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  1. Lubed, wiggled and now moving freely! Thanks again.
    2 points
  2. Welcome to the forum, enjoy.๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 points
  3. Yes you can, they are designed that way. If they havenโ€™t been moved for some time then spray some lubricant into the swivel point and just keep wiggling them until they are in the park position
    2 points
  4. Hi, try sending an email to http://www.davidmarksgarages.co.uk they are in Nottingham, not far from Leicester. They may be able to help you out.
    1 point
  5. New to this forum so please excuse if I'm not familiar with all the etiquette as yet. Situation is: 3.4 XK engine last run about 10 years ago. Engine was in satisfactory running condition when last used. Doing a compression test cold, I'm getting 40 - 60 psi on four cylinders and absolutely zilch on the other two. Might there be any suggestions for a logical way to proceed with investigation? Not too worried about details at this stage, more just a general approach. For example, might a reasonable first step be to remove the cam covers and have a look at the valve train? Any suggestions much appreciated.
    1 point
  6. Interesting. Plugs are out, no fuel in system and, yes, foot on accelerator pedal. I'll certainly try the approaches as suggested above later this week. An extra snippet is that the engine had had its bores long term soaked with CocaCola (not by me). Anyhow, I'll proceed as above. Thanks
    1 point
  7. Hi Chris and welcome. As the engine has been stood for so long, remove the plugs and put a teaspoon of oil down each. Wait 5 minutes and then spin then engine on the starter for 5 - 10 seconds. Replace the plugs and retest the compression, if still the same then you start dismantling.
    1 point
  8. Here are a few pics and a vid of me driving around Mallory Park at the end of last year on the very last warm enough day. https://youtu.be/EBZpqfJHO7k
    1 point
  9. Hey Dave, Thanks for the advice re the wheel nut, it's mega mangled so may be beyond this type of help, but I'll give it a go, sounds like a clever use of chemistry ๐Ÿ‘ Yup, it had to be a Sport manual for me, they are rarer, but in 2015 when I bought her, there were still a few about. Now I have 2 with my manual SE donor as well ๐Ÿ™‚ The MGF is great, but not a patch on the Jag for build or execution, I've had it since 2003. It will be fab when I have them both back on the road again. Cheers ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 point
  10. Hello Aaron, Welcome to Jaguar Owners, would you like to add a picture of your new car, We would love to see it. Kind Regards, Julie.
    1 point
  11. Succinctly sums up the situation i was in! Because the wipers still wiped and i'm used to the wiper and washers sharing a fuse, i assumed (wrongly now i've discovered it) the fuse was ok. Borrowed a 10A mini-blade fuse from a friend with a non-roadworthy Rover 75 and hey presto, washers washed again! ๐Ÿ˜› As i've not needed mini-blades until now, i invested in a 120 piece set on ebay : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232818816362 A set of 10 different values, 12 fuses in each value for a mind-blowing ยฃ4.65 delivered! Assume P&P is ยฃ3.35 considering the size/weight and that leaves ยฃ1.30 for the 120 fuses or a smidge over a penny a piece! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ I haven't discovered the low screenwash message in the S-Type yet, fairly sure the XJ40 i had ~23 years ago had similar, i know my Volvo 760 has a warning lamp for low screenwash (needed on that, the way it uses screenwash!), the first 827 Sterling i had (a Mk1c 1988/F reg) had a warning lamp on the "Vehicle Computer" but the Mk2a doesn't and a few other cars i've known/owned over the years have had it. As you might guess, no handbook came with my S-Type, that said it did have a large history file with loads of receipts, it was an estate sale to the dealer i got it from and one previous owner + demo, low mileage, FSH etc. Still getting to grips with how things work, what doesn't work and shouldn't but i expect it to, what works when i don't expect it to and so on.
    1 point
  12. I will get some "they glow as they blow" type fuses in the future, they are very useful. however I got 10 x 10A mini blade fuses for ยฃ1.99 on ebay, 20p a fuse is very reasonable. If they blow, it'll be very easy to fault find in the future. Cold day, no squirt, no warning message on dash? Blown fuse, screenwash is frozen. Very nice feature. When I got the screen wash squirter working again I went on a little cruise in the countryside, blasting the wash every mile or so until it gave a little dribble, the wipers stopped and a message popped up on the dash warning me about the low screenwash level. I've never seen that in a car before, it's a useful bit of information.
