Lazlo Woodbine

You're welcome.

I seem to remember that to get the passenger window to move you need to have the switch on that door plugged in, awkward.

Also, be careful of the rod that runs from the door latch up to the exterior handle. Moving it can make the window move on its own, that's not fun when your hand's in the way.. I think it must be something to do with the full closure locking doodah. I only had it happen with the drivers door but the passenger side may be the same.

Thinking about if you do run into trouble with the regulator plug being different then you won't want to wait for me to reply so I'll tell you what I did; Now it is a bit of a bodge but I had to get it back together so I didn't have much choice. The pins lined up fine but the socket on the regulator was a different shape to the plug so I cut the hollow part off leaving the bit around the pins intact and attached the plug with a cable tie and several wraps of self-amalgamating tape. Just make sure to test the window before putting it together properly to make sure the switch isn't working backwards as without the socket it's possible to get the polarity wrong.

Take the rubber mat out of the bottom of the "handle" (not the release handle, the bit you pull the door shut with) on the door trim to expose two philips screws, remove them.

The door trim will now pull off the door, it feels like it's going to break but it you got all around it pulling carefully it wont.

The plastic around the door release handle is awkward and you'll just have to fiddle with it to get it past the handle.

Before walking away with the trim in your hands undo the electrical connectors. They're all different to each other so you can't get them mixed up.

The regulator is held in by four nuts or bolts (I've seen both) with a normal 10mm hexagonal head. Once they're undone it's just a case of wriggling the assembly out and undoing its electrical plug. It's surprisingly easy actually, as is fitting the new regulator.

Ensure all electrical connectors are back together and test them before putting the trim back on. Refitting the trim involves lining up the plastic clips. Make sure you do otherwise you'll get broken clips.

Note: I fitted a used aftermarket regulator from a 2000 car and the plug was different to the one in my 2002 car which was odd. If you have the same issue get back to me and I'll explain what I did. 

I quite like the funny looks. Mind you I could be well within the age demographic and still not match the image of the car..

Well done for diving in there and repairing it. I would have thought a fuse of a breaker of some sort between the DCCV and control unit would save it next time. My car has the older unit so I haven't really looked into it to be honest.

That's great knowing that it has a good service history. His loss is your gain!

Welcome. I think I'm fair way below average age at 35, I reckon you probably are the youngest. 

A donor car's a great thing to have. My advice is to make a list of all the bits you know don't work on it or you've already taken off, it can save a lot of aggro later..

A faulty DCCV can often cause a climate control module fault on face lift cars like yours. I messed about with one for ages before finding out that someone had not only done it all before but written down everything it took me a day to work out. http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/

If it's an auto then it's worth changing the gearbox Oil at 60k. Jaguar say it's filled for life, that's nonsense.

Go here: http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do

Put you VIN in and you should get a fairly comprehensive build log showing what options you car has.

That's a shame. I must admit that the significant difference in temperature left to right that you described made me think DCCV. But I was hopeful that it could be down to flaps due to the scratching sound.

Check out that link I posted above and have a look at the DIY section. I'm not suggesting you delve into it yourself but it could be very useful to know when looking for someone to do repairs. Bare in mind it's an American site so some translating may be required.

Nice looking hund by the way.

You're welcome.

Lettuce know how you get on with your car. If you need or want more input then just ask away, it's what the forum's for.

Just in case you do end up suspecting the DCCV don't let a garage just replace it. Anyone worthy of working on a car is capable of testing it first. This popular tactic of just changing parts until the problem goes away is wasteful and wrong. Unfortunately main dealers are often the worst for this lazy approach, personal opinion.

There is a procedure for resetting the blender flaps. They can get out of sync and make scratchy noises in the dash as one or more try to go past their stops. It's worth doing this sooner rather than later as the motors are DC and don't appreciate being powered with nowhere to go. They can fail, but all four at once? No, the chances are so minuscule that I'm happy to say that that is absolutely not the case here.

• Select full cooling -Lo
• Select full heating - Hi
• Back to full cooling
• Select face followed by floor
• Then select face again
• Finally select defrost

A favourite cause of hot-one-side, cool-the-other is a faulty DCCV or Dual Climate Control Valve. It's an electric solenoid controlled water valve (like the fill valve on a washing machine) which regulates the flow of water to the heater matrix. One side of it failing can cause the symptom you describe. But I would try to get the flaps to behave themselves before delving into that.

