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keithstype27

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keithstype27 last won the day on October 2

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  • First Name
    Keith
  • Gender *
    Male
  • Jaguar Model
    S-Type
  • Year of Jaguar
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. I feel that I have been lucky with my ownership of a 2.7 S Type 2007 auto since 2009 when it was 2 years old. My visits to this forum for advice re car troubles has become more regular over the last 3 years and I have now arrived at the junction where a decision has to be made. I have spent over £1200 on my S Type 2.7 over the last 2 years and have MOT advisories for next year that would mean a few hundred more. It is time to part company. I simply don't like the XF or XE as much as the S Type and as it was the looks and driveability of my S Type that brought me to Jaguar in the first place, I have therefore reluctantly decided to move away from Jaguar altogether for my next vehicle. I am very thankful to all members who have contributed towards my online ramblings whilst trying to keep my S Type running. The membership of this club has been very helpful. These forums almost always have the answer if you search long enough. I wish everyone continued good motoring
  2. Hi Craig, in my experience of owning an S Type 2.7 2007 for 13 years, a poorly charged battery (or indeed a failing/failed battery) can cause numerous dash warning lights but they usually disappear once the battery has been charged or replaced. The act of disconnecting and reconnecting a battery will usually clear the dash lights but the DTC (fault codes) will remain in the cars OBD system. Stored DTC (Fault codes) can be 'cleared' using a suitable machine, in my case I have an icarsoft i930. I would recommend borrowing one or having the cars DTC's checked before purchasing. If the fault code(s) cannot be cleared, they need to be investigated further.
  3. Does anyone know what the fuel rail pressure should be BEFORE starting the engine? I've had 3 years of continuing problems with cold starting (not just in cold weather) with my 2.7 S Type, Whilst attempting to find the cause I have just replaced the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail at the back of the engine. It is awkward to access due to limited space for both hands. However, I managed to replace it and....it's far worse than it was before. Let me first say that the part number of the removed sensor is 55PP04-02 and the replacement is 55PP04-01. (It is virtually impossible to read the part number when the sensor is on the car) My icarsoft i930 code reader Live Data has given me the following readings. Prior to the change of sensor my fuel rail pressure (with engine cold, not running but with ignition on) the rail pressure was reading 210 KPa. Sometimes it would read 430KPa and other times it would read 0KPa that occasionally flashed up to 40KPa as I watched it. This is why I decided to change the sensor as I suspected this may be the cause of the erratic starting crank times. With the new sensor fitted the non running cold engine sensor reading are madly fluctuating around 18000KPa...................When I start the engine the pressure stays around 18000KPa but after 20 or 30 seconds the engine cuts out and the icarsoft i930 displays Fault codes re fuel pressure being out of range. It seems that the sensor number must be exact in order for it to work correctly.
  4. Well, I didn't give up....I replaced the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail at the back of the engine. It is awkward to access due to limited space for both hands. However, I managed to replace it and....it's far worse than it was before. Let me first say that the part number of the removed sensor is 55PP04-02 and the replacement is 55PP04-01. My icarsoft i930 code reader Live Data has given me the following readings. Prior to the change of sensor my fuel rail pressure (with engine cold, not running but with ignition on) the rail pressure was reading 210 KPa. Sometimes it would read 430KPa and other times it would read 0KPa that occasionally flashed up to 40KPa as I watched it. This is why I decided to change the sensor as I suspected this may be the cause of the erratic starting crank times. With the new sensor fitted the non running cold engine sensor reading are madly fluctuating around 18000KPa...................When I start it the pressure stay around the same but the engine cuts out and the icarsoft i930 displays Fault codes re fuel pressure being out of range. It seems that the sensor number must be exact in order for it to work correctly. I have messaged a couple of Ebay sensor sellers to ask for confirmation on the importance of the part number and will update once I know. (It is virtually impossible to read the part number when the sensor is on the car)
  5. After yet another new fuel filter (Bosch this time) my 2.7 diesel still takes three or four cranks to start. I officially give up now.
  6. UPDATE re Inlet Port Deactivation valve (replacement kit). Well, The rubber diaphragm on the drivers side (UK) deactivation port had a small split and so was ineffective. I replaced the diaphragm (with stem, spring and cap) and after reassembling and charging the battery I can report that the poor starting issue IS STILL THERE. My S Type 2.7 runs very well and seems a little smoother but still takes 3 attempts or more to start. The search for the answer continues.
