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Oriskany

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Posts posted by Oriskany

  1. One of the lower battery box, cover retaining tangs on my 2005 3.0 Sovereign is broken, and the engine lacks the plastic cover I've seen on other X Types, so, finding myself near a local scrapyard I set about liberating these items from a silver X type 2.5 that was down on its luck. I easily removed the parts, and also helped myself to a set of 5 wheel nuts which had been left under the bonnet. I also wanted one of those boot opening assisters but the boot on the scrapper was shut and there was no way of opening it. When I got home I found that there is nothing to secure the engine cover onto - al all three locations. Also, the battery box is a different size being about 1cm shorter - and that after disconnecting and removing mine. Very disappointing and a waste of time and hurumph....£5. Sometimes you just can't win.

  2. 14 hours ago, Riz said:

    Hi joe would it seem like it is slipping if it was low on gear oil ?? Thanks lee

    On "Wheeler Dealers" they bought a Porsche Boxter S with a faulty gearbox in that the clutches slipped, and the fault was cured quite cheaply by replacing the transmission fluid and filter. If it were me, I;d give it a go.

    • Like 2
  3. On 19/02/2017 at 5:26 AM, Micktoo said:

    Steve, I had a similar hesitancy issue with my 07 x type petrol 3.0  I cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) and the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) and it solved the problem.  Both of these sensors are located directly downstream from the air cleaner.  There is a video online that shows this process.  I didn't remove the MAF as it shows, just opened the butterfly and shot the MAF that way.  I bought a pressurized can of MAF Sensor Cleaner at my local auto parts store for about $9.50  This stuff doesn't leave a residue and drys quickly.   Try it.  It can't hurt and will probably help your performance.  If you have one of those nasty oil coated air cleaners, pitch it in the trash and get a plain old paper filter.

    Mick

    Thanks. I'll give it a go and post the result.

  4. On 24/01/2017 at 0:12 PM, Oriskany said:

    I haven't had my 55 reg' 3.0 X type Sovereign for long, but it is making a noise and I don't know what it is. It happens a variable short period after setting off and is best described as a "Draying" noise that changes pitch with speed. It continues both on acceleration and overrun. I don't know whether it's the diff, the transfer box or a wheel bearing - any ideas ? Thanks.

    ****Update**** - The noise was due to the transfer box containing nearly no Oil! I got the car up on ramps and prepared the area for the deluge of gunge that I expented by removing the transfer box filler plug - gingerly removed the plug and ...nothing but a mound of magnetically-attached gunge on the plug. I managed to get over 400ml of new Oil in and a test drive revealed that the box is now so much quieter but since matter cannot be created nor destroyed, what happened to the 400ml+ that had "disappeared"? - there are no visible leaks and all looks dry down there.

     

    I have owned a few XJ40s, and the Oil in the diff on those used to "disappear" over the years but I assumed it escaped as vapour through the breather valve. This box doesn't have one - does it? Anyway - nice and quiet now.

  5. My X type 3.0 2005 hesitates in a "misfiring" sort of way when accelerating in mid rpm. It goes through a lumpy phase of hesitating which can be felt in the car, and it soon clears up but it does affect performance.

    I have read plenty about this on line but seemingly no solution. My question is could the hesitancy be due to the brakes being applied in response to a yaw sensor erroneous output? Also, which unit would "apply the brakes" in this situation, is it the ABS modulator at the front right of the engine bay? If so I could test my theory by unplugging it for a while.

  6. 14 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

    Hi

    battery on a petrol car should last at least 5 years

    but batteries usually fail early due to other faults, such as poor charging, high standby drain currents/faults and incorrectly wired accessories/add ons

    on a diesel its a different story, but I've known car parts places to give 4 year warranty on a petrol car battery and then only 12 months warranty on a diesel, for the exact same battery

    if you use a smart charger like say a CTEK or similar, I recently replaced the battery on my mitsubishi, a Bosch asia silver, that lasted just over 11 years,  so a smart charger really can extend the life of a car battery

    I use a CTEK on my Jaguar also and you can tell the difference, especially as there so many electronic now a days, that really are voltage sensitive, for some reason the s-type's and x-type, both share a lot of accessories and modules, seem especially sensitive to voltage drop and cause lots of errors when the battery gets low

    AGM batteries now, seem to be a lot better, they hold there charge much better than a lead acid or a sealed for life type.

    cheers

    Joe

     

    Thanks Joe. I've decided that it's already curtains for the battery that I removed as I don't trust it any more. When I went through the dash tests it was reading 10.2V after just a couple of minutes with the ignition on. I've replaced it with a new battery of the same size but with 64Ah instead of the original 60Ah and 590A instead of the original 550A of cold cranking current. Funnily enough my car jerked a bit on acceleration up hill between about 30 and 60MPH but now it seems to have stopped doing that and is  frankly like a rocket on rails. You must be right that the electronics don't tolerate a weak battery - and I'm increasingly sure my old battery, though a Jaguar OEM unit, is weak.