This is a very handy site; http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/

The major expense there will be the suspension arm bush. Jaguar only offer a complete arm and not individual bushes. Their rationale is that us mere mortals could never change the bushes without cocking it up and damaging their finely crafted aluminium arm.

Well that's rubbish in my opinion, several companies sell after-market bushes and a good garage should have no qualms about fitting them to the arms. I'm not a qualified mechanic and I did just this the other week. See the link below for my write up.

I'd wager that the garage is quoting for a whole arm as most, if not all, motor factors don't offer the bushes. While it's true that the labour costs will be higher the savings on parts will far outweigh them. You should be able to get both sides re-bushed for far less than one side this way. It's good practice to balance suspension work side-to-side plus the other side will not be far behind the one that's failed.

The dust boots are worthwhile assuming the ball-joints have no play in them of course. If the drop links show even the slightest wear then just have them replaced as they're relatively cheap considering you will be paying for labour.

I touch on the subject of track rods in the post above and would say that if they need replacing then it's definitely worth spending the money on quality, maybe even genuine, ones. The cheapy ones I had were awful and actually made the car dangerous to drive in no time at all. 

I don't know if this is of any help at all but; My S-type has electric folding mirrors and someone hit one at some speed a while ago folding it back against the door. After this it was very loose and would fold back and forth with very little effort and no dedent. I had to set the switch the folded position and then manually move the mirror shell about until it clicked and re-engaged with the motor mechanism. It may be worth trying a similar procedure with yours.

I think I'm correct in saying that the vast majority of users here are in the UK. If you want to try selling it abroad then it would be worth pointing out how easy it can be to export/import cars between US/UK respectively. Showing that you're willing to organise what's necessary on your side would surely help swing any potential buyers who are intimidated by the idea of importing a car. You are on the right coast for it to come in this direction at least!

We get a lot of rust here and so the state of your cars bodywork would be a pivotal issue and worth mentioning in your advert. I hope you find it a good home.

It would definitely be worth getting that switch working what it should before looking elsewhere.

In case you haven't dealt with those rear door windows before I'll tell you about them; The glass sits in a short channel which is part of the regulator. There is a hole of about 1/4" though the sides of the channel and a corresponding one in the glass. There's a two piece plastic plug that passes right through to secure the regulator and glass together. The big piece looks like a roll pin and the smaller piece pushes inside of it to swell it and make a tight fit. Make sure the small piece is well in there or both will fall out and cause mayhem, I know.. There should be a small round black sticker on the inner skin of the door covering a hole which will line up with the hole in the channel of the regulator when it's about halfway up. It's not very generous but short of a hole-saw it's the best you'll get.

The driver and passenger front door switch works all the locks on mine.

I don't entirely trust my central locking either. I left a punk gig and went to the Jag (now that's punk) opened the boot to change some CDs, closed the lid and the alarm went off and all the doors locked. l had put the key down in the boot and forgot to pick it up again, that was a fun night..

The other week I dropped my wife off and hopped out to get her bag out the boot. key in, engine running. She closed her door, I closed the boot and when I went to get back in I found the whole car had locked but didn't arm. The dog was in there and we were twenty miles from home. Thankfully the windows were open so I just reached in and unlocked it, it would have been smashed window time otherwise.

Now I make a habit of never leaving the key in unless a window's down. I haven't been able to make it lock itself erroneously by trying, it just seems to be a rare random occurrence.

None of that was any help was it!

S-types have a short wire rope cable running from the boot lock mechanism to the release solenoid as do many cars. Although of course it should be hidden behind the trim panel.

Does the boot work normally and what happens if you pull the cable in question?  

I like the idea that it's an American spec thing, Goodfellas would've turned out very differently if they had had internal boot lid releases...

I second Joe on the smart charger. Only once you know the battery is reliable is it worth looking elsewhere for faults.

I'm sorry to hear about your experience. People can be monstrous in their cars, feeling all safe and isolated from the real world. And yet on the street many of them wouldn't dare look you in the eye, cowards.

I stopped only the other week after witnessing a minor car accident. I helped the lady who's car had been hit by taking photos of the scene and making her car moveable so as to clear the road. People were swearing at us and wheel spinning around the crashed vehicles. I'm yet to see such an event bring out the best in anyone as those heart-warming stories we hear say they do.

Sorry, I didn't mean to appear facetious.

