bertie1249

Well having only owned the s type for a month. It was time to go. As some of you already know, I had problems with water leaking into the passenger side. To cut the story short it never got resolved so the car went. 

For the short period I have been on this forum, I have found the members very friendly and helpful and therefore I would like to thank the ones that commented on my topics and queries.

Having only owned the car a month I bought the 2011/2012 sat nav disc (which is the latest one) at a cost of £30 and also a set of plastic number plate holders with the Jaguar emblem which I paid £15.

I don't want to sell these on the for sale site as I have decided to offer them on here together for any member who wants them and is prepared to cover the postage cost.So if you inbox me they're yours

I hope this is not breaking any forum rules and thank you all again

On 20/01/2017 at 8:31 PM, Russ68 said:

Absolutely Joe, my worn wheel brace was a least the partial cause of the original damage to the nut. So for those that didn't pick up on it before, I can recommend replacing the standard wrench / brace with something like this one from eBay, which I went for, it fits in the standard foam insert and is considerably better that the original... 

Good to know about this so decided to buy one on your recommendation. Especially with my luck lately.

Cheers

Thanks guys for your replies, did try all sorts including the straw taped up to the Henry Hoover. Gave in, in the end,truly well beaten by my stupidity.

I feel like that old character on tv many years "Frank Spencer". Everything I seem to touch goes pear shaped.

Defeated I had to eat humble pie and phoned Jaguar and ordered a new ignition barrel, but I've been told it will match my existing keys(which is one blessing)

Cost £232 just for the part. Heaven knows what's it going to cost in labour charges by my mechanic. Expensive mess up.

Im not much better at diy either come to think of it. Reminds me of a few years ago I was taking down an old brick outhouse. One of the walls collapsed and the Mrs was standing a foot away from where it all fell.

Now she has to periodically check on me if I do anything nowadays lol

Cheers again everyone.

Well I'm back on here again asking more questions lol

So went to put WD40 into the ignition barrel. Used one of those micro files to keep the key barrel open so it wouldn't close and jam the plastic tube of the WD40 and typical of me the end of the metal file snapped and dropped inside the barrel.

Cannot now get the key in the barrel and it won't turn even to position 1. Tried all sorts even pressurised air to try and blow it out but with no luck.

Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new barrel.

My question is, can I get a new barrel from Jaguar that will match my existing keys and if so will everything have do be re coded again, and if so how much am I roughly looking at?

i.e. My old keys to the new barrel or will I have to buy a new barrel with a new key therefore I'll land up with a different key to the rest of the car, and also how does the coding then work with different keys.

Also cannot do the job myself so independent garage guy is calling at the house on Saturday. Not knowing anything about cars other than driving them and putting petrol in them. Is this a big job ??

i haven't even had a chance to drive this car properly but on this occasion it's my mess up :(

Cheers everyone

46 minutes ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

Have seen this on cars before, not on the s-type though,  there usually a rubber bit on the drain that goes deformed and hard with age, which usually blocks up

Good they found it,  I've seen them  splash in when you pull off, as that area can hold quite a lot of water and it would have to fill right up to the heater inlet/pollen filter before it come in the car

Cheers

Joe

That's it Joe, couldn't remember what it was called. It's the air vent on the left  just in front of the windscreen that allows air to go to the heater inlet pollen filter.

He showed me after he'd cleaned all the leaves off. 

He poured water down the front and I could see it flowing freely from underneath the car.

As you said guys I hope it was that and an easy fix. Will have to continue to monitor it, but so far the carpet is dry and we've had a good bit of rain. So crossing my fingers.

Ok just a quick update guys.

The car went in the garage yesterday and the water was traced to the nearside blocked drainage hole. It was full of leaves, which were cleared and blasted with air.

Was explained to me that apparently leaves get stuck having fallen down the vent just in front of the corner of the bottom left side of outside windscreen??

if that makes sense. He told me in future to periodically put a hose pipe in there and blast water down there and make sure it runs freely out of the bottom of the car. They also wet vac's the carpet to prevent any possible damp smell.

Will keep an eye on it for a while

1 hour ago, Leo said:

Don't despair Phil: It may turn out to be easily fixed. Many members spend a little time getting their cars right, and then enjoy the fruits of their labours for years.

Cheers Leo, Will cross my fingers for Monday. Hope they can trace it. Boot is as dry as a bone. Had the heater blasting on the carpet for three and a half hours on my unexpected journey home. I thought I was in the Bahamas inside the car and the sweat pouring off me. Had to turn it off in the end as the passenger airbag light came on.  Stopped and restarted car and light went off. 

On the plus side "What a comfortable car to drive". No backache after the journey.

Booked in to the Garage Monday. 

Thank You Joe, and thanks for the link Andy.

I have no idea where the waters coming in from. 

Will have to take it to garage on Monday. 

I've only had the car a couple of weeks and hope I haven't bought a Lemon. 

Only drove it for the first time yesterday and starting to have regrets already.

1 hour ago, Leo said:

Exactly which model do you have Phil?

If you feel below the glove box at the side above the dampness, is that dry?

A wet footwell can result from a leaking air conditioning pipe which is difficult to get at.

Sorry should have mentioned 2006 3.0 petrol.

Just been out to check again, and everyone above and around the glovebox is bone dry, but now noticed that the carpet is wet on the rear passenger footwell as well. Checked the rubber seals around the door and they look undamaged. Also removed the plastic trim  next to the rubber seal and it's soaking underneath it. 

Well yesterday was the first time I drove the car since purchasing it at Christmas.

Travelled four hours to South Wales as youngest daughter was having her first child.

