cosmicma
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Posts posted by cosmicma
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what causes the ABS to kick in when it's not supposed to is the speed signal being interrupted
not enough to throw a fault up but enough to fool the system into thinking a wheel has locked
the trouble is because a wheel hasn't actually locked it's hard to determine which sensor is at fault you really need to be looking at live data to see which wheel sensor is causing the problem
rest assured it will give a fault eventually
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iv'e come across it twice but both on hondas not jags
both times it was a failing ABS wheel sensor -
12 minutes ago, DavidR said:
Thanks again @cosmicma - you're on fire today!!
Could you advise where you got the D2B Optical link please?
Cheers
i got the optical cable with the CDC i used it to modify the existing cable to accommodate the CDC
iv'e seen a few on eBay for sale on there own or maybe put a shout out on one of the facebook pages
and yea it's a slow day 🙂- 1
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have a read of this it seems as if it's not as simple as just replacing the cd player
https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=34299 -
mine didn't have the CDC as standard and fitting one was very straightforward once you have the bits you need
along with the CDC you will also need the D2B optical link cable so you can daisy chain the CDC into the fibre optic loop
each component needs to be connected in a particular order
CD Autochanger
Telephone Module
Voice Module
Navigation Control Module
Power Amplifier
Then back to the Audio Head Unit
ignore the components you don't have
a typical setup on a non premium audio would be CDC , bluetooth telephone module , SatNav module and they would be linked with the D2B optical cable in that order
your D2B fibre optic cable comes as a pair ( 1 in 1 out ) you need to follow the in and out path of each component to make sure your connecting them in the right order
the plugs on the D2B optic cable can be pulled apart which makes it quite easy modify the overall loop to configure the cable to what you have installed it's just a matter of maintaining the loop from start to finish in the right order
on the wiring loom behind the satnav module you will see a small 3 pin connector which is used to supply power to the cdc unitgood luck...
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there is no factory fit options to play music over blue tooth it sounds like whatever is in your mates car will be an after market product
however there are ways round this with some already mentionedcheapest option is to buy a bluetooth FM transmitter from the likes of eBay or banggood
something like this which i have ordered and am waiting to arrivethere dozens of different type of these bluetooth to FM transmitters but essentially there all the same
iv'e tried one and for the money they are surprisingly goodsome people have fitted the parrot hands free kits which i believe allow music streaming
there are DIY options one known as Jagdroid which looks quite involving to fit
there'a also the optional extra ACM unit that replaces the CD multi changer in the boot and gives Ipod connection , Aux and USB inputs but no bluetooth music streaming but these are expensive and hard to finda few people have gone down the 3rd party avenue and fitted full blown android head units and discarded the factory fit but if you have satnav you will need the non satnav climate control unit as this is part of the multi display head unit, you will also lose all other functions this controls like bluetooth phone and cd multi changer but the android head unit should make up for the loss with it's own functions
iv'e left the factory options alone and play cd's through the multichanger and ordered on of the transmitters above in case i want to stream music
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either way if the disks had fractures they would have to replaced anyway and that usually means new pads to go with the new disks
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the 2ltr diesel doesn't have a DPF so i think we can count that out
these cars go into limp mode for a variety of reasons i would start by getting the fault codes read and see where they point to
if you want to do a bit of investigative work your self i would start with the cheapest options first
check that the turbo actuator is moving as it should, there is a cir clip on the actuator arm that is easy to remove allowing you to check if the vanes in the turbo are moving freely along their full travel
the coil tends to flash on startup or very shortly after starting if the turbo vanes are gummed up but this is not the only reason why the coil light flashes it's just one of em
check the EGR pipes for splitting especially the one directly below the EGR valve
symptoms can be flashing coil light, limp mode and loads of smoke when trying to accelerate hard
a seized EGR valve can cause limp mode too
when was the fuel filter last changed ?after checking the EGR valve and surrounding pipes and the turbo actuator and vanes for gumming up things start to get a little more expensive
doing whats know as an injector leak off test can tell you if the injectors are good or bad but things start to get expensive from there on
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i would start at the fuel filter
make sure the water drain off tap at the bottom of the filter is tight or maybe a quality replacement filter -
couple of things to look at
make sure the slide pins are not seizedput a little smear of copper grease on the back of the pads
check the pistons for corrosion that can cause brake binding
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might be the coil packs breaking down
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do you have satnav ?
the thing in the boot could be one of 2 things, if you have satnav it will be the satnav dvd moduleif no satnav it will be a CDC ( cd changer ) that takes 6 discs via a cd cassette , there should be a button on the cd player in the dash marked CDC
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might be worth putting some injector cleaner in the tank
wait till your low on fuel and put a couple of bottles in to make it a little more concentrated then take it for a blast
do this just before it is due it's re test -
simple check
if it has indicators in the mirrors it is the face lift model
if not it's pre 2007 / 2008
other things are smooth bumpers, pre face lift have trim ( sometimes chrome ) in the bumper cornersthe chrome strip on the boot goes all the way across on the face lift it doesn't on the pre 2007 / 2008 models
face lift model
pre face lift model
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iv'e just done the same job last sunday
to change the top pulley you need to take the alternator off so you can access the bracket the pulley is attached to which also enables you to get the tensioner offto get the tensioner and top pulley out through the wheel arch it makes the job a lot easier if you undo the top bolt of the drop link so you can move it out of the way , you'l see what i mean when you try to get it out 🙂
the other pulley is a pig to get off because there isn't enough room engine to inner wing to get it off the bolt, you need to take the engine mount off and under tray so you can put a trolley jack under the engine to lower / raise it to get the damn thing off
remember to feed the aux belt through the tensioner pulley before you bolt it all back together there isn't enough room once it's bolted into place
good luck...
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it's probably the button itself but news is not bad where the remote fobs are concerned
i have a similar problem with both my remote fobs so bought a couple of these from here
very easy to program to the car and work very well
as you already know the key fob is 2 seperate pieces it's a simple matter of putting your original key bit to the new remote part ( might be teaching you how to suck eggs here 🙂 )
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i thought i would introduce myself seeing iv'e just joined 🙂
Bought a 2010 2.0l x type jag last thursday which seems really good value for the money
much more comfortable than the 2.2 diesel honda civic it's replacing
early days yet but i have a to do list for it, first thing iv'e changed are the headlamp bulbs for some Philips extreme vision thingy's which boast up to 130% brighter the standard bulbs are poor to say the least
one thing that has put a smile on my face is the price of parts compared to hondas, much cheaper for some reason
X-Type ABS issue
in Jaguar X-Type Club
Posted
live data should show whats going on
if you can record the data that would be even better