  7. My 3.0 Sovereign has a Jaguar battery with the date code 15/13 - 2013. Today I went out to record the diagnostic readings from my message centre by holding in the trip stalk and switching to position II and then recording what was displayed. There were over two pages to record and I sat there for about ten minutes in II, without paying much attention to the fact that the automatic lights were on and the fan running. I finished and switched off and then on to start the engine - and it would not! Just a click of the solenoid and the dash resetting. I swapped the battery for a similar one that I had handy and it started OK but I wonder whether the original one is on the way out. I have measured the voltage ofthe original battery and it is 12.63v. On the charger it is charging at 0.75A. Would have expected more. I removed the cell covers and the electrolyte is up to level and nothing looks dirty or warped - actually the cells looked really clean under the torch! Any ideas or experiences?

  8. I haven't had my 55 reg' 3.0 X type Sovereign for long, but it is making a noise and I don't know what it is. It happens a variable short period after setting off and is best described as a "Draying" noise that changes pitch with speed. It continues both on acceleration and overrun. I don't know whether it's the diff, the transfer box or a wheel bearing - any ideas ? Thanks.

  9. The beauty of an old-fashioned scrapyard is that you can take some tools and have a go at removing just the lens to avoid buying too much. I'd have a go at removing the lens from the other side as to avoid damaging the light that I wanted. My local scrappy doesn't mind this kind of thing as money for plastic is a win-win for them - they are really interested in metal. So take the tools and have a go before you buy - I would.

  10. Before removing anything, you can do a Bulb test by holding in the trip button on the end of the left hand stalk and switching on the ignition (the position before engine start). This enters a dash self-test suite. Press the button repeatedly until you arrive at the Bulb test whereby all of the dash lamps are illumenated. When you are finished, just switch off the ignition and that's it. Good luck.

  11. So I've had my 3.0 2005 X type Sovereign auto (130,000 miles) for a couple of weeks now and the only work that I have had done is to have the steering aligned and the wheels swapped front to back as one of the fronts was wearing unevenly. Recently a few "effects" have started and I wondered whether owners of older, high mileage X types live with them or whether they are serious. Firstly, my car makes an audible whine on acceleration and this increases in frequency with speed but goes quiet on overrun. Secondly, sometimes I get a misfire-type juddering and hesitency on acceleration at quite low speeds but no engine light etc. I am aware that my car is old and I don't expect perfection but it is comfortable and the heated seats, sat nav and Alpine stereo make driving a pleasure in it.

  12. I'd check the wires leading through the flexible conduit between the car and the door for breaks. The wiring through these isn't very good IMO as my 2006 example has nearside passenger mirror problems and my offside front door speaker does not work due, I suspect to broken wires. I'll investigate more fully when it gets a bit warmer.

  13. 1 minute ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

    Hi

    Try getting someone to move the wires in the door shut area, they tend to snap wires there where the door keeps opening and closeing

    if nothing working, it might be a break in the 12v feed to the switch pack

    cheers

    Joe

    Thanks Joe.

  14. Hello everyone,

    My name is Steve and this is my first Jaguar X type. It's a basic spec 2.1 manual from 2002 with 73000 miles and comes after three XJ40s over several years. XJ40s for me have come to the end as rust, expensive parts and truly shocking MPG have spoiled the fun.

    My X type seems in good order apart from the following bits - drivers door card loose due to broken clip mounting points, slightly bent drivers handle mech which I've bent back to allow the door to be opened. A "clunk" from the front offside occasionally but always when changing from forward to reverse and vice versa. Oh, and the spare wheel well's a bit rusty. No advisories on the last MOT and full Jaguar service history. Still getting used to it, and found that it feels wider than an XJ40 - strange. The air con works but "gives up" on hot days and I'm learning that it is quite sporty and "chuckable" on an open road.

    Now - what should I look out for? If this were an XJ40 I'd say noisy, leaking diffs, expensive mineral Oil leaks in the braking system and worn bushes, and manifold leaks.

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