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Thanks for confirming my memory John! Searching the part number on ebay UK, i found these : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157386222514 Probably less than the cost of one metric tyre! Bit of a hike to Brum to pick them up but often people have networks of friends on various fora that can offer a pick up and delivery by passing to various people along the way or there's even Shipley.com. It works out that 225/65/15 tyres are very close to the original size (overall diameter 676mm original, 674mm is diameter of 225/65/15) and i daresay a set of 225/65/15 tyres plus the cost of the UK 15" wheels from ebay would be close to about 2 of the metric tyres without the need in a few years to repeat the hunting exercise.

Hi Paul Personally I would be moving to 15" or 16" as those tyres will simply become less and less safe the older they get, until at some point they will fail........ :( Found this which appears to be the 15" version of your metric wheels. Might be worth a try and see if they will ship to UK.... https://susuperdeals.shop/product/75661006133/?cid=803cf2e9053a846b4d3f76833657f3ff Good luck John

Welcome to the Forum, have a safe trip "North of the Border". N6 JMX

If memory serves, Jaguar made some Imperial (normal) size wheels for the XJ40 in the same style. If you keep an eye on ebay for a set of 16" Jag wheels, you should eventually come up with a set. Then you can have them refurbed and new 16" tyres fitted. Check the manufacture date on your Avon tyres, if they're over 5 years old i wouldn't use them at all. I had a brown trouser moment in my S Type not long after getting it when the steering failed to respond due to the (near new in terms of tread) Pirelli P6000 just did not grip - they were ~10 years old at the time. I now run a set of new Maxxis Premitra HP5 tyres, similar to the P6000 in tread pattern, feel and probably better in grip having driven on new P6000s some years back. Would definitely recommend them!

Enjoy your trip Keith! Welcome aboard too!

Hi Jonathan, quite a bit of difference between the XK and XKR, so better if you can try them out and see if you have a preference. Other major decision has to be Coupe or Convertible, as that too will impact on your selection process. Engine size needs to be considered - the earlier cars were 4.2 litre V8, whilst from late 2009 the engine size was 5.0 litre V8. Many aspects of the ride in the X-150 are down to personal preference. The cars look great on 20-inch wheels, but lots of folk complain about the ride being too harsh and seek out lesser diameter wheels. Note changing backwards from 20 to 18 is NOT possible on the XKR due to the size of the brakes / callipers. The JEC has a Classifieds Section, therefore mainly Enthusiasts' Cars on sale, and in the December issue, there are currently 10 off X-150 cars for sale with an almost equal split between Coupe and Convertible, but in my opinion the Convertible is the better looking model. Nowadays the price range is quite dramatic, with some being advertised at under £10k and I have seen some on AutoTrader at over £40k. Being based in Scotland, my own XKR Convertible is taken off the road (SORN) between October and March each winter so as to avoid the salted roads. Whilst the body architecture is all aluminium, there are steel subframes underneath and these can suffer very badly from corrosion, so be sure to look underneath any car you view - take a good strong flashlight - although most of the front subframe will be hidden under a plastic tray, but the rear subframe will be readily accessible to see. Corrosion of the aluminium body is always possible too, especially where stone chips have been present, or loose trim traps water and can vibrate through the coating. If you want any additional insight / help, come back trough the Forum or drop me a PM. N6 JMX

Greetings to all. For the last 17 years I have owned and used a Mercedes Vito van, after retiring this year, the van with 220,00 reliable miles on the clock was part exchanged for a 2019 XF Sportsbrake. The car is great, I am still finding my way with it as it is a far cry from a Vito Van! First long trip tomorrow. Southport to Scotland and back a 500 mile round trip which I am looking forward to.

