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Nige005 last won the day on December 6 2016

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About Nige005

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  1. Thanks Jim, I'm looking forward to that, nothing like a bit of fishing ! I had to buy a couple of small bulbs for the climate control panel a couple of weeks ago and at £9 each ( inc p & p ) I thought that was bad enough. Seems that any XK spares that begin with the letter " B " have a premium attached ! 😀
  2. Thanks for that Jim. Having trawled the 'net for several hours it seems that a new badge is the only option. I was really hoping to find a " stick on " insert that would stick in/over the " holder," that would have been cheaper and easier than a whole new badge. It seems that these things are available for other marques but not for Jaguar. So it seems that I will have to bite the bullet and spend what seems a lot of money just for a badge 😢. Having accepted that this solution is the only option I still don't know how to remove the old badge and fit the new one. Anyone ?
  3. Noticed today that the Boot Lid Badge on my X100 4 litre is a bit odd to say the least. Looks like someone has removed ( stolen ) the actual badge bit, the round " holder " is still there but all it's showing is a shiny dome, not what I want. A search on the net has shown that there are a few new ones around but at around £60 a go, a bit heavy. I was hoping to find on a stick on decal which would fit into the " holder " but no luck there at all. So three questions. 1. Anyone know a source for a decal to fit into the " holder. " 2. A source for a new badge at less than £60, I don't mind second hand. 3. If I am forced into a new badge does anyone know how to remove and refit. To be clear it is the round badge on top of the Boot Lid which says " Jaguar 4 Litre, " if anyone has the Part Number that may be useful too. Thanks everyone.
  4. Even if you can't open either door due to mechanical problem in the locks either charge or replace the battery and then you should be back to normal and be able to unlock the doors by using the key fob.Unless you have a new - ish " smart charger " I would recommend disconnecting the battery before connecting the charger.
  5. A quick update. After leaving the garage noticed a squeal from the Alternator Belt area at certain revs. Took it back to fix and it turned out that the Pulley which came with the re manufactured Alternator was ever so slightly different so it was trying to push the Belt off. Moral is very simple - save yourself work and/or hassle and check very carefully that the new Pulley is identical to the old one.. If in doubt put the old Pulley on to the new Alternator.
  6. XK 8 Faulty Alternator – Symptoms And Cure. I suffered this last week and it was a little confusing so I thought that I’d post my experience here in the hope that it might help and reassure anyone else that develops the same problem. The car had been standing for a week and on starting up I noticed that the Odometer/mpg display was flickering, at this point everything else seemed normal, no fault indications. Then I noticed that the Voltmeter had gone up to 17 Volts, the first time ever that I had seen this go over the top dead centre position. I tested the battery voltage with a digital meter whilst the engine was running, this fluctuated from around 11 Volts up to 17 Volts, something wasn’t right. On looking more closely at things this is what I discovered :- There was no indication of Alternator failed or failing – this confused me more than I usually am. Odometer/mpg display – flickering and going from normal brightness to very low brightness and then to very bright. All other lights flickering. Traction Control Fail message. Stability Control Fail message. Gearbox Fault message. ABS Failed indication. Autodrop on windows behaving even worse than usual ! Indicators “ Ticker “ making abnormal noises, double tick, fast tick and normal tick, usually the dashboard indicator not showing, not sure if the indicators were working or not, I didn’t check. Gearstick locked in “ Park, “ on pressing the brake pedal the clicking that indicates that the unlocking solenoid was working was not there. I resolved this temporally by stopping and then restarting the engine. If this hadn’t worked I would have had to remove the TORX screw adjacent to the Gearstick and mechanically released the lock by pressing the lever under here. When driving ( don’t risk things by driving any further than you absolutely have to ) engine RPM was sluggish to respond and seemed that it may have been limited. There may have been more indications that I didn’t notice but this is more than enough to be going on with – I was already in full panic mode and didn’t need any top up of stress juice……….. A little later, having calmed down, rational thought kicked in and I exercised some of the few remaining grey cells that I still have. It seemed to me that a faulty Alternator was the cause of all these problems, probably the Regulator Pack. I think that it was still providing some charge, hence no Alternator warning light, and even at times too much charge but that the charging voltage probably had a fair bit of unwanted AC voltage along with the very desirable and much needed DC…….. I went with this diagnosis and did some searching for a replacement Alternator. I found that there are a few options :- Non-OEM Re Manufactured exchange guaranteed for two years – about £120 Non-OEM new guaranteed for two years – about £145 Original part, not sure about the guarantee – about £190 I went for the Non-OEM re manufactured one as not only was it the cheapest AND guaranteed but it was also immediately available locally. My local indy obtained and fitted this for me, took two hours in labour costs. Panic over ! Everything back to normal. The car that is, not that sure about me! If you ever get similar confusing symptoms bear these notes in mind and don’t immediately roll up your sleeves and reach for the razor blades, you may find that things are not as bad as they appear, I hope that, like me, you will be lucky.
