johnkarl

thank you for your input. Can you tell me where the brake fluid reservoir is located please on a 2.7 diesel 2006 model

Looks like i am on my own with this one then, i have replaced the module and it has stopped the infernal beep beep, however the brake pad warning light is still on along with the amber light on dash, but the main thing is, the dreaded beep beep has gone thank goodness

Hello, i wonder if any one can help me, i have, not long ago, purchased an s type 2.7 diesel, when i bought the cat, the e-brake was not working, however when you started the car, the message said " unable to apply handbrake " But drove without a noise or warning light , I looked on the forum and it says i can reset the e-Brake by disconnecting the battery for 10 mins [ negative lead ], then reconnect, start car, pump foot brake 5 times, then lightly press and hold foot brake while applying E-Brake, this will re calibrate the e-brake, i followed this procedure, and now the message says push foot brake and apply hand brake, however when i do this i get the red brake light flashing the amber pad warning light and an amber light on dash, when i move off there is a very very annoying beep beep beep sounding if i go above 3mph, i need to use my car every day and wondered if there was any way i can get rid of the beep beep beep noise until i can get it sorted, my battery has been checked and id totally fine, has anyone got a temporary bypass method for the beep beep as it is driving me insane, the snap on diagnostic tool will not read the e-brake moduel, so i am stuck. The car still drives mint but very annoying noise, hope some one can help

Just purchased a 2007 jaguar x type diesel, can anyone advise me on the engine cc, it says on the new keeper supplement that it is a 1988cc engine, but i thought that it was a 2.2, anyone have any ideas

Thanks Frank, will do mate, my other x type is running spot on so at least i am still in the game so to speak

And i really do appreciate any help that is offered, on the first one, the small mounting bracket that holds the brake light switches, one of the rivets had come slack and finally snapped, causing the brake lights to be on permanantly, the second one, the reason the pedal was hard to pull up was because it was at the top end of its travel and was hitting the stop, and the reason that the pedal was hard to push down is because the brakes were applied almost fully, but when the master cylinder was removed, the pedal and the connecting parts were free and moved very easliy. As i said when i removed the master cylinder, as i slackened the nuts that hold it on to the servo, the brakes were slowly released. But when the brakes were jammed on and i removed the vacuum pipe the brakes came off straight away, There is about 3mm of free play when the car has been staning and engine not running, Never tried disconnecting the rod while the engine is running but i am willing to give it a try. And that is the suituation we have at the moment, but as i am going on holiday, it can wait until i get back, my son says he will have a go at it when i am away, but there is no rush so i have told him to leave it in the garage until i get back. but i really do appreciate any imput anyone is willing to give and so i thank you again, if this sheds any light on the suituation, please let me know what you think, weather it is the same or you have changed your opinion on the fault, but i won't be able to answer until i get back, its a very interesing problem and i am quite enjoying trying different things to solve the problem, i am lucky in one sence as my good friend brakes the x type, so parts are very cheep, its time thats difficult to find

Thanks for that mate, good advice and yes that is how i bled the brakes, but how would that cause the brakes to bind on, as it was doing it before i changed the master cylinder ?

vacuum pipe is fine mate, cheers

On the first one, it is possible according to information i have read , that when bleeding the brakes, some crap will get into the master cylinder as it moves past the normal peramiters and gets jammed on the crap it has disloged, that was the thinking behind the master cylinder change, The rod when i removed the cylinder was looked at, and i tried to loosen the adjusting nut but it was solid and so i assume if i cant move it with spanners it wont move by itself, unles you guys know better. Didn't think there was much interest in the subject as didn't get much responce. Going on holiday very soon so it will be left until i get back, but will update when i start working on it again, thanks for your interest and imput, much appreciated. And the reason i suspect the servo is , when you start the car up in the morning the brakes are free, but after a few mins and a few presses on the pedal, they start to bind on, the longer you drive the more they bind, but, if you stand the car on a slight gradiant and put chocks in front of the wheels allowing 6 inches to roll before contacting them, then remove the servo pipe, which allows the presure in the servo to escape, the car moves forward as if the brakes have been released, so thats my next port of call

Looks really well mate, you have done a cracking job there, you should be well proud of yourself

On the brighter side i have fixed the reversing sensors and the reversing lights by fitting a new reversing switch, one of the many jobs done and this time it worked

Finally got around to bleeding the brakes today, took about an hour,I then took the car out for a small drive and the brakes are still binding on, I was gutted, but onward and forward, next job is to replace the servo unit, might have a spare full braking system when I'm finished, he he, these are defo the brakes from hell, lucky i have another car to drive about in

You have said exactly what i was thinking, the auto drives fine but has mot only until november, the other one drives fine, but has mot until July next year, going to use the auto till mot runs out, then see if it fails and on what, then use the other one unless the auto passes its mot, in which case my head is battered he he he

Not satisfied with one x type 2.5, i have now got 2, this one was cheap and an auto,but according to the man, it runs great with no problems, yeah right, it needs a radiator for a start as it has a slight leak in the middle bottom [ i think ], but it has no warning lights on dash and strangely it does drive rather well, so looks like its a change of radiator, now comes the dilemma, do i run both or do i use one for parts, oh what to do. Anyone have a suggestion and why

Ok Today's episode of [ The brakes from hell ] . Started the car up from cold and reversed it out of the garage. For some unknown reason the brakes were relatively free, but it didn't fool me one bit. I took it up and down the street 3 times and the brakes started to bind again, perfect i thought for my next test. Once again pulled up on the slight incline, stopped the car put the hand brake on and switched off the car, got out and placed the wood chocks 6 inches away from the front wheels, got back in the car and released the hand brake, the car never moved, so i knew the brakes were binding. I lifted the bonnet and decided to loosen the brake master cylinder from the servo, to do this i first removed the coolant tank, this consisted of a 10mm bolt located at the front of the tank, then i pulled the tank towards me, as there is a plastic part of the coolant tank that fits into a bracket, sort of a locating lug. once it was free, i just pulled it slightly to one side as to allow access to the two 13 mm nuts that hold the master cylinder in place, I slowly started to remove the nuts a bit at a time , alternating from one side to the other, after about two turns on each nut the car started to move forward, the more i slackened the nuts the freer the brakes became, until about 4 full turns on each nut the brakes were off totally, I have concluded that the master cylinder was indeed sticking, but just to eliminate another possibility, when the master cylinder was removed, which entailed the removal of the pipe from the clutch, the electrical connection and the two brake pipes, i tried the pedal to make sure none of the linkage was sticking, as the master cylinder is after all on the passenger side, this was found to be free and in good working order. I then proceeded to replace the master cylinder with another unit, the fitment was the opposite of removal, not forgetting to use a new rubber o ring on the back of the unit before installing the master cylinder onto the servo, that is as far as i have gotten today, as i can't bleed the brakes myself, will keep you updated on the next installment of [ The brakes from hell ]