LairdScooby

Hi Lez, you could try these people : https://www.warrantywise.co.uk/car-warranty/?utm_adgroup=used car warranty - exact&msclkid=8f613d35c856159b35e35438d16a7938&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Used Car Warranty - Exact Match&utm_term=Used Car Warranty&utm_content=Used Car Warranty - Exact There are other companies around that do similar where you can buy a warranty for a used car you've recently bought, good luck with it!

Press the lock/arm button on the fob rapidly about 6-10 times. Also if you have a spare key, check whether it will start with that, it's not unknown for a key with an RFID chip inside for the immobiliser to "lose" it's code and cease to operate the immobiliser disarm. Are you able to read the DTCs at all?

I came across Suffolk Sportscars (as i think they were called then) some 35 years ago when their range was just the one model, think it was a D Type replica or similar. First time i've seen one of their SS100 models and first knowledge i had of that model reincarnation. Beautiful to see and learn of its existence though.

Friendly local Timpsons?

What i did was got some 5mm thick angle aluminium, drilled some holes in the right place and fitted nutserts in. Then using some penny washers through the remains of the crash bar, bolted the aluminium to it. Then (i'd previously drilled holes and nutserts for the exhaust hanger) i bolted the hanger to it. Nobody would ever know and Mr MoT man gave a nod of approval.

Very likely to be the cause! Good luck with the clean up!

It does take time for the refrigerant to cycle through the system cooling as it goes, yes. You may be a little low on refrigerant or perhaps the pollen filter is blocked, both of which will slow things down. Also if your TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) is blocked or lazy this will slow things down further. However the work required to change the TXV is a lot so you'd have to consider the possible gains against doing the job. When i was working on brand new cars 30 years ago, the usual figure was at least 10 minutes before the AC started "pulling down" - that's in the UK so in the warmth of Sri Lanka, i'd expect another 5-10 minutes. The AC hasn't worked in my S Type since getting it so i can't offer a comparative figure but hoping to get it sorted fairly soon.

To be honest, 15-20 mminutes doesn't sound too bad. What part of the world are you in? If it's a hot climate, it could reasonably take longer than normal.

Are your headlamps LED or HID? If neither you could probably get away with non-adaptive (as a general rule of thumb) but i would anticipate lots of error messages and potential MoT (or Spansih equivalent) failures.

Fuel filter?

Given JLRs recent hacking problems, it might be more expedient to consult your friendly local independent Jag specialist. Often such specialists will have a stock of good used units on the shelf and will of course be able to fit/program as needed for your car.

You should be able to find a "secret" keyhole just under the chrome plinth on the bootlid - using the key to unlock the boot there should get you in.

Welcome aboard Andy, glad to hear your success story and long may that continue!

In that case, it's probably an old code, read the codes again, check there's nothing new and then erase them. Drive the car as normal and see if the codes and charge warning light come back. If the code does come back with the charge warning light, you'll have to take it to where the alternator was fitted, it should have come with some sort of warranty

What is your charging voltage? Often if there's an internal fault like a blown rectifier this will trigger the charge warning light. Also if the drive belt is loose it can happen plus a whole host of other causes.