Jimbob64

Wow, I thought I had updated this thread...

The Jag was fixed eventually. Turned out the new alternator was faulty (or at least had compatability issues with the ecu) so took a punt and fitted another. After a reset all was fixed. I had loads of help and advice from many people so thanks to all.

On a sadder note, it was written off earlier this year and is no more 🥲

I'm selling all of the modules I bought on eBay atm so if anyone is interested give me a shout.

Adios.

14 minutes ago, mervyncp said:

Jimbo64  could you tell us where you sourced your Mongoose OBD Cable & SDD software perhaps with relevant links?

Have you fixed your problem yet?

Best regards

Mervyn

Hi all. I was going to update when the vehicle was up and running. It's still not.

To save a lengthy post see: https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/help-with-sdd-smartkey-problem-and-others.113707/#post-2885067

I'm currently in the process of replacing the GWM and DBM to try and cure the battery not charging issue. The key problem was easy to sort (but will reoccur if CJB is not replaced/flashed). If and when I sort the charging problem I will remove the CJB and have it flashed.

I've also been very busy so haven't had the time to work on the Jag - I'll update when things change.

This is the cable and software - https://www.obdiitool.co.uk/wholesale/jlr-mangoose-sdd-pro.html

The software (V160) and cable were£32.00 and take about a week to arrive.

I use mine on Windows 10 pro (took a while to install correctly)

Good luck

on another note, I managed to restore the central locking using the SDD setup 🥂

Another update...

I couldn't easily get the vehicle to a suitable garage due to my location and distance required to drive so I got myself a Mongoose OBD cable and SDD software and after much hair pulling I managed to get some success...

It appears that my fault is down to the dual battery fuse box (part number - CX23-14K131-BC)

It's easy enought to get to and replace, I just have to find one now...

If anyone has one hanging around in their shed/kitchen draw/man cave then please give me a shout..

13 hours ago, Big John said:

Hi James

Only useful thing I can add is here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/2010XFRWorkshop.pdf which is a really big file to dowload. Other possible sources that may help are here http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFElectricalOBDIICodes.htm and here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Battery and Charging System.pdf

When you've looked at some of these manuals you will see just how many sources of the problem there could be. I would certainly need a garage to sort it 😞

Really hope you get it sorted.

John

 

Thanks again John. I'll have a look at those dowloads although you are correct in your assumption that it needs a garage to sort... I'm trying to find someone local who has the SDD set up who might be able to generate a proper code.

Cheers.

3 minutes ago, Big John said:

Hi James.

I am assuming that the problem now is the warning message. Have you watched the voltage with the engine running? A real problem with charging should flatten the battery pretty quickly. My gut feeling is that you have a software issue and basically it needs a Ctrl+Alt+Delete to clear the error message. To do this you either need the proper Jaguar computer or a garage with the Autologic system (and the know-how to use it properly). If it was me I would bite the bullet and get a diagnostic from a Jag dealer. I had an issue with my parking sensors / camera and have a really good warranty from the non-jag vendor. They could not sort it (replaced the sensor their computer said, and it still didn't work). So I took it to Inchcape Jaguar in Preston after agreeing a diagnostic at a cost of £100 +Vat. which I felt was no where near as scarry as I expected. They diagnosed front bumper wiring loom and replaced it (not covered by warranty) for less than £300 inc VAT. The genuine loom was £48 inc VAT when used ones are on eBay for £100 so maybe worth biting the bullet. If it is just software issue it might get sorted within the hour they charge for a diagnostic assessment.

Good Luck

John

Hi John. I've checked the voltage with engine under load (12.0v), at tickover (12.2) and engine off (12.4v). It appears not to be charging at all - I can drive around 40 miles before other fault messages occur on the dash and by this time the battery voltage has dropped to around 11.7v and causes a gearbox fault and the power steering stops working... I then recharge battery and all other faults are gone, just the battery not charging warning written on the dash. I've reset the BMS each time the battery has been disconnected, checked all fuses with a meter and done a visual check along all plugs and cables.

My nearest dealer is about 70 miles away, although the autologic garage is a bit nearer. I just don't want to break down and have to be recovered...

Hi all. I'm no further along with this as I've not had much time. If anyone has anything extra to add I would be extremely grateful.

So far:

New battery, new BMS module, new Alternator and visual check and clean of rear junction box.

I don't have access to a proper code reader, local garage has a basic one which gives a fault - P065C - which is a general generator fault.

I am thinking of buying a mongoose cable and SDD set up but having never used them I'm concerned that I won't understand fully how to use it...

I live in a rural location so driving any distance for a diagnostic is out of the question as I probably wouldn't make it home again.

Thanks.

So, another update.

Replaced BMS module (on -ve lead), no change so bit the bullet and replaced alternator, no change...

Pulling hair out so removed batteries and carriers to access fuse box underneath the small battery, found some corrosion on the bottom connector. Cleaned corrosion, checked fuses, checked relays (visual check), all looking good so reassemble - NO CHANGE STILL...

If anyone out there has any thoughts, be my guest... 

P.S. Had codes read at local indy, just said generator fault...

2 minutes ago, Big John said:

Hi James

Just a thought but is the new battery an AGM? If previous one was a wet-cell that would explain its premature failure.

