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Showing most liked content since 03/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi Mo and Welcome to the Club, Trevor is probably right that the fuel in the system is probably stale. Even if you have put some fresh fuel in the tank it may take some time for the old/dud fuel to clear the system from the tank to the fuel injection system and injectors. It would be a good idea though to check that you are getting a strong spark at each of the spark plugs before doing anything else. If you're not then theres a good chance the fault is to do with the HT leads, distributor or coil(s). Next check out the air supply and clean/replace the air filter. The filter will attract damp if the car has been standing for a long time and may not be letting air flow effectively to the intake manifold. You may also find that the air supply pipes between the intake, the filter and the manifolds have perished or even attacked or used as a home by the local mouse population - I kid you not. If you find nothing wrong with the spark or the air supply tenth problem is almost certainly the fuel supply. For this I would strongly recommend an inspection of the fuel tank, the fuel pump, the lines from the tank to the injectors and I would urge you to replace the fuel filters as these too have probably failed/become clogged/collapsed while the car has been standing. Not wishing to preach but the above represents the holy trinity of internal combustion engines - spark + air + fuel = bang! Help this helps, keep us posted on progress. Cheers, Steve
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    Denis goes by the username:- the jag den If you want, PM me and I'll give you his phone number.
  4. 1 point
    No Ameh, the sat nav DVD module controls the touchscreen. You would need to go for a complete retrofit. Wouldn't be that expensive, Denis could probably supply all you need.
  5. 1 point
    A pleasure. Hopefully, you'll get the Touch Screen installed and working soon. Cheers, Steve
  6. 1 point
    One just can't get good help these days. One has to constantly watch over them like a hawk. Constantly. Like a hawk.
  7. 1 point
    Delighted (and of course relieved!) to have just heard that my S Type has passed its MOT, with only one advisory "Offside front brake pipe slightly corroded". I can finally confirm that the LED Headlamp bulbs I fitted caused no problem as I suspected would be the case. I may get it washed this weekend as a special treat, it deserves one
  8. 1 point
    Just the ticket, well done Ron for keeping this fine, but unnamed, example in premium fettle.
  9. 1 point
    Hi Ameh and Welcome to the Club, It should be possible to swap out the head in which the two LCD screens are mounted and replace it with the larger Touch Screen used from 2003. You will need to check though whether the optical fibre cable harness has been installed (from the boot to the dashboard) to support the Nav Drive. If you intend to proceed I suggest you get in touch with Raistlin (Paul) who is a regular contributor as he and his mate Den can provide very clear and specific help concerning what kit you would need and how to verify what kit is already installed in your car. He and Den can also supply you with most/all the bits. You can contact Raistlin by doing a search on Sound or Navigation systems and when you find one of his posts hover your cursor over his name and you will see an option to send a private message. Cheers and good luck, Steve
  10. 1 point
    Jim, I do agree wholeheartedly with you on viewing the car as a 'rolling restoration' rather than the more common view that the repairs will cost more than the car is worth. I saw someone, on another forum, saying it was time to scrap his S Type as it had cost him £2000 in the past year, so I call that £170 or thereabouts a month and look at what you can get for £170 a month. Now you could lease a brand new VW Up (be still my beating heart!) for that amount of money, but at the end of the lease period you'd be left with literally nothing. To lease the equivalent of the S Type with performance and comfort would be some £400-500 a month with a deposit up front, etc. Of course you could take out a can loan. For £170 a month over 3 years, you could get £5500 which ain't going to buy you a lot of cost free reliable motoring! And of course at the end of 3 years, your purchase would have depreciated as well. After years of buying cars based on how much I can afford to pay out monthly in finance and ignoring the up front and depreciation costs, I now think very differently. For example, some years ago I bought a lowish mileage Merc C270 CDI for £14k. I paid an upfront deposit of about £6k and in the region of £250 a month on a car loan over 4 years. Four years later I sold it for £6k. So four years of reliable, relatively comfortable motoring cost me £8k depreciation, £6k deposit, £9.6k loan repayments, a total of £23.6k, or £500 a month excluding service and on the road costs! And that was nowhere near the worst of my car purchases..... It is truly frightening when you start to look at the real cost of owning and running a car. I then took the advice of a German friend who purchased