JOC Admin

Hi Neil

Unfortunately, your door locking problem is a common fault and one that is quite awkward, but not impossible to resolve.

As Keymeister has correctly stated, you will need to remove the interior door card to gain access to the faulty door lock solenoid.

This can be made easier by removing the rear seat to allow greater access to the retaining screws on the door card.

Once you have gained access to the door lock mechanism, you can either try to jiggle the mechanism levers until the door unlocks but if this doesn't work then the only other way is to break the plastic unit apart with a hammer and chisel...sounds brutal but it does then release the door.

It would be wise to have a replacement door lock mechanism to hand to beforehand, so as not to leave the car unlockable whilst waiting for parts!

Hope this helps?  

Trevor

A Jaguar promotional film featuring the new F-Type....aptly named 'Desire'

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/04/24/jaguar-releases-desire-short-film-starring-f-type-and-damian-lew/

Managed to sit in this actual car at the Jaguar Factory....nice!!!

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/04/24/jaguar-releases-desire-short-film-starring-f-type-and-damian-lew/

Seem to be getting quite a lot of positive feedback on TerraClean lately.

Thanks,   Trevor

Hi Col

Welcome to the club.

Glad to hear your enjoying your Jaguar experience    :)

May you have many years of trouble free motoring.

Regards,     Trevor

Hi Dave

Welcome to the club!

Glad to hear that you have found your way back to a Jaguar.

I hope you enjoy many years of trouble free (and fun!) motoring.

Regards,    Trevor

Hi Keith

Welcome to the club!

Its satisfying to know that your Jaguar hasn't presented any problems...carry on enjoying it    :)

Regards,    Trevor

Hi Paddy,

Welcome to the club!

Hope your car gives you that 'feel good factor', I'm sure it will...enjoy it!

Regards,   Trevor

Hi Ricky,

Your car should have two Air Mass Meters (left and right banks).

I'm not sure what specific characteristics to the performance of the vehicle it will make by fitting an induction kit though?

Regards,    Trevor

probably the best thing really...it can turn out to be an expensive repair if anything goes wrong.

I believe from memory that you depress the handbrake switch to the 'off' position whilst switching  the ignition off. It would also help to leave the gearshift in neutral but do not leave the ignition on when carrying out the task.

It may be prudent to get a garage to change the pads if it doesn't drive back the handbrake as this can be carried out with a scanner.

Good luck!

Trevor

Hi Neil,

You should be able to disengage the electronic handbrake by holding the switch whilst switching off the ignition.

Once the handbrake is off, you can retract the calipers by turning the pistons anti-clockwise until flush into the caliper. It would help to crack the bleed nipple loose and capture the lost fluid when winding in the pistons, as this will prevent the fluid pressure being forced back up the system and damaging the ABS unit.  Remember to pump the brake pedal when finished!

Hope this helps?

Regards, Trevor

Hi Anthony,

not sure how much the paint costs (maybe Jaguar only for that particular colour) but I would think its definitely worthwhile applying some paint to stonechips before the winter!

Trevor

Hi Paul,

just seen your post regarding door card removal.

I have found a procedure, but generally most door cards are the same to remove....the hardest part is locating the hidden screws.

Procedure:

This is the same front or rear door.

1. remove rubber insert at the bottom of the arm rest/door handle

2. remove the 2. Philip head screws.

3. run hand along bottom edge of door panel to ensure no other securing screws.

4. starting at the top rear edge of the door panel side a large flat screw drive/door panel tool (what ever you have)

5. lift sharply and you will here popping noises from the push clips lifting out of the socket.

6. as you work down the rear edge of the door panel you will see the trim around the interior door handle lift away. remove it.

7. the interior door handle will remain on the door. 8. remove the rest of the door panel.

The only golden rule is don't force any part of the door card...but it is usual to break a few plastic clips.

Good luck

Regards,   Trevor

Glad to hear its all resolved....may have to start the using the fog lights soon    :(

Hi Marcel,

there is a thread in this forum that has been created to recommend specialist Jaguar repairers throughout the country.

Here is the link

http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/7304-recommended-independent-garages/

Regards,    Trevor

Hi Alasdair,

In general, squealing from brakes is caused by resonance when the friction lining material is clamped to the disc by the caliper. This resonance can be isolated by applying Copperslip to the backing plate where it contacts the caliper & cradle.

Alternatively, you could replace the pads with a better quality pad which should eliminate any noise.

Hope this helps?

Regards,    Trevor

Hi TedLaw,

you could try using an external aerial, made specifically for the type of windscreen you have.

Here is a link for one that I found on eBay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tomtom-external-antenna-/221281732524?pt=UK_CE_GPS_Accessories_Software_ET&hash=item33856b47ac

Regards,    Trevor

It appears to be a common fault with this model.

It would be nice to hear from any members that have found a solution to the problem

How did you get on with the additive?

Another possible cause for excessive smoking is that the diesel injectors tend to drift out of calibration from original specs.

This can easily be checked and recoded using a scan tool.

Regards,   Trevor

Hi Paul,

I would firstly check the coolant level....if it has dropped off the level drastically then this can lead to a false reading and expensive repair bills if completely drained of coolant.

If the level is fine then it could be the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) or the wiring attached to it.

Lastly, a faulty instrument panel could be to blame.

I suggest you take the car to a specialist to diagnose the fault by plugging into the electronics with a scan tool.

Hope this helps?

Regards,   Trevor

Hi Ian,

Congratulations on becoming a Jaguar owner!

There is a thread running on the forum http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/7304-recommended-independent-garages/ which should help you locate a recommended Jaguar specialist garage in your area.

Regards,   Trevor

Hi Kieron,

The pulley has been modified, where as originally it was a single crank pulley. Because there was a noise at idle there has been smaller pulley attached to the crank pulley to counter balance the weight stopping the rattling noise at idle. The belt tensioner should also be replaced (supplied in the kit, made by Dayco)

Here is a link to one that I found on the internet   http://www.fordparts...el_kit_1917.htm 

The kit is the same for the Mondeo TDCi engine and the pulley can also be purchased through Ford.

Hope that helps?

Regards,  Trevor

Hi Chris,

there could be many different reasons for brake imbalance.

• Faulty caliper (internally)
• Weak brake hose (balloon'ing out when pressure is applied to it)
• Pads not free to move with caliper cradle
• Pad lining material (surface) defective
• ABS modulator faulty

...to name but a few!

You could try swapping the pads to the other side to see if that improves it or makes it worse.

Otherwise, I would suspect the caliper as being faulty

Hope this helps?

Regards,  Trevor

Hi,

Firstly, check the Bulb and fuses then you could look at the switch to see if there is a battery voltage reading present. 

If not, then you will need to check the wiring up to the switch.

If there is power at the switch, then check the wiring to the lamp (e.g. chaffing, break, etc).

Most importantly....make sure there is a good earth to the whole circuit as corrosion can occur between earth terminals and the bodywork (chassis earth).

Hope this helps to start the diagnosis...Good luck.

Regards,  Trevor