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About AlexWard

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  1. Just had a look at the EPC Paul... Is it anything to do with the audio power output at all? I have 2 listings on the 6 disc, one premium, one not with 130w & 330/440w output respectively ??
  2. Also check that your cam covers have not split... You will need to carefully remove the foam insulation around the top, once the engine cover is removed. They are prone to cracking on to side edge that faces the injectors. FYI, these parts, both left and right are on their 8th part revision, even though JLR wont admit there is a design issue with them..
  3. I have Landsail fitted to mine, more efficient that Pirelli, lower noise, great in all conditions - I stuck a full set of 'no expense spared' Pirellis on another "not very slow car" a while back and it lunched them after 6000 miles - and at our age, we dont really drive like teenagers anymore.. 😄 I was all set to have the wheels straightened and refurbished, the discs were being sent back under warranty etc etc... Didnt even occur to me at the time that a £3.75 part was ultimately to blame... But... we live and learn, i think i am more impressed that the Brembo discs are still laser straight after all that grief i have given them....
  4. So... 3 weeks ago i was getting that much wheel wobble i was exiting the car like a Thunderbird puppet so took the car to our local tyre guys, who then re balanced the wheels.. A little buckle in 2 of them, but nothing major... Off i went... Last week.. It re appeared... " i cant have thrown a wheel weight (or all of them) .. Surely?" Nope.. Took it back in on Saturday to see if the disks were warped...I wont even comment on how HOT the brake discs were, but lets just say i could have fried a steak on them... Got back home.. .Stripped the wheels down..concluded the following... Brake piston dust seal has come adrift on both sides Corrosion and dirt allow the piston to expel, not retract Resulting in binding brakes Resulting in judder between 35mph & 55mph Stripped the calipers down Brake heat has melted the caliper paint, which i turn fused the outer pad to the caliper Piston seal just about to give up due to excessive heat Replaced piston, seal and cleaned up New pads Bled the system Now 100% efficient - with no wobble at all Braking system overhauled at a MD 13 months ago - "told you so" my mother would have said I was pleasantly surprised as i am using Brembo discs in favour of the OEM Jag ones as their build quality is actually better.. Given the fact that they got so hot and the run out on the discs is minute - Even the garage guy was speechless... Moral of the story... check all the little things
  5. Happy Days Paul... Glad you got it sorted... I have spare 6 disc changers if you are stuck! I agree on the VC though, my last car's VC controlled pretty much everything so it was a shock to find such a basic system in the XF I am just in the last hurdle of fitting Adaptive Cruise, so i will post the results up when i get finished
  6. HI Paul... Its an Audio amplifier assy or something like that... Used for dealing with signals and the like from the DVD, AMP and TV (If fitted)
  7. Disco, Disco lights Kevin? I have the same issue, i did read somewhere it was down to a circuit board error and or organic matter in the roof lining like some kamikasi fly... I would imagine, like me, the vehicle is now out of warrantly, however i am working on a fix to look for dry joints, the offending organic matter or some other issue... Alex
  8. It is a whole new intercooler rad that you need, with the chamber attached to the side as per your picture. Be advised though... even a genuine Jag item will not be expected to last more than 2 years as the design is shocking! I had the same issue with my 10 plate, that had that part replaced by the previous owner 2 years before i bought it. I replaced mine with an S Type pack, same design, just a better build quality. Would also advise taking a look at all your boost pipes and also the top of the cam covers where they are prone to splitting also. Good luck
  9. Release the centre seat belt clip with a small precision screwdriver Release the rear seats to fold down Unclip the trim, buttons x 3 holding the parcel shelf Carefully remove the plastic trim cover from the seat latch Lift up the parcel shelf, it is located with clips NOTE.. If a rear parcel blind is installed, remove the 3 nuts securing it from inside the boot before trim removal Pull the shelf towards the front of the car. Unclip any electrical connectors for speakers and third brake light Carry out repair / replacement Install in reverse order Hope this helps
  10. Either i am not looking correctly or there is not a definitive post on here that explains how to get into the Engineering Test Mode of the Pre Facelift XF's. Probably would also work on the Facelifts but i cannot comment on that at present. Press and Hold the 'Trip' button on the light switch stalk Press and hold the 'Start' button (foot OFF Brake) whilst still holding in Trip Button Count 5 Seconds, release 'Trip' button whilst still holding start Foot on Brake, Engine will start, cluster will display 'Engineering Test Mode' Cycle through screens using the Trip button for Gauge tests, Battery, Fuel etc etc information Stop engine to clear test mode. Link attatched to You Tube video - Not my work, only shows the relevant screens but not the sequence to engage it so i added it up above.
  11. This company is spot on for prices and quality parts. Dont be led by the nose on replacing with Genuine Jag parts, these Brembo parts are fully coated and i have had no issues with quality so far. WIth regards to the rear discs and pads, from my tinkering on the Web prior to buying my XF, it was suggested that the friction material on the rear pads is softer than normal to accomodate for the EPB. There have been instances in the States whereby the EPB would be applied after a run, hot discs, hard material, discs cool down, run you over... Hence the change to the softer compound. Sure enough, on my inspection yesterday, the rear pads are down to 50% of their originally fitted thickness after 10 months, but at £24 a set, i am really not complaining.. They are easy enough to fit without any special tools or SDD.
  12. 2009 XF Heated Steering wheel - In Black - Listed on Ebay at present Please click link for details..
  13. I have that part and the 2 storage compartment trim pieces in my hand RIGHT NOW.. lol.. I may be persuaded to part with them (as i am in the process of amassing parts for an interior change) Alex
  14. DIsabled in the CCF i think Rob... I have various Audio modules at home from a B&W equipped car, as well as 2 spare Sub Woofers. I am in Malvern too, so not far from you if you fancy a trip over! Alex
  15. From what i have discovered during my RP issue over the last 3 weeks, start looking at the following... Remove undertray, check that the valve operating the airflow from the intercooler, via its hoses is operating correctly. There is a name for this widget, but it escapes me at the moment. Remove and check the MAP sensor on the throttle body housing, its a small rectangular sensor at the rear of the unit, held in by one torx screw. NB... DO NOT use electrical cleaner to clean out the contacts, nor carb cleaner as it destroyed mine. Look for any signs of oil contamination over the injectors on the OS cylinder head cover (remove main engine cover and carefully peel back the injector sound proofing to view) Check for oil leaks around the bottom hose going to the intercooler NSF, check for the same on the OSF inter cooler. Check for any oil leaks around the base of the throttle body housing, near to the oil filter and coolant housing, this would indicate a split at the rear. Hopefully, this will put you on the path to enlightenment, i started off with a similar MAF sensor issue, which turned out to be a cracked cam cover, thankfully replaced before i even started replacing sensors like a mad man.... I am sure there will be more additions from members who have suffered similar issues...