Latest Posts

I am contemplating replacing the starter battery 12v 100Ah 830A (EN), I have the dual battery system. Is it a job I can undertake myself, if so what are the pitfalls and what action do I need to take to avoid them. Thanking you in anticipation.

Hi Tim, both the X-100 and the X-150 models have their supporters and both have their own particular foibles. Yes corrosion on the X-100 models can be an issue, but if it's been looked after by an Enthusiast owner who knows the areas of concern, they should all be addressed and solid. X-100 principle areas of corrosion are the rear arches and the floor pans under the passenger and driver footwell. The X-150 models have aluminium architecture, which means that the body should largely be corrosion free, but you still need to look carefully. The car body will not rust, but corrosion can still be present, evidenced by some blistering of the paint as the white aluminium oxide works under the paintwork. Typical areas to inspect are front end stone chips, trailing edges of the lower doors, boot lid around the chrome plinth, which can be a water trap, especially if it is a little loose and also vibrating through the paint coating. Also check above the windscreen rail, which can also catch stone chips. Of course the X-150 has steel underpinnings and if the car has been used all year round, or lived most of its life next to the sea (air) then the front and rear subframes can be corroded - badly in some cases. Check rigorously under the car, especially around the rear subframe mounts where it meets the aluminium body - preferably on a ramp. More difficult to inspect the front subframe as it is generally hidden by the undertray. If the rear is bad, then you can be assured the front will also be poor. The 4.2 litre engines are good, but in my opinion the 5.0 litre is better. The difference between the XK and the XKR are not as marked as you might consider - it really depends on how you drive the car. Yes the XKR with its "active" exhaust can sound awesome on acceleration, but the exhaust noise valves only open above 3,000 RPM, and you will rarely be pushing the car to that extent in day to day use. In conclusion, check out cars that have previously been owned by an enthusiast - there may be a club sticker on the window or in the glovebox, or a show rosette. Check out the MoT history via DVLA, and purchase the best you can afford - there are quite a few good ones out there, but also any number that may have been subjected to a "hard life". N6 JMX

Hi Armando, you don't say whether your battery is good, or what age the battery might be! Anything over 5 years and you should be considering fitting a replacement battery as the car's electronics are very sensitive to the battery voltages. In fact, the ability, or not, of the battery to start the car is no longer the best indicator that the battery is in good condition. There are any number of potential parasitic drain points on a Jaguar, interior lights, including the lights in the sun visor mirrors not turning off. Can we assume you have checked the car in the darkness to ensure there are no courtesy lights illuminated? Include the boot / trunk in your checks. After that, it will be a case of connecting your multi meter to read current drain and systematically pulling fuses until you find the drain. N6 JMX

Hi, having just bought my 3rd xf, this time a 15 plate 2.2 portfolio, and dissapointed to belatedly find no reverse camera or front parking sensors. Should have checked but..... Any advice on retro fitting jag parts to this car. Thanks

Hi All, I recently had to reset my ICT Pro system and ironically thereafter, I lost my ability to connect via my Data SIM. This I have fixed by replacing the SIM Card module under the arm rest in the centre console. However, I have now lost my Live Traffic information in my Sat Nav and I am at a loss as to how to get it back to the extent that I am questioning if I should have had it in the first place?? My XE is the Face List model. Sept 2019, classed as 20MY so the Maps are supplied vis HERE rather than the up to 2018 system where the maps were supplied by naviextras, so there is no SD card. In some places I read that you only get live traffic when you purchase the 1 year or 3 year Subscription where you get an updated map every month, but in other sections I feel it infers you can get live traffic without the MAP Update License\Subscription but you obviously have to have your own Data SIM inserted into your car. I have a valid In control Subscription and a Navigation account, although I do note that me Navigation account has a different password to the password I use for my In Control and LIVE services in my car. If I shouldn't have it without the map subscription.... then how come I had it before I did a system reset. Thanks in advance. Any ideas??

