LairdScooby

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134657907825 There you are Dominic, that should do everything you need it to do and it has free updates via USB so you can download to your PC then link to this unit and update it. Might even get one myself, i have an i-Carsoft JLR OBD-II reader that i bought used but as new condition from someone on here but would be handy to keep one of these in the Honda (especially at the moment!) insted of the i-Carsoft one.

Corona (discharge from HT tracking)

Crikey Dominic, i'd be a cheap neighbour as i barely drink! Was it Southwold? Many pleasure boats seem to find their way there. Switching the EML off just before the MoT is definitely one way round the problem, someone did that with my Honda before i bought it and i've had fun and games sorting it out as it wasn't as simple as a duff sensor! Turned out to be a brake problem that i'm currently fighting my way through - latest thing i will be fitting is a replacement ABS ECU/modulator assembly but many of the problems have been caused by poor and/or neglected servicing. When i get a minute (or 10!) i'll trawl ebay and find what should be a suitable OBD code reader and post a link on here for you.

Greyhound

Motor

Road

Cardinal

It's not quite as scary as it may sond Dominic, on each cat there is a pre-cat and a post-cat Lambda sensor which some refer to as Oxygen sensors. The pre-cat sensors check the mixture as it leaves the cylinders and the post-cat sensors check the mixture to ensure there is a higher oxygen content (and therefore lower CO content) to make certain the cats are working. These sensors have an internal heater to get them to work faster from cold, if it's one of the heaters gone then that sensor won't respond as it should but economy and performance should remain unaffected. It will bring the EML on though as the ECU will detect the heater not working. Sometimes people misinterpret the heater not working as the cat not getting up to temperature and not working, this isn't always the case though. This is why i asked for the exact code you were getting. I thought you had a code reader from how you mentioned things earlier but re-reading it, i think i was wrong. It's worth investing in even a cheap one so you can read (and often reset) the codes yourself. You can pick them up on ebay for under £20, there are some under a tenner even but very basic. Will be interested in hearing what this new garage has to say - also it's an MoT failure to have an EML on at the time of the test.

Point

Sentence

Tiara

Railway

What is the exact code the is reported Dominic? Usually the Lambda sensors fail rather than the cats and they are considerably cheaper to replace (but ideally need to be replaced as a full set) so i'd be checking the exact code number to ascertain whether it is the Lambda sensor, the heater in the Lambda sensor or whether it is in fact the cat. With the EML on, you'll be in restricted performance of some description even if not full Limp Mode so you'll have higher fuel bills and reduced performance.

Thanks Dominic. I've learned a lot about the S Type in the past 18 months or so, it's my 3rd Jag and a total departure from the previous two, a Series III XJ6 Sovereign 4.2 and an XJ40 Sovereign 3.6 - in many respects the S Type is in a bit of a world of its own. Hope your recovery continues well!

Burglar

Wise

Minute

Cambridge (a place near Newnham without a Bottom!)

I also try to keep my diet healthy (ish) Dominic for a variety of medical reasons but something i do every morning is instead of sweetener in my second coffee, i have two spoons of runny honey - the natural antiseptic/immune boosting effect seems to ward off most common ills thankfully. Hmmm, i wonder if perhaps the garage wanted the job of replacing the headlamp to boost their labour revenue? When i first got my S Type, it had fairly bad cataracts on the headlamps and for some unknown reason, people kept flashing me on my first nocturnal outing in it. The lack of forward vision was worrying but i did notice the lights seemed to be pointing everywhere except where they should be! Further investigation found the adjuster were siezed and broken, allowing the reflectors to move around like a loose leaf in autumn. A reproduction kit from ebay fixed the adjusters and T-Cut and elbow grease polished the lenses back to clear. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225508928142 I needed an extra 2 sets of cogs (one per headlight) as there is only one per headlight supplied. These are for the normal headlights with halogen bulbs (i've fitted LED bulbs in the outer pair, vast improvement!), not the HID/Xenon variety as fitted to the S Type R and (i believe) optional on others. As far as i'm aware, the normal headlights were the same across production years but make sure the connector plugs look the same just to be on the safe side. So far, all parts i've wanted/needed have been available on ebay but it's often helped that i am able to do research into what else fits, even if not listed as fitting. For example, a new crank position sensor (CPS) i had to fit just over a year ago : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234276747755 Jaguar and specialists wanted 10x that amount! 😮 Also ordered a screenwash pump which turned out to be shared with the Volvo S80 and a plethora of Fords from the mid-80s onwards including Sierra, Mondeo, transit and other models - Jaguar = £96, Volvo = £48, Ford £24 all for the same pump, ebay £8. I believe they changed the pump on 2002 onwards cars so this may not be relevant for yours but you get the idea!