old, high mileage, executive cars with a view to running them into the ground at next to no cost. The S Type is the third in the line of such cars I have bought over the past nine years, and so far it has paid off. My last, a Merc ML350 over four years cost me around £2k in depreciation, about £300 in repairs including a new battery, £500 for a set of tyres, and normal servicing included discs and pads front and rear, handbrake shoes and a couple of ball joints. The S Type over the past ten months of ownership has cost me £200 for the replacement of a hub bearing and £100 for a battery. I don't visualise much in the way of depreciation unless the sills rot or something serious happens forcing me to sell the car as a non runner, in fact a quick check on Auto Trader shows the cheapest 4.2 V8 available nationwide is currently £2500 (plenty of basket case 2.5, 3.0 and diesels starting from £500, mainly from the pre 2002.5 facelift period and a couple of cheaper 4.0 V8s). When I bought mine, I was only really looking for the 4.2 V8 so I can only judge on those, the 4.2 V8s within 50 miles of where I live (not nationwide) started a lot cheaper than that so I assume they have in fact gone up in price over the past year). Similarly the STRs, the cheapest currently is an early one at £3500 have also gone up in price. As a comparison, the cheapest Merc E Class on Auto Trader currently is a high mileage 1999 E430 (coincidentally pretty close in performance to the naturally aspirated 4.2 V8) at £2995. I feel like I have stepped off the conveyor belt of car buying and my bank account feels a lot better for having done so! I also think I own a unique gem of a classic car, there is nothing else quite like the S Type.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks Steve, mine is in excellent condition, so I think I will go ahead. I think the cars will rise in value, I think they are about the last of the old school executive cars that the brits did so well, Wolseley 6/110, Austin Princess, Vanden Plas, MK11 jaguar, original S Type, Zodiacs, Granadas, Vauxhall Senators... And a rebuilt box should be good for at least 60k, this one has done 112K... Now the pothole damage to the rear suspension is repaired it would be rude not too...
  12. 1 point
    My 2009 XF 2.7D Luxury has been displaying the following warning messages: - Gearbox Fault -DSC Not Available - Parking BrakeFault The low batterylight has occasionally come on since I've had the car Given that the car drove perfectly with these warning lights on and that the car was on it's original 2008 dated battery, I thought that a new battery would cure the problem. However after fitting a new battery, all the warning lights above came on again AND the Cannot Apply Parking Brake warning message and constant buzzer warning for this comes on when driving. Also, after fitting the new battery the brake lights don't come on! I had a new brake light switch fitted but the brake lights still don't come on! The low battery warning still comes on occasionally too even though the battery is brand new. I've taken the car to an independent and a specialist but neither had the latest Jaguar software so it's booked into the main dealer next week. Greatly appreciate any advice - while the new battery was a waste of time and caused the new problems at least fitting a new battery proved that it wasn't the original battery causing the warning lights. Given that the new battery hasn't cured it, I'm thinking along the lines of maybe a software upgrade (car hasn't been serviced at main dealer for 18mths) or a computer reset with the latest Jaguar software could possibly resolve the issue? Thanks in advance
  13. 1 point
    Send them a photo of an empty tabletop "The cartridge which didn't arrive and is not here is shown in this photo"..........
  14. 1 point
    hi sometimes at the discretion of the mot person, but it wants fixing really, coming from a biker as well its no fun when there oil on the road but if its not a bad leak, give it a good wipe down before you take it and they usually pass, also with the water leak, need to get it fixed as usually they let go big style with water every where and depending on the temperature when it lets go, can damage heads and gaskets if you know where the water leak is and your just waiting till the mot to see how it goes, use some radweld, just pour it in the expansion tank and will fix small leaks, I had to do it once while we were on holiday and the radiator sprung a small leak, cured it for a few weeks till i got the radiator replaced if it were my car and the car body work is sound, mainly like the sills and arches, I'd keep it, there generally quite reliable, but if your thinking of selling, once its got that mot its the best time to sell, but you will struggle to find a descent one with less than 50k , new rules also are for diesels and won't effect petrol cars, you might find it will go up in value due to this. cheers Joe
  15. 1 point
    My car is Metallic Indigo Blue - quite dark - and I use a good shampoo - Auto Glym - and an auto glam detailing spray to get any dirt off. Then a good application of Bilt Hamber Double speed wax - two coats in the autumn will last through the winter, Peter.
