LairdScooby

Put all the windows down and then spray silicone lube spray into the top of the window channels for a few seconds, preferably using one of those long spouts. Only spray onto the vertical/near vertical parts of the window channels. Once all sprayed, start the car (to avoid flattening the battery) and exrecise all windows up and down several times. Not sure if you have Toolstation in Eire but this is the sort of stuff : https://www.toolstation.com/action-can-sp-90-silicone-lubricant/p34151 It's also good for spraying on door seals, leave to soak and then gently wipe off the excess to help prevent the door seal freezing to the doors in cold weather.

Friend of mine had this on a Merc recently, turned out to be throttle switch giving a false idle situation to the ECU - might be worth looking at. The logic behind it was you don't want the engine revving when you're meant to be at idle or braking etc.

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

This might be a solution for you but you'd need to get the right one for your car : Obviously yours is newer and the "updated" S Type but there should be a bespoke kit for yours.

Welcome aboard! I'm sure if you have any questions if you post them in the correct area you'll get a fairly quick answer. Meanwhile some pics of your Sportbrake would be nice! If you use a photohisting service such as PostImage or similar, use the "Direct link" code to post your photo.

I would suggest you drive it somewhere very carefully where someone with more mechanical skills can assess the problem. Several possible causes come to mind such as air in the system, dirty/old fluid, siezed calipers, weak/broken seal in master cylinder - there are many other possibilities. It would need to be seen/diagnosed by someone rather than "remote diagnostics" on the forum. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

First thing i would do is pull and refit all the light fuses for the lights concerned. Over time, corrosion builds on the fuse blades, pulling them out and refitting cleans them. If the problem comes back, renew the fuses. If it still comes back, put another post up as it will be something deeper.

Have you checked the CPS (Crank Position Sensor)? They have a habit of going with no warning, no spark and Jaguar want a small fortune for them. However you can get them on ebay for ~£15, i did for my S Type 3.0 which uses the same as most petrol V8s/V6s, the Ford Thunderbird and Lincoln LS of similar years. They're a bit of a faff to change but a relatively cheap and easy fix, best approached from underneath so a good jack and axle stands are needed.

I'm assuming when you say "bearing" you actually mean the plastic bushes in the linkage? If so, try this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146139281240 I bought a similar kit for my Honda CR-V some 2-3 years ago and it's working as well now as it did when i fitted it after a similar game to yours of replacing the entire linkage and motor assembly only to find it came from a Japanese (instead of Swindon like mine) built CR-V so had some wiring problems. Glad you mentioned this as mine is starting to wear on my '99 S Type so i had to search for the part you need and the part i need! With absolutely no sarcasm intended, thanks for having this problem! It's what the forum is all about - one person has a problem without an immediate solution but someone, somewhere has and has the easy solution.

That sounds like you may have a dodgy height sensor (one on each corner) and it's ok until it warms up and then breaks the connection. You might fix it by unplugging all the sensors and spraying the plugs connector pins with contact cleaner then reconnecting/disconnecting several times and a last spray of contact cleaner before reconnecting the last time. This by its very nature will be a temporary fix and the problem is likely to come back if it effects a fix to start with. However it might confirm that's where the fault lies.

I have a similar thing on my 99 S Type, if i open the boot before arming the alarm, often it will not arm/set. If i open and close one of the doors (drivers door usually) i can then set the alarm. I've put this down to perhaps a worn door open switch on the drivers door or possibly whichever module (BCM perhaps) not recognising all doors are shut. It sounds to me as if you have a similar problem brewing but in a later stage. Also worth checking to see if it does it with your spare key, if it doesn't, get yourself a replacement spare and start using the spare key.

You're welcome, good luck with whatever you go for.

First thing that springs to mind would be this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/357133847843 There are cheaper Chinese units available, i picked that one to give you an idea whats available. My own S Type is a 1999 model so has the older style dash and no "off the shelf" option so i bought a dead stereo with the right colour surround and built a 9" Android unit into it - i must finish the job and get it fitted!

As i always say, it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Even new cars break down and the cost of AA cover Vs the cost of an enforced motorway tow is comparatively nothing.

When you pay others to perform a service, no matter what that service is, you expect a certain level of professionalism. Leaving oil out of an engine after an oil/filter change is not just lack of professianalism but careless too as they no doubt had to park the car in the Service car park ready for collection. I'm sure the sound it made wouldn't have been nice (imagine a bag of spanners in a metal bin inside a tumble dryer!) so not only should the mechanic who did the job have noticed but all his colleagues too. I'm no legal expert but would certainly think you have a very strong case for negligence on this and therefore the dealer should fit a reconditioned engine at their cost IMHO. Also having paid for that professionalism, you should not need to check the oil before leaving - that's what you have just paid for!

I know many f us on here have the i-Carsoft JLR scanner, yes it costs more than your average AliExpress/ebay/Temu "jack of all trades" scanner but is worth it for the bespoke options it provides. Opinions may vary on the exact brand but a dedicated scanner/OBD-II reader is the way to go for what you need/want.

Hi Lez, you could try these people : https://www.warrantywise.co.uk/car-warranty/?utm_adgroup=used car warranty - exact&msclkid=8f613d35c856159b35e35438d16a7938&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Used Car Warranty - Exact Match&utm_term=Used Car Warranty&utm_content=Used Car Warranty - Exact There are other companies around that do similar where you can buy a warranty for a used car you've recently bought, good luck with it!

Press the lock/arm button on the fob rapidly about 6-10 times. Also if you have a spare key, check whether it will start with that, it's not unknown for a key with an RFID chip inside for the immobiliser to "lose" it's code and cease to operate the immobiliser disarm. Are you able to read the DTCs at all?

I came across Suffolk Sportscars (as i think they were called then) some 35 years ago when their range was just the one model, think it was a D Type replica or similar. First time i've seen one of their SS100 models and first knowledge i had of that model reincarnation. Beautiful to see and learn of its existence though.

Friendly local Timpsons?

What i did was got some 5mm thick angle aluminium, drilled some holes in the right place and fitted nutserts in. Then using some penny washers through the remains of the crash bar, bolted the aluminium to it. Then (i'd previously drilled holes and nutserts for the exhaust hanger) i bolted the hanger to it. Nobody would ever know and Mr MoT man gave a nod of approval.

Very likely to be the cause! Good luck with the clean up!

It does take time for the refrigerant to cycle through the system cooling as it goes, yes. You may be a little low on refrigerant or perhaps the pollen filter is blocked, both of which will slow things down. Also if your TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) is blocked or lazy this will slow things down further. However the work required to change the TXV is a lot so you'd have to consider the possible gains against doing the job. When i was working on brand new cars 30 years ago, the usual figure was at least 10 minutes before the AC started "pulling down" - that's in the UK so in the warmth of Sri Lanka, i'd expect another 5-10 minutes. The AC hasn't worked in my S Type since getting it so i can't offer a comparative figure but hoping to get it sorted fairly soon.

To be honest, 15-20 mminutes doesn't sound too bad. What part of the world are you in? If it's a hot climate, it could reasonably take longer than normal.

Are your headlamps LED or HID? If neither you could probably get away with non-adaptive (as a general rule of thumb) but i would anticipate lots of error messages and potential MoT (or Spansih equivalent) failures.