Bearly awake

Thanks. I will look into it.

That's great, thanks Raistlin. I see you call yourself Retro-fitter, do you happen to know anything about retrofitting cruise control to a 2.0D?

That's great, thanks Joe.

I believe there is a known mod which enables the power fold mirrors to operate when locking/unlocking the car. Could somebody point me at it, please? I have searched but can't seem to find it. Thanks!

I have a Kenwood aftermarket stereo in my car. Generally it works very well, but if I put the heated rear window/mirrors on, it turns to static. It might be coming down the supply, but I know some cars use the heating element as an aerial, and I wonder if that is the problem. Does anybody have any experience of fixing this problem?

Have just ordered one, will let you know...

Hi John. I had a similar experience with my car, which is also a 2005 2.0d. The fault code on mine was for excessive fuel pressure. This turned out to be wrong, and was because the real faults had caused the system to go a bit haywire. The problem was actually three things, all of which the x-type is known for. They were a faulty cam sensor, a dirty fuel filter and a split hose from the MAF to the turbo. I suggest that you replace the cam sensor for the improved grey coloured one, about fifteen quid on ebay and easy to do. Then replace the air filter and fuel filter. Make sure the fuel filter is a good quality one, a Bosch or Delphi. Check the air pipe to the turbo carefully, it often splits and the car will never run right if it has. I repaired mine with fibreglass tape until a replacement arrived. Clean the connectors on the Maf, a quick but gentle scrub with an old toothbrush and WD40 will do. Make sure the battery is fully charged, and finally fill up with good quality fuel, like Shell V-power and add a good quality fuel cleaner. It is important to always run the car on top quality fuel, they are notoriously sensitive to it. Don't use normal diesel, and never supermarket stuff. Hopefully after fitting the new parts its will be immediately noticeably smoother. Take it out and give it a good high speed run, get the fuel system cleaner working. If all this doesn't clear the fault,, by changing the fuel and air filters and cam sensor, you will at least give yourself a level playing field for fault investigation. As for your over voltage code, check the voltage across the battery at idle, it shouldn't exceed 13.8V. Your local battery shop can do this for you if you aren't sure how to. If it is out of spec, it can only be your alternator at fault. Here is a link to a thread about my experience. Good luck.

Has anybody here changed the air con pump themselves on a 2.0D? Obviously will have to get it de-gassed and re-gassed professionally, but thought I might change the actual compressor myself to save on labour, looks quite tricky to get to though.. .

Anybody any experience of using one of these? I'm not expecting more power AND mpg, as it states ;-) but am wondering how well they work http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262622177663

Hi Peter, David and Joe. With your help, I have fixed my car, so thank you all. Before getting into what I did though, I would like to clarify the thing about a potential £300.00 charge for for diagnosis-rather than reading the fault codes, which my mechanic had already done for free, that was for a full system check-injector spray patterns, pressure at different points in the system, software analysis, fuel sample chemically tested etc, all using Delphi specific kit. Anyway, in the end I didn't much fancy that. Based on your advice and other threads on here, I decided to change the cam sensor, air and fuel filters, fit an EGR blanking plate and run some good quality fuel cleaner through it. In the process of doing this I also discovered that a vacuum tube was not fitted to the underside of the air box, the inlet snorkels were not fitted, the pipe between the turbo and MAF was split and an electrical connector in the engine bay was burnt out (not sure what it is, a fairly large wire to a stud, where another wire picks it up, running along the front of the engine). All in all, I'm surprised the old boy ran at all. I fitted the new parts and repaired all the faults, and cleaned various other electrical connectors....and my car now goes better than it ever did, it runs like a sewing machine and pulls like a train and is a joy to drive. Thanks again! BTW, when replacing the fuel filter, I remembered an old tip a mechanic once gave me-turn the new filter upside down, unscrew the drain cap and carefully fill it with neat injector cleaner. This primes the system (Worked at treat, it fired immediately) and gives the injectors a good dose.

The actuator arm moves through about 45 degrees when the engine is revved, so I guess it's ok-although I suppose I had better check when it is hot. I have heard that some people clean the turbo by drilling a hole in it and filling it with oven cleaner. Have you come across this? Otherwise, I think I will change the fuel and air filter, blank the EGR valve, check and clean all connections on the MAF etc then run some good quality fuel cleaner through it. I've been quoted £300.00 for full diagnostics, and the guy said it sounds like injectors to him (£1000.00 to fix!) , so I will see if this works first.

Thanks Dave. Any advice re the fuel filter? Do I need to depressurise the system somehow before removing the old one, and how would I bleed the new one? Cheers

Thanks everyone

Thanks Peter. I always do use premium diesel, Shell V power, and I have run injector cleaner through it recently. Might be worth doing again.

Hi. My 2.0d has recently started running slightly rough sometimes, seems down on power, lurches when accelerating and seems to stall more easily. It doesn't do these things all the time, but often enough. My mechanic said there seems to be a fault with one of the fuel pressure regulators, but is unsure which one, and recommends I take it to a diesel specialist. A couple of days ago, after about fifteen miles, the glow plug light started flashing and the car cut out as I exited a roundabout onto a busy duel carriageway-not nice. It started again a few moments later and has been ok since. I've had a look around on here and this would seem a fairly common thing, with the turbo actuator often being the culprit. I checked mine and it seems ok, moving through about 45degrees when the engine is revved. Does anybody have anything useful to suggest, or do I bite the bullet and take it to a diesel specialist for a good wallet-rogering? Any help much appreciated!