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About AlexWard

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  1. Disco, Disco lights Kevin? I have the same issue, i did read somewhere it was down to a circuit board error and or organic matter in the roof lining like some kamikasi fly... I would imagine, like me, the vehicle is now out of warrantly, however i am working on a fix to look for dry joints, the offending organic matter or some other issue... Alex
  2. It is a whole new intercooler rad that you need, with the chamber attached to the side as per your picture. Be advised though... even a genuine Jag item will not be expected to last more than 2 years as the design is shocking! I had the same issue with my 10 plate, that had that part replaced by the previous owner 2 years before i bought it. I replaced mine with an S Type pack, same design, just a better build quality. Would also advise taking a look at all your boost pipes and also the top of the cam covers where they are prone to splitting also. Good luck
  3. Release the centre seat belt clip with a small precision screwdriver Release the rear seats to fold down Unclip the trim, buttons x 3 holding the parcel shelf Carefully remove the plastic trim cover from the seat latch Lift up the parcel shelf, it is located with clips NOTE.. If a rear parcel blind is installed, remove the 3 nuts securing it from inside the boot before trim removal Pull the shelf towards the front of the car. Unclip any electrical connectors for speakers and third brake light Carry out repair / replacement Install in reverse order Hope this helps
  4. Either i am not looking correctly or there is not a definitive post on here that explains how to get into the Engineering Test Mode of the Pre Facelift XF's. Probably would also work on the Facelifts but i cannot comment on that at present. Press and Hold the 'Trip' button on the light switch stalk Press and hold the 'Start' button (foot OFF Brake) whilst still holding in Trip Button Count 5 Seconds, release 'Trip' button whilst still holding start Foot on Brake, Engine will start, cluster will display 'Engineering Test Mode' Cycle through screens using the Trip button for Gauge tests, Battery, Fuel etc etc information Stop engine to clear test mode. Link attatched to You Tube video - Not my work, only shows the relevant screens but not the sequence to engage it so i added it up above.
  5. This company is spot on for prices and quality parts. Dont be led by the nose on replacing with Genuine Jag parts, these Brembo parts are fully coated and i have had no issues with quality so far. WIth regards to the rear discs and pads, from my tinkering on the Web prior to buying my XF, it was suggested that the friction material on the rear pads is softer than normal to accomodate for the EPB. There have been instances in the States whereby the EPB would be applied after a run, hot discs, hard material, discs cool down, run you over... Hence the change to the softer compound. Sure enough, on my inspection yesterday, the rear pads are down to 50% of their originally fitted thickness after 10 months, but at £24 a set, i am really not complaining.. They are easy enough to fit without any special tools or SDD.
  6. 2009 XF Heated Steering wheel - In Black - Listed on Ebay at present Please click link for details..
  7. I have that part and the 2 storage compartment trim pieces in my hand RIGHT NOW.. lol.. I may be persuaded to part with them (as i am in the process of amassing parts for an interior change) Alex
  8. DIsabled in the CCF i think Rob... I have various Audio modules at home from a B&W equipped car, as well as 2 spare Sub Woofers. I am in Malvern too, so not far from you if you fancy a trip over! Alex
  9. From what i have discovered during my RP issue over the last 3 weeks, start looking at the following... Remove undertray, check that the valve operating the airflow from the intercooler, via its hoses is operating correctly. There is a name for this widget, but it escapes me at the moment. Remove and check the MAP sensor on the throttle body housing, its a small rectangular sensor at the rear of the unit, held in by one torx screw. NB... DO NOT use electrical cleaner to clean out the contacts, nor carb cleaner as it destroyed mine. Look for any signs of oil contamination over the injectors on the OS cylinder head cover (remove main engine cover and carefully peel back the injector sound proofing to view) Check for oil leaks around the bottom hose going to the intercooler NSF, check for the same on the OSF inter cooler. Check for any oil leaks around the base of the throttle body housing, near to the oil filter and coolant housing, this would indicate a split at the rear. Hopefully, this will put you on the path to enlightenment, i started off with a similar MAF sensor issue, which turned out to be a cracked cam cover, thankfully replaced before i even started replacing sensors like a mad man.... I am sure there will be more additions from members who have suffered similar issues...
  10. Rear sensor cable is on the OSR, Front sensor cable is on the NSF...
  11. Found the issue... Wiring break in the plug, not visible at first...
  12. Can someone please confirm if the 'Low Washer Fluid' warning is an information centre message or a pre determined light on the cluster please. I have the sensor wiring in place, connected now to a new level sensor when i fitted the headlamp washers, but nothing appears on the dash nor the message centre when its low. I would not suspect a wiring fault at present as it looks (suprisingly) factory fresh under the front drivers wing. All help appreciated. Alex
  13. Update now... Brand new re designed cam cover is in place, went in without any real inherant issues as i have removed most of the pipework, brackets etc to get it sit correctly on installation. New seals on the injectors, didnt replace the High Pressure lines as per workshop manual as the shop that sold me the washers hinted that it wasnt necessary. No leaks from the High pressure circuit which is good. Primed the system as per manual, a little difficult to start at present, therefore i will prime it again (manual says 4 times cycle ignition with a 15 second wait time between cycle) . Pretty confident that there may be a little more air in the system so bleeding will get that sorted. Just got to re assemble all the other bits now like the bulkhead panels etc, stick on SDD to see if there are any errors then road test it.. Fingers crossed!
  14. Its all apart except for 1 bolt... According to the Jag tech bulletins, the steering rack, Aux belt, timing belt cover and rad pack have to come off, not so... Thats about 1.5 - 2 hours labour saved at a dealer then... The bolts holding the diesel rail where a pig, but by unbolting the EGR motor on the drivers side, access is a piece of cake. The bolt closest to the firewall will have its head ground down by 1.5mm to facilitate an easier re assembly... The only remaining bolt is under a cast steel bracket that holds the EGR valve onto the side of the block. By drilling 3 8mm holes and nibbling out the remainder (still leaving the bracket intact with no obvious structural b*astardisation, i should be able to get a small 10mm socket in there and undo it. If not, it will force a removal of the EGR which by the looks of it, also isnt easy... So... what i have deduced so far is this... Car had a new intercooler 3 years ago, last owner started having issues with the MAP sensor and its resulting codes, split cam cover, split throttle housing and a couple of other issues.. Which then begs the question, as i have tried to explain to the wife, just HOW far do you go when buying a used car. Subsequently, it has been into the now defunkt Stratstone dealer in Cheltenham for 2 services and 2 x 128 point checks, both of which have failed to flag up an issue. I havent been taking pics as i go along, however i will start snapping away tomorrow after i have scoured the country for a new cover on same day delivery....
  15. Soooo... Quick update... Took her out... RP came back... Started a more indepth investigation only to find the dreaded split induction cover on the drivers side... Spanners out.. Kettle on... Wallet empty.. 😞