  16. 1 point
    Hi Yes the above post is correct. I work for jaguar. the xf xe are made at castle Bromwich alongside the xj and f type. The f pace is made at Solihull land rover plant The new I pace and e pace are being made in Europe.
  17. 1 point
    I was born and lived about 5 miles from Halewood and nearly went there for a Job just after it was built. When Ford took over Jaguar it had also taken over Saab and Volvo, and had also built factories in other EU countries, and built several Ford Models in countries such as Belgium. The x type fitted into Halewood quite easily and in a way, saved the plant from oblivion. Peter.
  18. 1 point
    Hi Glad there is a issue, thought it was just me home page was ok , but every other page was not loading at all for me, been like this for the past few day hope it gets sorted I wish I got slow, most pages wont open for me cheers Joe
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Hi Alan, and welcome to the club. Carl is based in Erdington and I am unsure how far away he goes. His number is 07866 986243 and mention my name. He is a real expert on cars of every description and has looked after my cars for 17 years, Rovers and Jaguars as well as my son's Jaguar. Let me know how your get on, as if you are too far away, perhaps you and I come organise something. Regards, Peter.
  21. 1 point
    Unbelievable is the right word. Peter.
  22. 1 point
    Its back, all the problems sorted, had my first day running around in it, buying cleaning kit and generally grinning wildly, love it!
  23. 1 point
    The day arrived on Saturday. Arrived at 9am. We hooked up with Launch ATF machine. All brand new. New sump, rectangular adapter seal, 4 housing sleeves, plug sleeve, new bolts. 16 litres of Lifeguard 6. (a couple of extra just in case) Bit fiddly getting the lines hooked up to the oil cooler pipes. Added the Launch flush cleaner. Ran it through the gears for 10 minutes. Drained 4 litres through the Launch. Torx screws were such a pain. 3 had to be forced out due to the heads stripping. He broke 2 torx pieces! But all out eventually. New ones have much bigger torx heads! Dropped the sum to drain the other litre. Loosened some of the screws on the unit, another litre or 2 must have drained from that too. Then we started with the output seal. removed the driveshaft ****** etc. Popped out the rear seal and this is where it went wrong. Wrong size seal!!!! So drove away in the courtesy car. New seal being delivered tomorrow! He'll drop the mechantronic unit today and replace the rectangular seal, plug sleeve, 4 housing sleeves and sump. once the output seal arrived he'll replace that then begin with the full exchange of the oil tomorrow.
  24. 1 point
    the thing is that, away from 'perfomance circles', the way to get your brake effort up is just to use big rotors. The X was probably designed late 90's as a mid-range saloon car. there wasn't a huge need to have multi-pot calipers on anything that 'shouldn't be driven in a sporty manor' and at that time the price of big calipers wouldnt translate as 'economical' to either dealer nor buyer, so it was left off the X. The Alfa would have had 5years worth of tech develop before it was designed and judging by the other models at the time (3.2 V6 Breras, 3.2 V6 GT, the big heavy diesel and 4x4 systems used in the 159) there was need for some serious stopping power up front, under the 17inch wheels these 4 pots are TIGHT, the 18s were a big money upgrade, theyd already gone for the big rotor approach, and then ran out of space so the only thing to do was go for more effective calipers. In all fairness, the X is no slouch in the way it stops but will always pale in comparison to more modern motors of similar class. Mostly due to the era it was built and cost effectiveness. if you wanted a sporty jag you saved up for a bit longer and got the XK... which i know has some big ol' anchors bolted on it.
  25. 1 point
    Just going through the relearning process (non sports mode). Had VMTP Midlands do a check after, top up the fluid and reset the TCM adaptions followed by a test drive. 3 days into driving all feels good. 2 bumps occurred from 1-2 over 50 miles done but just hoping that's the learning process. It has high mileage so its never going to be that good. bump from 5-6th has gone. At least I know it has all new fluid now. Fingers crossed. Will check for leaks over these weeks just in case due to the movement of oil cooler pipes and the rear output seal changed.
