LairdScooby

You're welcome - as an afterthought, if it's not sensing the CKP, it could be the other sensor is doing what it should but as there's an incorrect signal from the CKP, it reads the other one as faulty too. I'd do a reset after fitting the CKP and see what you've got.

Welcome aboard and GLWTS - always wanted an XJ-S of that age and it has the twin headlamp conversion i've always preferred. Sadly i recently splashed out on something for practical purposes rather than an "occasional" car or i'd be biting your had off - i'm sure someone else will feel like i do so i doubt it'll hang around for long!

Here are some options on the CKP : https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=jaguar+f+pace+crank+position+sensor&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313 Can't find the other sensor you mention using your description on ebay but if you try the other usual suspects such as Amazon, ECP and so on you'll probably find one.

I've found a lot of YT posters do a "Part 1" and "Part 2" to increase their views. Might be worth tapping on the posters ID pic and then "Videos" to see if there's another in their collection explaining the refill procedure. It's different for many models in the Jaguar range so i don't want to mention the method i know in case i send you on a wild goose chase.

You'll know! 😉 Joking aside, if you drip some of the removed fluid onto a piece of plain white kitchen roll or toilet paper, you'll see the true colour and how much dirt is in there. Once it remains as clean as the new fluid (very slight discolouration may happen) then you know it's clean fluid and the 3-4 part-changes have done their job. Then do a part-change every 12 months/12000 miles to keep it fresh. Some people refer to this as a "sump-dump change" so you can search YouTube for it for an XKR and get an idea of what exactly is involved. Then you can decide if you're capable of doing it. I'd say it's easy enough but as we all know, what's easy for one person isn't for another. I'm absolutely useless with software and artistic painting but those who can do say it's easy enough..........

On that we definitely agree! All auto boxes should have periodic fluid changes, i'm an advocate of dong multiple part-changes when i first get a car (ATF history isn't usually documented or sometimes fudged by the "garage" doing it) so that the gearbox isn't subject to the shock of new thick fluid all in one go. Doing 3-4 part-changes a few hundred miles apart gives a full change as good (sometimes better) than a flushing change but with vastly reduced risks of blowing dry seals that will self-revive with the additives in the new fluid. Also important (especially on S Types, not so sure on others) to beware of different fluid requirements, up to 2002, it needed something along the lines of Dexron III/NAPA MVA/Carlube ATF-U and later cars need something light Dexron VI and i can't remember equivalents for that. Double check which box you have in your new XKR Lucas and pick the right fluid for the box, not what some "guide" says is needed for the car.

All good points Guy and i'd agree but with the proviso that because it's an estate/bereavement sale, the vendors may not know if/where any records exist. Had a similar scenario with my S Type, came with ~11 months MoT when i bought it and no apparent rust on the back end. A year later it failed on rear end of sills (both sides) which necessitated some creative art with sheet metal and several hours work with the electric glue. My view is that either it rusted spectacularly in that year or the previous custodian paid Mr Magoo to write the MoT certificate out. Possibly he overlooked some "surface rust" that was in fact worse than it appeared. This is what i advised the OP to confirm - the rust has been sorted. *** EDIT *** Nearly forgot, welcome aboard!

Have you told the car it has had a new battery fitted? Also have you tried locking the doors with the key and/or manually inside the car?

I can't be sure on this but i've a feeling Smarty piggy-backs off Vodafone so may be worth getting your original SIM checked that they work in normal phones and/or substituting a known working SIM into the car in case there's a fault in the car system, rather than the SIM cards.

Glad to hear you're all up and running again, worthwhile clearing that fault code for the furure - if something else happens and someone plugs in a reader it will show up and probably give a red herring to the diagnosis.

Get the seller to measure it then and let you know! 😛

It sounds like the cover on the hedlamp washers, should be safe enough to push back on if so but it might be the clip holding it has broken.

That looks like the LWB to me but others may have different opinions.

Yes, kits are available on ebay and/or your local motor factor relatively cheaply, usually about a fiver. However, if there is wear in the ball joint often it's is quicker and easier to renew complete, you'd need to look/check and see what the situation is.

It's normally just behind the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine. It's secured by a cap screw (5mm key as i recall, it's a Metric fastener so don't try a 3/16" Allen key as it will round out) and is awkward to get at but possible laying under a securely supported car. Patience is needed and a smear of silicone grease on the new "O" ring on the new sensor to help it slide in nicely. If the plug is dodgy as they deteriorate with age, you may want to go for what's known as a service kit that comes with a new plug with fly leads and you cut and connect them to the loom further back from the deteriorated area around the plug. Here are a few choices from Rock Auto : https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2002,x-type,2.5l+v6,1381182,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196 Good luck and hopefully that is the cause of your non-start.