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2000 XJR - Replacement Stereo.....

Featured Replies

I've had my XJR for a couple of weeks now, and although the sound quality from the Alpine system is impressive, the lack of modern functionality is less so.

 

I do have the Motorola, or rather DID have, in the centre cubby, and although the unit is NAV compatible there's no Nav drive in the boot.

post-8479-0-29977300-1449674689_thumb.jp

 

So I've bitten the bullet and gone for a replacement unit.

 

As I understand the situation from posts on here, whilst putting a more modern double DIN unit in place of the standard one isn't impossible, it is rather difficult as there isn't actually a double DIN amount of free space behind the fascia.

 

Solutions have ranged from cutting and welding bars and supports out of the way, and detatching the touchscreen from a unit, mounting it in the boot and running a cable to the screen in-dash.

 

Alpine seem to have come to my or even our rescue with a series of double DIN sized touchscreens with a single DIN chassis.

 

http://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/dab3842/ine-w997d

 

and,

 

http://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/navigation-systems6/x801d-u

 

To make them a single DIN fitment there are no mechanical drives in the unit (CD/DVD), but you can buy another hideaway unit, like the multichanger in the boot, to do that job if you want.

 

I've plumped for the W997 unit as it looks to have the chassis in the position closest to the Jaguar Alpine.

 

So now the trick should be, how to wire it up so that everything works?

 

I've ordered the iPod lead and DAB aerial with the unit, I think the iPod will go in the centre console, bit not yet any wiring kit or fascia replacement.

 

Would I be better off purchasing a kit or is there someone with more Jaguar know-how than I with an idea of how the wiring should go, and how to make it look neat once installed?


Personally I would take it to a Jag specialist, main dealer or a good auto electrician to resolve. Jaguar don't make it easy to upgrade sound systems. That was one good thing about my old Mercedes SL's it was so straight forward.

  • Author

Well the new unit has arrived, alas I'm no closer to determining which cable does what at the back of the Jaguar unit.

 

If I can't get the pinouts for the connectors, I feel I'll be off to a specialist for the radio install, something I've never had to do in any of the cars I've owned (including my SAAB 9-5 with Premium HKsystem) and I've had many ALFAs.

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Success!

There are now sounds to go with the SatNav.

Bought three 5m signal cables to run to a new amp placed a top the bracket that held the old Premium one, and ran the cables up the LH side under the parcel shelf and into the boot behind the fuel filler neck.

A seat squab out and backrest lifted effort to get access to the boot.

Had to chop the speaker connector off and then solder some new cable in to extend it to the new position of the amplifiers speaker out terminals.

Found some old Bluespot Velocity crossovers in "the shed" so can split the front signal from the amp into a mid/high as there's wiring for both the front doors and front tweeters.

Once everything is working, it'll be time for a tidy and hide the cabling away, probably under the door sill covers, then up and behind the dash.

  • 4 months later...
  • Author

Last stage, now everything seems to be working OK I can hide away the signal and trigger cables running from the head unit to the boot mounted amp.

A by-product of which is to try and 'flatten' the n/s door tread plate which seems a little untidy.

DSC_0545.JPG

A quick attack with a trusty blade and the chrome tread plate was removed revealing the fastenings and trim tape used to secure it.

DSC_0546.JPG

T30 Torx bit made short work of the locking plate and, after removal the tabs holding the carpet down can be seen.

DSC_0547.JPG

DSC_0549.JPG

 

The cables were then routed with the rest of the cars wiring behind the carpet and other plastic trim panels behind the dash and into the head unit.

DSC_0550.JPG

Plate bolted back down, and cover secured back in place, hopefully looking better than it did before, but still a little shonky looking from previous attempts to stick it down, or being caught when getting in or out.

DSC_0556.JPG

Did the same on the rear door plate trim, which oddly enough has more Torx fasteners and an extra piece of plastic trim (running across the car over the heel fuse boxes) which you need to secure under the trim plate before bolting it back down.

 

 

 

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