No problem Dominic, if you are assured of a good local supply of LPG for the foreseeable future i'd definitely recommend it. Hope you get over your reaction to your double-jab soon, i politely declined mine this year!

Six-Mile (a place near me)

It will suit any car as long as the engine gets to a certain temperature during each journey. The performance is the same (possibly better as LPG is ~105RON) and as mentioned above, the economy is a smidge down but at ~£1/L for my nearest place that doesn't really matter. If i'm near a Morrisons i try to fill up there as they are about 80p/L but the seem to be phasing it out. There's a station in Dorch at 99.9p/L as of yesterday and one in Wallisdown, Bournemouth and another in Swanage, both at similar prices. Not sure exactly where you are but you mentioned going from weymouth to Dorch before so you should be able to fill up somewhere. https://www.filllpg.co.uk/index.php?page=lpg.php If you type Dorset into the "Search for area" box it'll show you where and how much and if you click on the price/location flags, it gives you detailed info of exact price, when updated and so on. Modifications - needs an add-on LPG ECU, tank and injectors and asociated parts. Mine is running a BRC system, good when it works but i had a bad experience with a BRC system on a Jeep Cherokee several years back so not my favourite brand. That said, it works well, changeover is seamless and it can be switched back to petrol if needed or switches back automatically if the LPG runs out. I only do ~5k miles a year as well but would still recommend it - installation costs might take a while to recoup though. Bought the car with it already on there which was useful. Owned a few LPG vehicles in the past and converted 1 myself, definitely better for the evironment, your pocket and also your engine - it burns cleaner so less oil contamination. An excellent choice - i was going to fit those to mine but the price earlier this year was nearly £150/tyre! Settled on Maxxis Primetra which so far have performed as well as the Falken Ziex ZE-914s i had on my Rover but at ~£350 for 4 was a considerable saving on the Falkens but similar reviews. Whether they still perform as well in a years time remains to be seen, if not then it'll be a set of Falkens bought piecemeal and then fitted as a set. My insurance isn't agreed value (but is classic) and cost a bit more than yours, not much but given our different areas, i've experienced a similar difference in the past. Peter James were quoting a lot more than what i'm paying for some odd reason. Surprised you needed a rebuilt gearbox, both the ZF and AW boxes (mostly ZF on the 740 GLE) were sturdy boxes, same as fitted to the 1986 on Jag models including the XJ40 models. I suspect it probably just needed an ATF change and paybe a new filter and sump gasket and the garage was trying to make some money. I had three 740GLE auto estates before the 760 GLE auto estate, all good cars but i needed something easier to get into and preferably newer with fewer things likely to wear out through age. Had a litany of problems with the CR-V largely due to neglected servicing. Latest problems (after renewing the front caliper guide pins) is the brake fluid is waterlogged so that's the next job for the Honda. There you go, taken while fitting new plates and because of the slight curve on the front plinth, i had to leave it like that for a few days facing the sun for the new plate to stick properly on the plinth - it had fallen off because i didn't do that and i still have a long cable tie on each end with a cut piece of chopstick at the top to help the top corners curve as they should. Must take those off soon! A couple of other relatively recent mods include the clear side repeaters and Adamesh stainless back boxes plus some logo puddle lamps that display the JAGUAR name and leaper on the tarmac with the door open at night. No pic of the logo lights as yet though! Enjoy your weekend!

Base

Train (from me mishearing Freight train, freight train, going so fast when i was about 4 years old!)

You're welcome Dominic, i've achieved similar figures from mine on longer runs, for example a trip last year to the Kinson area of Bournemouth for a friend to collect a car he bought on ebay returned 31mpg. I should add mine is on LPG so the general multiplier to get the "correct" petrol consumption is 1.3 so arguably i would have returned ~40mpg on petrol. Knowing the roads you mention and roughly what i get around here on similar roads (but without the hills) i generally get 27mpg which works out ~35mpg when "corrected". Where possible, on unrestricted roads, i try to keep my speed at an indicated 78-80mph which is (by GPS) a real 73-75mph as i've found this gives the best economy on a longer run, ~2500rpm so the engine is just into the power band properly. Talking of winter motoring, i had a nasty scare last year when i encountered some ice and nearly got intimate with a telegraph pole. Since fitted a new set of tyres as the ones on there were all 10+ years old and had obviously gone hard, despite having good tread. At the time my other car was a Volvo 760 GLE on near new cheap tyres and that had gone round the same junction without even a twitch hence pointing to the tyres being the cause of the problem. If your tyres aren't reasonably new, it would be worth double checking them before winter in the light of this. 😉 😄