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JustBadly last won the day on December 21 2020

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About JustBadly

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  1. I was looking through the manual today and I found a section about new keys. This said that up to 8 keys can be stored on the system. To store a new key, insert key into ignition and turn key to switch on ignition (do not start the engine). Leave ignition on for not more than 5 seconds then turn off ignition and remove key. After 10 seconds insert second key, turn to switch on ignition and leave on for not more than 5 seconds. Turn off ignition and remove key. Wait 10 seconds and repeat as necessary.
  2. Noticed a fault in the last week or so. Remote key buttons not working but I can still start the car and drive. The remote works occasionally so I tried the second key with the first and both work. When the 1st remote does not work, neither key does so it's the car. The ignition transponder is working since I can start the car, that leaves the door module and remote receiver in the centre console. Anyone have a better idea? or is this a common fault with a common fix...
  3. Have a look at this then Conversion
  4. The EPB cable will hook onto the caliper lever if the caliper is off the disc since the lever can freely travel. Or you can wind back the piston, then unhook the cable, etc. Awkward however you try.
  5. I happily buy from eBay, reconditioned units mean it is a Jaguar part. The alternator I bought has a smaller pulley to aid low rpm charging. If I needed a new starter I'd buy it from the same people. The catalogue number is a guide for your vehicle part but sellers often want the VIN code.
  6. The modification here is solely to do with the backlight. If your radio has an additional fault then you might purchase another radio from a Jaguar parts specialist. Naturally, you will still have to fix the backlight on the replacement unit.
  7. After I start the car I release the EPB by using the cabin switch and before putting into gear. When parking I'll place it into park then activate the EPB before turning off the engine. I just hate error codes.
  8. Might have found it! Checked over the engine for vacuum leaks and found a hole in the engine breather. Replaced the hose length, will see if all is ok next run.
  9. Am having faults P0172 & P0174 telling me fuel is lean on left and right bank. The codes appeared at the same time, so today I changed the MAF, air filter & fuel filter and although better the fault is still there. It happens when I am slowing down (shut throttle) but will clear after a few seconds when driving off. So I suspect the fuel pump is on the way out. My guess is that the pump is stopping instead of reduced flow, causing lean burn for a few seconds. Not surprised since mileage is 95k so is probably original. Will order one unless you guys have a better suggestion.
  10. I had a flickering trunk light and this was traced to the wire loom from the trunk lid to the main body. The loom has to flex whenever the lid is opened and wires had become frayed. The wiring around the tail light has no leverage upon it, after checking for water ingress you might try the loom.
  11. Don't know how original this one is, but it isn't used much although apparently runs.
  12. This may be a coincidence but last week I added 'STP 5 in 1' petrol system cleaner to my Jag. This made quite a difference it is more free-revving and warms up quicker. Any probs with starting etc and I recommend this over everything else.
  13. First thing is start with the basics. The gearbox will give a fault light if the fluid is low (this goes when you stop start) also it is going into safe mode. Change the filter and somehow get 6 litres+ into the transmission - I can give you advice. Unlikely to be anything else or the light would stay on.
  14. Here is a quick guide to repair of the radio back light. If you want to do this you must have a soldering iron (fine tip), solder flux, tweezers, solder wick and 1206 green LED & 603 470R resistors. Only replacing the LEDs will not do, the load resistors must also be replaced since they are the cause of the fault. Remove the radio and dismantle, desolder the LCD screen then with the solder tip; load with solder and push off the resistors. The LEDs are removed by cutting then removing the tags with the iron. Spread flux onto the bare contacts then place components onto the board with tweeze
  15. After a few drives I can say it takes a while to warm up, blanked off 1/² the radiator even so, about 10 minutes or so given 8°c air temp. Has to be a minimum flow past the thermostat to 'tell it' the temperature but this is only a 1.5mm hole in the back plate, might work on this in the future. Ignition is very stable and good spread of power now the ECU isn't having to compensate for erratic coolant temp. No leaks but filling up coolant took a while since there is the possibility of an air-lock around the thermostat. Winter running is often problematic but looking forward to summer.
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