keithstype27

Hi, This is not an appeal for help (although any additional knowledge is always gratefully received) but more of a guide to my current problem and how I've gone about fixing it so far in the hope that it may prove helpful for other S Type owners. My car is a 2007 S Type 2.7 diesel. Automatic. 131k miles Last year (Jan-Feb 2020) I had to replace the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) because the cable from the actuator had corroded and snapped. This meant that the EPB could not be applied. This time (Jan 2021) it is the opposite, the EPB was stuck on and would not release. My Jaguar/Landrover specific reader displayed continuing code (DTC C1785 "EPB MOTOR OUTPUT OPEN CIRCUIT." My Battery is 2 years old and is 105Ah 850CCA reading 12.55volts. As I don't use the car often and only for trips of around 6 miles each way, I charged the battery for several hours. When I took it off charge its reading was 12.73 volts and the EPB still would not release. I then shimmied under the car to manually inspect the brake cables from the actuator and to each rear wheel. All were ok and very taught. I then tried the EPB release/reset advice on this forum of removing the two multi wiring plugs from the EPB control Module in the boot (on the sidewall of the boot under the cover, just above the battery). I removed these plugs with the car running and with the car ignition off but the EPB was still on. I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and reconnected it but still the EPB was on. I also tried to drive the car forward and backward to release the EPB bu it did not release. I finally removed the left (smaller) multi wire plug, and connected the two thick wires (a green/white and a red/white) direct to the battery. The first time I heard the EPB actuator clicking each time I made the connection so I reversed the wires to the battery and the EPB released. Now, here is my thought process......The EPB Contol Module receives messages from the switch in the centre console area and also when you drive away with the EPB on,( ie the EPB releases automatically). 1. If the actuator works when connected direct from the battery, the actuator cannot be faulty. 2. If the EPB did not release by the switch or by driving the car forward/backward, the fault must be in the Control Module itself. I have now ordered a (used) replacement EPB Module. The replacement has all the same numbers as my original EP module, including the REV letter (In my case "E") I will update this post once I have fitted the replacement EPB Module next week. Fingers crossed!!!!!!

Cheers Neil, I'll look into that .

As a follow on from my original post - my starting problem has now become much worse. After a period of a day or two, my 2.7diesel S Type (2007) takes ages to start. It cranks readily and with gusto but doesn't catch for approximately 8 seconds. 8 seconds feels like ages when it is continually cranking over. (No problem re starting when engine is warm) Once it has finally started it runs fine with no lumps or lack of power. As it is now June 2020 and the air temperature is warm, it's unlikely to have anything to do with glow plugs. It seems to be more of a fuel supply problem. Oh well, here we go again.....

Hi Ross, Thanks for the post. Very interesting content and food for thought. I still have the starting problem with my 2007 2.7 albeit not as bad as before. In warmer weather it still takes longer than it used to but in the cold weather it is far worse. I may try to get the glow plugs tested in situ and go from there. Take care Keith

Hi Justin, Thanks for the post. Yes, I had to drop the diff' to allow sufficient room to remove and replace the actuator. It is fiddley to remove but does come out. Let me know when you intend to do yours as I have some photos I can share if you wish. Regards Keith

Hi, Welcome. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I fear you may well be disappointed at the response to your car sale price. The low mileage, if accompanied with a full service history, is sure to get you a higher price than usual but still I fear you are only likely to achieve around the £2500 mark. I hope I am wrong (as I have a 2007 2.7 SE) but recent sales on Ebay and similar sales platforms show winning bids of less than £2K for average cars. All the very best with the sale. Keith

I hope so too. Thanks Joe. Regards Keith

Thanks Joe. I eventually managed to get the old actuator out but it was quite awkward and required some colourful metaphors! I had to come back to this forum to check what others have said as I thought maybe I was reading the directions incorrectly. The actuator did come out of the passenger side (uk left) following the path of the actuator cable. It needed much twisting and turning to find the path out. Just a tip for anyone doing this job on their own car, when putting the actuator back in, I found it easier to tape a stiff wire to the electrical connector and then feed that stiff wire back through the correct path first, then pull the actuator connection wires through. This prevents the electrical connector wires from becoming twisted around the actuator or getting snagged as you move the actuator around trying to pull and push the replacement back in. One of the most awkward parts to this job is getting the brake cables disconnected from the 'joiner' situated behind the wheel well. They rust and need lost of releasing fluid and wire brushing to loosen them off. Sometimes the plastic cover coating of the brake cable gets damaged when holding the cable with pliers or grips, exposing the bare metal cable so I painted these areas with enamel brake paint to prevent rust returning. REASON FOR REPLACING ACTUATOR - The cable that runs directly from the actuator is the reason I had to replace the whole shebang. The cable protective covering had been rubbed away against the body and the cable had rusted and snapped. I had the fault message ' Cannot Apply Park Brake' and the faulty code C1802. New rear pads fitted whilst I was at it. Park brake re calibration procedure followed. Job done. Relieved man.

Now having problems getting the disconnected Actuator out - does it follow the path of the cable or does it have to come out somewhere else?

Hi, You may need to find someone with a Jaguar specific code reader who can hook it up and see what codes are displayed.

