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Found 40 results

  1. Hi The time has come to get rid of my old Blue S type. It has now done approx 179000 miles and the engine, gearbox, diff etc. are still fine. It has had the belts done of course. It has rust on the front wing, some rear suspension bushes need doing, the front heated screen does not work driver side and the Air Con does not work on drivers side until you have spent 20 mins in the car. It is not worth much but it runs really well and does not use much oil at all. If anyone has any interest let me know as i need rid of it. I would rather someone who can use it has it rather than the scrappy. Regards Neil
  2. My S Type is currently fitted with 245/45R17 tyres which need replacing. Would 235/45R17 tyres be acceptable on these 17" wheels ?
  3. Lewis Wetherall

    Fix a misfire?

    I have a 2005 S Type that has a misfire. When you put it in Drive, everything seems to be ok. As soon as you move forward the car starts beeping continuously. When you come to a stop, the beeping stops. The car is on 'limited performance mode' and the engine light is flashing. I would like to repair this myself. Does anyone know what needs to be done or what is actually going on in the car? Thanks!
  4. Martywolves


    Hi all. Im new on here but need some advice? I have a 2007 stype diesel. 77k. Recently i noticed some smoke coming from under the hood. I took it to dealer and they said that the firewall at back of engine was smouldering??? The firewall is fabric!! I thought this was just sound proofing and always thought the firewall was like a foil metal type of sheet/material. Every thing in the car works and no electrical issues. The dealer said that to replaceitem they have to remover engine!! I then phoned another garage and they said that it was soundproofing which may have come away and was touching the cat or dpf, as these get very hot and consequently staryed to burn. They just advised me to rip that bit off . Since then I have looked at other s types and they do not have the so called firewall around the same parts of the engine as i do. Has anyone come across this before or have any knowledge of this. Hope all this makes sense. Advice help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. John Hetherington

    New member. John

    Just joined the club but have owned my S Type 3.0L Auto since 2004. It’s a 52 plate Jan 03 model. Love the car! I bought it with 11000 miles and it’s now done 182000 and still runs well. It does have a CAMBUS fault which I can’t trace - ABS and other fault lights come on intermittently. Annoying! I do want to keep the car but would really like to get the cambus error sorted.
  6. Jim Elston

    My S Type

    My S Type at Carisbrooke Castle. My other half got me the reproduction AA badge, which I think looks lovely and sets the car off nicely. The car herself is proving to be absolutely wonderful, we have done quite a bit and all that is left is a sensible solution to the droopy headlining...We all know how good the S type is, so I won't belabour the point, but this is everything I wanted! Love it to pieces!
  7. Londonmike

    no power

    hi I would like to know what has happened as I now have no real power pulling away but goes well once started to move. no lights on dash or any codes at a loss but know one of you great men would know ha has it worked ???

    cdc player

    Hi all, The remote CD player accepts the cassette and loads but on the console it says no CD inserted any ideas anyone?

    front screen misting

    Hi everyone, has anybody had a problem with the front screen misting up from time to time, had a small water leak on the water pump which I only found by using ultra violet dye and a detector lamp, the unit eventually failed which I replaced fairly easily. I'm thinking that there could be a small leak on one of the heater cores. has anyone got any ideas?
  10. Matty1705


    Hi all, just signed up here. Had my S-type for about a year now. 3.0 v6 auto. Lately on hard acceleration I’ve been getting puffs of smoke out the exhausts. Also the box is beginning to feel a little tired, any advice?
  11. Jim Elston