    1 point
  13. This gives a better idea of the cooling conversion. Simply put, the thermostatic valve is placed after the cylinder head and before the radiator. This is typical for a race installation, it is not typical for street use. This is the heart of the conversion, without this there was no point me being there. The standard setup sees the thermostat valve 'after' the radiator and because of this the engine temperature has to be higher to open the valve. Not only that, the thermostatic valve has a sprung plate on the back of it that will open given enough water pressure. So if the engine is revved the plate will allow water thru and this goes back to the pump/head, bypassing the radiator. This is what I mean when I say the standard V6 is biased to run hot. The V8 is built right with the thermostatic housing part of the cylinder head, don't compare the two they are totally different. The back pipes are less restrictive preventing knock. If an exhaust is excessively restrictive burnt gases buildup in the downpipes, the exhaust stroke does not fully evacuate and exhaust gas can re-enter the cylinder. If exhaust gases flow back into the inlet port during valve overlap this can cause pre-detonation, potentially holing a piston. So if a standard V6 is run around a racetrack there is a high chance of engine failure. There is no need to route cool air into the air intake since it isn't turbo'd and the inlet manifold casting is hot when running. Searching for that perfect air intake isn't worthwhile, we are not doing 300mph
    1 point
  14. The paint codes are on a sticker inside the front doors, in case this help ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 point
  15. Pacific Blue is memory serves, the donor SE I have is a lighter metallic blue ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 point
  16. Thanks Dave, I also have a headlining to replace and a rusted and mangled wheel nut to remove and a couple of panels to respray. Hopefully all doable ๐Ÿคž I've secured a complete donor car, an X200 manual SE, mine is a sport, which should help keeping her on the road long term. I've had a few cars that give me that grin you mention, including my MGF which I still own, but my 3.0 S-Type with the manual gearbox exceeded my expectations, which were quite high in the first place! Grace, space and pace indeed ๐Ÿ˜
    1 point
  17. Interesting that Dave! From what I know about water injection, I thought it was mainly to stop pre-ignition in high compression and forced induction engines. But you think it may be a benefit to a normally aspirated S-Type? I think the Rocketeer guys who are dropping the Jag AJ-V6 into Maxda MX5s are claiming ~255bhp mainly from improvements to the inlet manifold (they have 2 low profile ones for the conversion). So with this in mind I have secured a couple of spare manifolds and want to have a look at cleaning up the castings and ensuring it's all as good as can be. Plush an external polish for a bit of engine bay bling! I had bigger plans in the early days of my S-Type ownership and considered such craziness as NO2 and turbo charging. But now I just want to get her back on the road in a relatively stock form. Excepting the manifold work, Adamesh pipes and STR induction I mentioned before. I also have the rare 275/35/18 rear wheels from an STR which fill out the rear arches beautifully! I also undertake any servicing and repair using high quality OEM parts. Gone are the days where I may have thought that an amateur fettler such as myself could really improve on Jaguar engineering. Rather I want to ensure she's running as well as designed, with a little bit of help here and there to make her as dynamic as possible and best suited to my needs ๐Ÿ™‚
    1 point
  18. You may be right Dave, with 240bph, the 3.0 has an excellent output and was pretty well thought out before leaving the factory. They're aren't a lot of 'low hanging fruit' in regards easy gains for power or efficiency (if I've overlooked any, please let me know! ๐Ÿ˜†). But I thought the Jag designed STR intake, which is a fab looking scoop affair made for 400bhp in this car, would likely draw more air than the standard 3.0 rather convoluted system, here's a pic of it: If I can't marry this up or getting running smoothly it will be easy to revert to the standard intake. I bought it from a breaker for not a great deal of money, so it's worth a try IMHO. Nothing ventured nothing gained etc. BTW, we had a discussion about just this on this forum in 2016, I can probably dig out a link or it's easy to find should anyone be interested ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 point
  19. The exhaust are a straight-thru with the mid silencers retained. Silent on tickover but plenty loud at high rpm. You can get these at drive in exhaust shops for ยฃ3-400 and a few hours. It's the 2.5 auto and the gears were tricky, I was thinking that if I selected the max gear to run on a straight with the 'J' gate it would be better than just using sport mode. Can't give you a rear facing camera cause I don't have one. Watch out for the tyres you use, if you look carefully at the 1st picture the rear tyre is folding over on the tread. It's Toyo's on the front and some cheapo hack on the back. They were about done so I didn't mind doing the trackday with them. Luckily I didn't have a blowout. The engine was faultless I have to say, I did about 60 laps. Everything got fairly hot but I've already done a racing conversion for the liquid cooling and it's biased to run cool. You can see the fitment of the thermostatic valve in this picture - guess the rest!