Got in the car today and noticed the carpet  on the passenger side appeared to be wet. Lifted the car mat and the carpet was absolutely soaking wet. Felt the carpet up towards the engine and it was bone dry, but the side and front part of the footwell was drenched.

Never owned a car that has done this before so wondering if this is a common problem and can someone suggest a cure? And please no suggestions to buy a pair of flippers and trunks.

Updated DVD disc 2012 received today. No problem with install took less than 5 minutes. Remembered to change Map location to U.K. as it defaulted to Belgium.

:)

Cheers Peter, that's what I did in the end got it for £25

Thanks Joe

Thanks Joe but don't understand things like that. To be honest wouldn't know where to start.

Found one :)

I currently have a 2006 Sat nav DVD disc for the s-type. I believe the current one is 2011-2012.

Could anyone advise to the best place to get one other than Jaguar itself which is silly money

Thanks,

Phil

I've found it it's a Bosch S5 013 100Ah

and it should be on the normal setting programme. 

Thanks Peter, will make sure battery is topped up :)

Cheers Paul, thanks for the link, liked where you've placed the ctek indicator, will have to invest in one of them as it's easier than faffing around to get at the battery and connecting crocodile clips.

Only thing I'll have to watch is that my car is parked in the open, used to leave it overnight with the old car but will have to watch with this one to make sure no water gets in boot.

I have a ctek mxs10 and on my previous car I had to use the setting AGM.

What setting does it need to be on for the jag

Cheers,

Phil

Cheers Joe, mine is also a Ctek charger. I used it on my previous BMW and had to put the setting on AGM if I can remember correctly.

I guess the jag is not an AGM battery not sure but if it's not I'll have to change the settings.

Thanks for letting me know about the battery vent tube. Didn't know about it so I'll check if it's there

Cheers,

Phil

Thanks for your replies. Will leave the battery in the car for now and connect up to my charger. Just in case I mess something up if I remove it.

To her credit, the previous keeper has really looked after her. For a 10 year old car it looks as if she's just come out of the showroom. 

Cheers,

Phil

Well today I'm the official owner of a s-type manual 3.0 sport and I'm really pleased with the car, only 17,000 and I must say she is in lovely condition.

She won't be used now until the new year so I intend to Trickle charge the battery over this period.

On a previous car I had the battery was also in the boot but had the facility to connect the charger under the bonnet, to relevant connectors.

Is this the same with the s-type and where are the connectors or do I connect it directly to the battery in the boot?

Should I also disconnect the battery to the car or is it safe to leave it where it is and connect the charger directly.

Thanks everyone and looking forward to learning from this forum.

Rgds

Phil

Thanks Russ, Luckily I've got a good wife who enjoys cleaning and waxing cars as much as I do, and I totally agree with you regarding maintenance, and I've got a very good independent garage that will also look after her, mechanically wise

Hopefully we will have a good long term relationship.

Now all I've got to do is sweet talk Paul so I can go to Wolverhampton in the New year or a bit later to get the bluetooth, Jaguar voice, and folding mirrors fitted. 

Thank you for your replies. Bit the bullet and paid my deposit, but due to my commitments car won't be delivered until the 23rd. 

So I guess I'm an owner or nearly an owner of an s type. 

I know I've asked a few questions over the last few days, but thanks to the members who replied it helped me make my purchase.

Cheers,

Phil

Thanks guys, I was shocked how comfortable the ride was and the gear changes were so precise and "tight" 👍🏻. Plenty of power there too when accelerating. To be honest it felt like a new car

Well good and bad news. On my way home now having just been to view the s-type. The car was lovely, body work was superb( two minor scratches which should polish out) and interior spotless.

Only negative I could find ( bearing in mind knowledge is limited) but I found what I would say was approximately a quarter of a mug of water in the boot under the spare wheel. Other than that I was really pleased with it.

Seller said he would clear out the drain pipes to make sure there was no blockage, and that he would sort it before sale.He did state that he'd power washed the car prior to my arrival. 

There was no sign of rust or mildew there.

Should I be alarmed with this, and is it fixable or should I just run and forget it.

Cheers,

Phil

1 hour ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

usually if you at the top of the sill, nearest to the rear, by the wheel arch, it will come unclipped there quite easily and you can look in, from what i've seen, when they go there worst at the back, also if you bang them with your hand, from the bottom, if it sounds like there's a load of loose stuff in there, then you need a closer look.

my car a 2004 S-type R, the sills still look like new, but when I purchased mine , the garage let me put it on the ramp and even gave me a screw driver so i removed some of the plastic clips and had a proper look, I liked the car and told him if the sills are good its mine.

as for the rear cross member as far as I know there no issues with 2002 onwards, it was pre face lift that had a different rear sub frame and was prone to rotting, these are quite hard to find now good second hand, like I say laters ones are better, don't rust  and second hand ones are plenty

take it for a good test drive as well, if its a auto make sure its all smooth, most common issue is lurching and surging in the 1-2, 2-3, 3-2,2-1, listen out for any knocking or bumping, there's a large amount of bushes on these that can fail, should be silky smooth

also every time you stop try the parking brake, these also can be a common fault, you get EPB fault,

check every thing works, especially all the electrics, check both remotes work

check inside the boot, some were prone with filling with water

check the headlights, its a common fault that headlight adjuster break inside the headlight, which usually means the beams are very low, sagging, auto adjuster wont work, give very poor lighting, they can be repaired, but very time consuming, HID headlights means headlight off and bumper off to replace bulbs and to repair adjuster inside.

service history will be a good indicator on the car, more the better, look at the tyre's, descent branded tyres on the rear are a must,

these are just a few, but check them sill's

cheers

Joe

Thanks Joe 👍🏻