LairdScooby

Immoral

Sorry but it's sold - i can say that because i bought it.

I've just had another look at the pic you provided of your rusty jacking point and marked in red where the floorpan has rotted away. Also marked is where the inner sill has rotted in yellow. There are other bits on the floorpan closer to where the fuel tank is that are questionable but tricky for me to be certain whether it's surface rust or gone through but they are the darker spots you can see near those brake lines in the bottom left of the pic. Not only will you be completely snookered if you get a flat tyre while out and about as that jacking point won't lift the car but the important bit is that the corrosion is within 30cm of a seat belt mount - in other words, an MoT failure point. To give you a bit more of an idea whaat's happening, mine rotted in the same place, both sides. I only took pics of the drivers side but you'll get the idea : Doesn't look too bad there but here are a few more once i'd cut the roten stuff away : The outer sill is completely cut away there and you can see the remains of the inner sill hanging down into the hole. Jaguar used several pieces to create the inner sill, alternately layering them and spot welding each piece to the next. I don't know if this was done to create a break-point for corrosion but it certainly worked as that! I used a similar idea but seam welded each layer so i wouldn't fall foul of the MoT regs, not that it could be seen easily with the outer sill repair piece in place but you get the idea. First inner sill repair piece in place, welds ground down and weld through primer applied, ready for the next piece. Now it's all finished and has a new MoT, i can certainly tell you it's as solid as, if not more solid than, when it left the factory. Despite the obvious curvy nature of the bodywork in general, there are no complicated compound curves except a very slight one at the rear end that can be pushed into place (even with 1.2mm sheet) to be welded then trimmed to suit after with the disc cutter. I wouldn't call myself an expert welder by any stretch of the imagination but was quite chuffed when i asked the tester "What's the verdict?" and the reply came "Yeah, that'll pass - nice job!". Like everything with bodywork, preparation is the bulk of the time, the actual welding took about 10% of the overall time i spent on it, most was prep work, making/shaping repair patches/panels. All in, i probably spent about 12-15 hours doing it all and out of that, about 1-1.5 hours was actual welding. Your big decision is whether to do it yourself, get a mate to do it at mates rates/mutual exchange of labour or put it in to a garage that can do it or a bodyshop. On a DIY basis, about £250 including buying a cheap gasless MIG, metal and consumables (wire, grinding/cutting discs etc) or likely to be £2500 at a bodyshop and the rest, somewhere in between. If you're keeping it, whatever the cost is shouldn't be an obstacle, if you're selling it then get it done as a buyer would likely offer scrap value if they saw the current state of your sills, not to mention calling into question if the MoT tester was Mr Magoo! Once done, if you're selling, get another MoT done as i wouldn't feel confident buying a car that had been passed with that level of corrosion and an alleged 12 month ticket! Probably not all of what you wanted to hear but i think others will agree that nobody wants to see you driving around in an unsafe car!

Misleading

Fraudster

Once upon a time, being a cowboy was a trade. Now it usually means a lack of one.

Trade (or now, lack of.......)

Stampede

Fee

Enemy

Raptor

Glad to hear you now have an answer, even if not the one you wanted! 😮 Congrats on the MoT pass too! 😉 😄

Vultures

Obedience

Overlooked

Omitted

Extinct

Dodo

Does

If you have a look at this ebay listing, scroll through the pics and you can see everything is bolt-on : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295592138840 Purely out of curiosity, what was the car you had that was allegedly bolt-on wings but you found they were welded?

Welcome aboard Craig! If you're looking for a classic Jag as a weekend car, an XJ40 would be a good bet. Assuming you can find one that is solid and has a good service history, you shouldn't go too far wrong. They drive in a very modern way but still have the classic looks and age so classic insurance shouldn't be a problem. After that, a Series III XJ6 would also be good but expect much more body roll (softer suspension) and do an even more thorough inspection for tinworm. The XK engines are nearly bombproof though so as long as there are no untoward squeaks, rattles, knocks etc from any part of the car, anothe good option. Thirstier and slower than the XJ40 though but you do have two fuel tanks so the range is good.

It's not unknown for cars to hang around in dealers before being sold, often they will run a demonstrator car on trade plates for extended periods and/or the car may have originally gone to say Penzance, not sold after 6 months so was transferred to Dundee and sat there for 6 months until a dealer in London said they had a customer. Said customer would then back out of the deal after the dealer transferred the car to them so it would sit another 6 months until finding its first owner. Tha's 18 months after first build so could eaily be a 2009 car registered in 2011 if you see what i mean.

I'm about to embark on similar rust repairs to the rear of my sills, following an MoT failure a few days ago. My tester wasn't quite as generous as yours, obviously! The big thing with rust is to nip it in the bud before it spreads, even if you just spray rust neutraliser/converter in/on those panels for now so they don't get worse before you get time to repair it properly. Those bushes don't look too bad, it's the subframes that would bother me to be honest. As for your brake imbalance, chances are the sliders and/or calipers have siezed through lack of use, you may find driving it up to ~30mph and hitting the brakes hard a few times will help "rebalance" them but also try driving along with the brakes lightly applied before doing that. The heat generated will help shift the stuck calipers/slides. Very true but that's why we're all here, it is something different from the Euro-blob norm that so many people blindly accept as cars these days!

Sicily

Napoleon