    Hello! Just thought I would introduce myself. I am Jim aged 57 and live with my long suffering other half on the Isle of Wight. I will collecting my (New to me) Jaguar S type in a couple of weeks from a local dealer. I have always wanted a Jaguar but for varying reasons it has never been the right place or time. I had a limited (Very!) budget to replace my car with, but was amazed at the prices that you can pick an S type up for. The one I chose was well within my budget. It is a 2001 3.0 automatic in Aspen green with a cream leather interior, 10 spoke wheels and is in immaculate condition. The reason I chose it was because of it's condition. Mileage is 97k which is very reasonable for its age, It all works! All of that leather, air con, the V6 and so on for virtually banger money. There were some Xj's available but I personally love the s type styling and I feel it is a more involving drive. I have read all of the "It's a Ford", "Its a Lincoln not a Jaguar" "You should buy a German car" posts that are all over the internet, but totally disregard them. This drives so well, I can't imagine how the later models drive! I will post pictures and hope to share experiences with other S type enthusiasts who enjoy the car! Thanks JIm
  12. Hi,I am new to forum, hope to get some help/advice regarding my 2006 S type diesel with a coolant problem. Bought cheap as a project with few faults, limp home mode had kicked in and owner wanted to get rid. OK , drove home , could maintain 70 mph on motorway, regular stops, no overheating, no clunks or rattles, just very slow! At start up brake vacuum build up slow but brakes ok after a few seconds idling, also one diesel injector seemed to be leaking due to fumes under bonnet one side. (these last two problems were resolved after discovery of a blocked DPF causing higher than normal pressure within engine, potentially catastrophic!) Noticed coolant leak from expansion tank, pressurising, maybe lost 1 litre or so of coolant in 100 plus miles, also noticed oil on dipstick black and up to high mark (first job changed oil and filter). No sign of Head Gasket failure, no Mayo on oil cap or dipstick and no oily residues in coolant, gas test did not show hg failure either, blue chemical did get lighter blue over time but never yellow/green, did test over exhaust pipe and it changed quickly from blue to yellow. My OBD2 reader revealed EGR and MAF faults, managed to resolve Limp mode by software upgrade, EGR, DPF delete,plus tuning to give about 250 BHP (EGR blanked off , DPF fitted so looks ok for MOT,I have found out these devices make next to no difference to emissions, make cars uneconomical,reduce power and potentially shorten life of your engine). Intend to use car for occasional track use, its performance is now up with my old straight 6 supercharged XJR, just cant believe its a diesel! My problem now is that the coolant has been pressurising,(temp gauge stays in middle,not overheating?) fan not working, so removed it to find the sensor/control circuit board inside motor burnt in one place. Bought a second hand fan replacement but still did not work??? Replaced temp sensor, still fan not working , so replaced thermostat , water pump, no change. Replaced radiator, old one was scaled up/blocked and this did relieve the problem a little but still pressure in system. Tried running, idling with radiator cap off and a plastic Lucozade bottle with base cut off, neck of bottle screwed into expansion tank, an old trick that works if you need to "burp" system. Could not see any coolant leaks from usual suspect metal pipes underneath, its very tight space and hard to see. I changed to a new 16" Thermostatic fan (it works independent of ECU using a probe inserted in top radiator hose, it has adjustable temp switch kicking in when needed in traffic , they work ok on classic cars so why not?) and fitted fan within the cowl of original 18" fan and used Aluminium high temp metal tape to make a good seal around fan cowl to radiator.Also changed to Evans waterless coolant, expensive stuff but ideal for high performance use, even fitted aluminium 1.5mm sheets of metal around front condenser radiator to create a more efficient airdam through bumper, now car still pressurises coolant and loses a small teaspoonful through expansion cap after maybe 30 mins drive, accelerating hard/ at speed /in traffic. Evans coolant is good but can not fix a faulty cooling system. The condenser rad at front looked a bit dirty/old so cleaned with a jet of low pressure water and I removed the lower dozen or so rotten aluminium veins to allow better airflow, slight improvement. I trawled internet and found a guy who had a similar problem with a Range Rover Sport Td V6, he eventually found out a failing EGR coolant jacket was allowing a trickle of exhaust gas into coolant causing similar symptoms of hg failure, pressurising the coolant, according to JLR fans the hg on these engines rarely fail? I am hoping for some advice as to how to safely bypass cooling jacket of EGR, They are hard to get at for a start, I already blanked the EGRs myself (easy enough job fitting 4 metal blanking plates,removing a pair of pipes and a butterfly valve), I may have to leave EGRs in place and just join the in/out jacket coolant hoses? Please if someone has measurements regarding internal width of in and out coolant pipes please let me know, also how to joint them? Maybe a plastic / metal connector that fits inside the pipes and clamped on? At moment I guess there is some exhaust gas heating up blanked off valves thus heating up the coolant passing through them and there must be an exhaust leak into coolant. No sign of white smoke or steam from exhaust, a small amount of coolant may be burned up but I am not losing much coolant?? The exhaust gases seem normal, very clean, no soot, I had a scare on an initial test drive, black smoke and poor acceleration that turned out to be a loose intercooler pipe, easily fixed. Also if I leave EGRs fitted, blanked off and coolant hoses bypassed, I guess they will just sit there doing nothing but getting hot? Ideally they should be removed and a blanking plate fitted to the exhaust manifold but due to location maybe near impossible to do? I hope my story is of help to anyone having similar problems, trawling internet, many times these problems get misdiagnosed and owners spend £1000s trying to put them right, fitting new head gaskets with no improvement and finally scrapping car / fitting replacement engines at huge cost. I have done the work myself over several months on and off, not exactly spent a fortune but takes time ,hopefully bypassing EGR coolant jackets is the solution?
  13. Gossy