  7. Just found a pic of my sons long gone 06 Yaris V5 and that DOES list the number of seats - confused or what !
  8. Please do Steve, will be interested to hear the outcome. I don't have copies of any of my long sold cars Log Books but I do seem to think that the Number Of Seats on these older log books did have entries, or am I just going senile ? ! To try and reassure myself I've just googled Number of Seats issue and the only definite comment I can find is that some V5's do have number of seats listed and some don't. I can't find any reason why this so I remain, as ever, terminally confused........
  9. On my 1998 XK8 the " Number Of Seats Including Driver " is left blank, no entry at all. This is in both the Vehicle Details and New Keepers Details sections of the V5. It is the same on the V5 for my other car, so it would seem that the Irish " V5," or their equivalent, is different so I can't help. Maybe any Irish members on here could comment and help you.
  10. Could try Auto Reserve, they have a lot of stuff and all their used parts are tested and guaranteed, I've found them very good. Follow the link for details. Good luck.
  11. Whatever you decide on enjoy the search - hope you find what you want.
  12. I bought my XK8 a few years ago from a friend who upgraded to an XKR. I prefer the looks and the analogue instruments of the XK8 but there is no doubt that the XKR has a bit of an edge in performance. I also like the " flappy paddles " of the XKR but whether or not I would use these on a regular basis is another matter, the older I get the lazier I become ! Certainly prefer a hard-top. A soft-top sounds appealing but I've owned convertibles in the past and found that once the novelty wears off the roof tends to stay closed for most of the time. As a hard-top provides more comfort, despite an occasional urge to go for a convertible, I'd resist this and stick with a solid tin roof ! So far me it's all down to personal preference. I'm sure that you are aware of the potential costs of running either of these cars. The XKR, which is 10 years younger than my XK8, doesn't seem to be any better, or worse, for reliability and the odd faults and in fact seems worse for underbody corrosion issues than my XK8. Right now I'd keep my XK8 but as we both grow older I'd certainly consider an " R, " never had a Supercharged car so maybe that itch will have to be scratched at some point...
  13. Looks like you have better prices there than we have here ! Took me a while to find this one so I was just pleased to find it. Since then I've been told that Ford use the same stuff so a visit to a Ford dealer may give you some results.
  14. I use this in mine. It's about £10 a litre and I buy from Opie oils here in the UK, ( via eBay )a reliable and respected supplier of oils and fluids. Whether or not it's available in the US is of course another matter. Opie will send to the US but I dread to think what the cost may be. Motul Inugel Optimal Coolant / Antifreeze OAT Orange Nitrite free, amine free, phosphate free, borate free, silicate free. Color Visual Orange fluo Density at 20°C/68°F ASTM D4052 1.056 PH ASTM D1287 8.4 Initial crystalization ASTM D1177 -27.5°C/-17.5°F Freezing Protection -37°C Pour Point ASTM D97 -32.5°C/-26.5°F Boiling Temperature 134°C/273°F (+1.5 bar) Alkalinity Reserve ASTM D1121 2.4 mg KOH/g
  15. Fingers crossed for you Jeff. I believe that the cable from the gearstick to the Rotary switch has to be adjusted correctly as well so it may be worthwhile googling the procedure to do this, especially as your gearstick seems to be loose. Pretty sure I found instructions somewhere on how to do this when I was researching the problem. I've also read that the Switch underneath the Gearstick can cause a similar problem and given that your gearstick itself seems to have a problem that may be worth a look too. Lets us all know how you get on, the more knowledge we have the better able we all can be to keep things going ! Meanwhile - Happy Christmas !