To see the range of suitable tyres for your vehicle, go to the Kwik Fit website and input your registration number. You don't have to buy your tyres from Kwik Fit, but there website is really simple to use and get the information that you need to find the best deal on your choice. Just to remember to double check the size and rating that the website comes up with. N6 JMX

If they're the same/similar to Range Rover struts of a similar era, they can't be stripped as far as i'm aware. However, have a search on ebay/Amazon/etc, chances are you'll find an aftermarket part that is identical in every way except perhaps the manufacturers logo. A friend of mine had exactly the symptoms you describe with his RR and the new aftermarket struts were identical except for the logo. Fixed the problem in a matter of minutes to swap them.

Thanks again, it seems quite easy to change this sensor, but not the other one, apparently it's inside the transmission, don't know if I'm confident enough to change that one 😕, But then it may be an idea to change the fluid as the car has done 51000 🤔

Just had my car, XJ L Autobiography in the garage as the service indicator keeps coming in and counting down very quickly. The garage have said this is due to abnormal oil dilution due to the DPF regen not performing properly. The car is driven on both long and short journeys. It has only done 58000. Any suggestions please as to what might be causing this?

Just had my car, XJ L Autobiography in the garage as the service indicator keeps coming in and counting down very quickly. The garage have said this is due to abnormal oil dilution due to the DPF regen not performing properly. The car is driven on both long and short journeys. It has only done 58000. Any suggestions please as to what might be causing this?

Just going through youtube looking for solutions to fix my totally defunct CD player, I found this. Think I prefer it to the last Jag advert 😂😂😂

Might be worth checking if there's a separate receiver/antenna module for the keyless entry that's failed. I've heard of cases where the door module and receiver are two different components.

Sounds like the light switch stalk itself might be faulty since you're getting backwards behavior with lights coming on when it's "off" - might be worth checking if the stalk connector is clean or if the switch needs replacing.

To me it sounds like the pedestrian detection sensor in the front bumper is likely the culprit, especially since pulling the F36 fuse (which probably disables that system) made it go away temporarily - hope the garage already resolved it!

I am wanting to buy a 2007/2008 XKR. Looked at one yesterday. Very nice car! Any advice of any potential problems or issues I should be aware of. I would be very grateful of any sensible advice, as I don't want to buy a problem car! Thanks.

Hey all, I'm thinking of buying an F-type R coupe, and just wondering what else people considered specifically coupe owners prior to F-type R. And what made you go for F-type over something else

❤️

Put them on eBay for £1, buyer collects.

SOLD

HI. My temperature gauge in dash does not register unless I am in heavy traffic: motorway cruising and it stays at bottom of dial. I think its the sensor either stuck or broke and for the price of another on I want to replace it: however asking how easy or difficult that is in terms of access from the top of the engine? Thanks

Hi - I've seen this fault discussed a lot under x250 motors but not x260 as the design of the routes for the wiring is different. My car is showing the boot lid as not shut when it is and I believe its a wire fault in the loom - however I cannot find a supplier for a new loom - not sure I want to get into ebay unless necessary. Could anyone point to a supplier or got a solution by experience? Thanks

finally sorted it, and it was such a simple fix, if anyone experiences this problem here are the simple steps to fix the issue, 1. open boot and disconnect the neg (-) terminal 2. leave disconnected for 5 minuets 3. touch the negative (-) lead to the positive (+) and hold it there for 30 seconds. 4. close boot lid manually. 5. press and hold pan roof open button. you may also have to reset the handbrake by holding down the foot brake and applying the handbrake. after doing this mine is all working fine even on the remote fob. hope this might help anyone else with the same issue i had.

Welcome aboard and GLWTS - always wanted an XJ-S of that age and it has the twin headlamp conversion i've always preferred. Sadly i recently splashed out on something for practical purposes rather than an "occasional" car or i'd be biting your had off - i'm sure someone else will feel like i do so i doubt it'll hang around for long!

Making the rear drop links suitable for fit. Created a 17mm hex from the boot/bearing surface and reduced the bolt length, since the deflector prevents use of a spanner and the extra length blocks a socket.

Had some goof hit the door & front wing. Waited until a breaker had parts then swapped the door (same paint code) -£30 and filled/painted the wing. What is wrong with some people (insurance assessors)?