    New owner

    Hi all. I've just purchased my first old Jag (2003) 2.5 SE and although I have the buttons for a phone, I can't see how to pair my phone. Probably being naive but does anyone know how to and advise please? Does it need a sim and if so, where do I put it? thanks for any help Clive
  14. GingerPower

    2.7 v6 lumpy idle and misfire

    Hi, I'm hoping someone will have a solution to this problem. My 2006 2.7 V6 diesel S-type has had an intermittent running issue, what happens is once the engine is up to temperature the exhaust will sound louder and then the engine will have a slight misfire when cruising at around 1500 - 2000 rpm. When I come to a stop it will idle and be really lumpy like it is going to stall. I've had a diagnostic on it when it's been doing it and no codes come up and where it's an intermittent problem I'm thinking it's possibly a problem with the ECU as the climate control is also broken and only blows hot. Also my service required light came on much earlier than it should and the mileage till service kept changing and going up and down, now it just shows the red light and 'service required' I've had a faulty injector changed, EGR valves cleaned and an air flow sensor changed. Apart from the ECU I'm out of ideas, has anyone had a similar problem if so what is it that it needs? Cheers
  15. Jaguar Owners Club

    Battery Reset Procedure

    Here's how to carry out the Battery reset procedure - (originally posted by Raistlin in the S Type Forum) Have radio code to hand BEFORE disconnecting battery. Restart the clock (where fitted) and set it to the correct time. Enter your radio code or if you do not have it then follow backdoor code below The code only works once you have entered the failed code 3 times Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT" Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on. You must press the buttons together i.e. at the same time Windows each window 1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one-touch" up function. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 2. Release the window control switch. 3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully open position ("one-touch" down). 5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up) automatically. • NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("onetouch" up), repeat the complete procedure. Operate the window control switch once to the close position. 6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window motor. EPB reset 1 Switch off ignition. 2 Disconnect battery for 30 seconds reconnect battery (not required if battery changed). 3 Start the engine. 4 Confirm that the message "NOT CALIBRATED" or "APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE" is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates the the parking brake is in calibration mode. 5 Lightly press the foot brake. 6 Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch. 7 Release the parking brake. 8 Release the foot brake. 9 Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument pack and that "NOT CALIBRATED" message is no longer displayed in the message centre. 10 apply and release the EPB 5 times to ensure no error is present. Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature as the stored idle and drive values contained within the ECM have been lost. Allow the vehicle to idle for a further three minutes. Drive the vehicle at constant speeds of approximately 48 km/h (30 mph), 64 km/h (40 mph), 80 km/h (50 mph), 96 km/h (60 mph) and 112 km/h (70 mph) for three minutes each. This may cause a driveability concern if the procedure is not carried out. This will allow the ECM to relearn idle values
  16. Hello! I am now the proud owner of a 2006 2.7d S Type. I have a few jobs to do on it and have a load of questions! I'll post them in the S Type owners forum. I just wanted to say hi! And thanks for all of the free advice, it's been really helpful. Dave
  17. Timstype

