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Hi easier just to buy a used rear view mirror and just replace it door mirrors are the same boot leak is usually across the top of the rear lights, there a rubber trim thats pushes in that never seals, most people remove it clean it and refit them with some silicone sealant, which usually cures it cheers Joe

Hi There companies that repair them really cheap on ebay send it to them and they fix them, they send them back and should work straight away this way you dont need them coding to the car with software, like you would if you bought new ones if they dont work after a battery change theres a fault with the remote cheers Joe

Hi Are you sure there switch on on some s-type you can turn the front sensors off on the overhead console otherwise get it plugged in to Jaguar ids/sdd and it will tell you whats up with them cheers Joe

Hi There is a separate module for the for the remotes, sure its in the armrest area the remotes are quite cheap new on ebay, would get a new pair if your getting them programmed worth mentioning you need a least 2 keys or 2 remotes for it to work, if one remote fails, neither remote will work cheers Joe also have a look here for manuals and wiring diagrams http://www.jagrepair.com/

I need a replacement colour coded if possible passenger door handle cover (that covers Key slot please any suggestions

Jaguar 2.7 diesel injector leak off pipes are leaking. What do I need to remove to replace. It's the rear injector on the near side. I have the correct assembly. Can you please advise. It's a lovely car and drives very well with no engine performance issues.

This is from an old post on Jag-lovers.com: I got the !Removed! thing out of the player leaving both the player, the CD’s and the cartridge intact and undamaged. I did a lot of reading in the archives and found a bunch of ‘‘methods’’ to extract a stuck cartridge. All were based on the fact that all the CD trays were retracted into the cartridge. Mine would not retract the last played CD/tray back into the cartridge so all of those methods failed. Here is what I came up with. On the bottom of the cartridge is a hooked slot. That slot matches up with a plastic hooked lever in the player. I inserted a thin mylar strip in between the cartridge and that hook so the cartridge was only now restrained by the tray that was extended out to the side. With the player plugged into the car so it was playing a disc (number 6) I changed it to playing another disc (number 1). The shuffle mechanism retracted the playing disc/tray and before it could push out the new disc/tray the cartridge ejected and my screen said ‘‘no magazine’’. Sure enough when I walked to the back there it was sticking out of the player. Still don’t know why it would not normally eject but at least I now know how to get the old one out. I suspect heat may have been a factor as it has been insufferably hot here for nearly three weeks now and they expect another 1-2 weeks more!!! Going to look it over and lube up some sliding moving parts and see what happens.– Good luck John

Does anyone know how to remove my 5 cd cartridge out of cd in boot as mine won't eject and won't play, reads cd error. Any help would be appreciated.

DAB radio signal is intermittent, lots of no reception messages. Any ideas anyone ?

Apparently yes. They are an independent garage with a Jaguar Trained Technician. It is going in again for a more in depth fault finding.

They said that...did they scan it for errors? Could be glow plug module at fault, which apparently can stop regens happening

Hi All, is anyone interested in a 1985 XJ 4.2 Saloon, currently been in storage for approx 15 years. Not sure if it a a runner or not but car is all there etc. I can supply photo’s if anyone shows interest and can arrange viewing if required. Please contact me directly and we can discuss. Open to reasonable offers

Hi Kevin, better to list the For Sale car in the Classifieds section at the bottom of the Forum pages. Include at least a couple of photos and also list it with a price so people know what you are looking for. N6 JMX

It's fair to say that Jaguar Cars are not supporting the heritage cars any longer, but Jaguar Classic are picking up the slack, so we do anticipate an increased spares availability going forward. In addition, there are a significant number of good after market suppliers working on spares availability, including the likes of SNG Barrett, Swallows, DCR, etc. Plus there are specialist Breakers for Jaguar cars around too. Also bear in mind that not everything on the cars were manufactured by Jaguar, lots of little companies provided parts to be built into the vehicles. Module repairs are also becoming a thing, with several known repair factors around the country, mainly in the Midlands and south of the country. If you overthink the future viability of any classic car, you will not be buying anything. If you are concerned at all, then you may wish to rethink your classic car ambitions. N6 JMX

I have the same warning on my car...had a JLR specialist look at it and the problem is the airbag under the bonnet..it's being repaired next week.

Hi John, unfortunately I live in Poland. ☺️but thanks.

Hi Frank Most important is to ensure new battery is an AGM. Personally I would look at Kwikfit who did mine twice with no problem and I got a 5 year guarantee. If doing it yourself people do suggest using a battery tender to maintain a 12v supply whilst you change the battery over. Regards John

Thanks for all that really useful info. Much appreciated. There was another issue that worried me, and that's a reported shortage of spares with Jaguar no longer manufacturing them. I've read modules are no longer available but some companies can now repair them. I also read subframes can go on the 150 and these aren't available. Maybe I'm over worrying but it's be an issue if something like a roof module failed and I couldn't get a replacement.

