LairdScooby

I have a similar thing on my 99 S Type, if i open the boot before arming the alarm, often it will not arm/set. If i open and close one of the doors (drivers door usually) i can then set the alarm. I've put this down to perhaps a worn door open switch on the drivers door or possibly whichever module (BCM perhaps) not recognising all doors are shut. It sounds to me as if you have a similar problem brewing but in a later stage. Also worth checking to see if it does it with your spare key, if it doesn't, get yourself a replacement spare and start using the spare key.

You're welcome, good luck with whatever you go for.

First thing that springs to mind would be this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/357133847843 There are cheaper Chinese units available, i picked that one to give you an idea whats available. My own S Type is a 1999 model so has the older style dash and no "off the shelf" option so i bought a dead stereo with the right colour surround and built a 9" Android unit into it - i must finish the job and get it fitted!

As i always say, it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Even new cars break down and the cost of AA cover Vs the cost of an enforced motorway tow is comparatively nothing.

When you pay others to perform a service, no matter what that service is, you expect a certain level of professionalism. Leaving oil out of an engine after an oil/filter change is not just lack of professianalism but careless too as they no doubt had to park the car in the Service car park ready for collection. I'm sure the sound it made wouldn't have been nice (imagine a bag of spanners in a metal bin inside a tumble dryer!) so not only should the mechanic who did the job have noticed but all his colleagues too. I'm no legal expert but would certainly think you have a very strong case for negligence on this and therefore the dealer should fit a reconditioned engine at their cost IMHO. Also having paid for that professionalism, you should not need to check the oil before leaving - that's what you have just paid for!

I know many f us on here have the i-Carsoft JLR scanner, yes it costs more than your average AliExpress/ebay/Temu "jack of all trades" scanner but is worth it for the bespoke options it provides. Opinions may vary on the exact brand but a dedicated scanner/OBD-II reader is the way to go for what you need/want.

Hi Lez, you could try these people : https://www.warrantywise.co.uk/car-warranty/?utm_adgroup=used car warranty - exact&msclkid=8f613d35c856159b35e35438d16a7938&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Used Car Warranty - Exact Match&utm_term=Used Car Warranty&utm_content=Used Car Warranty - Exact There are other companies around that do similar where you can buy a warranty for a used car you've recently bought, good luck with it!

Press the lock/arm button on the fob rapidly about 6-10 times. Also if you have a spare key, check whether it will start with that, it's not unknown for a key with an RFID chip inside for the immobiliser to "lose" it's code and cease to operate the immobiliser disarm. Are you able to read the DTCs at all?

I came across Suffolk Sportscars (as i think they were called then) some 35 years ago when their range was just the one model, think it was a D Type replica or similar. First time i've seen one of their SS100 models and first knowledge i had of that model reincarnation. Beautiful to see and learn of its existence though.

Friendly local Timpsons?

What i did was got some 5mm thick angle aluminium, drilled some holes in the right place and fitted nutserts in. Then using some penny washers through the remains of the crash bar, bolted the aluminium to it. Then (i'd previously drilled holes and nutserts for the exhaust hanger) i bolted the hanger to it. Nobody would ever know and Mr MoT man gave a nod of approval.

Very likely to be the cause! Good luck with the clean up!

It does take time for the refrigerant to cycle through the system cooling as it goes, yes. You may be a little low on refrigerant or perhaps the pollen filter is blocked, both of which will slow things down. Also if your TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) is blocked or lazy this will slow things down further. However the work required to change the TXV is a lot so you'd have to consider the possible gains against doing the job. When i was working on brand new cars 30 years ago, the usual figure was at least 10 minutes before the AC started "pulling down" - that's in the UK so in the warmth of Sri Lanka, i'd expect another 5-10 minutes. The AC hasn't worked in my S Type since getting it so i can't offer a comparative figure but hoping to get it sorted fairly soon.

To be honest, 15-20 mminutes doesn't sound too bad. What part of the world are you in? If it's a hot climate, it could reasonably take longer than normal.

Are your headlamps LED or HID? If neither you could probably get away with non-adaptive (as a general rule of thumb) but i would anticipate lots of error messages and potential MoT (or Spansih equivalent) failures.