing the legwork on this issue 👍

    It look to me like the H7 twenty20 Compact is a direct fit for my 2001 as well, and while £50 for a pair of bulbs seems pricy, this is only compared to halogens, and if it's a direct fit from a tried supplier, it's cheap at half the price!

    They also show an H7 twenty20 precision option which is fan cooled and currently on offer. At 3600 lumen they actually produce less than the 4000 lumen Compact, so generally the Compact is the better choice right?

    https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/h7-twenty20-precision-led-12v-477-headlight-bulbs-pair.html

    They list an H3 Twenty20 compact for my main beam too, along with a pricier Osram LED version. I'd be tempted to stick with the Twenty20s if these have proven good upgrades.

    I'm glad I deferred sorting this out as the tech seems to have caught up with what I need. I can now get upgraded lighting without a ton of rewiring or exchanging headlamp units. Given the amount of work I want to do on the car, this is great for me! 😀

     

    • Like 2
  15. Rear sensors were an option on the X200, I have them on mine. So it may be worth looking how Jag did it, there might even be wiring and suchlike you can pick up on. Not sure about the fronts though, as I think front sensors were only options on the later, facelift models 😉 

    • Like 1
  16. On 1/27/2023 at 10:20 AM, LairdScooby said:

    Is the mangled, rusted wheel nut rusted onto the stud? If so, try mixing a 50/50 mix of Carlube ATF-U/acetone (nail varnish remover), shake it up then brush/dribble/spray it on and let it soak. I call it WMP - Weapon of Mass Penetration and since i started using it, haven't found a fastener that isn't removed using it. Once mixed, it needs a good shake and another good shake before each use and sealing between uses or the acetone evaporates. If you can't get hold of ATF-U then NAPA MVA works just as well. I daresay any other synthetic ATF with a viscosity of ~32 would also work, maybe even a thinner one like Dexron 6 would work better but i haven't tried it.

     

    Hey Dave,

    Thanks for the advice re the wheel nut, it's mega mangled so may be beyond this type of help, but I'll give it a go, sounds like a clever use of chemistry 👍

    Yup, it had to be a Sport manual for me, they are rarer, but in 2015 when I bought her, there were still a few about. Now I have 2 with my manual SE donor as well 🙂 

    The MGF is great, but not a patch on the Jag for build or execution, I've had it since 2003. It will be fab when I have them both back on the road again.

    Cheers 😉 

    • Like 1
  17. 12 hours ago, LairdScooby said:

    It sounds like you have good plans for your S-Type Russ, good idea concentrating on getting the important bits running and worry about the power later. I'm still learning how mine drives, where to position my right foot for the best acceleration so it keeps within the VVT power band with each shift and so on. In nearly 40 years of (legal) driving, until recently there was only one car that always put a grin on my face from driving it, that was my 827 Sterling, this S-Type is the second. I hope your recommissioing project gives you as much pleasure when it comes to fruition! 😉 😄

    Thanks Dave, I also have a headlining to replace and a rusted and mangled wheel nut to remove and a couple of panels to respray. Hopefully all doable 🤞 I've secured a complete donor car, an X200 manual SE, mine is a sport, which should help keeping her on the road long term.

    I've had a few cars that give me that grin you mention, including my MGF which I still own, but my 3.0 S-Type with the manual gearbox exceeded my expectations, which were quite high in the first place! Grace, space and pace indeed 😁

    • Like 1
  18. 20 minutes ago, LairdScooby said:

    I have to agree there Russ, the Mazda version is ~205bhp, Fords version ~225bhp and Jaguar tweaked it somewhat more to get the 240bhp. As you suggest, not much room for easy power gains. There may be some to be had from using 98 octane or a very simple water injection system if - and it's a big "if" - the Visteon engine management advances the ignition timing and then retards a little when it detects knock like the Honda PGM-Fi system does. If it sets the timing at a standard figure and only retards it by a few degrees when it detects knock then after a given period without knock, reverts to standard like the older Bosch LH-Jetronic and Motronic then the water injection wouldn't help to boost power.

    I have a feeling it is the former as mine is converted to LPG (which is ~105RON) and mine tends to go better on gas than petrol, like my 827 Coupe did (i converted that one, never got round to doing the Sterling) because the Rover used the Hodna engine and PGM-Fi system.

    Thanks to a failed CPU fan on my old PC, i lost all the useful documentation i had on water injection but it was a very simple system, essentially using a hypodermic needle as the measuring jet with a small bore hose into a water reservoir and the needle is inserted into a ported vacuum hose, in simple terms functioning as a crude main jet from a carburettor in days of old.

    However, i still have a functional system on the Rover which i can probably transfer to the S Type to try it if nothing else.

    Your idea for grafting the STR air scoop in should work, it should pick up air from the radiator grille area so should be cooler than engine bay air and you may even get a bit of "ram effect" at high speed - probably negligible in terms of power gain though.

    Interesting that Dave! From what I know about water injection, I thought it was mainly to stop pre-ignition in high compression and forced induction engines. But you think it may be a benefit to a normally aspirated S-Type?

    I think the Rocketeer guys who are dropping the Jag AJ-V6 into Maxda MX5s are claiming ~255bhp mainly from improvements to the inlet manifold (they have 2 low profile ones for the conversion). So with this in mind I have secured a couple of spare manifolds and want to have a look at cleaning up the castings and ensuring  it's all as good as can be. Plush an external polish for a bit of engine bay bling!

    I had bigger plans in the early days of my S-Type ownership and considered such craziness as NO2 and turbo charging. But now I just want to get her back on the road in a relatively stock form. Excepting the manifold work, Adamesh pipes and STR induction I mentioned before. I also have the rare 275/35/18 rear wheels from an STR which fill out the rear arches beautifully!

    I also undertake any servicing and repair using high quality OEM parts. Gone are the days where I may have thought that an amateur fettler such as myself could really improve on Jaguar engineering. Rather I want to ensure she's running as well as designed, with a little bit of help here and there to make her as dynamic as possible and best suited to my needs 🙂 

     

    • Like 1
  19. 5 hours ago, LairdScooby said:

    Sometimes you can't improve on what the manufacturer has done Russ, especially with either variable length intake runners or variable valve timing. On my other beast that i'm still trying to decide whether to sell or restore, it has variable length intakes and a strange looking air intake system that not only takes air from the inside of the wing but also has a resonator box there. Many people junked the OE air filter housing and this resonator arrangement and stuffed a big cone type air filter with a cold air feed in place of it. Then they wondered why it was noisy, gutless and thirsty.

    They were losing all the pulse tuning advantages designed in originally.

    I'm not saying your ideas won't work, just that you may have to be prepared to rethink at some point. Perhaps an alternative form of air intake cooling would be a better option?

    You may be right Dave, with 240bph, the 3.0 has an excellent output  and was pretty well thought out before leaving the factory. They're aren't a lot of 'low hanging fruit' in regards easy gains for power or efficiency (if I've overlooked any, please let me know! 😆).

    But I thought the Jag designed STR intake, which is a fab looking scoop affair made for 400bhp in this car, would likely draw more air than the standard 3.0 rather convoluted system, here's a pic of it: 2006 S-TYPE R Engine pic.jpg

    If I can't marry this up or getting running smoothly it will be easy to revert to the standard intake. I bought it from a breaker for not a great deal of money, so it's worth a try IMHO. Nothing ventured nothing gained etc.

    BTW, we had a discussion about just this on this forum in 2016, I can probably dig out a link or it's easy to find should anyone be interested 😉 

     

    • Like 1
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