LairdScooby

The point i was making wasn't that they were CANBus compatible (that is just a bonus) but the fact they are T10 LEDs so are a direct replacement. Day Running Lights are much brighter, in the UK they are 200-800Lm in brightness so considerably brighter than the H3 bulbs you repurposed. As for CANBus, i worked with the guy who developed/designed the I2C system which was the predecessor of the CANBus system as we now know it so i'm reasonably familiar with the workings of it - also the system will be looking for the resistance of a 5W bulb, ~24 Ohms - an H3 will (or at least should) be ~2.6 Ohms so the H3 LEDs could present an unexpected load to the CANBus system.

Stranger

Why didn't you just buy some CANBus compatible T10 LEDs? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334567810243?var=543657059804 Before : After : Same bulbs work well on the number plate lights too : Oh yeah, those are LED tail and stop/tail bulbs too. 😛 Don't know where you got your figures from but the standard 5W T10 bulb (aka W5W) is ~90Lm, the H3 should be 1200-1600Lm to give similar output to the halogen version it replaces and the T10 LED i linked to is ~120-150Lm.

Beach

Hi Dominic - crikey, a garage that opens at 7am??? 😮 I think i would look at getting the pre and post cat Lambda sensors eplaced before the cats, purely on a cost basis and also the fact the sensors are more likely to be tired/failed than the cats. Will be interesting to hear what the garage has to say and what the codes are. I think this week is going to be a hectic one with various things happening!

Broke

Engine

Metamorphosise

Re-invent

Horse

Generator

Hmmmm, sounds like what i refer to as a "compound fault" - one that has one set of symptoms but multiple causes. These usually only become apparent when one of them is fixed and cures part of the fault. It does sond like the catalogue of problems i have had with my Honda which started when i got it with the EML on and 12 1/2 months MoT - alarm bells immediately! The code putting the EML on was the knock sensor, Honda very cleverly hid this tiny little sensor where only contortionists with the reach of Guy the Gorilla and fingers/hands as small as Thumbelina could reach it. I had to create a tool using my 1/4" drive socket set and some 6mm bore fuel hose and a few other imaginative bits to be able to change it. All was good until the front brakes decided to start binding for no apparent reason, throwing the engine load/mixture out and causing the knock sensor light to reappear, aided and abetted by the PCV valve being weak and the hose to said PCV valve collapsing when warm. All of this has largely been intermittent so has been a nightmare to track down and much of it has been guesswork/hunches but on the upside, it has still been reliable. It's reading between the lines on fault codes on many occasions that lead to the real fault.

Reactor

Fusion

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134657907825 There you are Dominic, that should do everything you need it to do and it has free updates via USB so you can download to your PC then link to this unit and update it. Might even get one myself, i have an i-Carsoft JLR OBD-II reader that i bought used but as new condition from someone on here but would be handy to keep one of these in the Honda (especially at the moment!) insted of the i-Carsoft one.

Corona (discharge from HT tracking)

Crikey Dominic, i'd be a cheap neighbour as i barely drink! Was it Southwold? Many pleasure boats seem to find their way there. Switching the EML off just before the MoT is definitely one way round the problem, someone did that with my Honda before i bought it and i've had fun and games sorting it out as it wasn't as simple as a duff sensor! Turned out to be a brake problem that i'm currently fighting my way through - latest thing i will be fitting is a replacement ABS ECU/modulator assembly but many of the problems have been caused by poor and/or neglected servicing. When i get a minute (or 10!) i'll trawl ebay and find what should be a suitable OBD code reader and post a link on here for you.

Greyhound

Motor

Road

Cardinal

It's not quite as scary as it may sond Dominic, on each cat there is a pre-cat and a post-cat Lambda sensor which some refer to as Oxygen sensors. The pre-cat sensors check the mixture as it leaves the cylinders and the post-cat sensors check the mixture to ensure there is a higher oxygen content (and therefore lower CO content) to make certain the cats are working. These sensors have an internal heater to get them to work faster from cold, if it's one of the heaters gone then that sensor won't respond as it should but economy and performance should remain unaffected. It will bring the EML on though as the ECU will detect the heater not working. Sometimes people misinterpret the heater not working as the cat not getting up to temperature and not working, this isn't always the case though. This is why i asked for the exact code you were getting. I thought you had a code reader from how you mentioned things earlier but re-reading it, i think i was wrong. It's worth investing in even a cheap one so you can read (and often reset) the codes yourself. You can pick them up on ebay for under £20, there are some under a tenner even but very basic. Will be interested in hearing what this new garage has to say - also it's an MoT failure to have an EML on at the time of the test.

Point

Sentence

Tiara