Suppedraken

This may not help you at all, since yours is a manual, but for 2002.5 to 2004 with automatic transmission, a surge during warm up while driving at around 40mph may require reconfiguration of the transmission control module.

Well, according to guides, schematics, bulletins and whatnot found at Topix, it seems that some of the hardware must be replaced and some of it may just be disconnected. It also seems that it's possible to reprogram the various modules. But, taking all the good advice into consideration, I may just leave the HIDs and replace the rest with LEDs. Come summer, that is. One a side note I must say that, impressive at it is, it was a bit disappointing not to find a parts catalogue at Topix.

It would seem that the problem is temperature related, because it was cold when it happened and now, when it's warmer again, it works just fine. This is good. Because it gives me time to ponder the schematics and the parts lists, and purchase the neccessary components. And by then it will be summer, kittens, butterflies and all sorts of wonderful things. On a related note, it is far from the best winter car I've had, but it handles the snow (provided it's not much more than ankle deep) and ice (provided it's not speed skating slick) reasonably well. The differential/ESP could be more advanced, though.

This may be a long-term project... Jaguar Norway can't or won't say whether the car will need reprogramming or not. Which means that I will have to try it myself. According to the 2003 Technical Guide, 2003 Electrical Guide and 2002.5 - 2008 Workshop Manual, the components involved are rear and front axle sensors, headlight leveling motor, headlight leveling control module and auxiliary lighting switch, which all communicate with the engine control module. After disconneting any of these, "recalibration will be neccessary using WDS." As for programming, the MongoosePro JLR from Drew Technologies is too expensive, but http://www.obdii.co.uk/car-diagnostic-tools-c-2/jlr-mongoose-for-jaguar-and-land-rover?zenid=p4c3cv188m55o7r8715a0kc5f3 and http://britishdiagnostics.co.uk/ both claim to be able to do programming. I consider buying the latter, as it can run from any laptop and not just XP (as is the case for the OBDII kit), Vista or 7 (as is the case for the MongoosePro kit). So, what does all this mean? As there are no words to describe how much I hate laying under old cars in the wind, rain, snow and cold, it means that I may have to resort to just repairing the HIDs for now. Instead of risking having to do that anyway, after taking it all apart, changing lamps, etc, only to discover that it didn't work. I'll keep you posted.

Questions for Ron and like-minded parts of the collecctive brain. We have HID, or xenon as it's called up here. The wossname on the passenger side is stuck in the down position, and checking the thread about repairing that, I decided that my favourite wife wants LED all round. But... Regarding daytime running lights in Scandinavia, according to the book of words, "the low beam headlamps are illuminated by a Pulse Width Modulated signal (PWM) for the vehicles fitted with halogen headlamps (when the average voltage exceeds 14V). Vehicles with High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps operate the dip beam at normal supply voltage." How does one tell the car that it has halogen lamps instead of HID lamps? The headlamp adjusting switch unit (the one beside the steering wheel, with the fog light buttons in it) needs to be replaced with a manual level adjusting type. How does one tell the car that it has a different type of headlamp adjusting unit? The complete lamp units need to be replaced with halogen types. Do they come complete, with the leveling motor? What about the rest of the HID auto level sensory and circuitry, does it need to be removed? According to the same book of words, these are the exterior bulb types: Has anyone assembled a list of geprüft und führ gut gefunden LEDs and where to buy them? Anything else that needs knowing? My apologies for the phletora of questions and my most grateful thanks for any advice.

I just noticed it while driving home tonight that every button and control are backlit. Except the light lever (handle, stalk or whatever they're called in English) and wiper lever. Aren't they supposed to be backlit too?

My guess is that it's not Jaguar themselves, but the navigation people that stopped supporting five years after end of production. Like how Microsoft stops supporting older versions of Windows after a number of years. I asked Jaguar Norway about it and they said that they hadn't seen many complaints about it, or the lack of DAB, USB and bluetooth, probably because everyone have smartphones. If they saw enough demand for it, they would consider asking the manufacturer to produce an update. Personally, I'm torn between the desire to keep it original and the urge to modify with an android tablet.

Magic!

We took the car for a warranty expiration test (similar, but more thorough in some respects, to MOT) at NAF (Norwgian AA) and the only faults they found were: - Different colours on rear turn signal bulbs - AC doesn't get colder than 11C, probably due to old coolant - Rust (not severe) several places in the undercarriage that was impossible to see unless looking outwards from underneath the car On our own we found that: - There's a tiny, little leak from the expansion tank - The ski hatch is missing - The cassette is stuck in the CD changer - The side mirrors doesn't fold in - The rear window curtain gets stuck and needs wiggling of the rear seat back to come loose again - The plastic handle on the boot lid is loose In addition to what the dealer didn't have time to do before delivery: - Polishing of headlights - Checking of pulling to the side when braking hard We told the dealer that: - We can replace the bulbs ourselves - Jaguar Norway charges 1800NOK for the expansion tank, but it can be had for 350NOK on ebay, so we can replace the tank ourselves in an hour - We can live happily with the AC as it is until next service - We can polish the headlights ourselves, as the materials are cheap and it's done in an hour - That the car still pulls to the side while braking hard, even if the brake power is even, and uneven tyre wear suggests shocks or bushings and that we could live happily with it until it became clearer where the problem lies - Jaguar Norway charges 6000NOK for the ski hatch*, which is madness, as a complete rear seat can be had for 1000NOK on ebay and it takes less than an hour to replace, so we can do it ourselves - Jaguar Norway charges 6000NOK for the CD changer* and refunds 4000NOK for the old one, but they can be had for 300NOK on ebay, and we could do it ourselves in an hour - We can disassemble, clean and lubricate the side mirrors ourselves in a couple of hours - We can disassembel, clean and adjust the rear window curtain ourselves in a couple of hours - Jaguar Norway charges 5000NOK* for the plastic handle on the boot lid, which is madness, as a complet boot lid can be had for 1000NOK on ebay, so we can do it ourselves in less than an hour - We didn't know how they camouflaged them, but all the little dents and specks showed up after the first washing - The dealer is a decent and serious one, so we have no reason to suspect bad intentions, but that they should have discovered the rust and informed us about it. And that it was impossible to know the extent before starting, but that a local body repair shop hinted at 10-20000NOK. We also said that everything except the rust is what we like to do ourselves during winter and asked if they would be willing to give us a discount on our half of the rust repair if we did the rest. They replied that they would do the rust repair free of charge, something which I think is very decent and much more than we hoped for. We'll bring it in this week and ask them to do it as good as possible instead of as fast as possible. * I didn't dare ask what their key chains cost.

