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keithstype27

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keithstype27 last won the day on January 18

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  • First Name
    Keith
  • Gender *
    Male
  • Jaguar Model
    S-Type
  • Year of Jaguar
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Hi Joe, Many thanks for the advice. I am able to eliminate EPB actuator as being faulty because the actuator works both on and off when connected direct to the battery (connecting to red/white and green/white wires of left side EPB Module multi-plug)This also suggests no wiring issues between the Module plug (black - on left) that takes power down under the car to the actuator. It appears to be sorted (for the moment at least) after tightening up the female side of the pin plugs within the module connectors - maybe they had become slightly loose with the numerous plug ins and plug outs w
  2. Many thanks for the responses and sound advice. The fault DTC C1785 has returned. Each day when I go to start the car I get the same C1785 DTC. Today, wiggling wires and removing/replacing epb plus did not cure it. I have removed, checked and cleaned all fuses relating the the Parking Brake but not relays. I'll check those too. Dam - yes there has been damp in the boot recently (now dried out) but I believe that was from leaking water/ coolant top up bottles I kept in the boot. However, I will monitor to see if any of this abundance of rain is finding a way in. The batter
  3. I have resolved this issue now - it would appear to have been loose wiring or maybe damp in the boot area...not sure which but after drying out the boot and pushing all the EPB module connections in from the rear of their multi plugs, the EPB worked again. I don't know why this didn't work the first time I wiggled the wiring but I'm just glad it's sorted now.
  4. Problem solved.....or should I say 'sorted' as I'm not entirely sure what I did. Let me first say that I have an icarsoft i930 code reader (a must for Jag owners I would suggest - it has saved me a fortune over the last few years) I had already replaced the actuator in Feb 2020 with a used unit. When this most recent fault C1785 occurred a week or so ago, I purchased a new Bosch S5 battery and a replacement (used) EPB Module that had the corresponding codes and revision "E" the same as mine Neither of these steps altered the C1785 DTC and the fault remained.
  5. As part of my continuing wrestle with EPB faults on my 2007 2.7 auto, I have a question to ask of anyone with such knowledge. The EPB throws up the DTC C1785 "EPB Motor open circuit". I have tried a replacement module (of matching codes and revision number) with no change. I have just replaced the 2 yr old battery with a Bosch S5 830 100Ah. Initially, the EPB failed to release when I started the car but after some research on here I tried two wires direct from the battery to the green/white and red/white wires of the multi plug from the module and the Actuator released. The Act
  6. Well, I replaced the EPB Module and it initially generated several additional fault codes within my Icarsoft i930 reader but once those fault codes were cleared, the module behaved in the same way as the original module - ie EPB applied the park brakes and does not release. Fault code C1785 returned. I now need to look elsewhere. A service bulletin relating to the EPB has a section for checking the EPB motor re fault code C1785. It refers to checking the ohm resistance of two pins (pin 1 and pin 6) of the connector CA269, a grey coloured connector situated near the rear suspension
  7. Hi, This is not an appeal for help (although any additional knowledge is always gratefully received) but more of a guide to my current problem and how I've gone about fixing it so far in the hope that it may prove helpful for other S Type owners. My car is a 2007 S Type 2.7 diesel. Automatic. 131k miles Last year (Jan-Feb 2020) I had to replace the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) because the cable from the actuator had corroded and snapped. This meant that the EPB could not be applied. This time (Jan 2021) it is the opposite, the EPB was stuck on and would not release. My Jaguar/
  8. As a follow on from my original post - my starting problem has now become much worse. After a period of a day or two, my 2.7diesel S Type (2007) takes ages to start. It cranks readily and with gusto but doesn't catch for approximately 8 seconds. 8 seconds feels like ages when it is continually cranking over. (No problem re starting when engine is warm) Once it has finally started it runs fine with no lumps or lack of power. As it is now June 2020 and the air temperature is warm, it's unlikely to have anything to do with glow plugs. It seems to be more of a fuel supply problem.
  9. Hi Ross, Thanks for the post. Very interesting content and food for thought. I still have the starting problem with my 2007 2.7 albeit not as bad as before. In warmer weather it still takes longer than it used to but in the cold weather it is far worse. I may try to get the glow plugs tested in situ and go from there. Take care Keith
  10. Hi Justin, Thanks for the post. Yes, I had to drop the diff' to allow sufficient room to remove and replace the actuator. It is fiddley to remove but does come out. Let me know when you intend to do yours as I have some photos I can share if you wish. Regards Keith
  11. Hi, Welcome. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I fear you may well be disappointed at the response to your car sale price. The low mileage, if accompanied with a full service history, is sure to get you a higher price than usual but still I fear you are only likely to achieve around the £2500 mark. I hope I am wrong (as I have a 2007 2.7 SE) but recent sales on Ebay and similar sales platforms show winning bids of less than £2K for average cars. All the very best with the sale. Keith
  12. Thanks Joe. I eventually managed to get the old actuator out but it was quite awkward and required some colourful metaphors! I had to come back to this forum to check what others have said as I thought maybe I was reading the directions incorrectly. The actuator did come out of the passenger side (uk left) following the path of the actuator cable. It needed much twisting and turning to find the path out. Just a tip for anyone doing this job on their own car, when putting the actuator back in, I found it easier to tape a stiff wire to the electrical connector and then feed that s
  13. Now having problems getting the disconnected Actuator out - does it follow the path of the cable or does it have to come out somewhere else?
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