    1 point
  20. hi if you lenses are a bit cloudy, can recomend the 3m headlight restoration kits for around 20 quid, they restore the lenses to like new condition cheers Joe
    1 point
  21. Thanks Joe, I think that on mine too the bumper has to come off, Mine are just dim and the lens appears dark. I'll wait untill it gets a tad warmer at the end of next month. Thanks again. Mike
    1 point
  22. hi they use a D2S bulb, thats all you need search for oe ones were osram, Ive fitted 8k colour ones in my STR, there brighter and got a blueish light to them, far better cheap ones are just as good as dear ones, as there all made in china any way, had cheap ones in mine for over 7 years also might not just be the bulb, could be the ignitor, bit on back of the bulb or ballast, bit on side of headlight, they also fail as said above anything upto 30000 volts to get them strike also on my STR you have to remove the headlights to replace the bulbs, as theres not enough space in the engine bay, which means the front bumper has to come off aswell, hope yours is easier cheers Joe
    1 point
  23. Well i took my 2.2d Sportbrake for its MOT and was surprised to be told it had failed, the indicator built into the drivers side mirror had stopped working. I ordered a pair of sequential indicators to install for ยฃ38.99 instead of putting in the original. I was extremely surprised this morning when the heated windscreen worked having not worked since xmas. What a relief having been frustrated wondering why i couldn't get this on but it seems strange i know but the broken indicator in the mirror was stopping it working ๐Ÿ˜
    1 point
  24. Thanks for sharing that. That's not something I could do! I don't have ramps or a hoist. Fortunately it was an easy fix, and it allowed me to get familiar with the passenger compartment fuse box. I see all that's left is a 5A fuse. Very nice feature on the blown fuse, a small light glowed red. Which was fuse 2. This is why I got talking with my dad and he reminded me that I should ask on the forum about the washer pump. He said that illuminated fuses is a feature on naval warships, it allows the engineer to see at a glance what electrical system has tripped. Whilst there was no emergency it was a nice feature, one I doubt will be present on the cheapy generic fuses I bought. now I know about them I want to buy some more. I really should read the owners manual some more. I learned that it has a safety warning feature on the screenwash so when the reserve is low it'll shut off the wipers to prevent scratches. Not an issue as the windscreen already had those when I bought it. I read over the entire list of what fuses and relays control and the rear fusebox has a relay/fuse (can't remember) for a subwoofer. Had it on classic FM and a friend did ask if I had a subwoofer, I said I didn't know but pointed to the "premium sound" imprinted on the tape deck. It does sound quite good, especially with stereo music.
    1 point
  25. Hello all. I thought I should let you know my car's passed the MOT. I suspect the last MOT was dodgy and I had to put right a few things. New shocks, new rear brake lines, new headlights. Advisories on the steering linkages (it's a bit juddery) and front brake line. Over Christmas I went to spend time with my dad who lives in Shaftesbury, which was good for me as over boxing day Mark from JagRar saw me in Taunton at his garage. I gave him the two original MOT failure headlights, and an additional nearside headlight taken from a breakers yard I got for ยฃ40 which was also an MOT failure. The brackets all rattled. He gave me a new (old) nearside light and it passed the MOT. I also got to chat to him, apparently the v8 engine gets better fuel mileage than the v6? I found that counter intuitive as with two extra cylinders you have extra friction. He said despite this, the different fuel mappings means that the v8 works out as more efficient. Got talking about the forum today as I was searching on youtube for where the screen wash pump is. Couldn't find any pertinent videos, it's not in the owners manual (at least I couldn't see?) and there's no haynes owners manual for the S Type. I'll make a new topic about it if I can't find one with the forum search.