Hi we are looking to move my wife's 2.5 X Type on. One family owner, was her fathers for the first 9 years and she has had it for the last 11 plus years. It's got around 65,000 on the clock, original bill of sale and in very reasonable condition, strong engine. It's gold in colour (sounds better than beige) with cream half leather interior. 4WD sport with upgraded wheels. Would like it to go to an enthusiast Happy to send photos if anyone is interested. Currently on a private plate but that will be removed. Message for further information 07966 185049

I am contemplating replacing the starter battery 12v 100Ah 830A (EN), I have the dual battery system. Is it a job I can undertake myself, if so what are the pitfalls and what action do I need to take to avoid them. Thanking you in anticipation.

Hi Tim, both the X-100 and the X-150 models have their supporters and both have their own particular foibles. Yes corrosion on the X-100 models can be an issue, but if it's been looked after by an Enthusiast owner who knows the areas of concern, they should all be addressed and solid. X-100 principle areas of corrosion are the rear arches and the floor pans under the passenger and driver footwell. The X-150 models have aluminium architecture, which means that the body should largely be corrosion free, but you still need to look carefully. The car body will not rust, but corrosion can still be present, evidenced by some blistering of the paint as the white aluminium oxide works under the paintwork. Typical areas to inspect are front end stone chips, trailing edges of the lower doors, boot lid around the chrome plinth, which can be a water trap, especially if it is a little loose and also vibrating through the paint coating. Also check above the windscreen rail, which can also catch stone chips. Of course the X-150 has steel underpinnings and if the car has been used all year round, or lived most of its life next to the sea (air) then the front and rear subframes can be corroded - badly in some cases. Check rigorously under the car, especially around the rear subframe mounts where it meets the aluminium body - preferably on a ramp. More difficult to inspect the front subframe as it is generally hidden by the undertray. If the rear is bad, then you can be assured the front will also be poor. The 4.2 litre engines are good, but in my opinion the 5.0 litre is better. The difference between the XK and the XKR are not as marked as you might consider - it really depends on how you drive the car. Yes the XKR with its "active" exhaust can sound awesome on acceleration, but the exhaust noise valves only open above 3,000 RPM, and you will rarely be pushing the car to that extent in day to day use. In conclusion, check out cars that have previously been owned by an enthusiast - there may be a club sticker on the window or in the glovebox, or a show rosette. Check out the MoT history via DVLA, and purchase the best you can afford - there are quite a few good ones out there, but also any number that may have been subjected to a "hard life". N6 JMX

Hi Armando, you don't say whether your battery is good, or what age the battery might be! Anything over 5 years and you should be considering fitting a replacement battery as the car's electronics are very sensitive to the battery voltages. In fact, the ability, or not, of the battery to start the car is no longer the best indicator that the battery is in good condition. There are any number of potential parasitic drain points on a Jaguar, interior lights, including the lights in the sun visor mirrors not turning off. Can we assume you have checked the car in the darkness to ensure there are no courtesy lights illuminated? Include the boot / trunk in your checks. After that, it will be a case of connecting your multi meter to read current drain and systematically pulling fuses until you find the drain. N6 JMX

Hi, having just bought my 3rd xf, this time a 15 plate 2.2 portfolio, and dissapointed to belatedly find no reverse camera or front parking sensors. Should have checked but..... Any advice on retro fitting jag parts to this car. Thanks

I meant slow battery drain while the vehicle is off, like overnight. Once it starts, the charging system works great, 14.2VDC at the battery, when the motor is running. I have a Fluke multimeter and tried today to determine which circuit is causing the drain with the key off the ignition. Another issue: the FOB is not paired, I thought someone here may be able to point me in the right direction. Thank you for your reply, Jaguars is a totally new world to me, but I always like a good challenge. By the way, no engine codes from the OBDII port!

Hi All, I recently had to reset my ICT Pro system and ironically thereafter, I lost my ability to connect via my Data SIM. This I have fixed by replacing the SIM Card module under the arm rest in the centre console. However, I have now lost my Live Traffic information in my Sat Nav and I am at a loss as to how to get it back to the extent that I am questioning if I should have had it in the first place?? My XE is the Face List model. Sept 2019, classed as 20MY so the Maps are supplied vis HERE rather than the up to 2018 system where the maps were supplied by naviextras, so there is no SD card. In some places I read that you only get live traffic when you purchase the 1 year or 3 year Subscription where you get an updated map every month, but in other sections I feel it infers you can get live traffic without the MAP Update License\Subscription but you obviously have to have your own Data SIM inserted into your car. I have a valid In control Subscription and a Navigation account, although I do note that me Navigation account has a different password to the password I use for my In Control and LIVE services in my car. If I shouldn't have it without the map subscription.... then how come I had it before I did a system reset. Thanks in advance. Any ideas??