I've never named a car or any other inanimate object in my entire life, but my favourite wife names everything. The food processor is Ken, the lawnmower is Klippy, and so on. The Citroën C1 was Moe (short for Moebius, because it's larger on the inside than on the outside), the Hilux is currently Otis and the Jag became King Bob. This led to renaming the Citroën Pucci. She hasn't named the chainsaw or the snowthrower, though.

Carroll Shelby explained: “There are two theories: build a real stiff chassis and have a brilliant guy do your suspension work, or you can take a flimsy chassis that bends so the wheels stay on the ground anyway. We just kept putting wider tires on it – there was nothing sophisticated about it. If it hadn’t been so flimsy, we’d never have made it work.”

Which you did brilliantly.

This may be a silly question and you may already have explained this somewhere else, but please forgive me for asking. If they're not better or equal, why use them?

The Peugeot I had once, washed the lamps and the windshield at the same time. But only if the light was turned on, ie, not auto. I could go out and check if the same applies here, but I'm too comfy right now. I would suspect and check hose, fuse, connector or pump. In that order. The next step would be to try and figure out what happens, or not, as the case may be, between switch and front electronic module.

I don't know about that, but for the black mould that can be found in showers or on houses, I spray it with a 1/5 solution of chlorine-based household bleach and rinse off with a lot of water.

Nothing specific, but in general, I'd say it was either mechanical or electrical. Why, thank you, Captain Obvious! It could be a slightly worn or bent slide or cog or something like that. And if the sensory apparatus is very sensitive, which it probably is on such a delicate car, it will cease operation. And when you push the button again, it starts another cycle and stops again when it senses that something is wrong. It could also be a sticky or dirty sensor or a loose connection. And if the sensory apparatus is very senstive, which it probably is on such a delicate car, it will cease operation. And when you push the button again, it starts another cycle and stops again when it senses that something is wrong. Just my 2 euros. edit: After many years of reparing cameras and such, I dare the assertion that no mechanical system is so complicated that you can't figure out how it works. If you can watch it operate, that is. Which means that you'll probably have to remove what's necessary to do just that. Sorry.

They are. Not so much the cars themselves, though. Low battery voltage can cause strange behaviour. Have you tried charging the battery?

I don't remember who it was, but someone called it chuckable, and I can testify to that. Narrow, curvy mountain roads are a pleasure to behold in the S-Type. It's my fear that sets the limit, not the car's abilities. So far. But ask me in a year. We've had ours for some weeks now, and it still makes us very, very happy to drive it.

It seems to me that the space blanket heat shield right next to the leftmost belt pulley was touching the pulley, or, as Laz suggested, a piece of the belt was flapping against it. Note to self: replace belt at next service. While probing around under the hood, I also noticed that the coolant level is low. Thorough inspection didn't reveal any leaks. Argh! And grrr. Note to self: It's an old car, consider replacing all hoses at nest service.

Had a strange experience today. Kickdown to get on the motorway and suddenly a loud sound, almost like those cards you clipped to your bicycle with clothes pins when you were a kid. It was clearly RPM related. But when we slowed down to stop it gradually faded away and disappeared, never to return. I suspected something fanbelt (the fans of modern cars aren't beltdriven, I know, but I always think of them as fanbelts) related, but can't see anything that looks wrong. Any ideas?

Not that it helps you one iota, but we got our DVD from http://www.satnavdvd.co.uk/ and it was just to remove the old one, put in the new one, and voila! After some searching it seems that they stopped making updates in 2012, or five years after discontinuation. A possible soluton would be to buy a DIN-2 unit with GPS and replace the old unit. If an updated and integrated navigation is important enough to be worth it, that is. Another solution would be to buy a holder for you phone and use the phone's GPS.

You wouldn't by any chance happen tp have a ski hatch, would you?

Excellent. Thanks for the link, I'll bookmark it for future use.

The hatch costs no less than 6500NOK (or approx £650, or a complete car in the UK), which I'm not going to pay. The next time my favourite wife and I see the Bees, we'll pay a visit to scrapyards as well. Are there any not too far from Brentford?

Don't worry about it, I'm actually half Finnish. My mother's parents came from Finland.