Well I might be premature in updating this thread but... I never did find the parking sensor control module. Looked in boot, behind LH and RH boot trims, under seats, under bonnet, under dashboard etc. All difficult to access with horrible plastic clips etc. Jaguar wiring diagrams didn't help as I found many that covered my year of car and all showed the module in different places - why the need to move it around so much? It's as if the installer changed stuff every day on the production line. However I did notice a small water stain near the junction box (fuse box) rear on the RH side of the boot. I noticed the filler cap water vent pipe was blocked so unblocked it and not had the issue since. Maybe water was somehow getting into the boot and running through the fuse box causing the issue when it rained. Time will tell.

Looking to purchase my first XK, must have good history and be in fantastic condition. looking for a car to keep and enjoy and pass down to my son

EVening Jimbov8 / N6JMS / Big John Thanks to you all for your helpful replies. The end result i wanted was to keep my perfect condition Teardrop wheels at all cost. After several days trawling the web it all came down to a big Zero. However I eventually searched the correct size AVON Turbo Speed 200/65/390 used but having 5-6mm left on them. So All well that ends well. Thanks again to all

Hi Steven, remove fuses F4 10A, F21 15A and F31 30A, all in the auxiliary junction which is located between the rear seats. Make sure the radio is switched off on the panel first.

There are a few on here that know the XK electrical system pretty well, sure one of them will be along soon to help out. Welcome to the club too!

Hello, all, i'm looking for the radio fuse on my 2007 jaguar xk. I just can't seem to get a straight answer from the internet. I just want to kill the power to it so I can reset it without having to disconnect my battery. I have been told it's in the passenger foot bay compartment but I can't find one listed radio. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

HI I have this issue occuring now - did you ever get an answer?

Does a replacement unit have to be reprogrammed

Hi thanks for letting me know just had it done at 740 pounds

Hi Paul, 2011 3.0ltr D. My local garage fitted a new cambelt, tensioners, water pump and serpentine belt last September at almost 100,000 mies for £950 including the ridiculous amount of VAT. My local garage are 100% honest and trustworthy and have looked after me and my Jaguars since moving here 5 years ago. Supertrev. .

Hi, this sounds just what I am looking for as your post was a few years ago, is this still available?.

Hi just some screen shots of error codes that are on now

Locate and check the headlight earth connection is sound. One light failing is more likely to be an earthing issue than a BCM issue. N6 JMX

Quick google brought up this: Faulty Headlight Assembly Component A bad bulb, ballast, or internal wiring/control module can cause intermittent operation. Start by replacing the bulb and checking the ballast. Wiring Harness Issue Corrosion or damage in the wiring connecting the headlight to the BCM can cause data/power loss. Inspect the full length of the harness for damage. BCM Entering Protection Mode If the BCM detects repeated short circuits, it disables the output to protect itself (U1000-00 code). The short must be repaired, and the BCM may need a specialist software fix or replacement. Failing BCM Unit A failing BCM can cause various erratic electrical issues, including lighting problems. This is often due to water damage or voltage spikes.

Hi, I have a Jaguar XF 2.0 portfolio 2015, got to work last night and was told my headlight wasn't worked, checked fuses and then ordered new bulbs and fitted tonight, that didn't work, so I hooked up my Carsoft machine and it's coming up Left Headlight imtermittent, BCM error Can anyone help ? Thanks

Put all the windows down and then spray silicone lube spray into the top of the window channels for a few seconds, preferably using one of those long spouts. Only spray onto the vertical/near vertical parts of the window channels. Once all sprayed, start the car (to avoid flattening the battery) and exrecise all windows up and down several times. Not sure if you have Toolstation in Eire but this is the sort of stuff : https://www.toolstation.com/action-can-sp-90-silicone-lubricant/p34151 It's also good for spraying on door seals, leave to soak and then gently wipe off the excess to help prevent the door seal freezing to the doors in cold weather.

Hi all, I have a xjl 2014 the drivers side and passenger side windows skuek when going up and down . Tried wd40 dry . Iane

just in case anyone follows up here, sadly D Tronix in liquidation August 2024