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Here are some options on the CKP : https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=jaguar+f+pace+crank+position+sensor&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313 Can't find the other sensor you mention using your description on ebay but if you try the other usual suspects such as Amazon, ECP and so on you'll probably find one.

Hi all, New to the club, but have wanted an F pace for a long time , albeit it I'm repairing a damaged car! 😕, I have 2 fault codes , P0715 input/turbine speed sensor and P2617 crankshaft position signal output circuit/open, Questions are, are they expensive, and would I be able to change them myself?, Any advice would be greatly appreciated 😊👍

Hi Nicholas, suggest you talk to the folks at SNG Barrett for more insight, but be aware that they also will want to sell you the parts. The best person I know to ask about the upgrade to this type of Jaguar is Ken Jenkins, who trades his garage as Carlton Autos Ltd. Website link below. Ken Jenkins Jaguar Specialists - Classic Jaguar Spares N6 JMX

Hi Mark, not exactly in London, but I have heard good things about Cotswold Automotive Parts (CAP) in Oxfordshire, who have repaired a number of electronic faults on members cars in the past. Website link below: Jaguar & Land Rover parts and accessories | Bicester N6 JMX

Hi Ade, welcome to the Forum and sounds like you have a plan in mind for your Jaguar. Not sure that red leather in the XF was ever an option but I am sure others with more knowledge will be along soon. If it wasn't an "off the shelf" choice from new, you may have to get creative and go for a full retrim of the seats. In the meantime, you could try a few of the specialised Jaguar Breakers, like Autoreserve or Eurojags, they would seem like the most appropriate option for now. N6 JMX

after changing inlet manafolds .the red light and restricted mod comes on 2010 xfs ..

I have a 1958 XK150. What experience do members have of converting to e-ignition please.

Hi All, Need some help please ! The rear window from my XKR convertible became detached from the canvas and I didnt realise. After a number of months I could start the car, but the handbrake was stuck on...so I had it lifted onto a flat bed and taken to a Jaguar dealership where they said a number of modules had been flooded in the back and I needed a new canvas. So now the car is back and running again, with a new canvas, but the dealership said they could not source a new module for controlling bringing the roof up and down, but assured me that it works as they swapped one in for another car for testing but would not install a second hand one as they said they couldnt warranty it. So now I need a specialist jaguar servicing place somewhere near south west London that can change this module and finally bring my XKR back to its full capabilities....any suggestions please ? Thank you all in advance for any help you can provide. Mark

Thanks Jim. Probably my fault I usually charge the battery every week during the winter months but missed a few. Like you said i put it on charge immediately and we ar back to normal. Thanks again.

Hi I am new to the club. I want to put a red leather interior into my car can anyone help source one. Thanks Adrian

I've found a lot of YT posters do a "Part 1" and "Part 2" to increase their views. Might be worth tapping on the posters ID pic and then "Videos" to see if there's another in their collection explaining the refill procedure. It's different for many models in the Jaguar range so i don't want to mention the method i know in case i send you on a wild goose chase.

That’s very true. Luckily I get access to a Motor club at work, which has 4 post ramps and everything a mechanic could wish for Christmas. I’ve found a video of how to remove the fluid, but struggling to find one about how to put the new fluid in.

You'll know! 😉 Joking aside, if you drip some of the removed fluid onto a piece of plain white kitchen roll or toilet paper, you'll see the true colour and how much dirt is in there. Once it remains as clean as the new fluid (very slight discolouration may happen) then you know it's clean fluid and the 3-4 part-changes have done their job. Then do a part-change every 12 months/12000 miles to keep it fresh. Some people refer to this as a "sump-dump change" so you can search YouTube for it for an XKR and get an idea of what exactly is involved. Then you can decide if you're capable of doing it. I'd say it's easy enough but as we all know, what's easy for one person isn't for another. I'm absolutely useless with software and artistic painting but those who can do say it's easy enough..........

I will check thank you. So to clarify, you recommend part fluid change every couple hundred miles, over a full change? Silly question, but how will I know when all the fluid has been changed? Is this something that’s easily done myself?

On that we definitely agree! All auto boxes should have periodic fluid changes, i'm an advocate of dong multiple part-changes when i first get a car (ATF history isn't usually documented or sometimes fudged by the "garage" doing it) so that the gearbox isn't subject to the shock of new thick fluid all in one go. Doing 3-4 part-changes a few hundred miles apart gives a full change as good (sometimes better) than a flushing change but with vastly reduced risks of blowing dry seals that will self-revive with the additives in the new fluid. Also important (especially on S Types, not so sure on others) to beware of different fluid requirements, up to 2002, it needed something along the lines of Dexron III/NAPA MVA/Carlube ATF-U and later cars need something light Dexron VI and i can't remember equivalents for that. Double check which box you have in your new XKR Lucas and pick the right fluid for the box, not what some "guide" says is needed for the car.

Thank you. The car is just over 100k so I will clarify if that’s been done. If not I’ll get it done

Thanks for the welcome Dave. I joined specifically to advise about this and although an xk8 fan, I'm not so keen on that they're prone to corrosion. Good luck with the purchase Lucas. Xkr g/box is stronger than that of the xk8 on the 4 litre cars. I think all of the boxes could benefit having their fluid renewed at about the 80k mile mark.

Thank you for the above! It was kind of good luck that the selling withdrew as they found something In the will regarding the car. I am actually on the way to purchase a 2002 XKR now!

All good points Guy and i'd agree but with the proviso that because it's an estate/bereavement sale, the vendors may not know if/where any records exist. Had a similar scenario with my S Type, came with ~11 months MoT when i bought it and no apparent rust on the back end. A year later it failed on rear end of sills (both sides) which necessitated some creative art with sheet metal and several hours work with the electric glue. My view is that either it rusted spectacularly in that year or the previous custodian paid Mr Magoo to write the MoT certificate out. Possibly he overlooked some "surface rust" that was in fact worse than it appeared. This is what i advised the OP to confirm - the rust has been sorted. *** EDIT *** Nearly forgot, welcome aboard!

Hi I'd walk away. Most of theses have rust but as there are so many for sale now and prices are so low you need to find a rust free example. This is the most important consideration. Youtube has a vid of where the rust gets in and is time-consuming (or expensive) to get at in order to repair. A proper engineer should have kept a record of what he'd done (eg at that mileage the g/box fluid should have been changed and documented) even if he'd clearly not done any welding. Rust can be difficult to see - especially for a novice - and any rust is highly likely to be the tip of an expensive iceberg in addition to everything else that will need doing, Well done for finding the rust but that's a bright red flag would be my advice.

Hi Jackie Sounds like you have a similar problem to one I had during lockdown. I let the battery completely discharge through lack of use. When AA got it started all OK except both rear doors remained locked and would not open. Mine was sorted under warranty but I understand a garage with the Autologic software can sort it quickly. I think the problem is that low voltage corrupts the software in one of the many computer modules so it needs re-coding. I have heard that these guys could help: https://www.eandeservices.co.uk/ They are in Luton but might be worth a call... Good luck John