dattrike

Hopefully this will help:

Battery reset:- 
 
Have radio code to hand BEFORE disconnecting battery. 
Restart the clock (where fitted) and set it to the correct time. 
Enter your radio code or if you do not have it then follow backdoor code below 
The code only works once you have entered the failed code 3 times 
Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT" 
Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on. 
You must press the buttons together i.e. at the same time 
 
Windows each window 
1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one-touch" up function. 
Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 
2. Release the window control switch. 
3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 
4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully open position ("one-touch" down). 
5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up) automatically. 
• NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("onetouch" up), repeat the complete procedure. 
Operate the window control switch once to the close position. 
6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window motor. 
 
EPB reset 
1 Switch off ignition. 
2 Disconnect battery for 30 seconds reconnect battery (not required if battery changed). 
3 Start the engine. 
4 Confirm that the message "NOT CALIBRATED" or "APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE" is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates the the parking brake is in calibration mode. 
5 Lightly press the foot brake. 
6 Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch. 
7 Release the parking brake. 
8 Release the foot brake. 
9 Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument pack and that "NOT CALIBRATED" message is no longer displayed in the message centre. 
10 apply and release the EPB 5 times to ensure no error is present. 
 
Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature as the stored idle and drive values contained within the ECM have been lost. 
Allow the vehicle to idle for a further three minutes. 
Drive the vehicle at constant speeds of approximately 48 km/h (30 mph), 64 km/h (40 mph), 80 km/h (50 mph), 96 km/h (60 mph) and 112 km/h (70 mph) for three minutes each. 
This may cause a driveability concern if the procedure is not carried out. This will allow the ECM to relearn idle values.

Note: My car is a 57 plate, the radio reset does not work with mine, I phoned my local Jaguar dealer who supplied the code for free.

I've replaced mine, it is easy, when fitting the replacement it seems like it is too long, but it will fit with a bit of persuasion, ie, give it a good thump with your hand to get it to seat properly. 

direct link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Intercooler-Genuine-OE-Quality-Replacement-Part-/391344332926?hash=item5b1df0a07e:g:4pYAAOSw14xWJ3Vq

HTH

I generally use tapatalk on my phone when out and about, just recently this forum keeps asking me to log in then saying I'm not a member. I have logged on with my laptop and changed my password all to no avail, tapatalk still does not recognize me. Several other forums I use are working properly, even though tapatalk has updated its self several times recently. Anyone shed any light please?

The reset did not work on my 2007 S type either after a battery change, I phoned my local Jaguar dealer with the registration number expecting them to ask for the chasis number as well but they didn't ask for it, they phoned me back after 30 minutes with the correct code. It may be worth a try unless the dealer you used was a genuine Jaguar dealer.

Just had a quick look on google is this any help?

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjkteHj0MbQAhWHLMAKHVIsB-EQFgg8MAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cornwallremapexperts.co.uk%2Fjaguar-vehicle-remaps&usg=AFQjCNFYkePlI2gNFOIiXUYTu4NstzJvFQ

Hi Kieth,

Most dash cams power cables are fitted with mini USB plug to either a cigar lighter plug or a USB plug. If its a cigar lighter plug, its possible to cut this off, strip the wires and wire it into a live socket in the fuse box but the dash cams work on very low amperage so beware, too high an amperage will fry it!

 

You need to strip the cigar socket and keep the board inside, and connect the 12 volt supply from the socket part to an ignition on source. The output is 5 volts to the micro USB. Make sure the board is well insulated.

Thanks Paul, I thought it was the right grade Oil, just wanted independent confirmation really. I can supply them with a calibrated laser thermometer if they need one.

Thanks again

Dave T

The correct way is to modify the head and have hardened valve seats fitted, then you can use unleaded petrol without additives. I think the timing has to be adjusted as well.

For occasional use Castrol valve master or Castrol valve master + work well. (From a colleague who runs a 1300 mini)

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjQ15bPl5nQAhVLFMAKHXe-BRAQFghCMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.opieoils.co.uk%2Fp-6519-castrol-valvemaster-plus-lead-replacement-octane-boost-petrol-additive.aspx&usg=AFQjCNGQQbSDEhZ5dSgfq6XChTKB6fIepg&sig2=OmkX0IQe8_0785PP8U2mEw

I have just posted in the S type forum with a link to e bay, I was searching for a way to check the post before submitting and could not see a way to do it. On the Rover 75 forum I frequent  there is a 'Review' button which shows the post as it will appear once submitted so spelling and link mistakes can be corrected before finally pressing the 'Submit' button. I know it is just as easy to submit, then check to make sure all is satisfactory and use the edit facility. Just an observation really, would a 'Review' button be possible? Thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings.

I have searched the forum and found a lot of very useful information, just to be certain, is this a suitable item to buy i.e the correct grade oil:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-2-7DIESEL-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-GEARBOX-SUMP-FLUID-C2C38963-7LTRS-/301596789251?hash=item463891ca03:g:DRkAAOSwiwVWSxOD

If suitable then I will get my local garage to do the work for me.

Any alternatives or recommendations gratefully received, thanks in advance.

Hi Peter,

Me too, still got my 2.5 V6 Rover, but scratched the itch for an S type. Welcome by the way.