    1 point
  26. Some of the clowns working in garages probably have no idea how to read a tyre pressure gauge! Or even a tyre pressure chart for that matter! Many moons ago, i put my 827 Coupe in for a wheel alignment check and it came back that the alignment was ok (i knew it wasn't, just wanted confirmation) but the tyre pressures were too low. Errr, no, they'd found they were 32psi all round, correct for an 827 Coupe running 16" wheels with 205/55/16 tyres. They insisted they should be 34psi all round so i asked them to show me so they confirmed what i already knew, they were reading the pressures for the 17" wheels fitted to the 820 Vitesse from 1996 onwards - another big clue there as it was a 1995 car! Makes me wonder what tyres i would have ended up with if i'd asked for a new set of tyres to be fitted! After that, i invested ยฃ72 in a Trackace DIY Laser wheel alignment system and did the job myself, correcting the rear wheel alignment (that they had insisted wasn't adjustable on that model!) and a tiny tweak on the front. They would have charged me ยฃ36 per axle to correct the alignment so to my mind the Trackace paid for itself on the first use, i've since done several other alignments with it and saved its original cost a few times over now. Back to the tyres, maybe they read the pressure for the space saver tyre and thought all tyres should be that! That's the TP chart for 1999-2003, double check your car Stopper for the label on the drivers door jamb to find the correct pressures but very few seem to be the same pressure all round. Usually the fronts are slightly lower pressure than the back on RWD cars so 32psi all round seems a bit wrong to me.
    1 point
  27. Hi just joined pick up my first jag on Tuesday I have bought a XF 3.0d
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. Hi Mark, Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club๐Ÿ™‚ I see you are from same area as myself. I hope you enjoy your XF, I am sure you will. Kind Regards, Julie.
    1 point
  30. Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I've a folding-mirror query.... I picked my 06 XK today! I don't think it has the power fold feature as there's nothing in the appropriate vehicle menu and the two-button press doesn't do anything. My question is.... can I manually fold the mirrors in if needed? I may have trouble getting it through my garage door otherwise! I don't want to just go ahead and force them in just in case they're not meant to fold. Probably many more questions to come but this is my most pressing. Thanks in advance! David
    1 point
  31. Hi Lee, Welcome to Jaguar Owners Club. Please post a picture of your XF if you would like to. Kind Regards, Julie.
    1 point
  32. Figure 09.1 of this manual refers, http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XJElectrical/2006 MY XJ Electrical Guide.pdf follow the lines back from the lights that donโ€™t work, should help you narrow it down.
    1 point
  33. Hi Also new to this forum - F type 2014 and XJS-C 1985 being restored....
    1 point
  34. Thanks again Jimbov8 I will do that
    1 point
  35. Ask an independent auto locksmith. They should shed some light
    1 point
  36. Sounds like a cross over somewhere. Do you have a code reader to pull any fault codes?
    1 point
  37. Yup, what Jim said, there will be a specific pressure for your tyre size. I have no idea why they went to 40psi, I've had a quick scan through every S-Type listing (I could find) from 16" to 18" and they range from 28 to 32psi, nothing close to 40psi. I personally run 30psi on my 18s. Perhaps they mistook the Jag for a van? My Transit Custom runs 40psi+ ๐Ÿคทโ€โ™‚๏ธ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ‘Ž
    1 point
  38. Hello Dave, Thank you for that, which is very interesting. Will check out the link and hold the details until I get their diagnostic result and depending upon what they say, will challenge them on the subject. Thanks again for your research. Harry
    1 point
  39. Hi Baz, front left and right rear is where the sensors are. Changing the discs is only necessary if they are scored or down to the wear limit. As for pads, the choice is endless. I personally go for what was fitted at the factory. If you do it yourself you will need a 7mm or 9mm Allen key.
    1 point
  40. I , some while ago, submitted a posting (sticky) on this forum in respect of the legality of upgrading to HID lights from Halogen. In a nutshell , if the original fitting is halogen they are not legally upgradeable to HID and can therefore be failed on MOT. Regards, John Not for me to say you should not do it, that is obviously your choice.
    1 point
  41. Noted re the 100W bulbs, I pulled a set of these out of a TD5 Disco I have that were working fine, so wonder if this was something you could do, but the design is quite different with a glass reflector not plastic, so I won't risk using something similar in the jag based on your advice. Unfortunately your links didn't really work, so I can't see the pics you refer to. I'd go to the webpage, grab the whole url and embed using the link feature which is accessed using the little chainlink icon 4th along from the left etc. Or just paste the whole link in without the brackets and additions etc: https://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/25348-s-type-headlights-convert-to-hid/#comment-83490
    1 point
  42. Well, it seems like you were right. I changed the battery in my wifes key fob and I've not had a warning sice. Thanks for the advice.