    First time owner

    Hi everyone, my name's Tim and I've just bought my first Jaguar. It's a 2002 S-Type 3.0 SE.
  18. Extremely well looked after. A real head turner. Very fast, much sort after car. Runs like a dream!! Wife forces sale, you will see me cry when this goes! (cheap road tax for this car, misses the higher band by days. The autotrader price for the road tax is wrong.) 2005 JAGUAR S TYPE V8 R AUTO 4 Door Saloon. Fuel Type Petrol, Automatic transmission, Blue.0 to 60 5.3 seconds. Excellent example of a Jaguar S Type. Excellent condition in and out. Cleaned and waxed weekly. The service history book was lost by previous owner. but he tells me it has full history. I have receipts for services at 10k - 20k - 40k - 60k - 70k and 90k. last serviced May 2016 at 90k . 5 MONTHS MOT included. No advisories on last MOT. only £295 year road tax. This vehicle is HPI Clear and in excellent condition throughout and drives like a dream, This vehicle has covered 91k miles (almost) from new, 4 former keepers. Just some of the spec includes Full Black and White leather seats ,PAS, RCL, Sat Nav with latest disc, Xenon Headlights, Cruise Control, Full Leather Interior, Memory Seats, Heated Seats, Dual Climate Control, Auto Wipers, Auto Lights. Fully voice activated, Rear electric sun blind, Recently refurbished alloy wheels, Electric Windows, Electric Mirrors, CD MULTI Changer, Front and Rear Parking Sensors, Tinted Windows, 18'' Alloy Wheels & LOTS More. Only selling because we need a workhorse. To carry bikes and kids stuff ect This car is amazing! I really dont want to sell it. 5+ owners, Next MOT due 19/05/2017, Part service history, BLUE, £7,50007825243832 or
  19. I've got an '04 Jag S Type 2.7 Twin Turbo V6 diesel auto which runs as sweet as a nut. ATM it's got 79000 miles, I'm the third owner, it was serviced and MOT'd late July and has 4 winter tyres with decent tread. I believe it's got most of the servicing in the book (from what I remember). I've got a report of every MOT it's been through and it's only ever had advisories on the tread depth of the tyres. The wheels are the optional 18" BBS Melbourne wheels which were refurbished in August and apart from a couple of minor scratches on a couple of them, they are in absolutely phenomenal nick. The interior is ridiculously clean for a 12 year old car and apart from some barely noticeable scratches on the NSF bumper and wing mirror the exterior is also. It's awesome to drive about in, I do a combination of motorway and town driving in it and it does both extremely well. It's got most things a Jag should have; automatic memory leather seats and steering wheel, automatic headlights, cruise control, the ability to make old men swoon, etc. The only reason I'm selling it is because I'm insane and I want to swap it out for a motorbike, so I'm pretty much happy to keep it unless I get the right offer - and as it's winter, I'm not entirely desperate. I would potentially swap for the likes of a CBR600F+ money my way (needed for gear etc). I live in Redcar in the north east, but work in Ruislip, London. £4000 ono
  20. chris62

    dreaded battery drain

    hi guys, i have the dreaded battery drain, i have a 2007 s type xs 2.7d, its been fine for the eleven months ive owned the vehicle, but suddenly the battery was flat when i went to use the car, charged battery and started fine, left outside locked and armed that night and dead in the morning, thought the battey may have dead cell so purchased a new batterry which was fitted to the car fully charged and was dead within two hours!!! when i say dead i mean absolutely dead, nothing, no lights no ignition lights no power anywhere, had all electrics checked, all fuses pulled and monitored, and diagnostics plugged in and checked with nothing found, i now have to disconnect the battery after use, ( used every day) i forgot to disconnect yesterday, went out to disconnect an hour later but it was to late, it had drained the battery totaly, ive watched to see if anything becomes live after ive left it but nothing being reactivated that i can see, i am at a total loss as to what is going on as is the electricians, can anyone shed any light on this?
  21. Fellow gents, I've got an issue with my headlights where the offside is pointed up about 3/4 feet where it should be at a normal distance and I'm being a nuisance to everyone with my dodgy headlight. From looking at it, it seems to be the whole lens is pointing up and I can't see a way off adjusting it. How do I go about sorting it? Cheers, Phil
  22. S type jag 2004 2.5 auto 110000 miles with loads of history,drives nicely £1200 ono Tel:07891903013 Ian
  23. Groomie

    Stype sump gasket

    Jaguar S Type 3 ltr petrol 2005. I have a minor oil leak I think from the sump gasket. I was quoted £560.00 by Guy Salmon to replace it. I understand it is a huge job but for that kind of money I'll put up with it. Any suggestions???
  24. Hello fello gents, I'm in the process of tidying up my new (old) grey S-Type 2.7d SE and in doing so, I'm having the alloys (BBS Melbournes) refurbished professionally. I have a tough choice; Gloss Black or Sparkling Silver? The car is grey and I've just purchased some absolutely beautiful red centre caps (PSA pictures). Which is why I believe Gloss Black is a good choice (+ the new jags look gorgeous in this colour scheme). However, with the classic look of the S-Type, would it look daft? Should I play safe with silver? Does anyone have a grey S-Type with black alloys? Or have an opinion on the matter? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Phil (PS I'm 23 years of age)
  25. Paulinderjia

    Strange Engine Moaning (Video)

    Hi All, I've recently purchased a 2001 Jaguar S-Type Sport V6 which has recently been making a moaning noise intermittently after some hard acceleration. The sound appears to be coming from under the bonnet and in first thoughts sounded as if it was a belt rubbing on something in the engine bay, however after some close inspection this is not the case. It only appears when you apply very slight acceleration and can be heard both inside and outside of the car (more so inside). You will be able to hear the noise in the attached video. Thanks for taking the time to read this, any help would be much appreciated! Paul video-1466873764.mp4