These are my figures since December 21st last year when I bought the car, copied from my Excel file I keep.

Worst was 24MPG, mucky air filter changed and made a big difference, best was 38 MPG going to Cornwall and back.

2 minutes ago, ChrisH60 said:

Hi everyone, I'm a first time Jag owner, (long time coming) and I've had it 5 days now. When I first got it, the drivers seat and steering wheel moved backward and forwards when the key was put in and removed. I liked that, helped get in and out. I set the memory for my seat and saved it. Since then, they don't retract when the key is removed. What have I done wrong? All help is gratefully received.

There is a switch on the left side of the steering column make sure that is set to auto as that sets the drivers seat right back and down low when the key is removed. I inadvertently moved mine to column and found the seat did not move when the key was removed. It also moves the wheel up and in towards the dash if you have set it in a different position.

After the recent flat battery saga, took the car for MOT today, passed ok. Advisories for front brake pads getting low and two tyres getting near wear limits. So two new tyres ordered, having Falken Ziex ZE-914's fitted Tuesday PM. I have a set of them on the Rover 75 and am impressed with them.

I asked the tester to check the sills at the rear, fortunately all ok, so this year so far the car has/will cost me about £550 once the new tyres are fitted, four wheel alignment carried out and new pads fitted, just the insurance (£229) 15th of this month, and tax (£290) to pay for by December!!! Quite happy with that really as tyres, pads, tax and insurance are standard running costs. Hopefully set now for another year of happy motoring.

My 2007 2.7 diesel had the same problem, battery going flat very quickly, just got it back from the garage, the problem was the glow plug relay unit sticking on, new relay unit fitted by garage all ok now, (£57 for the unit).

Further update:

Took the car to the local garage, they diagnosed glow plug relay stuck on (hence the battery drain), probably caused by the broken battery terminal, they ordered and fitted said unit, everything fine now I'm £200 lighter though. Happy with that though as apparently it's difficult to get at. I had to contact H A Fox in Cheltenham for the radio code, which they supplied free of charge, as the radio reset method in Paul's document only works on cars up to 2006. As everything has been reset, the car seems more responsive especially when accelerating quickly from stationary. Hopefully with a bit of "spirited" driving it will stay more responsive. All in all happy result for me.

Lovely car, what price is it?

50 amp battery drain does sound like a short somewhere (a big one). Can I ask how you are measuring that? If possible try and pull off the connection to the alternator to rule that out perhaps?

I'm using an amp probe from work, it encircles a cable and measures the current in the cable. Unfortunately due to replacement knees I can't get under a car like I used to. I have only had the car 6 months, I don't even know where the alternator is on the engine ( hangs head in shame 😩 ) it's been so reliable. The problem is with the thicker positive cable which runs to the front of the car which is the starter cable I think. I will have another look at the weekend.

Update,

Refitted the fully charged original battery, put the clamp meter on and connected the negative terminal and got a reading of a 50 amp drfain, quickly removed the negative terminal, there was a beeping from under the bonnet, the alarm went off as well. Reconnected the battery and locked the doors to stop the alarm, then disconnected the battery again, that stopped the beeping after locking the car.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram I can use ( 57 plate diesel ) to look at the battery and associated fuse boxes and the charging circuit.It is almost looking like the positive lead from the battery is partially shorting somewhere. I unfortunately cannot kneel down any more, so I will contact my local garage to see if they can pick the car up and sort it for me, but I'd like to point them in the right direction.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Gary, thanks to all for the replies, old battery has now reached full charge after two days so will refit tomorrow after work. I use the Lidl copy of the C tech, I will borrow the amp clamp meter from work to see what the actual drain is as the fuses are removed.

I drove back from visiting Mum on Saturday (25 miles aprox), when I started the car there was a feint ticking sound from behind the dash/under bonnet, thought nothing of it as car started straight away. Got home and parked on drive as normal. Sunday I was going to take the car to the local car wash,the remote did not unlock the doors, tried the spare remote, same thing no sound from the door actuators. Flat battery instantly popped to mind as the car still has the original 2007 battery fitted. Checked the battery voltage, 0.45 volts. Took the battery out of the Jaguar to discover that the Negative terminal clamp had broken. A quick trip to Halfords for a Negative terminal and earth lead, took the battery off the Rover 75 fitted it into the space and connected it up, a small spark when I connected the negative (expected), started the car everything seemed ok, reset the park brake, windows etc. Went out to the car today to go to battery megastore for a new battery, totally flay battery again. I borrowed SWMBO's car and got my new battery. Took the Rover battery off, fitted the new Jaguar sized one, connected the positive, put my multimeter to check the quiescent current drain and discovered a drain of over 10 amps.

Sorry for the long preamble, but my question is, has the broken negative terminal clamp caused a spike and blown something, my best guess is alternator diode pack, but I don't want to totally flatten the new battery whilst I check the charging voltage with the engine running, so any suggestions would be very welcome.

PS waiting for the old battery to charge up before reconnecting it to do charge voltage test.

Good job, looking at the tyre was the bollard in a muddy field? ☺

Driving into Burnham on sea for a few days away with swmbo saw another S type, I waved and got a wave back.[emoji122] [emoji636]

They look like Mercury alloys, lovely wheels 😊