John

No, both AGM

7 minutes ago, Big John said:

Hi James

When you say you have put a meter on the terminals are you just measuring voltage at the terminals of the secondary and main batteries with the engine running? Secondary battery is normally not connected to the charging circuit except when charging so you are probably just measuring the secondary battery resting voltage. If the main battery voltage shows as 12.2v when engine running but then slowly rises after you turn off and lock the car the computer is almost certainly running down the battery doing a self calibration. When it gets to 75% of capacity it will then fully recharge the battery.  This behaviour caused me a few days of panic before I found the info on the web. My hope would be that is where you are but you probably need to pull the fault codes to be sure. The computers hate low voltage so hopefully the codes need clearing and possible some modules just need a reset. Fingers crossed

John

Cheers John, I've measured the voltages of both batteries, engine off, running, and under load. The small battery behaves normally in all of those conditions (13.30v, 13.37v, 14.00v)Large battery reads: engine off - 12.48v, engine running - 12.24v, under load - 12.00v

As the small battery behaves normally, I'm hoping you are correct. I will see how it behaves over the next few days.

Unfortunately I dont have access to a code reader at the moment so can't do any more than monitor.

Thanks,

James.

It seems my current problem is bigger than before. Just put the new battery on but still have the battery not charging light on the dash.

I've put a meter on the terminals and it appears that the large battery isn't charging. The small battery is charging as normal so I presume the alternator is ok...

Anyone have any wise thoughts?

Thanks,

James.

55 minutes ago, mervyncp said:

The disappointing thing is Jimbo that you've confirmed that the problem returns when the battery is disconnected again.  I suppose the only permanent fix is to replace the relevant modules..
For information, who is it that you have found can do it nearer to you??

Regards

Mervyn

http://www.garejarwyn.co.uk

Garej Arwyn’s Garage in Caernarfon has the Autologic software - I've not called them to see if they have done this particular job though

Just to bring this thread back to life, I have had a recurrance of this issue. Short story - Wife driving away from home and battery not charging light come on dash. She drove home approx 2 hrs and by the time she got home all manner of warning lights were showing. Had battery checked and confirmed that the battery had failed (13 months old) and was showing 64% on my local garage machine. New battery being installed today but the central locking isn't working and I'm pretty sure I will have to have a trip to a garage using Autologic software - luckily I've found one closer to home (although MDM were brilliant...).

Watch this space...

47 minutes ago, mervyncp said:

 

Always connect (via jump leads) a spare, fully charged battery to the + and - leads whilst changing the battery - I learned my lesson...

Fantastic.

I thought it was something like that but didn't want to get your hopes up.

Mention the forum (and the chap with the sport brake who had the key cover).

I honestly can't remember as they also sprayed and supplied a lock cover for me. Give them a call and explain the problem - they are familiar with it now so should be able to give a rough idea of cost.

1 hour ago, Nuttyspark said:

This may well be a big no no with Jaguars but last time I changed a battery I knew that there would be issues with radio codes, window memory, central locking etc so I decided to do a little experiment. I connected my battery charger to the cables before I disconnected them. Switched on the charger, disconnected the cables, swapped the batteries, reconnected the cables switched off and disconnected the charger and the car worked exactly the way it did before I changed the battery! ZERO problems! 😉

7 minutes ago, rodeyorks said:

Hi Ian, Thats what my local garage does except he uses another battery in lieu of a charger and never had a problem.

Cheers

Rod

My garage did the latter, however the voltage in the donor battery was lower than required and still triggered the problem. A freshly charged battery or a charger is the best way to go.

20 minutes ago, Jagmanz said:

It’s in the owners hand book, no diagnostic tool required. Manually unlock all the doors inside the car, remove the emergency lock cover on the outside passenger front door handle, using the emergency key blade from inside the key fob turn and hold the lock to the unlock position and press and hold the unlock button on the fob and it should re-synchronise the key fob to the car.

Doesn’t work in this instance... (ymmv)

On 2/29/2020 at 1:55 PM, Allandon said:

Hi everyone, was going to start a new thread but decided to piggy back on this as the issues I've just encountered are very similar. Was getting messages on start up about low battery and "system will shut down in 1 minte" (never did). Plus the air vents wouldn't open as normal on start up and the eco stop / start wouldn't work. No loss that last one as I  can't stand it and usually switch it off whist driving. Anyhoo, decided to invest in a new battery. It's a 2013 XF 3.0 Portfolio that I've had since August 2017 so I figured if it was the original battery then it could do with changing anyway.

Technician friend of mind changed the battery this morning. Obviously had to reset the clock etc and all seemed ok until I locked the car using the fob. The mirrors wouldn't fold as they previously did. Also, upon clicking the fob twice as I always have there was the usual beep upon the second click (which was when the mirrors used to automatically fold). But now, not only do the mirrors NOT automatically fold as before but after a few moments there was a further, louder double beep - something I have never heard before. Opened the car again and went through all the settings - all set back to as before the battery change (twice) - locked the car again with a doule click and exactly the same. Ended up, opening the car once again, folding the mirrors using the door buttons and then just double click locking the car up and leaving it.

Reading through this thread I now presume that a recoding might be necessary??

Find the nearest garage with an Autologic machine and book it in. Takes about 10-15 minutes.

17 hours ago, lawrenso said:

Thanks James, going to see them on Wednesday - I am from Flintshire and had no joy finding anywhere local to do this - I was going to travel to EE services in MK but this will save me at least 2 hours

The guy there knows who you are as well 🙂

Fantastic, It's great to pass it along... I'm in Dolgellau but have family in Leics. so made a short weekend of it.

I'm going back in a couple of weeks to have a second key coded too.

Hi.

I wanted to add to this thread as I encountered the same problem after a local garage installed a new battery for me. Without all the detail, their Autel system wouldn't reprogram so I went to another placewith the JLR software which also didn't work... I then came across this thread and booked in with a garage who use the Autogic software. 10 minute and on my way, all done. They're an indy Jag specialist.

MDM Services
Unit 4 Stephenson Industrial Estate
Coalville, Leicester
LE67 3HP
01530 838666

No affiliation at all to said garage but they were fantastic - fitted me in without an appointment and were well priced.
 

(oh, and thanks to the posters who gave this info in the first place )