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  1. Hi thanks for the reply, I'll have a look on those websites you've mentioned, appreciate the help, Kind regards,
  2. Hi everyone, I've been having trouble finding this part 6W83-9S442-AC, assuming that it's been superseded by another part, the car has been making a hissing noise and I know it's coming from the this line and I can't seem to find anything on it, I'll send a few pictures as to were the leak is, 2005 jaguar XK X150 4.2L
  3. Hi all, I have a vacuum leak thats causing the codes P0174 and P0171, I had bought myself a plastic tube to listen to where it was coming from specifically, I'll link in what I purchased, Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing V2 3/8" ID 1/2" OD 10/13mm 1 Metre https://amzn.eu/d/9NYE43s All you have to do is insert the tube into your ear and have a listen to the vacuum lines, if the *hissing* noise you hear starts to become more audible, then that's the part you need to replace, I suspected the hissing noise was coming from my crankcase breather pipe, the original XK part I think was discontinued, so the part I ordered was AJ81172 fits perfect, The noise, I'm sure, is quieter but I still have a persisting hissing noise, I listened in again and next to the crankcase pipe there is another vacuum leak, not entirely sure what the part number is so I was hoping someone here knew anything about it, the lines look rather fragile so I'm not sure if its worth replacing with a more robust part, if anyone has any info, that would be a great help, Kind regards, Heres the picture, I've now replaced the plastic line on the right, the plastic thin line in the centre is hissing, does anybody know the part number, or a better replacement part that may be more robust, Regards,
  4. Just out of curiousity, is there a fuse of some kind I can pull to see if this is the draw I'm looking for? I'm going to see what my voltage is at tomorrow, if it hasn't changed then I'll go sorting out the alarm chirp. Like I mentioned above, when the car alarms, when I'm inside and I've locked the car, only the lights flash, the horn doesn't sound at all nor does the chirp, is there some way of reactivating this again, if so what are the steps to do this ? When I double press the key fob or car door, it does not make the noise either, I've done some more digging and I have now seen a few people with the alarm chirp issue, much of them you have replied to, you've been a great help, Kind regards,
  5. Thank you for the replies, after searching for a while in all 3 fuse boxes I came to one that was rather suspicious, it is a blue 15 amp mini fuse located in the rear seats, it was showing a draw that fluctuated between 0.1 to 0.2mv, this is around 21 to 42 milliAmps draw, according to the owners manual, this is the 'IHU, supply' 'F21' Ive tried looking this up online but I cant find any results on this, it looks to be the infotainment, I have pulled the fuse and now the screen doesn't switch on along with most infotainment buttons, the fuse itself looks like its seen better days, I will see if the drain persists with the fuse removed, if so I'm not quite sure, as for the alarm chip sounder, I wasn't even aware I had one, when I lock the car with one press, all lights flash once quickly with no noise, double clicking the key has the lights stay on a little longer then go out, I've noticed that if for instance I open the car door when the car thinks its locked, all indicators will flash but there is no noise at all like you'd expect, as for the CTEK charger yes I really should get one of those, I do drive the car every day as a daily commute to work and back, though I think whats best right now is to fix the fault itself, Kind Regards,
  6. Hi all, When I purchased the car a few months ago, I was told by the dealer I purchased the car from, that the battery was 'brand new' only to find that when I parked it for 3 days, fri, sat, sun and then tried to start on the Monday, that car didn't have any power at all, not even enough to open the emergency tail gate to access the dead battery, what a pain that was, If anyone has that issue, I suggest accessing the positive and negative hidden away in the back seats as none of the other methods worked for me, anyways, ended up replacing the battery, also bought my self a plug in voltmeter to check my battery voltage every time I enter the car and drive it to work, most of the time it goes like this, end of drive it sits around 12.8, come back around 8 hours later and the car is sitting around 11.9v the alternator reading switched on is 14.2 usually, so first thing I think is Parasitic drain, I made the car think the doors and bonnet are shut, I used a screw driver for this, then locked the car and let it go to sleep, I then started work an hour later using the AstroAI DT132A Multimeter, I know people tend to try disconnect the battery to see how much draw there is, however I don't have another multimeter and I know there is a drain so I skipped that entirely, I worked from front fuse box to the passenger side fuse box, let me tell you that one was an absolute pain to access and get accurate readings, then tested the rear fuse box hidden behind the seats, I spent a while doing this, even checking the fuses again once more and found absolutely nothing, the only thing that came close was a 5 amp brown fuse on the passenger side fuse box, because of course it had to be the hardest to get to one, and found it draw 1.4mv then drop to zero, it stayed like this for around 10 seconds or so, it was on the bottom row and 5 along I'm sure, I tried to replicate it again and again and couldn't really, I put down to me not making a good connection on the fuse, as when I place one side and not the other I get some kind of reading but when both are placed it come to 0 Mv, I going through all of fuses again today, took the car out for a 45min run once more before I start but the battery drain I so significant I wouldn't be surprised if it dropped to around 12.2 when I eventually start work, If I cant find it now I have no clue what to do