  7. Having cleaned the MAP sensor again (quite dirty) and cleaned both MAF sensors (both seemed ok) the starting problem has not improved. This car has had new EGR valves a couple of years ago (I only do 5k a year) and since then it has been run with a generous portion of Millers Diesel Power Ecomax poured into each tank of diesel fuel. The starting problem has been hit and miss for almost 3 years now. I have today checked the D Port Deactivation valves and found that the left valve (as you face the engine from outside the car) does not hold suction. I have now ordered a diaphragm replacement kit and will update again when it has been fitted. Fingers crossed.
  8. Well, I'm back again....and with the same problem...my 2,7 S Type takes ages to start. It cranks over very well but several seconds before it starts. (No problem starting when the engine is warm) The average temperatures here in the UK at the moment are around 23C so I think it's highly unlikely to be glow plug related. It is NOT the battery - I've just been on a long run (200 miles) and car runs perfectly. Fuel consumption is average at around 34mpg. Over the last couple of years the starting issue has been good and bad...sometimes it seems to start on second turn of key and other times it takes 3 or 4 turns. If I just turn the key and hold it on, it cranks for ages before it starts. I have no smell of diesel - no visible leaks and no reduction in performance. I have NO DTC (fault codes) on my icarsoft diagnostic reader. I have read the swirl flaps (D Port Deactivation valves) can cause poor starting but it seems that this problem is always accompanied by restricted performance light or a noticeable increase in fuel consumption....or both. It feels more like a fuel starvation problem than anything else. Is there any way diesel fuel could drain back if the car has been standing for a day or more?
  9. Very pleased to hear you've got it sorted.
  10. Hi Alan, Thanks for the kind comments. It was a bit of a headache but I'm lucky enough not to need the car on a daily basis so I have time to tackle it myself. Others aren't that fortunate. As an amendment to my resistance readings shown above, the manual states that the resistance between pin 1 and pin 6 in connector CA269 should read less than 5 ohms (not the 0.1 or 0.2 I mentioned...don't know where I got that from!!) On arrival. I tested the new actuator resistance and it measured 0.36 ohms. NO NEED TO CODE. I have read that the actuator needs to be coded to your car by Jaguar........this appears to be incorrect because my new actuator has a different number to the original but still worked instantly without any coding. I have also been in touch with another member of this forum who replaced his actuator with a brand new one (from the same place) and his did not need coding either. It just worked.
  11. Hi Robbo, I understand now that it appears far more involved than a simple parking brake issue. I'm sorry I am unable to offer any insight. However, there are many people on this forum who are extremely knowledgeable who may be able to shed some light on this problem for you. I know it can be a real worry and incredibly frustrating trying to find the cause of an issue but there is no harm in trying and much better than throwing money at it. In my experience, very few 'professional' car repairers want to admit they do not know what is wrong with your car and it usually ends up costing you whilst they fish to find out. Very best wishes for solving the problem.
  12. Hi Robbo, Thanks for your comment on my thread - Yes, I do love my S type (owned since 2010) and will continue to do so...but sometimes it tests me greatly. 🙂 I don't know if I can assist or not but I'm a little confused as to why the auto electrician suspects the electronic parking brake problem would be due to problems with wiring under your front bumper.? Maybe this is simply down to my ignorance. As I said, I may not be able to help but may I ask a couple of questions? What exactly is happening with your electronic parking brake (EPB) when you switch on the ignition? What messages appear on your dash info screen? Is the park brake stuck on or off? Also, has anyone connected a DTC (fault code) reader and if so what faults does it show? Cheers Keith
  13. Brand new actuator fitted. All has been fine for the last 2 days. It appears the problem if finally sorted. HOORAY!!!!!! I bought the brand new, genuine Jaguar EPB actuator from Roger Young Ltd for £255 including VAT and delivery (UK) They do state that this part will need to be encoded to your car. This information apparently comes from Jaguar. I have not had this problem and the new actuator worked instantly. All I needed to do was press the foot brake and hold it down whilst engaging the park brake switch (as you do to re calibrate after battery disconnect or new rear pads). The label on the new actuator showed the same part number but different code and revision number to my original actuator, so it appears this isn't as critical as has been made out.
  14. As per my other thread re this problem, I managed to test the actuator this morning. The Actuator connector CA269 (pins 1 and 6) should give a resistance of 0.1 or 0.2 ohms but my tests showed an open circuit so I have now ordered a brand new Actuator. It appears that all along there has been some sort of intermittent wiring fault within the actuator. I'll update this post once the new actuator has been fitted.
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