    1 point
  43. Hey Dave, I'm in the process of recommissioning my S-Type (yay! ๐Ÿฅณ) and have just had my electrics diagnosed and repaired which I thought was a good start! Like you, I have the earlier X200 and I am / was disappointed in the dipped beam performance. On one of her last night time trips back from Brighton on the A27, it was excruciating being dazzled by 4x4s and anyone running LED lights it seemed. With the full beam on, not so bad, but on dipped beam approaching traffic, not a good thing at all! In the arms race that modern car headlights seemed to be, I felt I was very much on the losing end! I asked my autoelectrician (a very capable guy) what he thought of LED conversion and he wasn't keen, suggesting Osram Nightbreakers, which incidentally, I was already using! ๐Ÿ˜†! The Nightbreakers are only 55W, so I wondered if more powerful versions are available? Or if 100W bulbs from another manufacturer could be an option? I follow this post with interest and hope there is a viable solution out there, ideally one that doesn't involve wholesale replacement of the complete headlamp units from a later car, or something equally drastic (and expensive!) ๐Ÿคž
    1 point
  44. Jim, I knew I would find a new use for a hairdrier now mine has gone โ€ฆ.
    1 point
  45. Hi everyone - new here although by no means new to the "joys" of owning a Jaguar... As I was driving last week the red "DPF Full - Visit Dealer" message appeared and the vehicle entered restricted mode. I drove it home on the motorway using paddle shift to overide the automatic gearbox but it didn't seem to make any difference. I called a local independent JLR specialist and they said that in most cases, this problem can be fixed by cleaning the DPF and then doing some sort of computer magic to clear the error as long as it's looked at straight away (i.e. don't drive it around for weeks and months with the light on). However they did say that as far as they were aware, once the red DPF full message came on, you couldn't get rid of it by forcing the car to regenerate the DPF and that if you took it to a JLR main dealer, they would probably tell you that it needed replacing. So I booked it in for a check and dropped it off this morning, stopping on the way to put a bit of fuel in as it was getting a little close to the 50 mile range. I put just over a quarter of a tank of Shell V Power Diesel (anyone outside the UK, that's a premium fuel) and when I started the engine the DPF Full warning had gone, performance restrictions had gone although the EMS light remained active. I left it with the garage as planned, explained what had happened and they were a bit surprised the error had cleared - but I guess we all learn new things every day. They're going ahead with diagnostics and I will let you all know the results and any work that they do to fix/correct the issue. As well as that, their advice for good maintenance of the DPF system however is similar to what's been said here: Don't use supermarket diesel Use Premium fuel if you can Use things like Millers Additive in your fuel Give the engine regular motorway journies Sorry if that's teaching anyone to suck eggs but that's a complete run down of what has happened so far
    1 point
  46. This is the only way to do it without breaking them.
    1 point
  47. If they are plastic then they have probably faded. Try some โ€œback to blackโ€ or some other suitable restorative.
    1 point
  48. Hi, I've just had my 2017 2.0d 177 bhp XE auto remapped/carbon cleaned and my findings are as follows: oh and yes, I know it's not an XF but thought this may add value to someones decision making. 1.Engine is definately quieter on start up and idling especially when cold. 2. Gearbox shifts only slightly quicker however the low speed lag appears to be significantly lessened if not totally diminished. 3. The 210 bhp and 490Nm torque appears well suited to the car, which in my opinion is under tuned by around 40-50bhp. 4. Driving in dynamic mode and or S, lowers the 0-60 mph around 7.0 secs from 7.6 secs. Overall pretty positive and I believe as long as I don't drive like I've stolen her, longevity of parts such as turbo, clutch, transmission shouldn't significantly age prematurely. All in all a smoother more comfortable drive but not enough power to throw you back into the seat, Hope this helps.
    1 point
  49. Hi there, I have Bosch wiper blades fitted to my 2014 model. Sp21 on the passenger side and Sp21S on the drivers side. As you can see. both mine are the same size, but the drivers side is fitted with a spoiler.
    1 point
  50. hi' I'm towing with a 2.8 td Cherokee and it's fine, with an altko stabliser there is no snaking, the jeep is 150 hp half an xk8, I would never trust welding the chassis, removable nuts and bolts only, apart from handling I never tow over fifty, the balance of the caravan is very important thankyou, everyone,
    1 point
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