faltwen

It works on ,my computer. Try typing thecarkeyman into google if you cannot get the link to work. or try calling 01522 514141

Hi, Try this company, they are based in Lincoln. http://thecarkeyman.co.uk/

My old 2.5 petrol one was a pig to fill up. I found best way was to hold with handle at 9 O Clock and pull trigger to max. I could get between £5 and £7 at a time before it stopped. My new diesel one is perfect and fills quickly with one press. I seem to recall a thread on another forum that mentioned a canister that requires replacement but i can't remember exact details.

Sound a little like slack in the transfer box, mine clunked when I got it at 60,000 and still clunked at 96,000 when I sold it. I reduced it by changing gear slowly and carefully.

X Type as a 1st car, can't be bad, mine was an Austin 1800, you may need to google that as it was a long time ago!

Not sure really, apparently the car is connected to SDD whilst oil changing and if it requires an update it does it automatically. I haven't noticed much difference in the car yet but apparently the oil removed was thinner then it should be.

I've just had a gearbox flush and new oil plus software update at a very reasonable price at S&D Transmissions in Doncaster.

I used a 90cm strip of adhesive LED's in mine, stuck them behind the lip so they aren't visible and wired them into the original light. Much better light then original.

That's great advice. I use Millers C1 oil direct from Opie Oils. Just a quick question about gearbox oil. My 08 auto has done approx 63,000 miles. I've had it about 7 months and (touch wood) haven;t had a DPF message yet although it has regenerated between 500 and 750 miles. Would it be a good idea to try and find an auto gearbox expert in my area to get the fluid changed.

Mine was the same. Remove the wipers and cowl. There are two connections, one in each corner. Check the electrical connection fastened to the bulkhead at the faulty side. Mine was impossible to split as it was corroded. I cut it off and used choc blocks, heatshrink and lots of tape to rewire. Result, heated windscreen now functions correctly