Borg Warner

Sorry just logged in again. Now all fixed and working a treat. Thanks for the offer though; appreciated.

Thanks for the link.

The plot thickens. I agreed with the specialist to send the unit off to be refurbed, thought I'd give it a go, that was some 4 weeks ago. Chased them a couple of weeks back and was told the the refurbers are very busy? Tried again today and apparently the unit is possibly beyond repair and a used one is/could be the only option. Now this is where it gets confusing. I took the car to them, they kept it for the day as they said it was tricky to remove the module and they also said they'd removed the ECU(?), but I drove it back home??? The only part I can see missing is the PB module in the boot on the off side. Car drove fine apart from the warning beep and the dash flashing re the PB and foot brake. Is there anything else associated with the PB module? Tonight I've messaged SNG Barratts in Bridgnorth Shropshire with regards to a new module, apparently obtainable on special order - whatever that means. https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK/parts/8055117c-ebcd-4be4-b3ab-fe4a7ffb9c85?fromList=Search for `park brake module` Rimmers are also showing them but different part number and for Land Rover Defenders - are they the same? I'm led to believe its the same set up on Range Rover Sports???? Am I being given the run around here? Is it simply a case of a replacement, new or second hand, and plugging it in? I don't want to scrap it, besides I'll get nothing for it and it's far too good to be broken (70k and a good service history). I'd at least like to p/ex it as a runner. Beside what would I replace it with - a BMW????? Thoughts would be appreciated folks.

Well it's been into a Jag specialist and the quote is just shy of £900 to repair it. When I add that to the couple of other issues it has it's destined for the scrap yard I'm saddened to say. Oh well, tick it off my childhood dreams; I owned a Jaguar.

Sorry to hijack an older thread. I've have a problem with the EPB again. This time it is sticking on with the message on the dash saying EPB fault. I've disconnected the battery (which is only 6 weeks old and recently on trickle charge so is healthy). The module and motor were both replaced last year, so are only 18 months old. After disconnecting the battery I can get it to reset and I can hear the motor operating until it fails. There are no error messages on my generic code reader to give me any clues. I can get it recovered to a local specialist but was wondering is it worth changing the module for a new one, thing is does it need to be keyed into the car? Thanks in anticipation.

Just had it MOT'd and apparently both rear track arm dust covers are severely deteriorated and that the bushing will soon be affected. I'm told that the whole arm has to be replaced and not just the bushings, now if it's just the covers that may be a lot less. However is it correct, can the bushings not be replaced? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply Jim, I'll see what the garage have to say.

Got the dreaded warning lights for the second time in two weeks. The scenario for both tines was the same, running for a few minutes/ short journey had the demist screen on/AC/rear screen/lights so a fair amount of load. After the first time I managed to reset it and checked the battery voltage when running and it was around 15.6v, seems a little high? Had it autumn time last year and replaced the battery so it's relatively new, plus it's on trickle charge as not used a great deal. I've had it checked at a local specialist and the list of faults was long and painful, apart from it was saying CanBus error? Garage reckons it could either be a "glitch" or a problem with the wiring somewhere???? It now will not even turn over, I've disconnected the battery for around an hour but still no joy. It's booked into the specialist for Wednesday, providing the AA will pop round and get it there. Now, before I spend a small fortune on it chasing none existing electrical gremlins, is it worth replacing said nearly new battery and keeping it on trickle charge? Once I get it moving of course. Oh the joys

Hi everyone long time no post, too busy enjoying the car and planning retirement. Anyway spotted a nice looking 4ltr S-Type (well aren't all S-Types nice?) not too far away and not too expensive. Less miles than my 3ltr but it is older on a T plate. Not bothered as such, but it does sort of seem I'm going backwards. I'm not doing many miles in it now, around 3k a year so running costs aren't an issue, besides would like to think almost pennies to swap. If the figures add up should I? I've just covered almost 900miles in mine going to Wolves, Lands End the home, averaged 32 to the gallon and it was like sitting in an arm chair. Actually it was a lot better than the armchair. I'm aware of the issues around the early 4ltrs, but would think these would have been sorted by now. I do love it, would I love the 4ltr as much???? Oh decisions, decisions. Anyway hope folks are all ok. Gary M

Well picked it up from the garage and they can't find anything wrong. Seriously. It's been running quite happily with A/C on and off, up high on low, working perfectly. Think they may be pulling the wool over my eyes to be honest. There's no way it would be working normally with the amount of oil on the drive as well as the noise it was making. Hey ho as they say.

