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  1. Yesterday
  2. What type of EPB - Twin wheel mount or single cable actuator?
  3. On the 27th of July the Wootton and Dry Sandford Community Centre are holding a festival with classic and exotic vehicles, live music and food. There is no entry fee.
  4. Last week
  5. Just to update, replaced the diaphragms and there is a difference to the car, however, the limp mode is still there but more manageable. However, I have been using SDD to understand the DTC's and I have hit a brick wall and do require some assistance. If anyone knows of a SDD specialist who can remote assist then please do suggest. Thankyou in advance. My thanks to Vic for suggesting the vacuum issue, I will be arranging a smoke test on the turbo side as there maybe a leak that is causing the limp mode.
  6. I am having real problems of water ingress on my X Type 2006 Estate. The water leaks on the navigation unit in the back NS unit. So far I have had to replace this unit 4 times which wasn't cheap. One garage told me that the black strip on the bottom of the rear window has failed (it is corroded) and another garage said the window is a bonded unit and should not leak and the black strip is cosmetic only. Totally confused: has anyone else had this problem?
  7. Sorry for the delay. had family emergency. NO, doesn't turn over but battery is at 12.8 volts. Remember all the codes. just need to know where to start. Thanks
  8. The place it is situated couldn't be worse for maintenance, if it faults it's a towaway followed by considerable cost. Not to mention the garage has to gather all parts before taking the job on so you lose your car for a month. It really is the elephant in the room for the S Type. Doing this means the actuator is protected from spray, freezing temperature, dust etc. Everything is within reach for servicing. Don't get me wrong this method of EPB is very good since the brake is cable actuated and that lowers unsprung mass but my EPB has not been moved since new and it showed. I had difficulty pulling the EPB cable and all the bolts were a rusted lump. All told this cost about £40 and the original actuator has gone back in yet some clown on eBay wants £1250 for a new S Type parkbrake. Need I say more?
  9. Thanks for the sound advice. I will get the battery tested first and if that's not the problem I'll look into the abs sensor. Thanks once again. It's very much appreciated.
  10. Morning Justin, Very interesting idea, just wondering what motivated you to change the location for the parkbrake?
  11. Here I present my conversion removing the parkbrake from it's location above the differential to the spare wheel tub. The diff has to be dropped a few inches with a special tool T10179 needed for the rear bolts. Given space the parkbrake eases out. The actuator was quite rusted and I had to grind every bolt down. However internally it was all ok with new Allens fitted for reassembly. I chose to extend the loom from the parkbrake and feed it to the original plug under the car, the wires to the parkbrake module are very thin. Making a loom rather than intercepting those wires was the easiest option. The parkbrake bolted to the side of the tub with the cable running out to the original route and being reconnected to the cables as normal. The way the cable actuator operates means that for it to be fitted internally there is about one place for it to go. I wanted to do this for a while and although it did not cost a great amount it was a hard days work I don't mind saying.
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