now, Id like to ask though, has anyone had a similar problem, if they did what was the cause and was it a common issue with these cars because I honestly cant find a single forum with this kind of issue, it's going to be a major problem in the winter and quite honestly, taking it to a garage is a last resort for me for this kind of thing, however, I will be taking the car to a Jaguar specialist for a major service which is due near October time, I will be taking it here https://www.prestigejaguar.com/ so worst comes to worst I will have to ask them to take a look at it. as for the crankcase breather pipe that's hissing, again was sold to me like this, I tried to look up the part only to find that it has been discontinued, wonderful, the only thing I could find, which apparently fits the XK, is this part number here AJ811728, instead of plastic, it now looks like a rubber hose, not quite sure though, I hope this is a viable replacement as I'm currently searching for one at the moment,
  7. Hi, thank you for the replies, When I've driven the car a good while 40mins or so and I switch the engine off, it reads around 12.8 or 12.9 The next day is when it drops to around 12.4 and after a few days of no use, 3 days or so is when it shows around 12.1 or 11.9 Guess I will need one of those chargers to maintain the battery, Kind regards,
  8. Ive bought myself a little 12v reader that fits in the socket inside the car to keep an eye on the voltage, It ranges anywhere between 11.9 to 12.4, Id say most of the time it sits around 12.1, this is when the car isn't running at all, When the car is running it shows around 14.4, Ive read a lot of mixed stories about battery voltage and what it should be with the engine completely switched off, but according to my instruction manual given with the LED 12v reader, those readings I have displayed should be normal ? if it is then perfect, if not then I've somehow bought a brand new battery that's already on its way out, regards,
  9. Bought myself a little OBII Bluetooth code reader the other day, only to find that there are codes for the engine running too lean, I cant say I've ever noticed the XK misbehaving in any way, although I have found that after a good while of driving, when the car comes to a stop, the revs slightly dip and then comes back up again, its not entirely noticeable but I have read about it happening with these codes, Not really sure if this is related but I will add that If you rev the car slightly whilst stationary and letting it rest again, I've found on a really rare occasion that the car starts climbing revs to around 3.5k and then very slowly coming back down to what it should be again without touching any pedals. Ive read the live data on the torque (lite) app and I seriously don't understand whats wrong here, both bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 show the same numbers from the start of a drive to finish -1.6 is what they read, I use a Dial and it tells me max and min using arrow indicators evolving around the circle, also if you are wondering why I'm using sensors 2 on bank 1 and bank 2, that is because that's the only ones displaying data, not sure why this is, I'm going to have a look at the 02 sensors on bank 1 and 2 the next time I'm out a drive, I've been told that it should fluctuate between 0-1 volts, If anyone has had these issues, please let me know, Ill try to post updates as I go along finding things, I'm going to remove the engine cover and start checking for vacuum lines, maybe clean out the MAF sensor, knowing my luck though I wont be able to find the issue and need to take the XK to a garage, Ive only just bought the car a few months ago, I was planning to give the car a Major service for piece of mind, MOT due up on October 29th, so would be planning on servicing it at the same time, Kind regards,
  10. **Update** Managed to finally get the boot open using the back seat method mentioned above and as shown in the video, I used a battery charger again to try at least charge the battery, the charger I was using wasn't really rated to charge a very large battery like the one in the Jag, I noticed that when I flicked the switch to the battery charger, the doors made a noise and if the door was open the window would go down ever so slightly, I tried running out to the back as soon as I flicked the switch to try the boot but could never open it with any luck, I needed another person, I got some help later on in the day, I flicked the battery charger switch and had someone stand at the back and press the boot release button at exactly the same time, I'm glad that it's open now but the new battery was meant to arrive today and didn't show up, typical, so now I'm stuck with a car with a half open window with an open boot for the night, oh well... I'd like to thank everyone for the suggestions, I will look into the CTEK that a lot of people go on about in the forums, there is a trickle charge system installed in the car, or at least, red and black wires for one, with nothing attached to it, so it seems someone has installed their own effort of one in the past, it would be handy to keep an eye on the voltage as to know when I should keep it plugged in for a day just to top the battery up and keep it in good condition, I'll still keep this updated incase replacing the battery doesn't work for whatever reason but I'm sure it is just a dead battery, I had a look at the battery inside the car and I couldn't find a date of any kind so I couldn't really tell how old it was, I can safely say though that every car I've ever bought, main dealer, independent dealer or private seller has needed a brand new battery because the current one in the car was on its way out, I've always bought bosch so if anyone is interested I've bought a bosch s5 013 battery from eBay. Thanks again for all your support, Regards.
  11. Ok here's an update, I've hooked the jag up to another running car, this was from the rear of the vehicle this time, we left the car running for around 10-15 minutes, revved the engine to see if it did anything, The car is completely dead...