  26. 1 point
    Don’t worry you can do the same tomorrow 🤗
  27. 1 point
    Jaguar xf interior styling
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    And she really looks fantastic black really suits that model 100%
  30. 1 point
    I think that it can't be too long before an S-Type owner switches on the ignition and gets the horrific shock of seeing multiple failures all being reported at once. The problem is that the electronics in our cars is susceptible to firmware corruption at low voltages and as a result the car will try to "fail safe" by shutting down various systems when it detects a low voltage state. In days gone by, you'd get a warning of impending battery failure because the lights would go dim and the starter motor would make the instantly recognizable churning noise. Not so with our cars though. The first indication is when you get the heart-stopping song and dance routine on the instrument panel. Following advice, I adopted the following solution and offer it here as food for thought. I tend to put my car's battery on trickle charge once a week overnight. Since I started doing so, I've never suffered the failure routine again. Being of a generally lazy disposition though, it had to be easy I wanted a trickle charger that would condition the battery and could remain connected without any possibility of damaging the battery or associated electronics in the car. I chose a CTEK trickle charger following advice and a fair bit of research (I HATE to spend money and not get the best value). CTEK's web site Further, I wasn't keen on lifting the boot floor and messing with crocodile clips so I went for their panel socket which is a small panel fitted in the boot lining. It has a three colour flashing LED system to indicate battery condition. I've found this to be somewhat pessimistic but, rather that than the other way round. Here is a Link showing what I did with my setup. I have the luck to be able to use this in a nice warm dry garage but I know of several who just plug the output lead of the CTEK in and close the boot lid outside their house and there seems to be no problem with water getting in to the boot. No. I don't work for CTEK I'm sure there are some equally good trickle chargers made by other manufacturers but this works for me.
  31. 1 point
    Denis (the jag den) has been providing parts for Jaguars for some years now and those parts are always below the prices you find on fleabay etc. He has assisted several members on this forum and has been a great source of parts for me as well. We have decided to throw in our lot together as this has been successful in the past. That is to say, Denis can provide parts and if you would like them fitted we can do so at no extra charge if you visit us at Penkridge (Staffordshire). Denis is the mechanical side and I tend to do the electronics. We have access to the Jaguar diagnostics software so can offer retrofits on X-types, S-Types and XJs but if you're just after parts we are happy to do that as well. If we have a specific car in for breaking we will put details in this thread. The free fitting only applies to club members and is a way of saying thanks for the help we've received from the club in the past.# If you are in need of a part, PM me or Denis and see what we can do for you :) This is not a commercial operation as we both have full time jobs.
  32. 1 point
    I'm kinda glad I don't have Jaguar voice. Another woman (I assume it's a woman they usually are) telling me what to do and completely misunderstanding my clear instructions would simply drive me to distraction. I already have a wife and a satnav!
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Hi, I retro-fitted a pair of LED lamps from Ebay circa £29/pair to replace the standard fogs. These were Plug & Play - i.e. fixings and connector. However I had to reverse the DC feed polarity. Images below for further info. I haven't as yet applied any electrical mods so that they operate correctly as DRL/Fogs. I just switch them on as fogs when I need them. Access to the lamps is as Joe says via the radiator splash panel, which when removing for the first time can be challenging. Jaguar factory fit plated carbon steel M6 screws (usually Torx) and lug nuts to this access panel (also on all other under body panels) and of course rust - making them difficult to remove. Patience and Plus Gas can help. Avoid of course "the old blow lamp removal technique" as plastic panels turn to liquid. A method I have used to remove the little buxxers is with a Dremel fitted with a small diamond cutting disc. However be careful as this can also cause a build up of heat in the screws. Just keep a water spray to hand for cooling the cutting area. When I replaced my lamps I fitted new lug nuts (available on Ebay) which were supplied with M6 Stainless Steel Button Head Socket screws and nylon washers. I applied copper grease to the fixings to ensure I will always be able to remove easily.
  35. 0 points
    I just bought a set of four toner cartridges from an ebay supplier and when the package arrived there were only three cartridges. I asked the supplier about this and had the following reply. "We will require photographic evidence. Please send us, immediately, a photograph showing the missing cartridge." The mind boggles.