I have the same warning on my car...had a JLR specialist look at it and the problem is the airbag under the bonnet..it's being repaired next week.

Hi John, unfortunately I live in Poland. ☺️but thanks.

Hi Frank Most important is to ensure new battery is an AGM. Personally I would look at Kwikfit who did mine twice with no problem and I got a 5 year guarantee. If doing it yourself people do suggest using a battery tender to maintain a 12v supply whilst you change the battery over. Regards John

I am contemplating replacing the starter battery 12v 100Ah 830A (EN), I have the dual battery system. Is it a job I can undertake myself, if so what are the pitfalls and what action do I need to take to avoid them. Thanking you in anticipation.

Hi Tim, both the X-100 and the X-150 models have their supporters and both have their own particular foibles. Yes corrosion on the X-100 models can be an issue, but if it's been looked after by an Enthusiast owner who knows the areas of concern, they should all be addressed and solid. X-100 principle areas of corrosion are the rear arches and the floor pans under the passenger and driver footwell. The X-150 models have aluminium architecture, which means that the body should largely be corrosion free, but you still need to look carefully. The car body will not rust, but corrosion can still be present, evidenced by some blistering of the paint as the white aluminium oxide works under the paintwork. Typical areas to inspect are front end stone chips, trailing edges of the lower doors, boot lid around the chrome plinth, which can be a water trap, especially if it is a little loose and also vibrating through the paint coating. Also check above the windscreen rail, which can also catch stone chips. Of course the X-150 has steel underpinnings and if the car has been used all year round, or lived most of its life next to the sea (air) then the front and rear subframes can be corroded - badly in some cases. Check rigorously under the car, especially around the rear subframe mounts where it meets the aluminium body - preferably on a ramp. More difficult to inspect the front subframe as it is generally hidden by the undertray. If the rear is bad, then you can be assured the front will also be poor. The 4.2 litre engines are good, but in my opinion the 5.0 litre is better. The difference between the XK and the XKR are not as marked as you might consider - it really depends on how you drive the car. Yes the XKR with its "active" exhaust can sound awesome on acceleration, but the exhaust noise valves only open above 3,000 RPM, and you will rarely be pushing the car to that extent in day to day use. In conclusion, check out cars that have previously been owned by an enthusiast - there may be a club sticker on the window or in the glovebox, or a show rosette. Check out the MoT history via DVLA, and purchase the best you can afford - there are quite a few good ones out there, but also any number that may have been subjected to a "hard life". N6 JMX

Hi Armando, you don't say whether your battery is good, or what age the battery might be! Anything over 5 years and you should be considering fitting a replacement battery as the car's electronics are very sensitive to the battery voltages. In fact, the ability, or not, of the battery to start the car is no longer the best indicator that the battery is in good condition. There are any number of potential parasitic drain points on a Jaguar, interior lights, including the lights in the sun visor mirrors not turning off. Can we assume you have checked the car in the darkness to ensure there are no courtesy lights illuminated? Include the boot / trunk in your checks. After that, it will be a case of connecting your multi meter to read current drain and systematically pulling fuses until you find the drain. N6 JMX

Hi, having just bought my 3rd xf, this time a 15 plate 2.2 portfolio, and dissapointed to belatedly find no reverse camera or front parking sensors. Should have checked but..... Any advice on retro fitting jag parts to this car. Thanks