I'd be interested to see what direction Ford Australia's model line up takes from here. I believe the decision to kill off a brand name usually has its origins in the marketing department. The Ford Escort here in Britain was replaced by the Focus. A car which underneath the radical new styling was very similar in ethos and design to the mk6 Escort. "Escort" was a household name and I can't imagine the decision to move on was taken likely. However, that was nearly twenty years ago and I don't wonder if the Falcon replacement will be a genuine departure in not only marketing, but also technical terms.

In general the relatively lazy engine with the potential to cover quarter of million miles without being opened now appears to be eschewed in favour of an over-boosted, small capacity engine running close to it's limits under normal use. I don't see the dust-to-dust emissions improving, in fact I believe they will increase. I hope that this apparent trend does not continue with the Falcon's replacement.

Quietly I would take an XR8 or XR6T over an S-type R, the manual transmission swings it.

My car has the mechanical handbrake and I don't have any direct experience of the Jaguar EPB set up so I don't know what the calibration procedure is, if indeed there is one.

However I will say this; Don't wind the piston right back as it will likely cause a problem with the EPB. Just go far enough to get the pads in and no further.

Some pistons can be wound back in by hand and some will be a struggle with a wind back tool and the bleed nipple undone, it seems to be a bit of a lottery. My pistons go in clockwise and I had to use a wind back tool but was able to leave the nipples alone..

This is the generic one below, I paid about £15 for mine. There are of course clockwise and anti-clockwise versions.

PS. I did find that putting the plate of the tool in the caliper in the way that looks "right" actually tilts the whole tool so that the pins don't engage properly on the piston crown. I put the plate in "upside down" and it was better but not great.

Thinking about it now a quick massage of the plate with an angle grinder would have been the solution.

12 hours ago, Dutchy805 said:

 

 

 

If taken as read I beg to differ;

5000 KW+ Wartsila diesel

Here's a link to a thread I started in the S-type section recently.

Please post any questions or replies on the original thread otherwise things will get messy.

Here's a link to a thread I started in the S-type section recently.

Please post any questions or replies on the original thread otherwise things will get messy.

Here's a link to a thread I started in the S-type section recently.

Please post any questions or replies on the original thread otherwise things will get messy.

I fitted the lamps. I think they look quite good...

..compared to the standard ones.

Here's a picture of the car with one of each, unfortunately there's a water droplet on the camera lens over the original lamp.

I did consider leaving chrome on just the bevelled edge around the clear section of lens to give a little detail. However removing the chrome as I did made that tricky, maybe I'll try it with another pair.

I don't think there's a flat surface on them! My dad's got one of those electric oscillating tools, a bodgers friend as he calls it. I may well try that, my only worry is that it may shatter the plastic lens which is probably the most brittle part. You can only go in about 10mm before hitting the part that gets de-chromed (we should officially name these different parts for ease. But that said, I named the piece of water pipe from my suspension bush thread "the pusher" but my dad kept singing Steppenwolf every time I said it so I had to just call it "water pipe"). You can actually see where I caught it in one of the photos above, fortunately it's not visible when re-assembled.

The standard lamps go for naff all money on eBay, my guess is they don't fail or get broken too often. There's certainly a lot of bumper sticking out past them! If a Jag breaker would do a big box of them that would probably be the way to go, certainly as far as delivery costs go. The chap I bought my grill off was very fair, he chucked in a badge that goes for a tenner or so on eBay for free just with me asking what he wanted for it.

Thank you for the offer of bits but I'll pass the moment as I don't know how soon I'll be able to do another set. Mastic's a good idea, if the edges could be cut neater than I did it then a nice bead of that could probably take the place of glue on that face. It's the one that really needs sealing as the water from the boot gutter flows down that way.

I suffered a broken back last year and have only just started cycling again, very gentle forest loops on the XC bike so far. I hoping to be hitting some bigger stuff by the end of the year and maybe get back to doing some DH riding. I recently got my first carbon part, some bars for my "hardcore" hardtail but I'm not entirely confident in the fancy wonder plastic yet, I think they will be going on the XC bike instead.

It could well be.

Bare in mind that any car's charging system is simply not designed to charge a flat battery. The best thing to do is charge it properly out of the car. Preferably with a self regulating "smart" charger, that is one that automatically switches to low amperage for a really low battery. Personally I use Optimate ones but C-TEK are popular and I'm sure there are many other options.

As long lived as car batteries can be, draining them and then not charging them back up properly will shorten their lives dramatically. Hooking up a seemingly healthy battery to one of these "smart" chargers once in a while is not a bad idea, especially with all the voltage sensitive modules and wotnots in modern vehicles.