Thanks Joe. I'm not looking forward to tackling this job!! Keith

Hi, My 2007 S Type 2.7 has recently displayed the fault message 'Parking Brake Cannot Be Applied'. (Fault Code C1802) After checking brake calipers and changing pads etc, I discovered it is a broken cable. The broken cable is not the drivers side or the passenger side brake cable, but appears to come directly from the Actuator situated over the rear differential. Now, here is the question.....can that cable (from the actuator) be replaced and if so how does it attach to the actuator, or, does this require a replacement actuator together with attached cable? (My S Tye has been a challenge recently but still worth keeping)

Thanks for the heads up Colin.

Hi Peter, thanks for the reply to my post. I had a new battery a few months ago and regularly use Millers Eco Plus but it is still hard to start, I now have an additional problem in that the electronic parking brake (EPB) cannot be applied - I've tried the usual reset (battery disconnect) and also by disconnecting the two multi plugs into the EPBCM (control Module) but to no avail. The handbrake will not apply (Code C1802) so I'm now working on that as well. I suspect a seized rear caliper. I love my S Type 2.7 and it is certainly keeping me busy lately!! Keith

Hi Ross, Initially yes. I read that poor fuel filters can clog up quickly and I checked back on my records for my car and found that I had bought a 'no name' (unknown source and make) fuel filter that came with a service kit bought from Ebay. Although it had only been on the car for less than one year and had done just 4k miles, I replaced it with a FRAM filter and the car started much quicker. Since then the car seems to start quicker that it did but still take rather longer to start than it should.

UPDATE - FIXED Replaced switch (stalk) with a used one. All OK. Problem solved.

Thank you Joe for the prompt response. Fingers crossed it'll cure it. I'll update when the stalk has been replaced. Regards Keith

My 2007 S Type 2.7 has developed a fault whereby the main beam headlights come on when I use the indicators. This is day or night and makes no difference whether the dipped beam lights are on or off. It started a year or two ago but began with just the occasional 'sticky' main beam - ie, they didn't go off if I used the 'flash' - so had to be flicked on and off with the main beam stalk to get them to go off again. This problem has developed recently into a potentially dangerous problem in that whenever I use the indicator stalk, the main beam comes on and can't be switched off again by using the stalk - the stalk moves and clicks as usual but the main beam stays on. Other driver may misinterpret this as a sign to go ahead and turn in front of me or pull out in front of me or even a sign of anger on my part. I have ordered a replacement stalk (used) and hope to change it in the next day or so and will keep this topic updated if the problem is solved. Has anyone else had this problem and how did they manage to rectify it?

Having damaged my front off side rim and tyre by hitting a brick in the carriageway today, I find myself in need of a replacement Triton 18 inch rim. Does anyone have one (in good condition) for sale please? I'm near Coventry. Thanks in anticipation Keith

UPDATE Problem solved - at a cost of £27.95p I replaced the fuel filter with a FRAM fuel filter. It took approximately 15 minutes and did not require any priming of the new filter in any way. It took a while to start after the change but once started it has been fine. The existing fuel filter had been fitted in Nov 2018 (one year ago) and had done a total of 4,300 miles. However, it was a 'no name' fuel filter that came together with a service kit. Before the fuel filter change my S Type 2.7 MPG had dropped from 34.4 to 33.7 in a couple of weeks - it has now returned to 34.4 mpg in a couple of days.

Thanks Joe 🙂

Hi Joe, Thank you for your reply and advice. I had assumed that were it glow plugs, there would be a change with the glow plug light on the dashboard. Many thanks Keith

Hi, I had similar problems with my alarm sounder and discovered it was all down to the car battery needing a charge. This was back in 2010 when I bought my S Type 2.7 and it had been standing for a while on a sales forecourt so hadn't been run. After charging the battery with a decent long drive, I've never had a problem with the alarm sounder since. (I recently replaced the original car battery when it was 12 years old)

My 2007 2.7 diesel S Type SE is getting harder to start when cold. It cranks over very well (new battery a few months ago) but just takes a while to fire into life. I have no warning lights on the dash. The glow plug dash light goes out as it should do and all else seems ok. The car runs very well and has also had both EGR valves replaced a few months ago. I have tried a bottle of Forte Diesel Specialist Injector Cleans (400ml) in a full tank of diesel but the tank is now in need of a refill but there has been no improvement. Has anyone had similar problems and if so how did you cure it please? Keith

UPDATE 12th Feb 2019. My Car is now fixed. The mechanic recommended to me by Old Peter (Carl - based in Erdington, Birmingham) took my car away last night and brought it back just after Midday today having replaced both EGR valves. My Jaguar S Type 2.7 Twin Turbo now drives like new again. Whilst there was only one EGR fault code indicating just one faulty EGR valve, it seemed a false economy to replace just one. Carl charged me £420 and also replaced a blown tail light bulb for me. The EGR valves are Lucas OE parts (not budget parts from China) and there is a 12 months parts and labour warranty. An excellent job and super speedy too. I have to send out a big 'thank you' to Moderator/Staff member Old Peter for his continued support and assistance with this problem. My one fear when buying this car over 9 years ago was the potential costs for parts and repairs but thanks to Old Peter and this forum I am a very happy Jag owner once again. I also thank the other members for their contributions. Regards Keith