  12. Thank you for the reply, I'm not really understanding the key situation, It seems to me like you turn it towards the drivers side (Clockwise) it goes a quarter of the way and then just does nothing, I try turning it until it stops and lifting at same time and the boot is just complete sealed shut, it seems to me like its still controlled by the electronic release, if it isn't then Ive just found something important that's broken that needs fixed... Ive looked under the car passenger rear and yes I see there is a point to Jump start, Ill maybe try hooking up to another car again but since it never worked last time with the back seats then I feel its just going to be the same result again, I have ordered a strong Jump pack from ebay and also a new battery to go along with it just in case it happens again, I probably should order one of those plug in cigarette lighter adapters that tells me the voltage reading so I can keep a good eye on it, Ill keep this post updated, hopefully I find a solution to this issue, cheers again !
  13. I really don't know what to do now, I've driven short journey's with the car, although I took out the car for a half hour drive on Thursday and a 15min drive on the Friday, the car is a 2005 55 Jaguar XK150 I left the car over the weekend for the first time, tried to access the car on Monday morning and nothing, I tried entering the car from the passenger side using the emergency Key, success I have access, interior lights wont come on, window wont clear, absolutely nothing is working, I try using the emergency key on the tailgate, nope cant do that either, seems they thought it would be a great idea to have an electronic release for the back of the vehicle... so looked up some options online, found a video on Youtube, the rear seats come out and there is a positive and negative terminal to attach to, here is the video to understand fully... only trouble Is, I just tried using a battery charger left it for around 2 hours and nothing, cant get access to the hatch. I tried hooking it up directly to another car battery and the car still would not do a damn thing, no interior lights, no screen, no start, nothing what the hell!!??!! I only just bought the car around a month ago...
  14. Hi thanks for the reply, I forgot to mention that I checked the MOT history online and found that from 2006 all the way to around 2013, it matches with the service stamps, but from then on, probably when the next owner came along, it doesn't have anything at all, from what I was told the guy was a mechanic and carried out the work on his own, but kept no record of doing so which is frustrating, he also had his own MOT garage and apparently didn't use the car all that much because of the nature of his job and the interior being beige he didn't want to get the interior dirty, even though it currently is dirty, I guess the next time I go to the Jaguar specialist, which will be in October I'll ask if they can find out for me, here's hoping that it is genuine miles, Thanks for the advice, Kind regards.
  15. I recently acquired a winters Gold Jaguar XK 2005 55 with 31k Miles, the car drives perfect and I have no electrical issues as of yet which is good, I've only had the car a few days now but I'm wanting to have a few things done to make it looking like showroom condition, but I'm going to need some help or some insight on how to do this. first things first, the rear passenger reverse light is fogging, seems like the seal is gone, which happens with a lot of cars, is it possible to get a new rubber seal for one or would I have to just purchase new old stock of a pre facelift light, any information on that would be appreciated. second thing is corrosion, drivers front arch is bubbling slightly, along with the passenger rear, this isn't too bad at the moment, lots of stone chips in this area, I've ordered a touch up stick for some of the stone chips I've seen around the car and I'm not sure if this will stop the spread of the corrosion, I don't know if its worth getting genuine Jaguar mug guards to stop further stone chips from appearing or are they just more trouble than its worth, as in lots of salt gets trapped between the guards and actually makes it worse, if anyone has any experience with guards, how effective are they from preventing corrosion, are they worth the purchase, If so what Is the part number so that I can hunt for them. third thing, the interior is really dirty, this isn't really an issue as such but its definitely made think that the mileage is not genuine in some way, the steering wheel is shiny for instance, although the pedals don't look like they have worn all that much, if at all, the seats are in really good condition as well but I'm just not all that sure, the engine and everything feel really solid, but this is my first big engine car and I know these engines are capable of putting lots of miles on with little to no issues, I guess the question is, how would I even go about finding out to see if the mileage is truly genuine, surely a Jaguar specialist would have a log that would tell you a lot of history about the car and if any changes were made to the odometer, is it possible to even acquire such a machine for personal use, as I've been alerted to something already about the cars being very sensitive to throwing codes if there is a low 12v battery, when I went to purchase the car, I was told that they needed to recalibrate the car after fitting a new battery as the seat forward and backward movement wasn't coded at all, this works now of course but if it were to happen again id like to have some sort of machine handy so that I wouldn't have to make a trip to the specialist, I'd like to add that I will be sourcing for a interior detailer in the Glasgow area to make it look spotless, this week hopefully. forth thing is the front badge its faded, really badly, is there any way of removing that and replacing with a genuine badge, if so what is the part number for that so I can source one to replace. fifth thing, the front lights look slightly cloudy, I've dealt with this before actually, I had a 2000 Honda Insight with the same issue although they were yellowing on top of that and much much worse than this, I used the sanding method and the lights look brand new, I'm not sure if the Jag needs to go down that route, they certainly aren't yellow, maybe a certain product will made them looking new again. anyways, if anyone has anything to share, that would be much appreciated, Kind Regards,
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