On behalf of a work colleague. His 2.2 D will occasionally not start, tries it a little later and away it will go. Been into the local dealership and they have diagnosed that the ignition switch is at fault, he's not too sure the exact part however he is on the cost, best part of £700. Gulp. He does not use it very often, lives local to work, so just short journeys. As there are well known issues around the S-Type and their batteries I'm wondering if there could be a similar issue associated with the XF? It's on 55k and I think a 2013 plate so the battery is some 5 years old, probably enough for a diesel on short stop/start use. I've asked to check his battery volts as it has been standing for a couple of days and get back to me, guessing it should be around 12.6-12.7? Anyone experienced similar issues. Ta Gary M

Now I also run an oldish Jeep Cherokee. A rather asthmatic 2.4 petrol with 150 horses it wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding, but very handy in the snow and for going to the tip. About a week ago its A/C pump seized about a 100yrds from home so managed to get it back before it caught fire. Got it swapped out (boy do Chrysler/Jeep know how to charge for parts, think it should be CRYsler). Anyway drove into work the other day and it wasn't right, pulling to the left rather. Noticed smoke coming from the N/S front wheel as the brake had seized on. Anyway parked up safe called the AA and he actually fixed it at the road side - have new discs and pads ordered to be fitted this weekend. Anyway got home Tuesday night and the new A/C pump has failed, seized and dumped its new oil all over me drive. Well done AA, will not quibble at the new membership costs due in a fortnight. As for Jeep/CRYsler thank goodness for my S-Type is all I can say. Think I might just buy a box of matches for the Jeep next, will save on a new A/C pump, pads and discs.

It seems strange to some degree that different manufacturers advise different time/mileage criteria to changing the timing belts on our cars. MGR it's 6yrs/90k miles, JLR 7yrs/105k (diesels). My Jeep is 9yrs/120k. Gates' advice is interesting: https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/problem-diagnosis/synchronous-drive-system They seem to attribute belt failure on almost anything but time/mileage. So should the advice be change the water pump/tensioner/idler pulley at a given time/mileage and the belt as an aside?

Plan on getting mine done this year. is there a recommended service kit for them and is it better getting it done at an autobox specialist?

Bought myself the only accessory my S-Type needs whilst at Gaydon yesterday: Might have a bot of trouble with fitting it and getting it through the MOT though.

On the day I took it in I only had around 4-5 inches of cleared screen on the drivers side, nothing cleared on the rest at all. Now it all clears a treat, to be honest I don't think it worked from the day I had it but I never noticed as it was the late summer when I bought it. Best of luck with sorting out the issues with your car.

Well got round to getting it replaced for the princely sum of £230ish, so not too bad. Did have a slight problem with the wipers not clearing the screen but now solved. Clears the screen a treat. Result.

Seems as if you have a few more issues to solve Stu. My local garage have given me a price of £300 fitted, somewhat less than AutoGlass, so I'll probably go for it. Let us know how you get on with the work on the car. Gary M.

Whilst it was in for a wax oil the screen was checked and no surprise the heating elements are shot, awaiting a price for a replacement.

Think the only way to be absolutely sure is to take them off. Just had mine wax oiled and behind the sill covers too. They were clean and solid, however there was a lot of road grit behind them, wonder if this acts like a shot blaster and removes the paint?

I did think about the insurance route but the screen is perfect. I'm having it checked on Friday, it may be something very simple and inexpensive, sadly I'm not that lucky. Will let folks know. Stu I'm a little further south in Stowmarket. Very famous now as as Guy Martin did his track laying vehicle test for the WWI tank replica at the Scania depot. Gary M.

If, as believe, my screen's elements have failed - driver's side partially clearing passenger side nothing at all - then a new screen seems the only option. New ones are in the order of £500 without VAT and fitting, however those nice people at Autoscreen have quoted me some £430 all inclusive. Now I rarely use it and none of my other vehicles have it installed but I am a stickler for things to be working and right, so might bite the bullet.

Hi Stuart As it was frosty this morning I took the opportunity to swap the relays over in the fuse box, the result was still the same so that eliminated those. So next up is the connections behind the A-pillar I think? Where in Suffolk are you? Gary M.

Mine only clears on the drivers side, but in a rather narrow strip. As yourself have checked the fuse and all good, I believe they are on two separate relays both situated in the front fuse box and the connections are in the A-pillars. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type-Electrical-2005on.pdf Pretty sure to access the connectors in the A-Pillars the air-bags need to be disabled? Is this best by disconnecting the battery? Not sure how easy they are to access by getting the trim off without breaking something.

Thanks for the replies, I'll get it looked at and get back to you. Gary M.